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We can't really help you too much without internal pics of your blaster. The internal trigger spring reconfiguration is very important and consider gluing the slip clutch. Whenever I spin a mav cylinder or otherwise rotate the barrels I press the turret release button first anyways so you don't lose much functionality. Spring in the front piece of the turret makes a difference as well (between grey thing and turret) as it will push the turret back farther. I did just those mods with a removable turret (I find that the drop clip mod makes the blaster feel flimsy and is not effective for reloading) and was getting ranges decent enough to compete in more casual pistol rounds. Also, I'm guessing you know this already, but if you straight up removed the entire AR it will have no seal at all in the turret which could explain your ranges.
2) No. I've torn apart many AT3K's for people who replaced other tanks with 3k tanks.
3) Depends on how much pressure you intend to put in it. The goo gauge is a thin rubber sheet sealing colored mineral oil in the plastic tank. If you are really into the gauge you can probably replace it with a thicker sheet of rubber and see how it does (maybe even just a cut up piece of a punchbag balloon.) Not a big deal if you burst the gauge in terms of the rest of the blaster's functionality. Will just have blue oil squirting out of your blaster for awhile.
(I was working with an already modded blaster so I just used what was left of the stock barrels)
I really think this blaster has a ton of potential but if you put in an industrial spring it will destroy itself very, very quickly.
Would love to see one of these overhauled one day.
I did all mine with hornet tubing.
Snap the orange gauge off the tank. Get one of the metal dremel bits that looks like a drill bit and just slowly start going around the inside of the tank input. I advise against using the green grinding stone one because you can very easily melt the plastic. Once you break through the red ring at some point and the rest of it is really thin you can just go in there with a push pin or something like that and peel off the plastic. Thoroughly rinse or blow the tank out to make sure there is no plastic bits in there. At this point I advise doing an airflow mod.
A lot of people just snap or cut the front stem off where it connects to the tank. This is useless. The stem actually goes inside the tank lip for a bit and you can see it if you look from the back of the tank input... so until you remove the inner part the flow is just a restricted as before. Try wiggling the stem around a bit and see if you can't just snap the glue... if it doesn't go don't try to force it and risk snapping the front of your tank off. Instead, cut the stem at the base and do the same drill as the input to slowly grind the ring away. Pull the pin back when you hold it to minimize the chances of damaging the seal. This part is more important to not screw up than the back because if you stick the dremel past the ring at an angle and start hitting the walls of the inner tank it won't seal anymore. Enjoy my mspaint rendering:
Here is what a tank with the peg snapped out clean looks like: (notice where the diameter of the peg changes, goes a little more than halfway into the tank output)
Another comparison pic: (left mid is airflow modded and tubing replaced, right mid just has the peg snapped)
What tubing nesting looks like:
Now get your hornet tubing and wiggle it in the back of the tank. It should fit snugly. You will want a small but noticeable amount of tubing going into the tank itself to lessen the chances of the tubing being blown out of the tank from the pressure; just make sure you go past the base of the tank. Does this a couple times because when you put the glue on you aren't going to have much time to adjust it. I think I used superglue followed by goop but all you have to do is get the tubing attached. Maybe it was just goop. Once it's cured (or I guess you could do this step first if you want) stick a big screw driver or something like that into the other end of the hornet tubing to widen it a bit. It's more pliable if you put it in some very hot water for a few seconds first. Quickly stick in the AT2K pump output tubing and twist it around until it's inside the hornet tubing a fair amount and then cover the connection with goop and/or superglue.
Slice up the base of your goo gauge as needed for the tubing that takes it place and put a little goop on one side and stick it in the shell so it looks stock if you want.
And check out my topic here: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=18529 for detailed pics of an airflow modded turret (remember it's backwards for most pics)
Connecting the turret: (3k tank in pic, but you get the idea)
General SSII tips... lube the rubber stoppers in the selector mech and consider going over any seams with a coat of goop, also turn the plunger head inside out and flare it if you want to get a better seal. Whatever you do do not stick electrical tape on it... it will distort the plunger head and eventually leave sticky black residue all over the inside of your plunger tube.
The new Elite line probably changed this, but if you have an earlier blaster like a Nite Finder or Maverick you should take a look at the barrels closely. Only the bottom inch or less of the barrel forms a tight fit. That's why your foam is loose. There are also almost always air release holes in the stock barrel. In addition, even if the barrels were uniformly tight, the length is often too short to take advantage of the power... the dart will leave the barrel before the air behind it can propel it to it's "best." What blaster are you talking about in your post?
Blue, the nozzle is not superguable. It is fubar.
What I'm asking is if I can somehow fashion a CPVC or PVC or some sort of new valve on it.
So you would have to make a whole new valve assembly and somehow use it with that specific hard tank. At this point you are pretty much building a whole new tank... which is both quite difficult and probably costs more than it's worth. I'd just toss the soaker at this point.
Nice write-up, very well written. I especially like how you kept the front piece intact to allow turrets to be swapped easier.
Also, are you having problems with the Strongarm barrels being too short/too loose for the [k26]? I would imagine that the blaster basically dry fires every time you shoot it.
I don't think it's even possible to fit a [k26] in the Strongarm. He said "It almost feels like priming an NF with a [k26] equivalent", but I agree with you; that still sounds like an awful lot of spring power.
I did a pretty ugly job of fixing a maximizer but it's solid.
Lube up the black plunger tube and position the broken purple parts on it; you should be able to find one connecting point left between the two purple parts to center the barrel correctly. Hotglue for a temporary hold, then go around the base with putty so that it forms, but does not stick, to the plunger tube. Remove hotglue as you go and add more putty as desired... I went with the "better safe than sorry" approach...
Post a photo (or several) of the blaster, that will go a long way in determining a solution to your problem.
Very much agree here.
Don't stress too much about the blaster because it is worth under $50 even NIB, I sold a very beat up NIB Arrowstorm for around $35 a year or two ago. I believe the version I had said "NEW" on the box and came with purple arrows.
Questions I would ask:
Did the box have any packing in it? There should be cardboard besides the box to keep things from mushing around.
Do the barrels of the blaster have ridges in them? If so, then you have a second gen.
From my limited knowledge and probably some misinformation the very first run ones came with purple arrows. Ones after that came with the speckled ones (Xbows have these arrows too) and none came with solid black fins. I think the solid black finned ones came from refill packs.
But yeah, snap some pictures and get back to us. I'm assuming the real question you want us to answer is "Did I buy a used Arrowstorm when it was sold to me as a new one?"