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#340579 How to remove leftover stickers

Posted by Blue on 20 July 2014 - 08:59 PM in General Nerf

Confirmed the butter trick today. Works fantastic, way better than the rubbing alcohol I've been using for this. Especially good for removing stickers on painted parts because the alcohol will take off some of the paint along with the sticky. Thanks for sharing!

#338103 Maverick Range Issues

Posted by Blue on 07 April 2014 - 01:03 PM in Modifications

When you say mill work, do you mean you have a machine that sands your blasters? Or are you hand sanding all of them? Either way they look good.

We can't really help you too much without internal pics of your blaster. The internal trigger spring reconfiguration is very important and consider gluing the slip clutch. Whenever I spin a mav cylinder or otherwise rotate the barrels I press the turret release button first anyways so you don't lose much functionality. Spring in the front piece of the turret makes a difference as well (between grey thing and turret) as it will push the turret back farther. I did just those mods with a removable turret (I find that the drop clip mod makes the blaster feel flimsy and is not effective for reloading) and was getting ranges decent enough to compete in more casual pistol rounds. Also, I'm guessing you know this already, but if you straight up removed the entire AR it will have no seal at all in the turret which could explain your ranges.

#337081 New here from Tucson AZ, hoping to learn to fix/upgrade foam dart guns

Posted by Blue on 16 February 2014 - 11:03 AM in General Nerf

In regards to fixing your brass barrels: Use a dremel sanding cone or some other large sanding bit that fits inside your barrel and lightly sand the edges of the lip (try not to go on the inside of the barrel, not too big of a deal if you do... after all this is a tek3) Once you get that down to mostly flush, go in with your needle nose pliers. Stick the tip down the barrel and quickly start twisting and it will pop the brass out on the edges. Sanding is done before this so that you don't smoosh the brass lip to the inside of the barrel. Post pics too if you want to get more help.

#336985 Nerf recon not working

Posted by Blue on 11 February 2014 - 03:45 PM in Modifications

Please don't take anything on youtube nerf seriously; at least not before getting multiple opinions on it. Youtube nerf videos are often free from any sort of useful discussion or standards due to the fanboy mentality of the viewers (note how you felt the need to name drop instead of just saying a youtube tutorial when you weren't even posting a link to it.) If you want to have mods that are reviewed by people who know what they are doing and are actively looking for ways it could be improved you should stick around and check out some of the write-ups here.

#336856 What's a good replacement?

Posted by Blue on 03 February 2014 - 11:17 PM in Modifications

I've opened a 5K tank before. It is by far the most difficult tank I have ever dealt with although most of it was probably due to how the previous owner cut it. I assume you have opened up your blaster and have the tank. When you shake it, does it rattle? The seal is a bathtub plug looking thing stuck on a hook instead of a rubber washer on the end of the metal shaft like the AT#K series. Usually the plastic "U" part of the seal the metal hook goes through snaps so nothing happens when you pull the trigger. Also the pump check valve can go bad so make sure you try a known working pump. Anyways, I know that on first glance it might look like a good idea to cut right along the seam but if you do then you will have no way to reinforce the joint when you try to glue it back together again. Cut above or below and leave enough room for electrical tape. When you superglue it back together, quickly and tightly wrap the electrical tape around the joint applying superglue as you go. The force of the tape will help center the halves and when dried it will be stronger than the original plastic itself.

#336855 Help with springs!

Posted by Blue on 03 February 2014 - 10:56 PM in Homemades

Seems like you are trying to base an entire blaster around a ~$5 part... by all means go for it if that's your goal but not the route most would take. Also looks like that spring is too beefy for any practical purposes nerf wise. Were there other springs like that one being used as shock absorbers on the robot or something like that?

#336729 zombie strike crossfire singled coupler

Posted by Blue on 28 January 2014 - 11:39 PM in Modifications

"The tube the plunger slides through" is called the plunger tube. Is the barrel thing similar to what a roughcut uses? Blaster reminds me of a SSII for some reason.

#336725 Broken Mav

Posted by Blue on 28 January 2014 - 10:41 PM in General Nerf

You should be able to get a replacement maverick catch for around a buck shipped if you choose that route. In the mean time, you can do an immediate fix with superglue. For long term I would look into dremeling/drilling a little slot crossing the crack and supergluing a piece of paper clip (or maybe coat hanger if you want to be really thorough, not sure if that would make the remaining plastic too weak to fit it) in there. I'm not sure how tight the specifications are but you might have issues with the catch moving up and down like it's supposed to if you use epoxy and it's very easy to apply too much.

#336661 Splitfire Help

Posted by Blue on 26 January 2014 - 06:53 PM in Modifications

Have you tried getting some silicone grease in there? Looks like you could use a bent q-tip (make sure you don't get cotton stuck in it, maybe cut off the tip) to get around the edges seeing as the barrels are completely gone. It's pretty thick and gummy which helps the piston seal to to the lip of the tank; but if you put too much it might have some issues with the backpressure pulling the seal back to release the air too slowly or not at all. Also consider soaking the tank in mineral oil overnight. Stay away from silicone sprays. Just suggestions; try at your own risk. I know how frustrating backpressure can be and sometimes it's just not salvageable.

#336633 Modding the AT3k

Posted by Blue on 24 January 2014 - 09:46 PM in General Nerf

1) Any small bike pump or smaller diameter longer nerf pump (Magstrike, RF20, Hornet). Google it. You aren't the only one disgusted by the stock pump.
2) No. I've torn apart many AT3K's for people who replaced other tanks with 3k tanks.
3) Depends on how much pressure you intend to put in it. The goo gauge is a thin rubber sheet sealing colored mineral oil in the plastic tank. If you are really into the gauge you can probably replace it with a thicker sheet of rubber and see how it does (maybe even just a cut up piece of a punchbag balloon.) Not a big deal if you burst the gauge in terms of the rest of the blaster's functionality. Will just have blue oil squirting out of your blaster for awhile.

#336365 Sharpshooter II micro-dart adapter low cost, quick deadspace removal.

Posted by Blue on 06 January 2014 - 05:43 PM in Modifications

Found a pic of what I was talking about:
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(I was working with an already modded blaster so I just used what was left of the stock barrels)

I really think this blaster has a ton of potential but if you put in an industrial spring it will destroy itself very, very quickly.
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Would love to see one of these overhauled one day.

#336364 AT2K goo gauge removal

Posted by Blue on 06 January 2014 - 05:33 PM in Modifications

I've redone the tubing on at least half a dozen 2k's and it's really not that hard.

I did all mine with hornet tubing.

Snap the orange gauge off the tank. Get one of the metal dremel bits that looks like a drill bit and just slowly start going around the inside of the tank input. I advise against using the green grinding stone one because you can very easily melt the plastic. Once you break through the red ring at some point and the rest of it is really thin you can just go in there with a push pin or something like that and peel off the plastic. Thoroughly rinse or blow the tank out to make sure there is no plastic bits in there. At this point I advise doing an airflow mod.

A lot of people just snap or cut the front stem off where it connects to the tank. This is useless. The stem actually goes inside the tank lip for a bit and you can see it if you look from the back of the tank input... so until you remove the inner part the flow is just a restricted as before. Try wiggling the stem around a bit and see if you can't just snap the glue... if it doesn't go don't try to force it and risk snapping the front of your tank off. Instead, cut the stem at the base and do the same drill as the input to slowly grind the ring away. Pull the pin back when you hold it to minimize the chances of damaging the seal. This part is more important to not screw up than the back because if you stick the dremel past the ring at an angle and start hitting the walls of the inner tank it won't seal anymore. Enjoy my mspaint rendering:
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Here is what a tank with the peg snapped out clean looks like: (notice where the diameter of the peg changes, goes a little more than halfway into the tank output)
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Another comparison pic: (left mid is airflow modded and tubing replaced, right mid just has the peg snapped)
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What tubing nesting looks like:
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Now get your hornet tubing and wiggle it in the back of the tank. It should fit snugly. You will want a small but noticeable amount of tubing going into the tank itself to lessen the chances of the tubing being blown out of the tank from the pressure; just make sure you go past the base of the tank. Does this a couple times because when you put the glue on you aren't going to have much time to adjust it. I think I used superglue followed by goop but all you have to do is get the tubing attached. Maybe it was just goop. Once it's cured (or I guess you could do this step first if you want) stick a big screw driver or something like that into the other end of the hornet tubing to widen it a bit. It's more pliable if you put it in some very hot water for a few seconds first. Quickly stick in the AT2K pump output tubing and twist it around until it's inside the hornet tubing a fair amount and then cover the connection with goop and/or superglue.

Slice up the base of your goo gauge as needed for the tubing that takes it place and put a little goop on one side and stick it in the shell so it looks stock if you want.

And check out my topic here: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=18529 for detailed pics of an airflow modded turret (remember it's backwards for most pics)

Connecting the turret: (3k tank in pic, but you get the idea)
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#336214 Sharpshooter II micro-dart adapter low cost, quick deadspace removal.

Posted by Blue on 31 December 2013 - 09:02 PM in Modifications

This is called a lazyman mod. I'm not a fan of youtube nerf due to the cult like following for no good reason so it bothers me that you felt the need to credit someone who did something people have been doing for over a decade. Almost any blaster designed to shoot megas can be lazy man modded. As for the deadspace removal, I am skeptical of any tangible results. Generally speaking you did a straw mod and I seem to recall that mod being debunked although I can't find a source as of now. Have you done any tests comparing a modified barrel to a same length non-modified barrel?

General SSII tips... lube the rubber stoppers in the selector mech and consider going over any seams with a coat of goop, also turn the plunger head inside out and flare it if you want to get a better seal. Whatever you do do not stick electrical tape on it... it will distort the plunger head and eventually leave sticky black residue all over the inside of your plunger tube.

#336167 Why not stock barrel

Posted by Blue on 30 December 2013 - 04:28 PM in Darts and Barrels

Seems like you are just starting out. The first thing you should do is head out to your local hardware store and get a 10' section of CPVC ($4) and a couple CPVC couplers or endcaps (endcaps are sometimes easier to use... drill through the center and you got yourself a deadspace free coupler) ($.4 a piece.) You can get MD or frost king foam at your local home depot for around $4 for 20' which will get you well over 100 1.5" darts even accounting for mishaps or squished foam. Pick up some copperhead bb's (bring an 18+ year old for this) at walmart and hopefully you have hotglue and a hair dryer at home already. You can ignore anyone who talks about springer or airgun fit as you can use CPVC for everything.

The new Elite line probably changed this, but if you have an earlier blaster like a Nite Finder or Maverick you should take a look at the barrels closely. Only the bottom inch or less of the barrel forms a tight fit. That's why your foam is loose. There are also almost always air release holes in the stock barrel. In addition, even if the barrels were uniformly tight, the length is often too short to take advantage of the power... the dart will leave the barrel before the air behind it can propel it to it's "best." What blaster are you talking about in your post?

#336083 Problem with RapidStrike

Posted by Blue on 26 December 2013 - 09:43 PM in General Nerf

Just as a general rule of thumb... if it doesn't work right out of the box; RETURN IT! You are paying for this privilege when you buy new. There's no telling what else could be wrong with the blaster either. I saw a fully stocked endcap of $25 rapidstrikes when I went to my local target a few days ago... try calling stores and giving them the item number before you waste your time actually visiting only to come out empty handed.

#336081 Nerf Iron Man 3 Iron Flyer Mod

Posted by Blue on 26 December 2013 - 09:30 PM in Modifications

These things are not jolts. They are vastly inferior. The plastic feels thinner and cheaper, the trigger is not nearly as nice, and the ranges I got out of an Iron man blaster modded with a CPVC barrel compared to just an AR removed Triad were a solid 30'+ less. I didn't mess with the spring like you did though. I would pass one of these up even if it was a buck at a thrift shop. Solid writeup on a terrible blaster, good work.

#336079 Stefans for a Centurion

Posted by Blue on 26 December 2013 - 09:01 PM in Darts and Barrels

I'm pretty sure that the new Mega darts for the centurion are the same dimensions as the old megas; just with a different tip so they work in clips. 5/8" FBR cut into 4" or maybe a little less to accommodate for whatever you choose to tip them with should work fine with an AR removed centurion. As for mods, you can search google as well as any of us can.

#335826 Raider CS-35 Jamming/Low Power

Posted by Blue on 05 December 2013 - 09:15 PM in General Nerf

Why on earth did you let your friend buy a NEW raider? I don't even see them listed as a regular item on Amazon anymore and the rampage is only $20 http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B0083TXX9U . With that expensive kit you might be able to get performance only slightly better than what an AR removal would do for the rampage.

#335825 Lock n Load prices

Posted by Blue on 05 December 2013 - 09:11 PM in General Nerf

Prices fluctuate a lot, but overall the market for used nerf blasters has really gone down compared to what they were even as recent as two years ago. Search ebay completed listings and look in trading for past sales.


#333235 RF20 powered Vulcan

Posted by Blue on 19 August 2013 - 12:23 PM in Modifications

I like the creativity you used here. Keep up the great work!

#333137 How do you cut Plastic Tubing from McMaster?

Posted by Blue on 16 August 2013 - 07:21 PM in Darts and Barrels

The difficulty of dealing with PETG was one of the reasons I began using CPVC. I used to use a hacksaw then about 20 minutes of sanding whenever I dealt with it. I haven't actually tried this but if I recall correctly you can make pretty clean cuts using a piece of 17/32 brass and rotating pipe cutters (the wheel one, not the knife one.) Roughly cut the PETG with some extra out, insert the brass, and then you can use the roller cutters without crunching the PETG and smashing it.

#332781 B.A.N.O. Revamp?

Posted by Blue on 08 August 2013 - 11:01 AM in Nerf Wars

I'm interested in doing something. I can make anything provided we have enough people to actually play.

#332498 Broken Air Tank repair help

Posted by Blue on 30 July 2013 - 06:28 PM in Modifications

Blue, the nozzle is not superguable. It is fubar.
What I'm asking is if I can somehow fashion a CPVC or PVC or some sort of new valve on it.

So you would have to make a whole new valve assembly and somehow use it with that specific hard tank. At this point you are pretty much building a whole new tank... which is both quite difficult and probably costs more than it's worth. I'd just toss the soaker at this point.

#332495 Broken Air Tank repair help

Posted by Blue on 30 July 2013 - 05:52 PM in Modifications

I don't know supersoakers but if what you are saying is that the end of the air tank/nozzle is broken off there is not a very good chance of repairing. Are the pieces supergluable back together?

#328808 Clash of Steel: Necrohorse of Glory (Working Title)

Posted by Blue on 16 April 2013 - 08:46 PM in Nerf Wars

buttfrustrated much?


#328730 Compilation of Shipping weight for nerf blasters.

Posted by Blue on 13 April 2013 - 09:27 PM in General Nerf

I get what you are trying to do here, but I am in total agreement with Carbon. Boxes and packaging can easily add a pound or two if not more to the actual weight and the range your package is in determines price more than anything. I've often had cases where cutting off one flap of a cardboard box saved over $5 in shipping costs. If you've shipped more than a dozen packages, I strongly suggest you buy a simple 11 lb food scale. You can get one on amazon for ten bucks HERE.

#328289 BANO #4: Revamped

Posted by Blue on 22 March 2013 - 11:54 PM in Nerf Wars

In case anyone has been reading this and is planning on going, it's not happening tomorrow due to lack of attendance.

#328238 Silencing a Max Shot

Posted by Blue on 20 March 2013 - 05:28 PM in General Nerf

As someone who has owned a couple maxshots that have exploded or already been broken, I can tell you that you are mistaken thinking that leaving a lock in will stop it from exploding. If you plan on silencing your maxshot you are likely going to have to replace the seal because it is simply terrible. I put some time into replacing the plunger head and tube with a quadshot plunger head and tube but I lost interest and sold it before I could even try to see if it worked. I recommend you try to find a nice rubber/metal washer combo and to somehow replace the crossbar type style of plunger that the maxshot has. If you want to keep the current seal for now, try putting a couple layers of teflon tape UNDER the seal.

#328138 BANO #4: Revamped

Posted by Blue on 18 March 2013 - 12:48 AM in Nerf Wars

I assumed the 3rd is meant to be 23rd, but I'm equally available for the 24th. Besides me and HOTH, who here is willing to attend something? I can possibly give rides to people if transportation is an issue. Nothing will happen if you don't speak up though.

#328035 Dollarama AIR BLASTER

Posted by Blue on 15 March 2013 - 01:53 PM in Modifications

I've seen these around, I think they are one of those summer seasonal toys they put on aisle end caps at some stores. It's of the absolute worst quality, and I can tell you from experience with knockoff TTG's and similar blasters that you will more than likely end up just destroying this out of frustration/boredom because no matter what you do to this thing SOMETHING will break. Just don't try to push this thing too far because it's not worth your time or materials.

#327971 BANO #4: Revamped

Posted by Blue on 13 March 2013 - 09:17 PM in Nerf Wars

I can possibly attend something (just needs to have enough people) if it is held on the 23rd or 24th. I haven't been up to date on Bay Area wars, is there a new group email or do you guys just check the wars section for threads?

#327954 Firestrike Swappable Inline Clip Mod

Posted by Blue on 13 March 2013 - 02:03 PM in Modifications

I like what you did with the piece of pen to thicken the screw ports so that the catch doesn't flex.

#327953 Nerf Elite Strongarm Clip Mod

Posted by Blue on 13 March 2013 - 01:47 PM in Modifications

Nice write-up, very well written. I especially like how you kept the front piece intact to allow turrets to be swapped easier.

Also, are you having problems with the Strongarm barrels being too short/too loose for the [k26]? I would imagine that the blaster basically dry fires every time you shoot it.

I don't think it's even possible to fit a [k26] in the Strongarm. He said "It almost feels like priming an NF with a [k26] equivalent", but I agree with you; that still sounds like an awful lot of spring power.

#327926 Nerf Elite Strongarm Clip Mod

Posted by Blue on 12 March 2013 - 04:18 PM in Modifications

Seems like the only thing left to do is http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=17302
Very clean write-up; nice work.

#327608 Firestrike Firefly Mod

Posted by Blue on 04 March 2013 - 02:52 PM in Modifications

Very cool and very clean. I especially like how you managed to perfectly center the LED with the pen tube.

#327246 maximizer modification

Posted by Blue on 23 February 2013 - 08:29 PM in Modifications

Sorry to bring back a somewhat old topic, but I felt the need to comment on this. I'm confident, but not positive, that the stock plastic breaks because of the forward force of the spring when the blaster is fired. You did solid job replacing the barrel and adding a clean bushing and bolt, but where beefy plastic failed you substituted hot glue and electrical tape. I'm also guessing that this is the reason why your maximizer does not have a good air seal, which can make firing the blaster even more self-destructive.

I did a pretty ugly job of fixing a maximizer but it's solid.

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Lube up the black plunger tube and position the broken purple parts on it; you should be able to find one connecting point left between the two purple parts to center the barrel correctly. Hotglue for a temporary hold, then go around the base with putty so that it forms, but does not stick, to the plunger tube. Remove hotglue as you go and add more putty as desired... I went with the "better safe than sorry" approach...

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#325104 Arrowstorm Verification Assistance

Posted by Blue on 06 January 2013 - 04:47 PM in General Nerf

Post a photo (or several) of the blaster, that will go a long way in determining a solution to your problem.

Very much agree here.

Don't stress too much about the blaster because it is worth under $50 even NIB, I sold a very beat up NIB Arrowstorm for around $35 a year or two ago. I believe the version I had said "NEW" on the box and came with purple arrows.

Questions I would ask:
Did the box have any packing in it? There should be cardboard besides the box to keep things from mushing around.
Do the barrels of the blaster have ridges in them? If so, then you have a second gen.

From my limited knowledge and probably some misinformation the very first run ones came with purple arrows. Ones after that came with the speckled ones (Xbows have these arrows too) and none came with solid black fins. I think the solid black finned ones came from refill packs.

But yeah, snap some pictures and get back to us. I'm assuming the real question you want us to answer is "Did I buy a used Arrowstorm when it was sold to me as a new one?"

#325082 Fix for Elite dart jams in Longshots

Posted by Blue on 05 January 2013 - 03:07 PM in Modifications

Cool stuff. I noticed issues with elite darts in a couple of brass breeched clipped blasters I have, is the issue really just as simple as fixing the clearance for the head? If it is I may be motivated enough to brass my Retaliator....

#325081 Lost Firefly Screws

Posted by Blue on 05 January 2013 - 03:02 PM in Modifications

From my experience nerf only uses two types of screws... big head ones and small head ones. The big ones don't go in small screw holes because the head doesn't fit, but I think that the screw threads themselves are very similar in size. If you have nite finders laying around, consider minimizing them or removing the screws that hold the lasers. You can get around seven screws or so and with careful placement you can get a solid Firefly shell. Plus, buying screws is not very cheap.

#324931 Separating the Strongarm Turret

Posted by Blue on 30 December 2012 - 06:07 PM in Modifications

You are doing something that has never been done before on this particular blaster, and furthermore this blaster is one that most people here have never even seen in person. So you are probably one of the most knowledgeable people out there when it comes to the Strongarm. If I had to GUESS I would say that maybe the turret is snapped in place by strong tabs? You may end up breaking the turret, but that's a risk you run when you try new things. Good luck to you either way.