I really like all your work man, great pictures, explanations, and mods all around.

One thing I noticed with this one is that the pump looks like it's angled upward slightly. It might cause some interference with longer barrels, which you said you plan on doing. I'd recommend cutting the shell of the water gun at a slightly different angle then reattaching it to the DTB, or getting a different pump.

RECAP:

Twas a good time had by all. Thanks to Hippo(Brad?) and his brother(Brian?) again for letting me use their blasters after my SNAP broke. Those 2 -11s are pretty Effeminate.

It was nice meeting BrokenSVT and son(Greg and Austin?) and Kidflash(Ben?) for the first time. You guys do some good work with air guns.

I was talking to some guys about possibly having a control point type game, similar to the computer game Team Fortress 2, I'll try to make up something and bring it to the next war. Hopefully, it'll allow the full use of both the play ground and the woods area, and discourage camping. I noticed especially with the playground that there's just not a whole lot of room to move around, and you either go on the slide area or next to picnic area and take potshots.

Highlight of the day - When leaving Wendy's to go back after lunch, Deathdart2k(Logan?) stands in front of the glass door, steps aside, and proceeds to run into the glass pane directly to the left of the door, face first.

Is anyone bringing a core? I thought that was pretty fun the few times I've played it.

Rogue was the only one who made a write-up for the fury fire and he pulled all his mods from nerfhaven. If you do mod it, look at maverick mods for help because it's pretty much the same thing with a few more shots.

That's a pretty lame move, I didn't realize how much squabbling went on.

By the way, ahtanie made this writeup for a Furyfire 2k Modification. Although it's a little difficult, there's a lot of information about making the turret rear loading, and good pictures of the inside.
It's not like you even need someone to hold your hand through these things. Read through a couple maverick modifications or a couple nitefinder modifications and you can probably get a good idea of what you need to do. It's not like nerf created a fusion powered propulsion system here, these springers are all pretty similar.

Also Blue, I couldn't find the linked mod in either the 2k or furyfire sections of the mod directory, so it might be a good add.

First, can anyone recommend a good pair of gloves? I'm looking for something warm, but allowing for easy working of blasters/darts.

I recommend any sort of gloves marketed as running gloves. They're usually pretty thin and form fitting and have a tacky side for handling things. Champion brand running gloves were $15 at the Target at Lennox, which I'm assuming is the closest to you at OSU. They were also oddly labeled as texting gloves too, for the same thing.

Also, barring some sort of catastrophic meteorological event, I am a definite.

maybe for now, will update soon.

I could do really any of the December dates, but none of the January ones. Preferably 17th or 18th though.

It'll be nice to get the RSCBow out again.

This is a link to the Mass Effect sex scene scandal:


OH NO! The news reported on it and misrepresented facts, no one is allowed to sell it any more. Oh wait...
Chill out guys, Hasbro is going to do the same stuff they've always been doing, which is making as much money on plastic toys as possible.

Also some of you seem to forget that just because Hasbro is the only company allowed to use the term "Nerf" dart blaster, it doesn't mean that they are your only source of blasters. (Shout out to Lanard, Buzzbee, and your local Home Depot/PVC pipe brand)

Dangit, just saw this. I'm going to Minnesota for my other hobby which is currently taking up all my time, being in the OSUMB. Which means pretty much any Saturday until next year is out, sorry.

Easiest way would be to put a ball valve somewhere before the barrel in your setup. You could then dial down the air opening or flip it all the way open pretty easily.

(air system)=(valve)==[ barrel ]

Edit: Seeing some of the replies below, I still don't see the problem with a ball valve. It provides the "air cushion" you may desire when dialed down, while also allowing you to operate at full flow with a turn. It's adjustable without buying other parts or opening up the gun. It would take up less room than a dead space pipe. It would be cheaper and less assembly than pretty much anything else stated. You may be over thinking this.

Cool stuff. Besides, caffeine's profile page really wasn't very informative anyway. Except for his relationship with his wife.

This is really well done. I'm surprised you could fit so much stuff in there (hurr hurr hurr).

Are the buffer springs useful for adding to anything at all? I feel like a secondary really isn't needed but it would be a nice bonus.

Also, does the fact you took out a screw port affect the stability of the blaster?

Yeah, I don't bother ever clicking on links on writeups really. Usually its an indication that the person doing the modification will have terrible pictures as well.

I do find it pretty funny that you take the time to check the forum enough to post a response in less than 30 minutes, but aren't willing to take the time to copy and paste.

beaten to the punch

Nerfhaven now has it's own meme.


This is pretty cool. If you could hook one of these up to a minimized Titan, you could easily make yourself a compact, modular, war-worthy blaster. I would like to see a 4 or 5 way one of these for even more options in "selective fire."

Yeah, I figured since we're a sufficiently matured meta-community and all, with the social networking aspects of the open source web 2.0 connectivity gigabytes modem internet sounding words.

Anyways, thats good that the epoxy is stable enough to hold the thing, I couldn't tell what it was from the picture.

Also, does the thing turn 360 degrees, or only 180 back and forth?

3 WAY VALVE BARREL ADAPTER: THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN A BIG BLAST AND 3 WAY VALVE HAVE CH
FEAR THIS GUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Very nice find man, I like it a lot. My only concern is how wobbly the assembly is, but that can be easily remedied with more structure and PVC cement. Is the switch difficult to turn, and did you have to lubricate it at all?

To jump on the revolution bandwagon, as shown in my RSCBow write up, you can do away with the nylon spacer and help cup the rubber washer using a "belleville washer," as identified by Zorn. The funneled shape provides the space required to seat the nail in the trigger.

Hilarious chode darts are hilarious. I'd be concerned with them flipping over in your magazine when you get around to it, as even regular sized darts can easily flip in gravity fed clips without followers, which it looks like you are going for. Nice work on the case and setup though.

Very nice clean modification. Like others have said, a guide may make it easier to load darts. I was thinking you could go the traditional route of a half pipe of your barrel material, or perhaps trying some styrene sheet that Popatachi is so fond of, if you wanted to try to make a slanted piece. He did some pretty impressive fabrication using that stuff on his doomsayer.

As far as loading, it seems pretty logical to me. I'd shoot once, turn the turret a quarter turn and shoot again, then load all four.

Your painting write up was also more useful than some of the others I've read exclusively for painting. Nice work.

Edit: Maybe put some white accents on the black? It might help with the Green Lantern effect.

NO WAI!!! Please send me 1.5 inches of CPVC fo' FREE. It is clearly beyond my means to craft such an artifact.

Don't know how active I'll be, but might as well.

Won't be able to make this one. Playing for a wedding with an open bar. You gotta have priorities man.

Edit- I found the responses to this post pretty funny, as its pretty abundantly clear I'm not 21. And its a wedding reception. Either way, it doesn't really matter to this thread.

So I finally took the time to take a range test, as it is very nice outside today, and everyone else is still in church. 16 shots were fired with single bb stefans. I used a 12 in. CPVC barrel. The shots ranged from low 90's to low 80's as the 8 shot clip emptied. A couple darts veered off wildly and weren't counted. All in all I'm pretty happy.

I also changed out the PEX plunger rod for plain ol' CPVC. The PEX may have been lighter, but it also snapped on me 2 times and stuck out at a wierd angle when primed.

Finally I still haven't replaced the epoxy, but priming is still pretty simple. I just pull back the plunger rod with my left hand until it stops, then I press the trigger a little bit, and move the rod back a little more and let go of the trigger. It's pretty easy, I just have to keep my hand on the handle.

I like this a lot, but how did you make the "custom" bags and holders? Everything else is surprisingly easy, I'm surprised this hasn't been done before.

Sorry. With the way my schedule looks for next quarter, I'm probably only going to be able to come in the summer. Hopefully I will have a few more blasters working, and at least a pistol.

Thanks for the heads up Prince Valor.

I believe I should be available as that is during my spring break, but I will have to do some work on my blasters and make some darts to make them war ready. I haven't seen any in play, but I assume SNAPS are fair game? Mines in my signature if you want to check it out.

Put me down as a maybe, I'll let you know next week if I can make it.

Coop, I have a lightly modded at2k with a broken pump check valve. I will try to bring it if I show.

I tried Bob's back sealing idea. Seems to be holding up well, but it increases the strength needed to open the valve a LOT.

I don't know if its just the picture, but it looks like you're using a pretty strong spring in your tank. The smaller the coil size is, the higher the spring constant. I'd recommend something much weaker with less coils/inch, wire thickness, and a wider diameter if possible. It only has to press enough to seal for the first pump or two, then the rest of the work is done by the air pressure itself.

And why the threaded coupler?

The thing that I'm most impressed with, is the fact that you took the time to build it. This design was part of a concept thread a year ago or two, and everyone just bickered back and forth for 3 pages about whether the pullback rod in the back would seal or not. This is simple and effective, and I look forward to your revisions.

Here's an older design by NerfCrazy
And...
Aformentioned Bitch Thread. Galaxy613's design may work for a smaller, more war legal airtank

Nice, you seem to have these down to a science at this point.

Zorn: nesting everything inside the plunger tube is stronger, seals better, preserves the lines of the blaster for integrations, is lighter, and is significantly cheaper than using couplers. I also wanted to use universally available parts. I switched to an endcap for the back just because it is cheaper.

My only concern with this, and the reason I didn't do it on my homemade, is with durability. I don't get how using electrical tape and rubbery goop can be stronger than a designed to fit pvc fitting. I don't really know how much electrical tape you have to use to get a good fit, but I feel like there's always going to be a little wobble, especially with heavy CPVC barrels.

Also, have you given up on using PEX pipe for the plunger? It does get a little annoying because it moves around when the gun is primed.

Ok, that's what I figured, I suppose having a lot of semi auto shots and a passable range can be more useful than having a single long range shot. Perhaps I'll try with really thin foam and petg, if I ever buy some.

I really like the breech system, almost like an actual shotgun. This also is much more compact and air efficient than an RSCB, which decreases in range as the clip empties. Have you tried this system with tighter fitting darts such as mega stefans? I'm curious to see how well this would translate to homemade darts.

Nice mod. But it seems like a pain to have to drill out foam. Couldn't you just use a stock dart since it already has a hole in it? This way, the hole for the straw would be in the direct center every time. If it needs to be thicker, then electrical tape could be wrapped around the dart before it's placed in.

As far as the performance increase, LotusNerf was on the right track.

Using the equations P1V1 = P2V2, it shows that the pressure will increase as the volume is decreased. Say the plunger, unmodded, will generate 10psi and the volume of it is 2in^3. By placing the straw in, let's say that the volume is cut in half, which would be 1in^3. Using the above formula, the new pressure generated would be double that of what originally was created. This means that the smaller the volume, the higher the pressure is going to be. Of course, there is a spot where this will do no good and actually hurt performance, but that's gonna be based on barrel friction, dart weight, surface area, etc.

Your equations are correct. That is all though. The false assumption you are making is that the plunger will move at the same speed no matter what size the opening is, which is untrue because the spring force is unaffected by the opening. A smaller hole = less airflow/second = slower plunger movement. This pretty much cancels out any pressure gains you claim.

Nice work. I can't tell if its just the refraction of the poly carb plates, but it looks to me like the screw attaching the lever is bending outward from all the strain. Probably a bad sign.

2-3-15 (2 Hits to Die)
When a player is hit by a dart or barrel-tapped, they do not lose a life, but instead begin a 15-second countdown, during which they can still shoot and be shot at. If the player is hit again during the countdown, they lose a life and must remove themselves from the game for 15 seconds. If they finish the countdown without being shot again, they're good as new.

LARP Rules
When a player is hit by a projectile, they lose a number of lives that depends on the type of projectile. Micro darts always take away fewer lives than other projectiles. Example values:
Micro Dart - 1 Life
Mega Dart, Mongo, Ball - 2 Lives
Missile, Arrow, Marshmallow, Chicken McNugget - 3 Lives

Restricted Ammo
Long-range blasters without multiple barrels may not use Micro Stefans.
Sample list of applicable blasters: PAS, 4B and variants, AT2K, AT3K, SM5K, +Bow, Xbow, RFSG, L+L, Maximizer, MaxShot, Titan

Modified Barrel Taps
When a player is barrel-tapped, they must count in but do not lose a life.

I like the first one as well, kinda like a COD thing. May be hard to enforce.

The hardest thing about the LARP Rules is the enforcement of micros versus mega darts. While running around getting hit, no one will stop to look and see the diameter of the dart lying on the ground.

As mentioned before, there will be issues with the definition of "long range" guns.

Won't that encourage barrel tapping AND shooting from point blank range? Or smacking someone twice? This is the only one that seems like a bad idea.

Hmm, yea I see finishing washers mentioned in Carbon's SNAP writeup. But finishing washers are meant to look pretty and help countersink screw heads. Belleville washers act in a similar fashion to lock washers, in using shear forces to pretense screws and prevent dislodging from vibration, which is also why they're available in larger sizes.

So I guess I should thank minsc for the find. Prefabricated parts turned to a new purpose is what homemades is about.

Thanks for the compliment. It was in my random parts bin, and I figured it would be perfect for the application, but I didn't know what it was called.

I was considering making a large SNAP with a foot stirrup mounted to the front of it, so I could cock the gun medieval-crossbow style, and then attach my loaded barrel to the coupler. If you have trouble cocking your rifle, maybe you should do some research and plan it out.

Sounds like a good idea, and it's obviously feasible. I don't have trouble cocking my gun though, its just the handle. My only concern is that you could have an extremely powerful single shot, like a medieval crossbow, but also have to put it down to slowly reload, like a medieval crossbow.

Sweet blaster. I might just make one of these and find a use for a Furyfire handle.

Maybe you should redo that handle though. Looks un-comfy. One of my SNAPs has a handle like this:
_______

/ /\ / / \ ^ / / \ / Front Face /______/ \ Sides <--+--> \ \ \ _ / \______\/\ \/\ \/ Rear Face \ _____\ \ | | \ |_____| \ \ \ / \ \ / \ \ / \ \ / \ \ / \_____\/

DAMN ASCII EXPLANATIONS. THEY DON'T WORK.

I think I will in the future, I only lightly sanded and beveled the edges, so its still essentially a rectangle. It does start to be uncomfortable after priming the gun for a while, as the spring is so powerful.

Nice system overall. I don't know the war legal issues with the whole compressor thing, but I personally would be okay with a lower power air gun utilizing it, (big salvo or at2k or the like.) You may have to watch the pressure to make sure it doesn't get dangerously high too quickly though.

By the way nice Youtube channel banner. I'm really glad you bring me the "lastest" in Nerf news, mods and wars. And its all Ice-y with a sultry picture of you as well.

Nice! Kow much weight does the rscb add?

Not too much, It also makes a great sight as its pretty much a straight line 3 feet long. Keep in mind that at most this thing maybe wieghs 2 pounds, so a little extra wieght for the ROF is a worthwhile tradeoff.

The crayola barrel in the stock is a nice solution for keeping the darts from falling out - I may have to steal that idea.

Thanks for the compliment. Alternatively, you could also use a section of CPVC, or whatever barrel material is on the opposite end of the RSCB.

My favorite part. Making and attaching a PVC covering to prevent overpull of the clothespin is the last truly annoying and fiddly part, as far as I'm concerned. This is quick, easy, and effective (my favorite combination). Nice job.

Thanks for the compliments. Originally I had planned for a PVC covering for aesthetic reasons, but I couldn't do it because of the rubber bands keeping the whole thing together.

I like it. My only suggestion would be to nest a reducing bushing or coupler directly in the front of the pressure chamber, a la the Plusbow, rather than using the 1 1/2" coupler. Done properly, this will improve the lines of the gun, the life of the plunger head, the weight, the seal, and the cost.

Originally I thought about doing that, but I couldn't find a bushing that was close. A 1" bushing is just a tad too big, and a 3/4" bushing would require a lot of tape or epoxy to bridge the gap. As far as wieght, seal, and cost, the wieght isn't too big of a concern, the seal with correct fittings is probably the best its going to be, and the cost is about 50 cents. Also because I made the plunger tube too long, the plunger head never hits anything, it stops when the handle hits the bushing in the back.

I've been toying with the idea of cutting my own sealing washers for probably a year or more. Props on making it work. And I had guessed that it would be possible to easily upsize my plunger head to fit the tube. Glad it worked (although I would recommend you add the epoxy putty ramp to prevent overdraw and washer damage). And while I coudn't care less about RSCBs, I do kind of want to make a SNAP with 1 1/2" pvc now, even though my setups are borderline overpowered as it is...

Yeah, I looked for 1 1/2 in. washers, but this was a pleasant surprise. It should be available at any Lowes in the plumbing section. And why stop at 1 1/2? I've seen some 2" SNAPs on this site, but there's really no limit to how big your cross section can be, once you find a sturdy material for the catchplate. A concept I've had in my head for the longest time is a blaster where the plunger system is disk shaped, or wider in diameter than it is long, for a medium air output at a super fast rate.

As for the epoxy, I'm starting to think I have some bad batches or something. The putty is still moldable and rips apart when it comes in contact with the firing pin. If anyone has a good suggestion for putty, let me know. I'm using the home depot brand Plumber's Putty that comes in a clear tube.

I present to you the RSCBow. It’s basically a SNAP or SNAP bow design scaled up to 1 ½ in. PVC, with 2 eight shot RSCB sections made into nice stock. I used ideas from Carbon’s original SNAP mk2 design and wood grip design, Rork’s SNAP bow mk4 design and superlative head, and the RSCB guys.


Materials Needed:
1 12” Length of 1 ½ in. PVC (can be shortened to 11” without any effects)
2 1 ½ in. by ½ in. PVC Bushings
2 1 ½ in. couplers
1 ½ in. PVC ball valve
2 ½ in. CPVC tees
1 ½ in. CPVC elbow
1 ½ in. PVC coupler
1 ½ in. PVC tee
1 ½ in. PVC endcap.
1 12 in. length of ¼ in. PEX pipe
1 +bow spring
1 clothespin, zipties, nail, all the stuff you need to make a clothespin trigger
1 1 ½ in. washer
1 rubber sheet
1 CPVC endcap
1 Belleville washer
Screws
½ in. PVC
½ in. CPVC
Wood

Part 1. RSCB stock. This is probably the easiest and in my opinion the most useful part of this gun, as it can be used in virtually any nerf gun with enough power.



To make one of these for darts that fit CPVC, I’ve found the best way is to use CPVC fittings for the T section of the RSCB (the elbow and tee). Then, I use a ½ in. PVC couplers lightly sanded/reamed out and shove the CPVC fittings tightly into PVC coupler. I’ve found that ½ in. CPVC fittings are only slightly larger in diameter than ½ in. PVC, and will usually fit into ½ in. PVC fittings with a little force. The CPVC tee is reamed out completely on the side facing the PVC, and the CPVC barrel I use on the other side is reamed out completely as well. See below:



I personally believe this is the most efficient RSCB setup in terms of dead space, and the smooth transitions due to the reaming have almost never given me a double fire on any setup I’ve used, including big blasts.

The rest of the RSCB stock is made of 2 sections of PVC with a ball valve in between. I made mine able to hold eight 1 ½ in. stefans, so about12 in. long each. You can make it as long or as short as you want, as long as the one closer to the air supply holds equal or more darts, or else the ball valve will eat your darts. The way it works is you fire all eight stefans with the ball valve closed, then open the ball valve and shake until the darts fall into the next section. Once you close the ball valve again, you can reload the back at any time.

The stock part is shown below:



I shoved a crayola marker barrel wrapped in tape into the pvc section. This allows for easy loading, as darts can be loaded in but won’t fall out because they fit snugly in the marker area. The PVC tee is cut down for comfort and a short section of PVC with an endcap was used for the stock. The whole setup is very stable and if you cut it to the right length, very comfortable.

Part 2. Plunger rod assembly

This is very similar to the setup Rork created in his last SNAP bow design, using ¼ in. PEX pipe for lightness and cheapness, and a similar plunger head to his superlative plunger head design.



I found the rubber sheet in the plumbing section of Lowes for about 2 bucks. It comes in 2 different thicknesses, so I chose the thicker one; I think it was like 1/8th in. or something. Basically, it allows you to cut custom rubber washers of any size and shape you need, which was great because I couldn’t find 1 ½ in. rubber washers anywhere.

I traced the inside of the 1 ½ in. PVC coupler and cut it out using scissors. This turned out to be a little too big, so I trimmed it down carefully using a utility knife until it fit snugly into 1 ½ in. PVC with a concave shape and was airtight. Patience is key here; you don’t want jagged edges, or for it to be too small or else it’ll be useless.



The order for the plunger head goes top to bottom from left to right. I ended up using a different bolt and wing nut, but basically it was the same. First I centered and drilled a hole in the CPVC cap for the bolt. Then, I roughed up the surface of the cap and superglued the flat washer to it. Make sure you carefully superglue the concave washer to the top of the flat washer, using superglue liberally around the seams. Then poke a hole through the rubber washer, and bolt everything together. The setup is shown below.



The next step is to make an epoxy putty ramp against the flat washer to allow the trigger to smoothly catch.
When you are finished, put a short stub of CPVC in the endcap and drill a tiny hole through the endcap, the CPVC and the PEX at the same time. I wrapped e tape around the PEX until it was snug in the CPVC. Now your plunger head is complete.



The pullback handle was made from a CPVC tee, CPVC, a short screw and gratuitous amounts of epoxy putty.

Part 3. Rest of SNAP and Carbon style wood grip

The main plunger tube in this gun was 12 in. long, but looking back you could definitely get away with 11 in. or maybe even 10, as the spring is only 11 in. long, and there is extra length from the coupler and bushing in the back.

Both the 1 ½ in. couplers in the front and back were cut down on one side about halfway from the edge to the middle. In the back coupler, this serves to allow room for the air hole on the bushing while saving space. The air hole in the bushing was cut using a ½ in. spade bit. For the front, the 1 ½ in. to ½ in. bushing was also cut down to reduce dead space. The part was cut to about where the flat section begins.

Fit the back coupler and the bushing together, then drill pilot holes for screws through both parts. I did three spaced equally around the part.

Now for the handle, this gets a little tricky. In Carbon’s original design, a section was cut out of the coupler to allow it to snap on, but because in this design the coupler is actually used as a coupler, I chose to leave it whole. Unfortunately, this meant drilling and screwing the handle on with screws at a slight angle.



I tried to counter sink the screws as much as possible, but they still stuck out and made fitting the bushing and plunger tube on impossible. I dremeled a small groove into the bushing and plunger tube for the screw head, which worked like a charm. This also helps align the screw holes when you disassemble and reassemble the gun.



Assemble the RSCBow and it is almost completed. Make sure to put the rear bushing and spring on the plunger rod before you screw on the plunger head. The next part is to add a clothespin trigger, which you can read about in Carbon’s guide to SNAP’s. The plastic clothespin I used was unfortunately pretty flimsy, and would nearly fly apart after being fired, so it is currently held together with rubber bands, which may be ugly, but work. In addition, to prevent said destruction, I put a block of wood behind the trigger to limit the trigger pull length, which prevents the pin from being pulled completely out and exploding.



Attach the RSCB stock to the RSCBow by forcing the CPVC elbow into the front bushing. This is the most efficient and compact way to attach it, and it is pretty sturdy due to the CPVC being slightly larger than ½ in. PVC. An optional reinforcement would be to take a metal strip and secure the ball valve to the rear coupler with screws, which I haven’t done but will in the near future.

Now you to can make your very own RSCBow. For those of you scared to make homemades, I have to say this was my first one, and it was a lot easier than I expected it to be. It’s very convenient to be able to make something exactly to your needs. I haven’t tested ranges, but I’d assume due to the extra plunger volume and increased deadspace from the RSCB stock, it gets similar ranges to SNAP bows and the like. Right now all I have is an 8 in. cpvc barrel on the end, but I may go longer.

Thanks for reading guys. QCF’s?

Edit-Pictures weren't right.

Almost done, waiting on my shipment of +bow springs before working on the trigger. Was surprisingly very easy to build.