This is still excellent work, I look forward to seeing more from you in the future!

Id also recommend considering coarse thread screws into simple holes. In my Mk18, Ive got a screw going through the plunger head into the plunger rod and I havent had one fail despite the ~15kg springload applied directly opposite. I think for m2.6/#4 Im using a 2.6mm designed diameter hole, for m3/#6 a 3mm hole.

I will try the plastic larger thread pitch screws for my next nerf project. 15kg sounds like a stiff spring!

Part 5 - Arduino Code

Use the following code with the schematic in the last post to give you a better idea of what does what.

There was much research, trial and error to get the code working, but here it is:

const int buttonPinF = 2;      // Flywheel Rev microswitch pin number
const int buttonPinS = 5;      // Solenoid microswitch pin number
int buttonStateF = 0;             // Variable for reading the Flywheel Rev microswitch status
int buttonStateS = 0;             // Variable for reading the Solenoid microswitch status
int solenoidPin = 4;              // Solenoid MOSFET Gate pin number

#include <Servo.h>

Servo throttle;

int pos = 0;
int pin = 3;                            // ESC signal pin

void setup() {
  
   pinMode(buttonPinF, INPUT); 	       // Initialize the Flywheel microswitch pin as an input
   pinMode(buttonPinS, INPUT); 	       // Initialize the Solenoid microswitch pin as an input
   throttle.attach(pin);
   pinMode(solenoidPin, OUTPUT);         // Sets Solenoid MOSFET Gate pin as an output
    
 // ESC Arming Sequence
   for (pos = 90; pos <= 91; pos += 1) { 
      throttle.write(pos);             
      delay(3700);                                         // Wait for ESC to arm / Exit safety mode

// Increase this 3700 value depending on how long it takes for your ESC to arm

   }
}

void loop() {
  
    buttonStateF = digitalRead(buttonPinF);  // Read state of Flywheel microswitch value
 
    if (buttonStateF == HIGH) {  // Check microswitch pressed, if so Flywheel buttonState is HIGH
    throttle.write(92);                 // <(92) = Motor off / (92) = Idle speed
  } else {
    throttle.write(97);                // Motor on (92) = Idle speed / ~(115) = Max speed
  }

buttonStateS = digitalRead(buttonPinS);    // Read state of Solenoid microswitch value

  if (buttonStateF == LOW && buttonStateS == LOW) {
  digitalWrite(solenoidPin, HIGH);           // Switch Solenoid ON
  delay(90);                                                // ON duration
  digitalWrite(solenoidPin, LOW);           // Switch Solenoid OFF
  delay(100);                                             // OFF duration
   } else {
      digitalWrite(solenoidPin, LOW);      // Switch Solenoid OFF
  }
}

 

 

 

I think this is a case of differing settings - I've had tree supports that came off a horizontal supported surface so cleanly that I couldn't tell what surface was supported. I've also heard of guys using auto standard supports getting similar results, but have never had much success with them myself.

 

I find trees tend to come off more readily in one piece, but they can lap funnily into areas they don't belong.

 

I feel like it'd be possible to design the supports in as maybe boxes that pop off somewhat cleanly but don't wreck the surface. I may try that since I have some extra filament and printing time...

 

Oh also, I've had great success using coarse thread screws like wood, sheet metal, plastite, etc. Inserts are nice, but IMO overkill for 99% of parts - you don't really need to open and close these things so much that a coarse thread will strip the plastic out except in the case of an access hatch or battery bay. A machine thread could certainly strip though, those are too fine for the plastic to hold long.

Interesting, I will test that 3D printed thread, though I use small m3 sizes. Also, printing a threaded hole sideways (sometimes I have to) the hole is sometimes not perfectly circular.

I will test tree supports on my next project.

This is some of the best content ever posted on NH, thanks for sharing in detail!

Manual supports is a good approach for a lot of these kind of parts, even if it's a lot of work. In a sense, the major design consideration of design for 3D printing is dealing with overhangs, as they're a necessary part of a lot of parts.

 

I've had mixed feelings about tree supports. They're really great for parts where you need support, but where there isn't clearance all the way to the print bed. When that's not the case, then regular supports often work better.

Thank you!

I haven't looked into tree supports yet. The reason I don't think tree supports is useful for this project is that there are a lot of larger, flat horizontal surfaces to support. Tree supports I thought were good for small overhang features, which is rare in this project, surprisingly. I do a lot of bridging instead.

When creating manual supports you may notice in the above pictures there is a gap intentionally left around the supports so that removal does not result in damaging the part. Any auto-supports is not smart enough to know this.

You went with manual supports?!?

 

First, I'd like to see how you've gone about making them. Second, those grids that are left over look more difficult to remove than some of the auto-generated supports I've used, especially tree supports.

 

This remains an excellent post, I hope you continue to fill it out.

Ah yes, manual because i'm crazy like that!

Auto supports tends to be dense, I have to saw / cut it off in some instances. Also, some areas are small and fragile, and could easily break off with the support material. Auto is 'dumb' and places supports in some places where it is not needed.

Grids are easy enough to remove with needle nose pliers using a twisting motion. It just takes a bit of time. Grid is only 0.5mm thick.

The supports were created within the 3D CAD software (I use Autodesk Inventor Professional) before importing to the Slicer software. I might make a video on the topic of manual supports.

I haven't tried tree supports yet, I will look into that.

Yes, next week there will be a technical explanation of electronics, MOSFET, brushless motors, brushless ESC, Arduino, Solenoid, Microswitches etc. And maybe a video of it firing!

Thanks for commenting

PART 2 - 3D PRINTING

Now it's time to bring this Kang Tao into reality!

Slicer software used was PrusaSlicer

3D Printer used was Artillery Sidewinder X1 - 300x300x400mm build area.

Filament: PLA / Hotend 210°C / Bed 65°C

Besides a simple pencil holder, this is actually my first 3D printed project (a bit ambitious i know...)

So this 3D printer was purchased because of it's affordable price and rather large print area, making things easier.

Even with a large 300x300mm build area, the Kang Tao had to be split into multiple pieces to print. This was kept in mind during the CAD modelling process.

The first part to print is the 'main' part which houses critical components such as flywheel cage, mag, firing chamber and Arduino. This will be the base piece, where consecutive pieces will build onto it.

This finished part is another main part, which will house the remaining critical components such as the grip, trigger, solenoid and MOSFET.

17 hours later, this finished part looks something like this:

Fun Fact: Over 52 3D printed parts taking over 160 hours to print

Flipping it over, you can see the 'base plate'. This base plate was created so that the print stays stuck to the print bed, otherwise it would peel off mid-print and be ruined!

Also notice how the base plate is made up of multiple sections, so that removal with pliers is easier.

Beneath the base plate is a grid of manually designed support material, so that the printer does not print in mid air, and the material above will not collapse on a hollow section.

Auto-generated support material tends to put material everywhere, making it a nightmare to remove without damaging the part, and so support material was painstakingly designed manually.

Here it is hollowed out with most of the support material removed. You can catch a glimpse of the grid supports that once was.

You don't need to hollow this out if all you want is an inanimate object for cosplay purposes. However, because I want to be difficult and make it a functional Nerf Blaster, I needed somewhere to mount all the electronics.

Flywheel cage was printed in multiple parts, specifically to fit these brushless motors. (More on electronics in future post).

Here is a video of the 3D Printing time lapse, a further explanation and a teaser of the painted parts:

Next post will be...hmmm...further analysis of mechanic operations. How the mag release works, solenoid, flywheel cage etc.

Thank for reading, any questions leave a comment

Holy smokes that is incredibly detailed

Cheers!

I had to replicate the look

PLANNING - Physical CAD Drawings

Here I show you over 120 hours worth of CAD drawings used to bring this project to life. Program used: Autodesk Inventor Professional.

Gameplay trailers on Youtube were used for visual reference of the Kang Tao, as well as the official CDPR reference images for Cosplayers.

The Kang Tao started as a single line, then evolve into many complex shapes. Everything constrained with dimensions so that every part fits together precisely. Cant just 'eyeball' this stuff.

Multiple parts were made with the 3D printing process in mind. Each part was designed to be fastened to one another using M3 screws and threaded inserts.

It is designed to be split into two halves similar to a Nerf gun. Both halves have screws, as Nerf guns look a little weird and "toy like" with screws on only one side causing deep holes where the screws are.

Fun fact: There are over 115 components that make up this project (not including screws, inserts or cables)

All of the electronics (except battery) were housed in the right half (similar to nerf guns) for easy access. Battery located in a compartment towards top front. (Electronics tutorial in future post).

By far the most challenging aspect was to make the gun functional while also aesthetically accurate to the Kang Tao from the game.

To achieve the correct look, I purchased a 3D printer (Artillery Sidewinder X1) with a massive 300x300x400mm build area. (More details in upcoming 3D printing post)

To achieve the functionality similar to the Kang Tao from Cyberpunk 2077, this needed to have full auto fire mode.

For this, a flywheel cage with Brushless Motors was used in conjunction with a solenoid pusher. (More parts list details in a future post).

There is a 'window' on the Kang Tao that features a piston moving in a back and forth motion whilst firing. I HAD to simulate that somehow…

So I moved the solenoid towards the rear and added a shaft extension through the window that pushes the Nerf dart out of the mag and into the flywheels. It just...works!

Check out my video explaining in a bit more detail of how the parts were modelled and how they all fit together etc:

Next post will be about the 3D Printing Process.

And as always, suggestions and questions just leave a comment below.

You may be limited to image posts because you're a new user. Linking images from imgur/etc. is acceptable until you do get full permissions.

Thanks! It seems to have worked.

Onto typing the next post

Hey everyone, I am excited to present to you my latest and greatest creation - The 3D Printed Kang Tao functional Nerf gun from the upcoming video game Cyberpunk 2077

A screenshot from the gameplay trailer for reference:

I've always had a passion for building and creating things and sharing with those who have similar interests.

A teaser of the build:

I've made more progress than this so far, but let's start from the beginning.

This is going to be a comprehensive build log from planning to finish, so hopefully this gives you some ideas if you ever want to 3D print a scratch-built Nerf Gun of your own.

From Arduinos to coding, from Lipo's to Brushless motors, from MOSFETS to Solenoids, from CAD drafting to 3D printing - All will be revealed so stay tuned!

Next post will be about the planning stage where I show you CAD drawings, schematics etc.

Any questions or suggestions just ask below.

Edit: Re-uploaded images.