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#363649 Infinus

Posted by Codeman on 22 January 2019 - 12:28 PM in Modifications

I have an infinus that Im having issues with. I threw instructions of course. I wired in parallel to the stock battery a xt60 plug to run a 4 cell sub c NiCd pack and ran that on its own. So the voltage is 5.3ish off charger. I tried the blaster and seemed to fire ok maybe a little less boggy then stock. Now the issue is Ill use auto load feature and it will load a few and then stop. No led light push dart load switch wont start feeder flywheels wont rev. It wont cycle when you remove drum. You open and close jam door and it cycles and you can fire. Then same thing load a few and shut down. I then tried on alkaline without nicd and worked fine at 6.1v. So Im wondering if anyone knows does the blaster shit down with low voltage since 4 alkaline would likely never get much below 5v and thats why it works a few and quits loading. Firing with a loaded clip works fine on nicd just loading mech



#363628 Understanding batteries?

Posted by Codeman on 07 January 2019 - 07:03 AM in Modifications

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

I ended up remembering I had an old drill laying around with the old NICD battery packs.  So I opened it up and it had some 1300 mAH sub c nicd cells.  So i decided to take it apart and solder together 5 cells to stick with stock voltage.  On my rapid strike I wired in a connector and man that thing rips.  Off the charger the battery is 6.6v or so and it doesn't slow down at all even when emptying a 30rd drum.  Sometimes it jams and just will pull through which is not so good but doesn't slow flywheels at all really.  I am really happy.  It works well.  I also tried it in my stock infinius by removing the batteries and putting some adapters from D to AA in there that I soldered on some leads on the internal posts so the battery converters went in place of batteries and had leads so I could hook the pack up.  This was all stock and it made a decent improvement.  This is what I was looking for it doesn't have the shoot down that normally happens on full auto.  Thanks for all the help.  These are not as crazy as the other builds but for my situation it works awesome.  And the battery pack seems to have fair life.  I have fired 4 30rd drums, 10-18 round mags and still going strong.  Now to find a good 6v charger which I talked with a local hobby RC store and they said they have one that works with lipo, nimh, nicd and multiple voltages so would allow me to buy one charger and if I upgrade down the road it will work for that and anything else I get.

 

Thanks

 

EDIT: Last night I still thought the gun fired a bit hard for inside after some more testing and decided to try dropping a cell to 4 cells.  Put me a little over 5v fresh off charer.  Tried that and blasters fire good, fire a small amount harder than stock.  Does bog some on the infinus that is all stock inside in long full auto bursts but doesn't shoot down near as bad.  Found a sweet charger that charges to my voltage and any kind of battery and will cycle discharge.  So thinking I am going to go with this route.  Plus the 4 cell packs fit in stock battery slots and I am going to make some simple connections so I can swap between regular alkalines or these rechargeable packs that are homemade.  I think better/larger and newer cells might reduce shoot down and also removing maybe the PTC on the infinus might help but that beast don't want to tear into since it is so complicated.  My rapidstrike doesn't fire down just fires a little harder than stock, which no chrono but just from shooting it is a small improvement but not too much.  I may post some pics if I ever get the cool battery trays done.




#363615 Understanding batteries?

Posted by Codeman on 03 January 2019 - 01:06 PM in Modifications

Ok.

 

So many decisions.  So my AA batteries didn't pan out tried them in my demolisher and ECS12 and decreased performance noticeably from even regular alkalines.  So fortunately I now have some AA rechargeables to use around the house.

 

I contemplated taking the camera tray wiring in series and add a 5th battery rechargeable to get me to the stock 6v and use 3 dummies which would not be a problem but that would not be possible on the demolisher without adding an external battery tray.

 

So now I am back to a pack.

 

After seeing your guys thoughts I am kind of thinking a 7.2v sub c pack around 3000mah which should suffice.  The only thing I worry is that this pack will obviously supply me with more than enough current for stock motors but with the increased current due to my rewires and the better battery I worry the blasters will shoot too hard for kids and indoors.  I like the NIMH pack because I was just going to make a box that I can velcro or zip tie to the blasters since they are relatively safe batteries.  How much of an increase in FPS would I see on the demolisher, rapidstrike, and ecs 12 with a 7.2v sub c pack?  I have upgraded all the wiring to 16 or 18awg in the semi's and left stock switch for rev and stock motors but removed clip switches and jam door switches and all the stuff from the motors and any PTCs.  

 

Also I have an infinius that I bought would the 7.2v destroy the loader mechanism stuff?  I don't want to mess with the internals on that blaster because after looking online it looks super super complicated and I may just remove the stuff off the motor but I don't want to burn out the internals using a better battery.

 

Thanks




#363608 Understanding batteries?

Posted by Codeman on 02 January 2019 - 05:35 PM in Modifications

What about something like this Tenergy NiMH Receiver RX Battery with Hitec Connectors 6V 2000mAh High Capacity Rechargeable Battery Pack for RC Airplanes/RC Aircrafts and More https://www.amazon.c...i_GXtlCbA1SHYHE



#363606 Understanding batteries?

Posted by Codeman on 02 January 2019 - 02:50 PM in Modifications

Yeah I don't want to mess with lithium batteries due to my children using the blasters.  I will maybe mess around with adding aa (cell) rechargeable NIMH batteries if 4 is not enough.  I was just curious because I see some NiMH say sub c so that just means more available current due to the larger cells.  I know Lipos use the c rating which is nice but NiMH don't use any rating like that that I have seen.  

 

And yes all of my blasters are stock motors, stocks switches, not wanting to burn too much up.  I just removed some of the resistance by using larger wire, removing some safeties, and removing as many circuit boards as possible and more direct wire the blasters.  And I did notice some slight improvements in the blasters.  

 

Thanks for the help, I will maybe just do something similar and make a RC style pack just using my rechargeable AA batteries.  I am running energizer ones that are rated at I think 2100mAH and have high reviews and they seem to be pretty decent.  




#363603 Understanding batteries?

Posted by Codeman on 02 January 2019 - 10:54 AM in Modifications

Ok so I need some help on batteries?

 

I have watched a ton of videos on modding nerf blasters and done a few up.  I have yet to take the plunge into a battery pack, but I have rewired a bunch with heavier wire and removed the PTCs, the unecessary safeties and the junk off the motors.  This made a bit of a difference on performance.  Now I noticed my rapid strike fires way better after bypassing the limited revup that was limited to get full rev now on the rev trigger.

 

So I am trying to work on figuring out some battery options.  I don't need or want to go lipo.  I thought a nimh pack but still 7.2v is going to bump up performance some and I play with my kids inside and don't want them to not want to play any more.  I am basically sick of buying batteries.  So then I thought rechargeable batteries but I tried a few and it worked ok, there was a slight performance drop with the lower voltage vs alkalines.  I did just get some D cell adapters that allow you to use two AA in parallel for more capacity.  I might try this.  Then I got to looking at packs.  I found some 6v packs but most are rated at 2000mAH and are simply 5 AA cells fused together.  I could easily adapt something similar in the larger battery trays but am wondering will a simple pack offer more true amps of discharge than running 5 AA rechargables which is in sense the same as the pack except the added resistance of the springs in the holders.  Or am I missing something and a 2000mAH 5 cell AA pack will  offer more true amps than regular good quality 2000+mAH rechargeable AAs.  I don't want to buy a pack and have it be the same as I have now.  

 

I did try a 9.4 or 9.6v pack I had and that ramped up the guns but again I don't want to use that because I don't want to make my kids not want to play and I figured by the time I used rectifying diodes to drop my voltage down I could just as well get a different pack or use other batteries.

 

 




#363588 Selectable voltage

Posted by Codeman on 27 December 2018 - 08:16 AM in Modifications

Thanks for the help. I was having issues with my rapidstrike and found the stock c batteries were weak. Put new ones in and it rips compared to stock after safeties and ptc and motor board removal and wiring with 16awg. I got some rechargeable aa batteries I might try with spacers since this thing must eat batteries and leave blaster alone until my kids get a bit bigger then maybe upgrade to a bigger pack and better switches. Nice part is the wiring is done just need a battery connector and mount a rev switch and wire. So Im hoping the rechargeable aa batteries offer the same performance even if they die faster I can recharge. The blaster is not near LiPo performance but for me it performs awesome for indoor home battles especially when new batteries. I couldnt figure out why pusher kept sticking and turns out low batteries. Haha. It would jam a dart and stick. And as soon as I put new battery in the pusher retracted before getting tray even screwed in.

Thanks for the help.



#363583 Selectable voltage

Posted by Codeman on 25 December 2018 - 01:51 PM in Modifications

Ok what should I watch for as issues or just monitor voltage. Both guns are stock motors. The only changes are the thermal resistors removed and wired with 16awg wire and the boards removed and flywheels wired direct. I am thinking run stock switches and if they fail then upgrade the flywheel rev switches.



#363578 Selectable voltage

Posted by Codeman on 25 December 2018 - 07:42 AM in Modifications

Ok so another question.

I just got a rc car that came with two nicd battery packs that are like 9.6v I think. It came with two batteries so Im contemplating trying those batteries in my rapidstrike and an ecs12 I rewired as well. They are running stock switches until the switches burn up and then stock motors. I am wondering is there an easy way to step down voltage to say that 7.4v range while maintaining my mAH currents through the blasters? I just dont need to overvolt too much and dont want the insane rof on the rapidstrike just want the blasters to not bog the flywheels when you shoot and get a bit more FPS out of them. I play with kids so nothing crazy. And I was thinking this would be awesome since I have the batteries and use them in something else as well.

Thanks for the help



#363576 More current or more voltage.

Posted by Codeman on 24 December 2018 - 08:12 AM in Modifications

I just finished rewiring an ecs12. I did 16awg and removed all the safeties and the circuit boards from the motors and the small trace circuit board in the blaster. Now I just hooked up the battery pack for the camera after disconnecting it from the camera that I never used. I hooked the other pack up in series and used 3 dummy aa batteries to up my voltage to roughly 7v using alkaline batteries. Now Im second guessing would it be better to wire the other pack in parallel to double the mAH capacity of the blaster and hopefully reduce the motor drop off when shooting? I was thinking 8aa batteries would offer decent mAH for a semi auto blaster. Just dont know if its worth it to open the blaster back up and redo the wiring to the battery packs. I know a LiPo would be better but dont need the highest performance just looking for a bit more and dont want to mess with LiPo dont like the risk of battery explosion and stuff if not wired right and dont have the proper safeties when my kids use these guns. Just looking to get a bit more umph out of the stocking blaster.



#363565 Selectable voltage

Posted by Codeman on 20 December 2018 - 06:56 AM in Modifications

Ok that makes sense. I was just thinking of the stock blaster but I never thought the reason the stock blaster fires weak is there is not enough current to keep the motors turning how the blaster bogs when firing. So I guess the resister would eat a little current but probably not help as much.



#363561 Selectable voltage

Posted by Codeman on 19 December 2018 - 01:12 PM in Modifications

Hi guys,

 

I am new here and read through the awesome article on here about modding a rapidstrike.  I have recently gotten back into nerf which I used to love as a kid now being 27yrs old and have 2 daughters I recently got back into it and am finding it more fun as an adult!  I recently acquired a awesome deal on a bunch of used blasters and decided to mod at least one and see how it goes.  I have a rapid strike that I removed the jam door switch and the mag switch from.  I just recently found the dart zone article that goes into detail on how to rewire with heavier wire, and a heavier switch utilizing the stock motors.  I would like to do this but see two issues.  One being I love the modded gun for speed and power but sometimes I would like to dial it back for when playing inside with the kids vs outside at extended ranges.  My thought was maybe utilize all the mods he does minus the lipo and see where I am with the stock c batteries but I am not sure if I want to go through all that work and have it slightly better vs awesome running a lipo.  So my next thought was ask on here if anyone has ever added almost a selector switch that when flipped into one position used a resistor to knock down current to the blaster and reduce some of the performance so you could slide the rocker to one position and have a resistor wired in with the battery voltage to knock down your voltage and current some to slow down the motors.  If so would someone point me in the right direction or if anyone knows what size resistor I would need to accomplish near stock performance with those mods I would appreciate it.

 

Thanks