Best thing I can think to start with would be the nite finder or the firestrike. Simple to mod and tinker with and capable of respectable ranges. Start with some barrel replacements and you can swap out for better springs and O-rings. If you have a dremel tool or a hacksaw you can do some shell minimization. If you want even more power it is one of the easiest blasters to do an extended plunger tube for as your skills develop.
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There have been 270 items by thedom21 (Search limited from 13-June 93)
Worker darts hurt less. I got shot by them with a caliburn and it wasn't thaaaaat bad (hurt less then a FVJ out of my LS).
EDIT: Although I'd recommend worker's darts, there is nothing wrong with the waffle darts. It's just that the consistency of the batch you buy can vary, whereas worker is far more reliable.
Correct they are not that bad, but I did feel a bit guilty shooting them at little kids so I thought I would share.
Worker darts are some of the best darts I've used in terms of reliability and accuracy. They perform exceptionally but they are definitely about as hard of a tip as you should allow. I shot myself with a few of them at about 20 feet away out of a Caliburn before using them at and outdoor war and they left a mark on my back for sure.
If you are using high powered guns on a smaller playing field they should probably be banned. If you have a large outdoor playing field they are totally fine.
Something to note about McMaster's rate constant. It's not the same thing as spring constant - the 'K' value we all know. Those springs are meant to be cut to length, which changes the spring constant, so you take the rate constant and divide by the length to get spring constant. For a full length [k26], this nets you a spring constant of 3.88lbf/in, and for the K31, that is .98lbf/in. The draw at maximum compression is probably in the same ballpark for each spring, which is probably what you want, but take this into consideration.
I knew there was something I needed to do to those numbers to get a better comparison.
That is at full length of each spring, right? (Not cut down)
How long of a spring were you planning to use?
9662K29 gets you a 3.806 lbf/in at a 0.75" OD and 0.54" ID so slightly smaller spring but draw would be very difficult on this one. Essentially the same as a [k26] but if you go longer it gets more difficult?
9662K44 gets you a 1.277 lbf/in with at a 0.75" OD and 0.59" ID which is a bit stiffer than the K31. Depending on how long you want the draw to be you should be able to pick one of these 3 to get a similar total draw weight of the [k26].
[k26] has a length of 11" Rate constant of 42.69 and spring constant of 3.88 lbf/in
For instance you could use 11" of the k29 and your rate constant would be 3.806 lbf/in x 11 in and your rate constant is 41.866 which would essentially feel the same as a [k26].
But you could achieve the same feel from a lot more spring with say a k44 where the spring constant is lower but the spring is over three times as long. Between the K29, K31, and K44 I would go with the K44.
There is a few on McMaster-Carr that should work, https://www.mcmaster.com/#9662K31 looks good.
In comparison to a [k26] it is 36" long while the [k26] is 11" long. The OD is 0.031" larger, ID is also 0.031" larger but it has the same wire diameter and they list the rate constant as 35.21 while the [k26] is listed at 42.69 so it would be a slightly lighter pull.
Ok, so I have found some wire clothes hangers in my parents room, and they allowed my to use it.
Now, the reinforcements are as followed:
- 4 pieces of 0.88mm gauge wire with 2 small pieces of the clothes hanger wire (1.5mm gauge) on the inside part of the boltsled
- the outside portion is reinforced with 1 piece of 0.88 mm wire
Would this boltsled last through 2000 shots under a 5kg Spring load?
At this point I think you have done some solid reinforcements, I would suggest running 10-25 shots through it and then disassemble and check for any problem areas. If all appears to be holding up run another 50 through the blaster and inspect again. If you are super worried about it exploding even after you have reinforced the boltsled I would be sure you regularly check for any problem areas or stress marks.
I think you should be fine with the reinforcement at that spring load. If it does explode at some point down the road you can just order a polycarbonate or aluminum replacement sled. As I mentioned I always go overkill in durability as I prefer to just not worry about it, which is why all of my longshots have aluminum boltselds in them whether its a 5kg spring or a 15kg spring.
Tripleshot/quadshot/handcannon can hopper if you just slap a wye on the front. PAS can also hopper as can the RRDG if you chop the turret off. Technically a modded xbow or Tbow can but those are both essentially homemade slapped inside their respective shells.
Personally I would use a tripleshot quadshot or handcannon, whichever one you end up finding. PAS is fun but the handle can be awkward to deal with if you throw a crazy spring in it. Also, the plastic on the handle and priming grip gets very slippery if you are using it at a war and are getting sweaty. Tripleshot is a very easy mod and they are a tremendous amount of fun and can be very competitive and much more comfortable to hold right out of the box.
If you are worried about it breaking I would just go ahead a reinforce it. I generally like to take the overkill approach though since I would rather have some piece of mind knowing it's not going to break rather than worrying about something shattering every time you prime or fire the thing.
Its impossible to do the slots for say a +bow catch however the smallest internal cut I have done with the stock blade is cutting a rainbow catch for 3/8" square pvc plunger rod. I am sure if you found some different blades the saw certainly has the capability to cut slots for the +bow catch however I only have experience with the stock blades. I have had it 2 almost 3 years and I have used nothing but the stock metal cutting blade for cutting plastics and the stock wood blade for some wooden stocks. It is very easy to make straight cuts with this saw.
Thank you for replying. Do you have trouble making small external cuts for like triggers or catch plates?
Only Groove gets to use image macros.
Or you could do it the way Ryan does which is the most effective way I have found. It is also much, much easier to do if you can find the part. It you do it this way it is actually better with the stub. We also have to keep in mind it will be used for a large variety of blasters and the majority of blasters that it will be used in, the stub will be helpful.
Yes it would. Look at the pictures, and how I route the air to the wye using a cpvc street elbow. With the stub permanently attached, I'd have to use a pvc elbow, which is larger -> more dead space. I would also have to mount they wye farther forward since the spigot end of the elbow would no longer fit inside the socket on the back of the wye. And I never said it would prevent us from making rainbowpup like designs, but that giving us more flexibility with how we attach the wye is better.
The stub would not prevent you from making a rainbowpup and it would not add any deadspace if any.
No stub. Not having it there allows for more flexibility with how to route air to the hopper so things like rainbowpups are easier to do. And it isn't that difficult to cut a 2" piece of pvc to make a stub if necessary.
When did this information come out?
The plunger tube itself is supposedly 2 feet long. Add a trigger and priming mechanism and you have a longshot's length but with no barrel.
*edit* NVM read the link in the OP, missed that the first time I read through.
My guess would be that after its minimized with that barrel for micro's it will be slightly longer than a longshot.
Whether or not the extra length is a faux barrel shouldn't matter. If we do end up converting to micros, a 2 foot CPVC/brass barrel would probably be necessary for "optimal" barrel length. It's going to be very long.