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There have been 150 items by Aimless (Search limited from 23-March 93)
Not if your parents are from China.
My mom and dad don't care if I have the money, it if I do well in school, I can have the CONCEPT of it. It's nor a money issue, my mom doesn't like the concept.
Ah, yes, the concept of a hobby that involves "firearm replicas" or anything remotely resembling firearms troubles most parents, especially those of east Asian descent. From all the years I've lived with and in a Chinese society, most people seem to have some irrational fear of guns, which I think stems from firearms being associated with past invaders and what seems to be the association of guns and foreigners which combined with the xenophobia inherent to the customs and traditions. Oh, and the belief that guns are somehow alive and have a mind of their own.
And yes, if you're wondering, I'm Chinese, so I am right in the middle of it.
Foreigners = bad
Invaders = bad
Foreign invaders = bad
Foreign invaders with guns = bad
Guns = invaders = foreigners = bad
So in the end, anything associated any of those is bad, well, at least from what I've seen in these parts.
The focus is a bit off, but you should be able to see the metal strip on the arm in the blue box.
I rebuilt it by super-gluing a strip of metal around the edges of the rounded corner and then filed it back into shape.
Edit: Magstrikes are probably the most finicky and unreliable blasters I've worked with. A somewhat related question, is it possible to use the Powerclip's piston and advancer arm in a MS?
What benifits do you get from nerfing indoor and outdoor?
-Engaging in room to room fighting
-Weather is not a problem
-Lighting effects possible
-Stock blasters aren't as handicapped
-Longer engagement ranges so you don't catch a dart to the face at arm's length
-Somewhat slower pace, more time for planning and downtime
-Allows people to use high-powered blasters safely, as long as they keep a minimum distance
-More room to move around and less stuff to break
How could someone get a virus from something external? Did they buy a flash drive from the black market?
Virus knowledge has never been one of my strong points...
If an external drive/device comes into contact with an infected machine, depending on the virus present, it may become infected and become an infection vector. Most of these viri also rely on the fatally vulnerable auto-play function of Windows.
Edit: Also, disabling the auto-play functions of your OS will stop the annoying "Select an action" window and whatever else in the autorun.ini file on the media.
so any ideas for fixes? or just remove the dart-tooth?
The breech system relies on the dart-tooth to seat the dart properly, remove it and it won't shoot darts. The ripping doesn't actually hurt the dart, the head of the dart goes down pretty far into the dart and will still stay put even with the tears.
Shortening a barrel does decrease range/power. The dart does not have as much time to accelerate before leaving the barrel and therefore leaves the barrel with less speed, in turn not travelling as far or hurting as much at comparable ranges.
Yes, if the only factor that changes is the barrel, ranges will suffer. However, if one also increases the pressure behind the dart, the dart will accelerate faster thus compensating for the shortened barrel velocity-wise. Of course there are disadvantages to doing so, like unstable darts, a louder muzzle report, and possible dart shredding.
Hmmm... I like the "detune" idea... Maybe a 1/2" pipe and couple to go on the offending blaster's business end, with a restriction set up inside? Or a drastically shorter barrel? "Oh, singled Titan? Here's your 3" barrel."
I like the short barrel idea, but all that does is limit the blasters' accuracy as one can bring the pressure up to compensate quite a bit.
Edit: Assuming the blaster in question is a pump gun.
I used superglue to tack the pieces back together then lightly sanded both the area to be reinforced and the strip of metal. Then apply superglue, lots of it, clamp it down and let cure overnight. I also extended the metal to the first rib/ridge on the part your finger rests on and added a bit of superglue to the edges of the metal afterwards. It's held up fine even at 20 pumps. And don't forget to round the edges of the metal by the finger area.
Edit: The strip of metal is actually from a steel cookie tin, a great source of sheet metal.
Edit: That first war took place indoors in a 15'x30' room which is HUGE considering the craptastic ranges of the shell based guns. Luckily, the room was barren except for 3 couches which were used as forts/walls/cover. The hard vinyl floor also made things very slippery.
Well, when I was trying to decide which one to get and asked a few people, the general answer I got was that the big blast is a little bit better. It has a bigger air tank, longer pump stroke (which means it takes less pumps to fill it) and it has the more durable steel firing pin, as opposed the the LBB's plastic one.
One more neat little fact, the valve on the Big Blast opens faster than the one on the LBB due to the way the air pressure adds to the pull weight, the pin doesn't move until you exceed the pressure on the valve, once you past the breaking point, the 10-30lbs you're pulling on the trigger with will slam the valve open. The LBB on the other hand, can be half-pulled to slowly vent the tank, however, that also means you have to yank the trigger as fast as you can or your range will suffer.
How far did you tighten the screw?
-Did you tighten it all the way down?
-How much is "all the way"? That is, does it take a few turns to tighten it as much as possible, or less than a full turn?
I don't remember the exact amount of turns, 2-3 maybe, but I tightened it as far as it will go without forcing it, it actually doesn't take much force to turn the screw.
Very cool. Perhaps one could simply cut off the end of the pump, tighten the screw, and glue it back precisely. I'm pretty sure the Mega Missile has an identical OPRV.
The Mega Missile does in fact have an identical OPRV right down to the screw, tightening it all the way brings the relief pressure up to around 26 pumps, 8 more than at the stock setting.
Edit: If you are keeping the stock trigger setup, the excessive flexing of the trigger will bend the firing pin out of shape and possibly crack the rear of the chamber.
Edit2: Now with pics!
The screw of awesome. Turn clockwise for MAX POWA!
Bent pin and crack in rear of tank, caused by the flexing of the trigger.
... I don't really think that you could do that without a dremel unless you are God him self with a hacksaw.
I made this using only a hacksaw and files, it just takes a looooong time to get them done.
You can cut breeches out of PETG and brass with just basic hand tools, you just have to be really patient. A hobby knife is enough for cutting PETG, as for brass, a fine-tooth saw, files, and really steady hands will do.
White lithium grease, probably. The best stuff there is for roll-up garage door tracks. On plastics ... I don't know.
Yeah, and then theres that really weird white gunk that I found inside DTGs and a few other guns.
That white grease is actually just thick silicone grease. As for using white lithium grease on plastics, it's the petroleum-base oils that eat away at it, but from my experience, I have yet to see plastic parts damaged by petroleum products, but avoid using petroleum-based lubes on plastics if you can. Rubber (O-rings, seals, belts) on the other hand, does not get along well with petroleum oils,as they eat away at it and dry it out, shrinking and stiffening it. Stiff, shrunken O-rings don't seal well.
I love the section about injury to the chest, hands and face. How the heck do you get it caught on your face? This is gonna be my new mission. No one will rest till they are shown how they can get it caught on their face.
Maybe someone used the plunger tube as a cheek rest or put the end of the tube against their cheek and pulled the gun back while firing, having the gun slam into face.
Now, as to the questionódoes anyone have a good idea what sort of adhesive Hasbro uses for the internals of some of their pump air guns? I'm thinking specifically about the Titan air tank and Hornet internals I have lying about at the moment. I'd love to have a better idea of what sort of glue that is before I go hacking into those parts.
From the way the bonds look, I think it's either something from the plasti-weld line or plastic specific epoxy, also, Buzz Bee and Lanard use copious amounts of epoxy.
Doesn't offer copper-size PVC pipe.
McMaster Carr online
CPVC is a location dependent item. It's not available near me either.
I beg to differ, item 5037K31 on page 195 is indeed copper-size PVC pipe, though McMaster has it labeled as "CPVC Tubing", fittings are on the same page too.
Nerf blasters are not weapons and unless the school has something stating that a bright plastic toy that launches foam darts are not allowed. Then it's perfectly fine.
On a related note, I was allowed to bring my spud launcher to school for physics.
Actually, in most school districts, anything that launches a projectile, be it foam or lead, counts as a weapon, even a stock AT2k. On a related note, the NYC Board of Education puts Nerf blasters and similar foam shooting devices in the same category as air-guns (pellet/BBs), thongs used as slingshots also fall in the same category.
The movie poster is there to cover-up dents in the plaster/cement wall. It actually is possible to damage plaster walls with hot glue tipped stefans, though it takes velocities of over 400fps to do any damage.
Also, Nitefinders, lots of them, thanks to KB Toys and their awesome sales.
As for the mismatched sheets and pillow cases, as long as I can sleep on it I don't mind what color/print it is.