Going to be out of town on the 25th but I will definitely try to make it to the next one.
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There have been 304 items by flashflint (Search limited from 08-October 92)
A few months back, I saw a sold eBay lot of Nerf stuff, and one of these was in it. I thought at first it was sun-damaged, but the color was too even... I thought I was crazy, it's awesome that you found it!
Where did you find this one?
That was my first thought too but because of the parts that are the same color as each other, I'm pretty sure it came this way. Also one of the decorative tubes has a chunk cracked out and the color is all the way through. I picked this one up at a salvation army in south east michigan.
T-Pain might even be available.
His agent directed us to Childish Gambino instead. Fits better with the "hipster" vibe the plaid shirts have.
Anyways, the HAAP: High Airflow Automatic Plunger.
The video is set to private.
Instead of making a cap gun fire nerf darts, I've tried using a confetti popper gun such as this. (Except mine was single shot, but fired the same type of shells.)
The green cylinder in the video has six tight shells that has a single ring cap placed at the back. They can fit 1.5" stefans (I used CDTD's) and fire them up to at least 40'.
After I tried this out, I was amazed that it actually worked! When I went to go retrieve the dart, however, I found it burnt at the back. The whole experience was fun nonetheless.
I live in Canada and the only place I know that carries that type of confetti popper gun is Gags and Giggles. You might find it in a dollar store though, which is where I found my single shot "popper".
All I'm saying is that confetti poppers are more practical to use than cap guns when it comes to converting them to shoot Nerf darts, from my experience.
I have been trying to find an online source for those. When you look at the back of the cylinders, is there a hole between each "cap hole" that is blocked by the piece of plastic that links each cap together?
No they won't. Almost all laser-cutting service shops are unwilling to cut polycarbonate because it will require a toxic fume handling system.
they may be able to do polycarbonate since you can request custom jobs.
I was afraid of that, but couldn't remember if polycarbonate was one of the toxic ones. Thanks.
Bladder has 4 layers of inner tubes over it.
Close up of important part.
The bladder runs to the push button valve from the MS trigger, which runs through a hornet check valve and to a 2K tank. It takes about 25 pumps and can get about 15 shots off of a bladder full. It works fantastically with a rscb or hopper clip. Pm me any questions.
Don't fuck with springs, beyond removing rust from them. We should all know, Bob, that rapidly cooling a metal, especially in a fluid besides oil, is a bad idea to begin with, not only hardening the metal but oxidizing it also.
Oil still hardens it, it actually hardens it more. And can still cause oxidation, although not as much.
I gave up on mine quite some time ago. I have not done so yet, but my plan was to junk the parts, and use the pump and a few other parts separately. I have at least one part that yours seems to lack - a vinyl weight band that goes near the head of the balloon for aerodynamic stability. If you find a balloon that seems suitable, you can email me for details. Without it, you can probably expect the balloon to act like an even bigger fin than the ones in the back, putting the whole rocket into an immediate spin reminiscent of the most spectacular of NASA launch failures.
Yah, I just tried to launch it without a body and it was a spectacular failure. I plan to make a body of some sort from scratch, I can't help but wonder if it NEEDS to be 6 feet long...
It is marked as Hasbro 2003 and it is huge. I believe that it is supposed to have a large inflatable body, which I do not have, but here is the base of the rocket next to a NF.
Here are the parts as far as I can tell. I will be cracking it open soon and will post pictures when I have them. I just thought I would get it up here sooner rather than later.
The right hand leg has an air/water thank on it, the other two legs have leveling screws on them. The upper left leg has a plastic dome on it with a ball barring that engages a safety when it is level. In the center top of the picture you can see the squeeze bulb that operates as a trigger. Something I did not get a picture of is that there is a safety mechanism in the top of the "rocket" where the inflatable top should be. I have gotten it to dry fire, and it is terrifying.
Hi I just picked up my raider and want to take out the AR but don't have access to a drill or dremel, what other ways are there to take it out other then loosening the glue around the seal? I'm on a limited budject as a college student and most people I know don't have a drill at hand. I tried popping it out with a screwdriver but I cant seem to hit that thing hard enough to give.
Open the window and poke the AR out with a heated metal rod. It may take a few times to bore it out but works reasonably well aside from the toxic fumes.