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There have been 51 items by Knud-Hansen (Search limited from 05-February 94)
Photobucket is failing on me, so I apologize for having to post a link.
We actually were challenged by Upitt last semester, and they drove 6 hours to play us. It was about 70 people and could not have been more Effeminate.
So yes, whether you are in high school or college, BE ACTIVE!
There are no screws running through those posts but there are female parts that fit over those posts, which keeps them from bending and breaking. I use this thing practically every Saturday for CTF at my school and have had no problems with it. The bi-pod is, for the most part, cosmetic. It is nice to have a way to stand it up though when I'm not using it. I have never used it to steady my shot though, and don't see my self ever needing too.
I used this trigger system, mainly to try something new and just see what would happen. It is more complicated then it needs to be, but it has a nice pull and would be easy to fix/replace in the event that it breaks. Not to mention it was able to help out Daecu with his project.
RoF is more important then range in zombies, best advise i can give you.
Splitlip: I put in 2 pumps per shot. I could get away with 3 but I have already torn up a tank by over pumping, and I want this to last.
I do realize that there is no actual pulley involved in the trigger mech, but I did not think it was necessary to put one in when I could just weave the string in and out of the pegs already in the maverick shell. The string from the doubleshot is really strong stuff and is used to that kind of friction so I have no worries of it breaking anytime soon, if it does then its easy to fix.
Maverick frame and trigger
At3k air tank
18 inch 3/4 cpvc
1inch pvc "silencer"
strong string (used string from double shot)
a really good dremel with sander and disc bits
I bring you.. my beauty
The pump is guided by the barrel, using a pvc T coupler (i think it was the 1inch size) and is lined by felt to make pumping smooth.
you can see that the base of the pump is securely fastened to the middle of the maverick, as opposed to the bottom which runs the slight risk of the pump breaking off the gun from pushing to hard. Also, the breech is visible. Its nothing fancy, just cut a hole in some 17/32 brass and put a short piece of 9/16 brass over that, as a cover. Epoxy a Short nail to that and there you are.
Here, we have 6 ammo holders made of 1/2 cpvc. These are attached to the stock, which is a combination of 3/4 cpvc and couplers that are glued in, using a variety of adhesives.
A shot of the Ls bi-pod folded up. It works amazing well for this gun and serves a much greater purpose then what it did on the longshot its self.
You can see where the At3k tank's valve comes out of the maverick here, its the little orange piece that the hose attaches to.
A quick shot to show the pump extended. This was by accident, but the "silencer" stops the pump from coming all the way out, yet still get a full pump of air in.
The reason I used 3/4 cpvc to house my brass barrel is because of how perfectly the cpvc fits into that orange barrel piece on the maverick, which does an excellent job of keeping my barrel straight and secure.
Yes, I opened it back up just for you all! the trigger system was inspired by my dad actually, because he was talking about pulley systems, and that sounded a lot more simple then some other ideas i had going through my head.
I carved a divot for the string to sit in on the trigger and knotted it outside of a small hole i drilled in the bottom of the trigger. The string then goes around 2 pegs that are already in the maverick and ties onto the air tank pin. You have to make sure that the string you use DOES NOT STRETCH at all or it won't work because of the air pressure. It is also important to make string very taught and put in a strong combination of knots on the pin. I slipped a small spring between the knot and plastic piece on the pin, and then hot glued it to make it stiff, which helps (kind of like the pic pen mod). To make sure the pin returns to its original position after firing, I threw a rubber band on there to push it back, the picture says enough for that part.
just a closer look at the internals for ya.
Alright and there you have it. I started this project at the beginning of summer and literally finished it yesterday. It was completed earlier but I had used the Sm3k air tank and that eventually exploded and set me back, until I bough a At3k off of badger.
No official ranges yet but I can easily say I can hit 100 flat by shooting it down my dorm hallway, but I will try to get those to you soon.
Compliments? Flames? Comments at all really. I hope you all enjoy!!
OH and if you play Goucher CTF, you better watch out. You have been warned mwahahhaa
You will get way more distance out of a singled Titan, but those are only good for losing, and thats even if the nerf war allows you to use it. Its not a good primary mainly because of how long it takes to prime and the fact that you have to load each dart.
I don't understand how you followed my mod.
In my modification the barrel was in the original barrel.
You have a coupler? Is that coupler there just to guide an incredibly long barrel or is there a shit ton of dead space behind your coupler?
By the way, Nice vascularity.
I haven't posted that many write ups because I have been very busy lately.
The modifications continue, the write ups have just slowed down.
I'll catch up on them sooner or later.
Yea that was a slight difference, I do have cpvc going down the whole length of the bow like what you did, but i failed to put in that piece of wire on the back of it to keep the darts from going into the plunger tube, so now i just put barrels on it, which seemed to have given me similar results as to yours. I did not realize how much that plunger tube sucks down the dart.
Thanks a lot everyone for the compliments!
I used FA24's write up to guide me through the barrel replacement, AR removal, and increasing the seal of the O-ring.
What I did differently however, is keep the actual bow parts on, so I had more options for bungee placement. I also left them on just for show, a much more intimidating look. As you can see, there are 3 cpvc ammo holders on each arm, gorilla glued on, and not going anywhere. Instead of bungees I managed to find different grades of elastic tubing. The red tubing is pretty strong stuff and the green tubing is a little weaker. originally the stronger tubing was on the arms but it kept tearing them off, so i gorilla glued those on and went with the weaker tubing on the arms. the ruber bands are also helping keep the arms together, so if the glue does break, hopefully I won't get hit in the face with the arms.
I can't find FBR around where I live so I wrap e-tape around the holes on streamlines for my high power guns, which works really well.
121ft (might have something to do with the amount of etape on dart, investigating now)
Conditions: rounded to nearest foot, slight breeze blowing from the side, done on grass so the darts did not bounce, I used a tape measure to make 4 25ft increments, I left the tape measure on the ground to measure from 100ft-125ft.
Feel free to ask questions, criticize, compliment, whatever you feel is needed.
Oh and I've been having trouble with photobucket so let me know if the pics don't work out, I will do what I can.
wuts the follower thats slugs is talking about..all i did was cut the 2 mags in half..do u have to do anything to the thing thats pushes the dart up..nd the thing that pushes the dart up wont go all the way down..and wen it does...in wont go back up..help me
I know that you just got crap for this in another thread, but seriously, read the code of conduct and do not reply to a thread that is over a year old. if you have questions pm the creator of the thread.
all in all I would consider it a waste of magazines, more sense in making a double clip