FromAbove's Content
There have been 70 items by FromAbove (Search limited from 07-December 96)
#140193 Nerf Wii Blaster
Posted by
on 14 February 2008 - 01:51 PM
in
General Nerf
#98818 My First Homemade
Posted by
on 25 January 2007 - 10:06 PM
in
Homemades
Crow, I'm going to assume that your set-up is designed to create multiple shot capability. Your problems stem from the inherent flaw in diafragm valves like the sprinkler valve: They need to reseal themselves.
To solve your problem you do not have to change a single thing for it to work properly, you only need to change your firing sequence. Let me demonstrate in steps to make it simple to follow.
*edit* I checked my valve to make sure, and yours is definately on backwards, follow the arrows man.
Piney mentioned this but i'll second what he's saying. Lose the e-tape and get some solvent cement and primer. it is the only way to fuse the 2 halves in a way which makes 1 piece. Solvent cementing holds better than anything from superglue to epoxy and no substitutes should never be used when pressurizing PVC pipe. I know it may sound silly to only use one product, but in this case using an alternative may hurt you, or kill you or someone else. Shrapnel is shrapnel and when building a homemade you need to recognise that because Nerf guns are built as toys, and therefore the pressures and tolerances in modding are nowhere near as dangerous as when building homemades. Just be careful and do your research, there is never a rush more important than your life.
Step 1: Before firing, make sure you pressurize your large air tank, with the ball valve closed.
Step 2: Open the ball valve. This will either reseal the sprinkler valve and fill your junction (small tank) or only fill the small tank if the sprinkler valve is already resealed.
Step 3: Close the ball valve
Step 4: Load your dart
Step 5: Switch on the sprinkler valve with the small black handle. Turn it off immediately after firing so you dont forget to and lose all the air in your large tank.
Step 6: Load another dart
Step 7: Open the ball valve, which will reseal the piston as well you won't waste any air because it will be used firing the next dart.
From steps 1-7 you will be able to get off 2 darts and is about as simple as remembering to open and close the valves in the right order.
I hope this helps.
FA
To solve your problem you do not have to change a single thing for it to work properly, you only need to change your firing sequence. Let me demonstrate in steps to make it simple to follow.
*edit* I checked my valve to make sure, and yours is definately on backwards, follow the arrows man.
Piney mentioned this but i'll second what he's saying. Lose the e-tape and get some solvent cement and primer. it is the only way to fuse the 2 halves in a way which makes 1 piece. Solvent cementing holds better than anything from superglue to epoxy and no substitutes should never be used when pressurizing PVC pipe. I know it may sound silly to only use one product, but in this case using an alternative may hurt you, or kill you or someone else. Shrapnel is shrapnel and when building a homemade you need to recognise that because Nerf guns are built as toys, and therefore the pressures and tolerances in modding are nowhere near as dangerous as when building homemades. Just be careful and do your research, there is never a rush more important than your life.
Step 1: Before firing, make sure you pressurize your large air tank, with the ball valve closed.
Step 2: Open the ball valve. This will either reseal the sprinkler valve and fill your junction (small tank) or only fill the small tank if the sprinkler valve is already resealed.
Step 3: Close the ball valve
Step 4: Load your dart
Step 5: Switch on the sprinkler valve with the small black handle. Turn it off immediately after firing so you dont forget to and lose all the air in your large tank.
Step 6: Load another dart
Step 7: Open the ball valve, which will reseal the piston as well you won't waste any air because it will be used firing the next dart.
From steps 1-7 you will be able to get off 2 darts and is about as simple as remembering to open and close the valves in the right order.
I hope this helps.
FA
#94632 Next-gen Systems
Posted by
on 16 November 2006 - 11:49 AM
in
Off Topic
#90870 Brass Cutting Problem
Posted by
on 30 September 2006 - 08:48 AM
in
General Nerf
I have encountered this problem working with copper and Alum. tubing and find it effective to use a cone shaped grinding stone attached to my dremel to flatten out any unsightly edges. It would probably be much easier to do this with brass compared to alum, and copper.
Goodluck!
FA
Goodluck!
FA
#90451 Jac Pac Portable C02
Posted by
on 25 September 2006 - 09:15 AM
in
General Nerf
I think there has been some confusion as to my current designing process for my Reaper Mk.3.
I intend to build a rifle that will pump actuate a brass breech/magazine. I however was refering to the air system which I would like to impliment. I want to use a 3 way valve and a chamber of Sch40 which in the configuration The gas would enter through the 3 way valve into the chamber, upon energizing the valve, it would exhaust the chamber into the barrel. I may use the regulator I have from my reaper mk.2. I do not want full auto or even semi-auto. I build things to be funtional and rugged and semi or full auto will be unreliable at best.
I hope this clarifies my intent, however this thread was simply to show a new product that replaces the need to rely on paintball regulators/fitting etc.
FA.
I intend to build a rifle that will pump actuate a brass breech/magazine. I however was refering to the air system which I would like to impliment. I want to use a 3 way valve and a chamber of Sch40 which in the configuration The gas would enter through the 3 way valve into the chamber, upon energizing the valve, it would exhaust the chamber into the barrel. I may use the regulator I have from my reaper mk.2. I do not want full auto or even semi-auto. I build things to be funtional and rugged and semi or full auto will be unreliable at best.
I hope this clarifies my intent, however this thread was simply to show a new product that replaces the need to rely on paintball regulators/fitting etc.
FA.
#90342 Jac Pac Portable C02
Posted by
on 24 September 2006 - 03:18 PM
in
General Nerf
I would hook it up to my reaper, however I'm keeping with the evolution of my obsessive attitude towards an ultimate nerfgun. Following the lines of Ompa and Boltsniper I'm going to be building a shell-less rifle which will utilize a direct-acting solenoid valve to control a regulated amount of C02 into a SCH40 Chamber.
I'll make a topic about the gun when I actually get the time to sit down and design it and start building. I just thought I'd bring this innovation to everyones attention because most everyone wants to build a C02 powered gun at one time or another.
FA
I'll make a topic about the gun when I actually get the time to sit down and design it and start building. I just thought I'd bring this innovation to everyones attention because most everyone wants to build a C02 powered gun at one time or another.
FA
#90333 Jac Pac Portable C02
Posted by
on 24 September 2006 - 01:59 PM
in
General Nerf
First and foremost this may only be in Canada as I have no idea if there are TSC stores in the US.
Anyways, in the TSC flyer I noticed them carrying a product which replaces an air compressor for air tools by using a regulator attached to refillable C02 cylinders.
[There is a small picture on page 18 of the online flyer]
Additional info..
And More..
This means that for $100 Canadian you can have an air system which uses fittings found at any hardware store. I intend to pick one up for an upcoming build. I'll post pics and a review when I justify the purchase (saving for a new car and a new racing bike).
If anyone has either noticed this to purchased one let me know!
FA.
Anyways, in the TSC flyer I noticed them carrying a product which replaces an air compressor for air tools by using a regulator attached to refillable C02 cylinders.
[There is a small picture on page 18 of the online flyer]
Additional info..
And More..
This means that for $100 Canadian you can have an air system which uses fittings found at any hardware store. I intend to pick one up for an upcoming build. I'll post pics and a review when I justify the purchase (saving for a new car and a new racing bike).
If anyone has either noticed this to purchased one let me know!
FA.
#89506 Starbucks
Posted by
on 11 September 2006 - 06:28 AM
in
Off Topic
Carbon may be beating me to it, but c'mon dude! You know the COC says no pornographic images, so there is just no point to be posting images of some starbuck titties.
FA.
FA.
#89035 Steve Irwin Died!
Posted by
on 04 September 2006 - 06:51 PM
in
Off Topic
Well folks all raise you glasses!
Now for anyone who knows me well, willl know of my bartending skills. So heres to Steve!
2 shots of Blue Curaco
1 shot of Passion fruit liquor
1 shot of Kiwi liquor
1 shot of skyy vodka
I dub thee Steves Heart Penetration with a vodka stinger
Enjoy...smoke 'em if you got 'em
FA
Now for anyone who knows me well, willl know of my bartending skills. So heres to Steve!
2 shots of Blue Curaco
1 shot of Passion fruit liquor
1 shot of Kiwi liquor
1 shot of skyy vodka
I dub thee Steves Heart Penetration with a vodka stinger
Enjoy...smoke 'em if you got 'em
FA
#88249 Dremel Nearly Killed Me
Posted by
on 24 August 2006 - 07:10 PM
in
Off Topic
Cutting wheels break all the time its a fact of life. Just never turn on your dremel without eye protecting especially; ear protecting is a good idea too.
You need to remember that you're using a tool, not to confuse it with the toy you happen to be modding. Glad to hear you didnt lose an eye tho. Last year I got a small shard of hot plexi in my eyeball that needed to be removed at the hospital. Eye protecting is no joke!
FA.
You need to remember that you're using a tool, not to confuse it with the toy you happen to be modding. Glad to hear you didnt lose an eye tho. Last year I got a small shard of hot plexi in my eyeball that needed to be removed at the hospital. Eye protecting is no joke!
FA.
#88030 Reaper Mk.2 Build Progress
Posted by
on 21 August 2006 - 10:15 PM
in
Homemades
Snazzy,
I took a 1/4x2" Machine screw and put some 5/8 foam around it as a sabot fitting in my 3/4 alum tubing barrel (cpvc sleeved for 1/2 stefans) and shot it out at 160 psi.
Also Boondock Saints is surely quite the kickass film, I kept hearing whispers of a sequel, but that was 2 years ago and noting yet. Too bad.
FA.
I took a 1/4x2" Machine screw and put some 5/8 foam around it as a sabot fitting in my 3/4 alum tubing barrel (cpvc sleeved for 1/2 stefans) and shot it out at 160 psi.
Also Boondock Saints is surely quite the kickass film, I kept hearing whispers of a sequel, but that was 2 years ago and noting yet. Too bad.
FA.
#88025 New Effective Bullpup Design
Posted by
on 21 August 2006 - 09:07 PM
in
Homemades
I'm glad this topic came up because it reminded me to post a pic of my bull-pup nerf gun.
The reaper mk.2
I think the p90 mag would work, but I agree with Carbon about your sealing surfaces because your constraints would probably be too tight to worry about o-rings, so look towards brass.
FA.
The reaper mk.2
I think the p90 mag would work, but I agree with Carbon about your sealing surfaces because your constraints would probably be too tight to worry about o-rings, so look towards brass.
FA.
#88024 Reaper Mk.2 Build Progress
Posted by
on 21 August 2006 - 08:55 PM
in
Homemades
Pardon the double post folks, its been some time since an update.
I noticed the bullpup discussion beginning so I thought I would finally unveil the 'somewhat' finished product which has become my ongoing summer project. It is (as far as I can tell) the first high-capacity bullpup nerf rifle around.
Specs:
Capacity: 40+1
Max Range: 400feet
Max effective range with true stefans: roughly 275 feet
Rounds per min: 75
shots per fill: 7@35 psi, 1@125psi
pumps:? I have a C02 inflator, so I have no clue.
Hopefully I'll get the chance to get some good pics sooner or later. I've been working 70 hours a week and spending 30 hours or so a week renovating my new appartment so I've been too swamped to think about bondo.
FA.
I noticed the bullpup discussion beginning so I thought I would finally unveil the 'somewhat' finished product which has become my ongoing summer project. It is (as far as I can tell) the first high-capacity bullpup nerf rifle around.
Specs:
Capacity: 40+1
Max Range: 400feet
Max effective range with true stefans: roughly 275 feet
Rounds per min: 75
shots per fill: 7@35 psi, 1@125psi
pumps:? I have a C02 inflator, so I have no clue.
Hopefully I'll get the chance to get some good pics sooner or later. I've been working 70 hours a week and spending 30 hours or so a week renovating my new appartment so I've been too swamped to think about bondo.
FA.
#86833 Any Memorable Sports/hobby Moments?
Posted by
on 08 August 2006 - 08:14 PM
in
Off Topic
I think my most memorable memory would be during a rugby game at my old highschool where I dislocated my left shoulder pretty bad and to keep in the game I jumped and landed on my shoulder to pop it into place, which in turn broke my nose. So there I am covered in blood and 5min later I score a tri(sp). It was glorious but the hours spent in the hospital sucked all ass.
Well that's mine.
FA.
Well that's mine.
FA.
#85920 Reaper Mk.2 Build Progress
Posted by
on 28 July 2006 - 07:47 AM
in
Homemades
I was making very good progress so I took a moment to look back and consider my new design and I realised that my main reason for a new rifle was being lost on me. I needed to minimize the magazine first and foremost because at a foot long, the designs of other parts around this were becoming unweildy...worse than the first in means of ergonomics. Also the second chamber is going to add minimal additional volume and a great deal of weight in fittings including itself so I took it off (I have a C02 inflator and a high volume frame pump so I dont mind the extra pumping.
I'll post pics and edit this post this afternoon after I finish the new design changes. Once again sorry about the crappy quality pics.
FA.
*Edit*
I've cut down the magazine to hold 40 shells and have fabricated its reloading and feed chutes and am starting work on the trigger/electrical system. Once finished that I will be working on the ejection chute and will be cutting the bolt to length when all the measurements are completed. Hopefully I will be ready for cosmetic touches by sunday.
I'll post pics and edit this post this afternoon after I finish the new design changes. Once again sorry about the crappy quality pics.
FA.
*Edit*
I've cut down the magazine to hold 40 shells and have fabricated its reloading and feed chutes and am starting work on the trigger/electrical system. Once finished that I will be working on the ejection chute and will be cutting the bolt to length when all the measurements are completed. Hopefully I will be ready for cosmetic touches by sunday.
#85858 Do You Remember?
Posted by
on 27 July 2006 - 10:37 AM
in
General Nerf
Ratchet Blast for my birthday (I think I was either 10 or 11). I took off the arm guard to make it smaller and tried to remove the restrictors but it broke in the process...Even back in the day I was trying to mods things. My next gun before I got into modding was the SM5000 which I could not ever find in my basement to my dismay after I learned of its following and wickid potential.
FA.
FA.
#85805 Quick ?
Posted by
on 26 July 2006 - 07:31 PM
in
General Nerf
Do you mean one of those LED keychains? Shine yourself in the eyes repeadedly with one of those and you'll think yourself as much a jackass as your friends probably do.
Just use a regular flashlight, and some punctuation/capitalization.
FA.
Just use a regular flashlight, and some punctuation/capitalization.
FA.
#85801 Reaper Mk.2 Build Progress
Posted by
on 26 July 2006 - 06:19 PM
in
Homemades
It has been some time since I built the Reaper, and its flaws needed fixing, so I thought up ways to fix its noted deficiencies.
Original Thread
There were a few initial issues that needed to be addressed:
-It was too heavy
-The magazine went too high into the sightlineing the sprinkler valves and the pressure drop was significant enough to only get a few shots per fill…far too inefficient for what I wanted.
-It was both too big and too long. I wanted a bull pup assault rifle not an unwieldy piece of plastic that weights 27 pounds fully loaded.
So yesterday I got my first day off in 2 months so I sat down and began to build a rifle which is going to own its predecessor in ammo capacity, air chamber volume, ergonomics, and overall intimidation factor. This is what I've come up with thus far. Mind the crappy pics, 0.3 Mpl webcam.
The body is 1 1/4 conduit pvc (only place that sells SCH40 does so at a plumbing store parts counter and its not cheap, also it doesn't need to be pressure rated for my application.) You might notice I salvaged most of the parts from the original reaper and so far I've only spend 10 dollars on new material.
Behind the mock trigger is a sprinkler valve which has its solenoid removed while I build but I'm keeping it electrically actuated for a sweet trigger set-up I have in the works. The regulator isn't easily seen in the picture, but it is sitting behind the sprinkler valve, which leads to a tee to a 0-200 pressure gauge and to the main tank that is 14x2inch SCH40 pvc. attached to the front of the chamber is a brass tee where another brass tee comes off of that where a L-shaped piece of 1 1/2 SCH40 Pvc is attached, as well as a schrader valve (labeled a "snifter valve" at homehardware) there is another 1/4 inch hole which is cut off with a simple 1/4 threaded brass plug. On the very end of the 1 1/2 L chamber there is a ball valve which is simple there so I don't have to dump air through the sprinkler valve (I broke off the black lever-it still works but no manual dump anymore.)
I'm using the same shells as the Mk.1 however I initially wanted to use 3 inch shells. This made a great
deal of dead space in the finished product. So cutting down to a 1.5 inch shell meant I could cut down a lot of dead space and bring the new rifle from 37 inches to hopefully something around 28-32 inches while keeping its 14 inch barrel.
The bolt still needs to be finished as its made of 1 inch aluminum round stock pipe with 3/4 inch pvc conduit inside that the shell will fit into and rest against the pieces of 3/4 aluminum (grey in the pic beside the white CPVC.) I also didn't like the ease of the charging handle in the original reaper so I switched to a polished stainless steel handle that I happened to have lying around that will be perfect to use.
Bolt detail
Bolt charging handle
With more people using shells these days in their homemades I'm surprised linear magasines havent caught on more. OMPA make a working prototype in his NEAR, and Torque used one in his Boomstick.
This is the Original linear rotating mag that completely killed my sightline however looking through the centre was somewhat helpful but I wanted better!
It is made of 1/2 sch80 pvc which fits my shells with just enough room to slide. There are 10-11inch pipes around a 2 inch piece of 2in SCH40 pipe which has a 1-1/4 coupler hotglued inside. This makes it possible to have an unobscured sightline and increase the ammo capacity from 42+1 to 60+1! *edit* I made a mistake in measuring. I can fit 7 shells in each pipe, so the capacity is 70+1 but I'll be cutting that in roughly half in my design change.
So I need to finish the bolt and some minor fitting work before I can bondo this sucker and give it some looks (I want P90 meets alien vs. predator)
Questions/ Coments are always welcome and I'll post more as I find more time to work on it.
FA.
Original Thread
There were a few initial issues that needed to be addressed:
-It was too heavy
-The magazine went too high into the sightlineing the sprinkler valves and the pressure drop was significant enough to only get a few shots per fill…far too inefficient for what I wanted.
-It was both too big and too long. I wanted a bull pup assault rifle not an unwieldy piece of plastic that weights 27 pounds fully loaded.
So yesterday I got my first day off in 2 months so I sat down and began to build a rifle which is going to own its predecessor in ammo capacity, air chamber volume, ergonomics, and overall intimidation factor. This is what I've come up with thus far. Mind the crappy pics, 0.3 Mpl webcam.
The body is 1 1/4 conduit pvc (only place that sells SCH40 does so at a plumbing store parts counter and its not cheap, also it doesn't need to be pressure rated for my application.) You might notice I salvaged most of the parts from the original reaper and so far I've only spend 10 dollars on new material.
Behind the mock trigger is a sprinkler valve which has its solenoid removed while I build but I'm keeping it electrically actuated for a sweet trigger set-up I have in the works. The regulator isn't easily seen in the picture, but it is sitting behind the sprinkler valve, which leads to a tee to a 0-200 pressure gauge and to the main tank that is 14x2inch SCH40 pvc. attached to the front of the chamber is a brass tee where another brass tee comes off of that where a L-shaped piece of 1 1/2 SCH40 Pvc is attached, as well as a schrader valve (labeled a "snifter valve" at homehardware) there is another 1/4 inch hole which is cut off with a simple 1/4 threaded brass plug. On the very end of the 1 1/2 L chamber there is a ball valve which is simple there so I don't have to dump air through the sprinkler valve (I broke off the black lever-it still works but no manual dump anymore.)
I'm using the same shells as the Mk.1 however I initially wanted to use 3 inch shells. This made a great
deal of dead space in the finished product. So cutting down to a 1.5 inch shell meant I could cut down a lot of dead space and bring the new rifle from 37 inches to hopefully something around 28-32 inches while keeping its 14 inch barrel.
The bolt still needs to be finished as its made of 1 inch aluminum round stock pipe with 3/4 inch pvc conduit inside that the shell will fit into and rest against the pieces of 3/4 aluminum (grey in the pic beside the white CPVC.) I also didn't like the ease of the charging handle in the original reaper so I switched to a polished stainless steel handle that I happened to have lying around that will be perfect to use.
Bolt detail
Bolt charging handle
With more people using shells these days in their homemades I'm surprised linear magasines havent caught on more. OMPA make a working prototype in his NEAR, and Torque used one in his Boomstick.
This is the Original linear rotating mag that completely killed my sightline however looking through the centre was somewhat helpful but I wanted better!
It is made of 1/2 sch80 pvc which fits my shells with just enough room to slide. There are 10-11inch pipes around a 2 inch piece of 2in SCH40 pipe which has a 1-1/4 coupler hotglued inside. This makes it possible to have an unobscured sightline and increase the ammo capacity from 42+1 to 60+1! *edit* I made a mistake in measuring. I can fit 7 shells in each pipe, so the capacity is 70+1 but I'll be cutting that in roughly half in my design change.
So I need to finish the bolt and some minor fitting work before I can bondo this sucker and give it some looks (I want P90 meets alien vs. predator)
Questions/ Coments are always welcome and I'll post more as I find more time to work on it.
FA.
#85497 New Pneumatic Gun
Posted by
on 22 July 2006 - 05:13 AM
in
Homemades
You sir have the spelling capacity of a chimp with down syndrome, however I pissed off the chimp comparing him to you.
Seriously get off your ass and build something instead of posting a paint diagram, and while you're at it hit the books and pay attention in english class.
Also how do you plan on loading your blaster? ramrod?
Seriously get off your ass and build something instead of posting a paint diagram, and while you're at it hit the books and pay attention in english class.
Also how do you plan on loading your blaster? ramrod?
#84339 My Boomstick
Posted by
on 04 July 2006 - 04:56 PM
in
Homemades
This thing is simply beautifully put together. I'm so glad more people are following along with revolutionary homeades.
On a sidenote you should look into a rotating linear mag...should increase your ammo capacity by loads.
The Reaper
Take your design for your magazine, copy it 6 or 7 times around a piece of pipe that rotates and voila you're set to rock some socks.
FA.
On a sidenote you should look into a rotating linear mag...should increase your ammo capacity by loads.
The Reaper
Take your design for your magazine, copy it 6 or 7 times around a piece of pipe that rotates and voila you're set to rock some socks.
FA.
#84280 Buzz Bee Toys Tommy 20
Posted by
on 03 July 2006 - 07:46 PM
in
General Nerf
Question,
Is the turret in any way removable? If you were able to increase the range, and clip mod it... that thing could be sweet for indoor wars.
Great find by the way, I hope to see these in Canada sometime soon
FA.
Is the turret in any way removable? If you were able to increase the range, and clip mod it... that thing could be sweet for indoor wars.
Great find by the way, I hope to see these in Canada sometime soon
FA.
#82997 New Stefans
Posted by
on 08 June 2006 - 06:44 PM
in
Homemades
SGT. loser/asshole whatever,
The practicality of 1/2 FBR with wings really is overlooking the obvious. Do real bullets have wings? What does? Take a look at a tomahawk missile and its wings as a size comparison to bullets.
I've given some thought to this idea as well and you're thinking on too small of a scale. Now if you were to make lets say a titan missile with spring loaded wings you could have something on your hands which could kick ass.
Think larger grasshopper
*edit* gotta love the asshole autochange
The practicality of 1/2 FBR with wings really is overlooking the obvious. Do real bullets have wings? What does? Take a look at a tomahawk missile and its wings as a size comparison to bullets.
I've given some thought to this idea as well and you're thinking on too small of a scale. Now if you were to make lets say a titan missile with spring loaded wings you could have something on your hands which could kick ass.
Think larger grasshopper
*edit* gotta love the asshole autochange
#82891 Design Of Meh New Homemade!
Posted by
on 07 June 2006 - 09:10 AM
in
Homemades
Regardless if you believe your quickly made design in ms paint even deserves a name is beyond me, lately there have been countless 'designs' and 'concepts' coming out of the woodwork, and yes some actually do make it off paper but for the most part no they dont.
"your" design if you even bothered to look at carbon's snap is practically identical but you think yours is unique because of barrel material? Post something unique, or actually build something because what you have here sir is a one man reach-around and I just don't think you're flexible enough to deal with that.
"your" design if you even bothered to look at carbon's snap is practically identical but you think yours is unique because of barrel material? Post something unique, or actually build something because what you have here sir is a one man reach-around and I just don't think you're flexible enough to deal with that.
#82048 Pvc?
Posted by
on 19 May 2006 - 12:53 AM
in
General Nerf
Possibly off topic but what is the outside diameter of 1/2 pvc? I ask because 1/2 CPVC fits quite well inside 3/4 Alum. tubing.
Hope this helps somehow. If not, goodluck.
FA.
Hope this helps somehow. If not, goodluck.
FA.
#81530 The Reaper
Posted by
on 08 May 2006 - 08:37 PM
in
Homemades
It looks as though I am going back to the drawing board on the reaper. There were several areas of improvement, which I cannot deny.
First and foremost the weight and size is an issue. The damn thing is huge and unwieldy.
The design was primarily going to use 3-inch shells, therefore the bolt, bolt movement, lengths of specific parts all demonstrated this constraint. But now that 1.5 inch shells are used I am free to shorten these parts and make the reaper as I primarily intended, a Bull pup assault weapon.
I will be removing the secondary chamber and first valve because the semi-auto actuation it was meant to satisfy just was not air-efficient enough with the sprinkler valves using air to reseal their faces, twice for every shot. This change will cut weight and by using a momentary switch instead of a...um...non...momentary switch the shoot-reload-time should be greatly reduced and much more efficient in the end.
I also have a 16-inch barrel in a 36-inch gun. I see no problem in cutting that down to 12; retain accuracy with enough space for gas expansion.
In the end I do not want a 3 foot long, 20 pound monster, I want a 24 inch, 10 pound monster that would be much more ergonomic, while keeping the 43 round capacity and the means for chambering because it not only works, it looks so damn sweet.
I welcome ideas and hope to post a diagram sometime in the near future.
First and foremost the weight and size is an issue. The damn thing is huge and unwieldy.
The design was primarily going to use 3-inch shells, therefore the bolt, bolt movement, lengths of specific parts all demonstrated this constraint. But now that 1.5 inch shells are used I am free to shorten these parts and make the reaper as I primarily intended, a Bull pup assault weapon.
I will be removing the secondary chamber and first valve because the semi-auto actuation it was meant to satisfy just was not air-efficient enough with the sprinkler valves using air to reseal their faces, twice for every shot. This change will cut weight and by using a momentary switch instead of a...um...non...momentary switch the shoot-reload-time should be greatly reduced and much more efficient in the end.
I also have a 16-inch barrel in a 36-inch gun. I see no problem in cutting that down to 12; retain accuracy with enough space for gas expansion.
In the end I do not want a 3 foot long, 20 pound monster, I want a 24 inch, 10 pound monster that would be much more ergonomic, while keeping the 43 round capacity and the means for chambering because it not only works, it looks so damn sweet.
I welcome ideas and hope to post a diagram sometime in the near future.
#80909 The Reaper
Posted by
on 27 April 2006 - 07:11 PM
in
Homemades
That looks pretty cool. One question: what prevents more than one shell from loading? It would seem that opening the bolt (I'm assuming the bolt is a cylinder which covers a hole. I can't really tell from the pics) would allow shells to keep feeding continuously.
The bolt has room +/- 1/2 of an inch or so between the barrel and the rear sealing face of the bolt. When the gun it tipped forward like a stock class paintball marker the shell sits atop the bolt in a groove cut out for it, when the bolt is rotated to allow the shell to fall into the bolt, there is an odd chance that one shell will fall on top of the shell loaded in the bolt itself...however the second shell gets pushed aside by the bolt as it rotates, closing the bolt chamber and the shell is pushed up and is left sitting atop the closed chamber. This just took some careful sanding to get everything working correctly.
I am half thinking of taking the thing apart and taking some detailed pics of each component. Maybe next weekend, hell week starts tonight.
#80828 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 26 April 2006 - 06:09 PM
in
Homemades
The Topic
The Reaper
It's a pump/thumb actuated air powered gun I built with a magazine capacity of 42+1 in the chamber. It's max effective range is 400 feet, and havent tested it farther (max range may be more) that is only 133 meters which isn't too far when you really think about it. The regulator controls the amount of shots you get per charge, it can be from 1 at high power to 5 at low (indoor) power. I also have ordered a C02 bike pump for instant pressurization.
Loading and Dry firing of 7 shells
The Reaper
It's a pump/thumb actuated air powered gun I built with a magazine capacity of 42+1 in the chamber. It's max effective range is 400 feet, and havent tested it farther (max range may be more) that is only 133 meters which isn't too far when you really think about it. The regulator controls the amount of shots you get per charge, it can be from 1 at high power to 5 at low (indoor) power. I also have ordered a C02 bike pump for instant pressurization.
Loading and Dry firing of 7 shells
#80826 The Reaper
Posted by
on 26 April 2006 - 05:44 PM
in
Homemades
Looking back at this topic, I write far too much. I suppose I'm just dying to talk about the long hours put into this thing.
Z80, I would love to write up something on the gun but these days I'm working 6 days a week, plus writing exams this week and summer school starts up next week so I am extremely busy. Hopefully by july I can have something worth sending into the NIC.
The weather was not going to hold up for long so I took some new pics of the gun with the mag, and I also took a short vid...loading 7 shells into the mag tube and running them through a dry fire.
Rough Layout
Tubular Rotating Magazine
Loading Bolt Closed
Loading Bolt Opened.
(Video)Dry-Firing of the Gun
There is still a lot of work needing to be done, making the reloading smoother and whatnot, I'll just keep plugging away.
-Riley
Z80, I would love to write up something on the gun but these days I'm working 6 days a week, plus writing exams this week and summer school starts up next week so I am extremely busy. Hopefully by july I can have something worth sending into the NIC.
The weather was not going to hold up for long so I took some new pics of the gun with the mag, and I also took a short vid...loading 7 shells into the mag tube and running them through a dry fire.
Rough Layout
Tubular Rotating Magazine
Loading Bolt Closed
Loading Bolt Opened.
(Video)Dry-Firing of the Gun
There is still a lot of work needing to be done, making the reloading smoother and whatnot, I'll just keep plugging away.
-Riley
#80812 The Reaper
Posted by
on 26 April 2006 - 10:49 AM
in
Homemades
Pardon the double post, it’s been a few days and my posts have been huge so why not break it up a tad instead of one massive edit.
Anyways, I added the magazine onto the gun and decided to change the shells. Instead of two couplers and a 3-inch piece of 1/2-inch copper, I decided to shorten the shells to 1.5 inch CPVC with one copper coupler. I was planning on getting rid of the idea of using 5/8 Stefans but didn't know for sure till this weekend. So I sleeved 3/4 aluminium with 1/2 CPVC, the fit is snug, requiring only a bit of e-tape to make it secure. I made a batch of alternate shells and tested my magazine. Everything was built with the notion of weight, as my magazine would carry 6 feet of copper and 50 couplers in turn.
The utilization of CPVC lowered the weight and the length of the shells allowed me to almost double the amount of shells in the magazine. With the former shells I could carry 4 shells in 6 rows totalling 24 with one in the chamber for 25. Now I can carry 7 shells and one in the chamber for a grand total of 43!
I also did some range testing and dry firing and whatnot and this is what I found...
Using micro Stefans weighted with an 8-1/2 wood screw and nominal hot glue:
New tighter barrel (1/2 CPVC) and 1/2 CPVC shells, I was able to lower the working pressure of the regulator to 30 PSI from 60psi and am getting the same range of roughly 120 feet. The sleeved CPVC also increased the accuracy to the point that my gun can now support a scope if I wanted. I have been hitting a 2'x2' pizza box from 75 feet with a few shots to get the coordination right.
Since I lowered the regulator pressure, I am able to get a consistent 5 shots with minimal drop off. Both sprinkler valves use some precious are to reseal their orifices so the efficiency of the system is lacking. I could have used a ball valve to operate the lower chamber, but that would involve moving my hand from the handle and currently my hand never leaves the handle or trigger so it works out. I have also ordered a C02 bike pump from my local bike shop this morning, which will give instant pressurization.
I was able to range test this morning (it’s 3 degrees Celsius, but at least its not raining) and got a chance to get a maximum range…
I went to an old dirt cliff off a road outside of Peterborough and measured out a length of about 400 feet and stood back in 100-foot increments. If I saw a cloud of dust I scored a hit. Keep in mind I was not using typical Stefans, I was machine screws that weigh almost 5 grams and the foam served mainly as a sabot. I didn’t want to waste much time as I only had 5 of these heavy Stefans so I stood back at the 400-foot mark and put the pressure tank to a max 160 PSI (as high as my pump will go) and discharged both chambers at the same time. Again I was aiming for a pizza box and the little cloud of dust landed about 2.5 feet from my intended target. I was kneeling to steady the rifle about 2 feet off the ground and maybe had 5 degrees or so barrel lift from flat. There is little or no wind today which is great so I shot 4 more times and consistently hit the cliff with about 2-5 feet variance in accuracy (I don’t even have iron sights yet). I am calling the max effective range 400 feet.
So now that I have everything functional I’m going to keep perfecting things as time progresses. But I am extremely happy with the results. 43 round capacity, Semi-Auto firing, and Pump action. Plus the thing weighs 20 pounds dry; it is something I can lug around with relative ease, even with one hand because the balance worked out so well.
I’ll post updated pics soon…
-Riley.
Anyways, I added the magazine onto the gun and decided to change the shells. Instead of two couplers and a 3-inch piece of 1/2-inch copper, I decided to shorten the shells to 1.5 inch CPVC with one copper coupler. I was planning on getting rid of the idea of using 5/8 Stefans but didn't know for sure till this weekend. So I sleeved 3/4 aluminium with 1/2 CPVC, the fit is snug, requiring only a bit of e-tape to make it secure. I made a batch of alternate shells and tested my magazine. Everything was built with the notion of weight, as my magazine would carry 6 feet of copper and 50 couplers in turn.
The utilization of CPVC lowered the weight and the length of the shells allowed me to almost double the amount of shells in the magazine. With the former shells I could carry 4 shells in 6 rows totalling 24 with one in the chamber for 25. Now I can carry 7 shells and one in the chamber for a grand total of 43!
I also did some range testing and dry firing and whatnot and this is what I found...
Using micro Stefans weighted with an 8-1/2 wood screw and nominal hot glue:
New tighter barrel (1/2 CPVC) and 1/2 CPVC shells, I was able to lower the working pressure of the regulator to 30 PSI from 60psi and am getting the same range of roughly 120 feet. The sleeved CPVC also increased the accuracy to the point that my gun can now support a scope if I wanted. I have been hitting a 2'x2' pizza box from 75 feet with a few shots to get the coordination right.
Since I lowered the regulator pressure, I am able to get a consistent 5 shots with minimal drop off. Both sprinkler valves use some precious are to reseal their orifices so the efficiency of the system is lacking. I could have used a ball valve to operate the lower chamber, but that would involve moving my hand from the handle and currently my hand never leaves the handle or trigger so it works out. I have also ordered a C02 bike pump from my local bike shop this morning, which will give instant pressurization.
I was able to range test this morning (it’s 3 degrees Celsius, but at least its not raining) and got a chance to get a maximum range…
I went to an old dirt cliff off a road outside of Peterborough and measured out a length of about 400 feet and stood back in 100-foot increments. If I saw a cloud of dust I scored a hit. Keep in mind I was not using typical Stefans, I was machine screws that weigh almost 5 grams and the foam served mainly as a sabot. I didn’t want to waste much time as I only had 5 of these heavy Stefans so I stood back at the 400-foot mark and put the pressure tank to a max 160 PSI (as high as my pump will go) and discharged both chambers at the same time. Again I was aiming for a pizza box and the little cloud of dust landed about 2.5 feet from my intended target. I was kneeling to steady the rifle about 2 feet off the ground and maybe had 5 degrees or so barrel lift from flat. There is little or no wind today which is great so I shot 4 more times and consistently hit the cliff with about 2-5 feet variance in accuracy (I don’t even have iron sights yet). I am calling the max effective range 400 feet.
So now that I have everything functional I’m going to keep perfecting things as time progresses. But I am extremely happy with the results. 43 round capacity, Semi-Auto firing, and Pump action. Plus the thing weighs 20 pounds dry; it is something I can lug around with relative ease, even with one hand because the balance worked out so well.
I’ll post updated pics soon…
-Riley.
#80568 Money...
Posted by
on 21 April 2006 - 09:21 PM
in
Off Topic
We're telling you to "Get a fucking job" because most of us can use some creativity to figure out where money comes from and eithers probably have worked a few random jobs before the age of 16. Needless to say this is a Nerf modification forum, Not finding VV kid a job so he can make slim pickens and then shoot his little friends with his MAXXED OUT NF SUPER AMAZING MOD EVERYONE MUST SEE!!!11!!!...What I'm trying to say is that there is money everywhere, it is your job to figure out where money flows from, and exploit it.
Take old people and their dogs for walks!
Cut Grass, Shovel snow if it suits your climate.
It is not our job to figure this out for you and this isn't the first time this topic has come up.
Ass hat.
Take old people and their dogs for walks!
Cut Grass, Shovel snow if it suits your climate.
It is not our job to figure this out for you and this isn't the first time this topic has come up.
Ass hat.
#80518 Money...
Posted by
on 20 April 2006 - 11:48 PM
in
Off Topic
you're 13 or older right? Get a job you freeloader.
Fucking kids these days.
Fucking kids these days.
#80430 The Reaper
Posted by
on 20 April 2006 - 12:55 AM
in
Homemades
Shadow loser,
1. Regulator is a regular air tool mini regulator found at my local Home depot.
2. The trigger is just a power switch, I was going to run a power switch and a momentary to actuate the pilot solenoid, but I wanted a simpler route.
3. I worked on a few ejector systems but really a gravity fed system is more reliable and requires less working pieces by nature. Simply put look at the pic of the shell. The shell falls into a slot which closes against the fixed barrel and the lip of the shell slides into the 3/4 aluminum. When the shells falls in I'll consider that 0 degrees rotation. When you push the handle forward it moves the bolt and seals the shell to the bolt and barrel. I cut a diagonal ridge which pushes the bolt forward while moving it 90 degrees down from the top. The way I made it I can also use my thumb with ease, which is what I intended. To eject the shell you simply pull the handle back to its original position and use your thumb and push the bolt rotating another 90 degrees. If you look at the pics I took one with the bolt at 0,90, 180 degrees, just look closely.
4. I got some information from DB, general primevil and others about sprinkler valves and they are amazing valves but require additional pressure to reset the valve (reseal the orifice) My hope was a semi-auto ability to use about 3 or 4 shots per pumping. The valves lose a lot of air resetting so right now I can get two shots per fill, depending on what my regulator is set at, but this far I'm pleased with the results.
5. The primary charging chamber is 14x2 inches plus the endcaps, plus the firing chamber. I intend to buy a C02 bike pump to get instant pressure and I have a set up for 2 frame pumps to be pumped in tandem but for functionality right now I'm using a full size frame pump. Anyways I digress, it takes roughly 30 pumps to reach 120 psi in both chambers, so obviously less pumps if the pressure is lower or if I filled only one chamber at a time, I've been testing so there is a great deal of cosmetic and finctional work still to be done.
Knight Valor,
It's not about simplicity, it's about that fucking crow. Ok long story short. It wasn't nerfing that got me into homemades it was the drive to kill the crow that would come around my house last summer when I was working 3 full time jobs and would crow at 7am on my days off... Only My Days Off! Needless to say that birds days are numbered. I also wanted something that I could war with at my University, hense the need for the reg.
Also the design took lots of time to come together because I eyeball for the most part and love to tinker to make things work right. I built this with a drill, dremel and scroll saw...plus a few other things obviously.
DAVID BOWIE!
Thank god someone reminded me, I forgot to post pics of the mag I built but not put on the gun yet. I'll post pics tomorrow. The mag is a 6 barrel rotating mass not unlike a minigun that holds 4 shells per pipe. The mag holds 24 with one in the chamber and is removable. The mag slides onto a plate that has a bolt that slides forward to allow for singular rounds to be put into the mag. Under that the shells slide from the mag through a small opening and into the chamber. It's like an upside down shotgun mag, without springs and the needless complication. I wanted something simple and effective after seeing Pineys and others linear magazines and seeing a rotary design in a real shotgun...made me want one of my own. It's simple because all you need to do is tip the gun forward while actuating the bolt and gravity slides the spent shell out of the gun and advances one into the chamber.
Shotgun Mag
Imagine this upside down, somewhat bull pup for weight distribution and having six barrels instead of four.
1. Regulator is a regular air tool mini regulator found at my local Home depot.
2. The trigger is just a power switch, I was going to run a power switch and a momentary to actuate the pilot solenoid, but I wanted a simpler route.
3. I worked on a few ejector systems but really a gravity fed system is more reliable and requires less working pieces by nature. Simply put look at the pic of the shell. The shell falls into a slot which closes against the fixed barrel and the lip of the shell slides into the 3/4 aluminum. When the shells falls in I'll consider that 0 degrees rotation. When you push the handle forward it moves the bolt and seals the shell to the bolt and barrel. I cut a diagonal ridge which pushes the bolt forward while moving it 90 degrees down from the top. The way I made it I can also use my thumb with ease, which is what I intended. To eject the shell you simply pull the handle back to its original position and use your thumb and push the bolt rotating another 90 degrees. If you look at the pics I took one with the bolt at 0,90, 180 degrees, just look closely.
4. I got some information from DB, general primevil and others about sprinkler valves and they are amazing valves but require additional pressure to reset the valve (reseal the orifice) My hope was a semi-auto ability to use about 3 or 4 shots per pumping. The valves lose a lot of air resetting so right now I can get two shots per fill, depending on what my regulator is set at, but this far I'm pleased with the results.
5. The primary charging chamber is 14x2 inches plus the endcaps, plus the firing chamber. I intend to buy a C02 bike pump to get instant pressure and I have a set up for 2 frame pumps to be pumped in tandem but for functionality right now I'm using a full size frame pump. Anyways I digress, it takes roughly 30 pumps to reach 120 psi in both chambers, so obviously less pumps if the pressure is lower or if I filled only one chamber at a time, I've been testing so there is a great deal of cosmetic and finctional work still to be done.
Knight Valor,
It's not about simplicity, it's about that fucking crow. Ok long story short. It wasn't nerfing that got me into homemades it was the drive to kill the crow that would come around my house last summer when I was working 3 full time jobs and would crow at 7am on my days off... Only My Days Off! Needless to say that birds days are numbered. I also wanted something that I could war with at my University, hense the need for the reg.
Also the design took lots of time to come together because I eyeball for the most part and love to tinker to make things work right. I built this with a drill, dremel and scroll saw...plus a few other things obviously.
DAVID BOWIE!
Thank god someone reminded me, I forgot to post pics of the mag I built but not put on the gun yet. I'll post pics tomorrow. The mag is a 6 barrel rotating mass not unlike a minigun that holds 4 shells per pipe. The mag holds 24 with one in the chamber and is removable. The mag slides onto a plate that has a bolt that slides forward to allow for singular rounds to be put into the mag. Under that the shells slide from the mag through a small opening and into the chamber. It's like an upside down shotgun mag, without springs and the needless complication. I wanted something simple and effective after seeing Pineys and others linear magazines and seeing a rotary design in a real shotgun...made me want one of my own. It's simple because all you need to do is tip the gun forward while actuating the bolt and gravity slides the spent shell out of the gun and advances one into the chamber.
Shotgun Mag
Imagine this upside down, somewhat bull pup for weight distribution and having six barrels instead of four.
#80363 The Reaper
Posted by
on 19 April 2006 - 05:24 PM
in
Homemades
So since it is such a great day outside I got the chance to steal away from packing for a move and did some testing in the backyard. I tested the system to 120 psi and with crappy stefans (5/8 with 2-1.77 steel bb's) I'm getting a consistant flat trajectory of 125 feet@60 psi with a few feet of dart skip from about 2 feet off the ground (I was kneeling). The park across the street is busy today so hopefully by sunday I'll be able to get some maximum ranges tabulated. Accuracy and velocity is amazing, I plan on getting a reflex sight for this in the near future.
I took some more pics...
Snifter (Schrader) valves and pressure gauge.
Pressure regulator.
Rough trigger assembly.
Bolt opened, shell chambered.
Bolt closed, handle forward.
Bolt rotated into ejection port, shell coming through handle front.
Shell made of 1/2 inch copper and 2 copper couplers.
Barrel end, showing the gator lock.
16 inch silencer.
Edit: It seems as though I neglected to add the hotlinks to the pics for larger sizes and tried to add them with no luck, hope the pics are big enough.
#80321 The Reaper
Posted by
on 19 April 2006 - 01:34 AM
in
Homemades
So it looks like I finally am able to unveil my new homemade. I thought I may as well jump on the acronym bandwagon and called it the BFG (Big Freakin’ Gun). My roommate is sleeping so no pics till tomorrow morning but I’ll do my best to describe it.
It’s powered by air pressure and is pumped up by 2 bicycle frame pumps mounted on the body with a tandem handle, making it doubly efficient. The primary chamber is 2-inch SCH40 PVC with ¼ inch threads coming out of both end caps. On the back are the two Schrader valves, which are called snifter valves (home hardware) and are connected with a ¼ inch brass tee to the chamber and a pressure gauge measuring the initial pressure. The threading through the end cap is reinforced internally with a rubber washer, metal washer, and length of ½ inch copper, which is sleeved onto the threaded ¼ inch steel pipe and is secured by a nut. As a precaution I poured a generous amount of epoxy into the end cap, sealing the washers and the seam between the steel washer and the copper pipe.
On the other side of the 14-inch pressure vessel is another steel threaded end cap that is connected to a ¼ inch pressure regulator that lowers the pressure to a much more usable pressure. From a 90-degree brass fitting goes to a male copper adapter that threads into an electronically actuated sprinkler valve. The valve controls the flow of air into the secondary (firing) chamber which is roughly 7 inches long made of 1-1/2 SCH40 PVC and has a 90 degree bend to utilise as little space as possible. The firing chamber is threaded onto a brass ¼ inch tee that connects to a second sprinkler valve that empties the firing chamber. Connected to the sprinkler valve is the bolt. The bolt’s movement is a little tricky to explain as it moves only an inch or so forward and back and rotates 180 degrees. The main idea for this is to have a somewhat gravity fed where the cartridge falls into the bolt from a rotary linear magazine (not connected to the gun but built) which holds 24 shells. The cartridge sits in the bolt that is then rotated 90 degrees and pushed forward to seal the faces of the shell. The shell is made of ½ inch copper with 2 copper couplers with a 1/8-inch recess on each side to allow for the shells to sleeve into ¾ inch aluminium tubing and provide a great seal and also allow enough play for the shells to fall into the handle, falling out the front of the handle. I can use CPVC shells with 2 copper couplers, which is lighter but the 5/8 inch FBR I have fits beautifully into ½ copper and loose fitting in ¾ inch aluminium. If I want to use micro Stefans I have CPVC and ½ FBR just in case. The barrel is fixed to the gun and is about 16 inches long, with a gator lock on the end. I made a silencer that adds another effective 10 inches to the barrel and does great to help muffle the massive thunk the gun makes.
There is so much I may have missed and left out, this is mainly just a rough description of my homemade. I’m just happy the fucker is finally built. I put the electrical wiring in tonight and have only test fired it a few times, but the velocity and power behind it is intense. I’ve left the air assembly as one working piece, and the barrel assembly another. I’m planning on making a paintball loser assembly and a large bore foam chucker that uses ½ inch foam pipe insulator and brass plumbing ma-jiggers (I forget the name) for shells. I will be using the plastic alternative shells that fit 3 pieces of ½ inch copper real well to make a shotgun round.
My fiancé is especially glad it's finished, she feels neglected when I spend so much time in her basement (I use her basement as my workshop).
So I'll get pics tomorrow afternoon.
-Riley
It’s powered by air pressure and is pumped up by 2 bicycle frame pumps mounted on the body with a tandem handle, making it doubly efficient. The primary chamber is 2-inch SCH40 PVC with ¼ inch threads coming out of both end caps. On the back are the two Schrader valves, which are called snifter valves (home hardware) and are connected with a ¼ inch brass tee to the chamber and a pressure gauge measuring the initial pressure. The threading through the end cap is reinforced internally with a rubber washer, metal washer, and length of ½ inch copper, which is sleeved onto the threaded ¼ inch steel pipe and is secured by a nut. As a precaution I poured a generous amount of epoxy into the end cap, sealing the washers and the seam between the steel washer and the copper pipe.
On the other side of the 14-inch pressure vessel is another steel threaded end cap that is connected to a ¼ inch pressure regulator that lowers the pressure to a much more usable pressure. From a 90-degree brass fitting goes to a male copper adapter that threads into an electronically actuated sprinkler valve. The valve controls the flow of air into the secondary (firing) chamber which is roughly 7 inches long made of 1-1/2 SCH40 PVC and has a 90 degree bend to utilise as little space as possible. The firing chamber is threaded onto a brass ¼ inch tee that connects to a second sprinkler valve that empties the firing chamber. Connected to the sprinkler valve is the bolt. The bolt’s movement is a little tricky to explain as it moves only an inch or so forward and back and rotates 180 degrees. The main idea for this is to have a somewhat gravity fed where the cartridge falls into the bolt from a rotary linear magazine (not connected to the gun but built) which holds 24 shells. The cartridge sits in the bolt that is then rotated 90 degrees and pushed forward to seal the faces of the shell. The shell is made of ½ inch copper with 2 copper couplers with a 1/8-inch recess on each side to allow for the shells to sleeve into ¾ inch aluminium tubing and provide a great seal and also allow enough play for the shells to fall into the handle, falling out the front of the handle. I can use CPVC shells with 2 copper couplers, which is lighter but the 5/8 inch FBR I have fits beautifully into ½ copper and loose fitting in ¾ inch aluminium. If I want to use micro Stefans I have CPVC and ½ FBR just in case. The barrel is fixed to the gun and is about 16 inches long, with a gator lock on the end. I made a silencer that adds another effective 10 inches to the barrel and does great to help muffle the massive thunk the gun makes.
There is so much I may have missed and left out, this is mainly just a rough description of my homemade. I’m just happy the fucker is finally built. I put the electrical wiring in tonight and have only test fired it a few times, but the velocity and power behind it is intense. I’ve left the air assembly as one working piece, and the barrel assembly another. I’m planning on making a paintball loser assembly and a large bore foam chucker that uses ½ inch foam pipe insulator and brass plumbing ma-jiggers (I forget the name) for shells. I will be using the plastic alternative shells that fit 3 pieces of ½ inch copper real well to make a shotgun round.
My fiancé is especially glad it's finished, she feels neglected when I spend so much time in her basement (I use her basement as my workshop).
So I'll get pics tomorrow afternoon.
-Riley
#79178 A Question Regarding Sprinkler Valves
Posted by
on 08 April 2006 - 05:59 PM
in
Homemades
Thanks for all the responses guys!! gotta love the saturday afternoon pow wow.
So, I am going to keep the one chamber because it can always be removed and replaced with a more complicated set-up. I'll range test before another major design change
Holy crap, so I'm about to open my purple primer and it won't open for the life of me, so off to home depot I go.
I am going to look into something which will be the upgrade to my system...
chamber>solenoid valve>regulator>firing chamber>solenoid valve>barrel - then you could set up a spring loaded trigger with 2 momentary switches, where when the trigger is armed it would open the pressure chamber to the firing chamber and pulling the trigger would close that valve and open the valve to the barrel...just a thought from what I gather.
Anyways I digress.
GeneralPrimevil; I know that pneumatic actuation offers the best performance, but electric actuation works best for my needs right now and is just so damn sexy, so that is what I'll use for the time being.
So, I am going to keep the one chamber because it can always be removed and replaced with a more complicated set-up. I'll range test before another major design change
Holy crap, so I'm about to open my purple primer and it won't open for the life of me, so off to home depot I go.
I am going to look into something which will be the upgrade to my system...
chamber>solenoid valve>regulator>firing chamber>solenoid valve>barrel - then you could set up a spring loaded trigger with 2 momentary switches, where when the trigger is armed it would open the pressure chamber to the firing chamber and pulling the trigger would close that valve and open the valve to the barrel...just a thought from what I gather.
Anyways I digress.
GeneralPrimevil; I know that pneumatic actuation offers the best performance, but electric actuation works best for my needs right now and is just so damn sexy, so that is what I'll use for the time being.
#79168 A Question Regarding Sprinkler Valves
Posted by
on 08 April 2006 - 04:31 PM
in
Homemades
I am finishing up my homemade Nerf rifle this weekend but there is one piece that I have yet to finish putting together; the pressure vessel. I am using a 3/4 inch solenoid valve and my question is that currently I have a 14x2 inch chamber and would like more than one shot per filling the chamber. Is this possible or will all the air escape when I trigger the valve? This question basically governs whether I will keep the chamber at 14 inches or cut that number in half.
Any help from anyone with experience with type of valve would be greatly appreciated!
Any help from anyone with experience with type of valve would be greatly appreciated!
#78979 Sobr-p
Posted by
on 06 April 2006 - 05:04 AM
in
Homemades
May I say your homemade is coming along nicely!Also, can anyone recommend joining two pieces of similar steel without the use of heat, eectricity, or rivets? I think that kinda rules out just about everythin except for bolts with locknuts...or roll pins.
Have you thought of using steel epoxy to join your metal together? It's usually located right beside the other epoxies at my local hardware stores and does a fine job attaching metal to like metal, or so I've seen. If you need something structurally sound, you might want to use some rivets along seams and the epoxy as good measure. Just a thought.
Goodluck.
Also many of your pics don't work for me either.
#75746 Range Averages
Posted by
on 10 March 2006 - 04:03 PM
in
General Nerf
This really depends on the write up, while most will specify wether the angle is flat and rarely will it be as extreme as a 45 degree angle. Look at some of the modification writeups to see what I mean.level or pointed up at 45 degrees? Or somewhere in between?
#75677 Sharpshooter2
Posted by
on 09 March 2006 - 07:07 PM
in
General Nerf
How in the world did this guy accumulate over 100 posts without getting baned?
Sistermol you support reverse darwinism.
Sistermol you support reverse darwinism.
#75494 Mmno4
Posted by
on 07 March 2006 - 04:42 PM
in
Nerf Wars
The group I Nerf with is about 75 people, give or take the week...so given it's summer I would hope that at least 30 would come around for some carnage. I have about 10 friends in the immediate sauga area that would be up for something fun. I'm also hoping to set up a war during the summer, maybe july sometime. Being in the armpit of Ontario gives us lots of places that would kick serioius ass for a war. Most of the people I nerf with only use stock Buzzbee RFR's and its usually indoors while wasted. Oh the memories, or lack thereof. haha.
Anyways I digress. The summer would rock for some serious Ontario nerfouts. I'll start spreading the word and giving the website address to some of my friends at the next meeting I go to, to make sure they dont get creamed by modded blasters. Even if I can only get a carload of people at the very worst I'll be there.
Anyways I digress. The summer would rock for some serious Ontario nerfouts. I'll start spreading the word and giving the website address to some of my friends at the next meeting I go to, to make sure they dont get creamed by modded blasters. Even if I can only get a carload of people at the very worst I'll be there.
