SKIZ's Content

#164606 Magazine Issue

Posted by SKIZ on 26 July 2008 - 03:33 AM in Homemades

If you've seen the blow forward bolt, why don't you just build a Vortex? Sure it's not as accurate, but since the bbs are stored inside, you have more room to make asthetic changes.

Or you could put the real mag at the bottom. Like this:

No vortex is not what i want. I already have the gun setup and i love it..i even have wet dreams about it
Also im not really using bb's as such..more .177 hunting pellets

I tried the idea today and it KINDA worked but i will need to modify it to make it work. It came to me not 3minutes ago that i could use a tension spring instead of a compression spring. The tension would sit externaly to the mag and use a guid to move the pellets forward. It makes sense in my head dont worry. I will try it and get back to you on the developments. Saying this however i still appriciate any comments and ideas from other people.

I like the idea, but first adapt this to nerf use, with a goofy PVC shell.

Then, make another and improve on it, make it smaller, and then make a MP5ish shell for it.

No i dont really want to scale it to nerf as such. Why i do love to shoot my mates with nerf im not "hardcore enough" to make my own. Saying this however i tried to make Boltsnipers FAR however once again this was scaled to lead sinkers and used compressed air instead of a plunger.

I use this site more for concepts and ideas for my own projects just as i used spud files for ideas. Feel free to scale it to nerf but i dont see myself spending more money on somehtign im not all to keen on doing..as it is this project is costing a fair bit. ALthough brass is an expensive metal and 0.5m of this stuff cost me about $10 Australian. Yes $10 itself is not to much when its 4 different lengths averageing $10 a piece well you do the math. (yes thats right its about $40) Plus you then have the epoxy and other bits and pieces. However it all adds up to money i dont have.

Anyway if more people can try to figure out how i can best make a mag it would be most helpful.
Remembering that:
Loads from top
needs to be fairly flush to body therfore a simple gravity fed mag where the rounds simply drop is nto sufficiant
the peelets are around .177 (4.5mm) so VERY fiddly to make something..so KISS

EDIT: Ok big development here. After trying different ways to make it work i have realized two main problems:

1. The shape of the pellets is allowing them to "lock" into each other so if stacked in a flat manner as i was planing on doin and a great deal of pressure is placed on them they are pushed into each other.
2. The current way i have been attempting is making them "flip" or even jam.

Basically at the moment im REALLY F***ING pissed off as i have nearly spent all day on it and just gettign no where.

P.S Sorry for double post and in particular the manner in which i posted. Not really a master of the forum.

#164600 Magazine Issue

Posted by SKIZ on 26 July 2008 - 12:09 AM in Homemades

If you've seen the blow forward bolt, why don't you just build a Vortex? Sure it's not as accurate, but since the bbs are stored inside, you have more room to make asthetic changes.

Or you could put the real mag at the bottom. Like this:

No vortex is not what i want. I already have the gun setup and i love it..i even have wet dreams about it

Also im not really using bb's as such..more .177 hunting pellets

I tried the idea today and it KINDA worked but i will need to modify it to make it work. It came to me not 3minutes ago that i could use a tension spring instead of a compression spring. The tension would sit externaly to the mag and use a guid to move the pellets forward. It makes sense in my head dont worry. I will try it and get back to you on the developments. Saying this however i still appriciate any comments and ideas from other people.

I like the idea, but first adapt this to nerf use, with a goofy PVC shell.

Then, make another and improve on it, make it smaller, and then make a MP5ish shell for it.

No i dont really want to scale it to nerf as such. Why i do love to shoot my mates with nerf im not "hardcore enough" to make my own. Saying this however i tried to make Boltsnipers FAR however once again this was scaled to lead sinkers and used compressed air instead of a plunger.

I use this site more for concepts and ideas for my own projects just as i used spud files for ideas. Feel free to scale it to nerf but i dont see myself spending more money on somehtign im not all to keen on doing..as it is this project is costing a fair bit. ALthough brass is an expensive metal and 0.5m of this stuff cost me about $10 Australian. Yes $10 itself is not to much when its 4 different lengths averageing $10 a piece well you do the math. (yes thats right its about $40) Plus you then have the epoxy and other bits and pieces. However it all adds up to money i dont have.

Anyway if more people can try to figure out how i can best make a mag it would be most helpful.
Remembering that:

Loads from top
needs to be fairly flush to body therfore a simple gravity fed mag where the rounds simply drop is nto sufficiant
the peelets are around .177 (4.5mm) so VERY fiddly to make something..so KISS

#163827 Magazine Issue

Posted by SKIZ on 23 July 2008 - 07:18 AM in Homemades

Hi.

Im in the process of making a bb gun but the idea can easily be fitted for nerf.

Im using brass with a compressor gun that when shot fires a bolt forward open a hole thus releasing the air and therefore shooting the porjectile. I didnt design the idea but have modified it to suit my needs. The original design was found on spud files but once i finish the whoel thing i will post pictures.

Anyway. The issue im having at the moment is the mag. I have a breech at the top which is proving to be a hassel as i want to add a shell to the gun leter giving it an MP5 type look. MP5's do not use a gravity fed mag and therefore a massive mag hanging out the top such as found on the bren gun does nto appeal.

I have currently thought of a p90 type style where i can fit the mag on the top of the gun without beign an eye sore and then make a fake mag well etc to replicate the mp5. The problem i think i will face however is fitting the rounds into the mag without jamming. The image below shows you my idea to try to solve the jamming issue by using an angles piece to load into the breech. This means that the spring can feed the rounds up however with the pressure faced on the rounds it will hit the angled piece and just force it to travel along without being caught.

This however can cause problems in itself as if the angle is not right or the round is too top heavy it will fall head first and jam anyway.

Anyway forumn open to comments and suggestiosn please.

#108506 Kickback

Posted by SKIZ on 31 May 2007 - 01:35 AM in Homemades

Yer it is possible. I get kickback from my air rifle i made. Just have a massive chamber with ALOT of pressure and quick valve(solenoid). It would give as much as a .22 maybe .22mag (not like theres a big difference between the two but still). Just use the same design as posted in the homemade secton of this site and instead of a ball valve put a solenoid.

#85056 Turbo Wheel V3

Posted by SKIZ on 14 July 2006 - 08:52 PM in Homemades

Are the motors just the little hobby 12volts? Because it looks like the feeding motor is but i dont no about the other two? Are the motors geared? or is it just motor shaft straight to the fly wheel?

#83232 Valve Questions

Posted by SKIZ on 14 June 2006 - 01:14 AM in Homemades

Im sory to say but i doubt u have searched as there has been about 3 new topics created on this same topic. ie "which valve is the best". The reason you see most people with ball valves is because they are cheep. THe reason there crap is because they are slow and accuracy is lost when u pull unless you can manage to lube up the ball REALLY REALLY REALLY REA... (well you get the picture) well. In my opinion solinoids are the way to go as they are quick release and accurate. That is of coarse just a basic valve that is simple to acquire, however there are many more vlaves that can be made or purchased but usually require a bit more money to buy and alot of time and effot to make.

#82208 Bows And Arrows

Posted by SKIZ on 22 May 2006 - 02:39 AM in Off Topic

Carbon- i quess its similar but i still will go for that design probally as it seems...sexier. Also If i manage to get a good enough bow i should launch bolts REALLY fast and really far.

#82145 Bows And Arrows

Posted by SKIZ on 21 May 2006 - 02:24 AM in Off Topic

Carbon thanks but no thanks. I am really sick of computer drawing now

As for the leaf spring idea i think it may be pluasabile if i get the rite one as i have seen them used before. I will look out for spring steel though just in case. The plan i linked ot my last message could probally be used for nerf application as well. If only someone was to download the plans themself.....carbon maybe......or bolt......or captain slug you guys seem like the most creative. jokes

#82096 Bows And Arrows

Posted by SKIZ on 20 May 2006 - 06:59 AM in Off Topic

Bassically what i had in mind (just download the small .pdf )
http://www.vintagepr...-bow-plans.htmlHowever going to modify the design a little bit to be just that little bit safer.

I live in Australia and have never seen spring steel in rolls at my hardware store?

PLEASE keep the info rolling i appriciate the help.
I have tried to use both rhino and alibre and am no good at them. I think ill just stick to good old paint and the tradition pen and paper...and rubber

#82094 Bows And Arrows

Posted by SKIZ on 20 May 2006 - 02:37 AM in Off Topic

Flaming Hilt: i knew what it was as such but didnt no were to get it from. I will just get one from a car (leaf spring). The one i have in mind should be able to have about 1/4 of a tonne of pressure. I will probally just go for real bow strings.

RaZeR_ShArP and euphemism: i will probally go with the leaf spring just i would feel abit safer unless you think there is more power in wood. Ive got ruff plans of a repeating crossbow which is pump action and should be pretty accurate.

OFF TOPIC: Tomorrow there is a gun show hosted by the SSAA (sporting, shooters, Assosiation of Australia) and i should be able to pick up some neat stuff from there. I am hoping to get a compound bow but, in NSW its ellegal to buy a crossbow so im forced to make one.

Thanks for your help and feel free to throw anything at all in this thread about bows. eg. plans, history, laws, etc.

NOTE: what type of program is the best for designing a prototype? like bolt and captain slug use?

#82049 Bows And Arrows

Posted by SKIZ on 19 May 2006 - 02:56 AM in Off Topic

Puggy- not quitw what i had in mind but thanks

Flaming Hilt- spring steel? and to be honest im still in REALLY early development stage so i dont no what im using. What do you mean by taught and untaught? And whos sasafras?
Thank you for your time you seem VERY helpful and i will problly be PMing you in the future.

#82003 Bows And Arrows

Posted by SKIZ on 18 May 2006 - 01:27 AM in Off Topic

I was looking a making a crossbow (just for fun) and was wondering what type of material i could use for the bow part. I got everything else figured out for now but will probally stumble across other problems. I know that a bow can use wood or carbon firbe but i just want something cheap, simple and powerful. If one of you suggests wood could you please tell me what type and how i should go about making it "elastic". Thank you.

#81968 A.b.p

Posted by SKIZ on 17 May 2006 - 06:44 PM in Homemades

Thats basically what i had in mind when i was saying always on but, thanks for your better use of words. The other thing u might whant to do is have to tanks. That means you could empty one then swicth to the second one, while at the same time charge the original. (did u get all that, kinda not the best at explaining) Thats just one posibilty however Carbons idea seems abit more practical.

NOTE: i take back what i said about this pump after actually reading the specs full way through i relised that it might be ok after all. )I didnt see the 150psi part) 150psi would be great regulatored, a full tank should prove many shots. However make sure you can adjust when the pump kicks in, and make a manul override as you may whant to it kick in at about 25% capacity. I quess the best thing to do is just adjust it so that you will NEVER run out of air but at the same time, not ALWAYS haveing the pump going.

#81953 A.b.p

Posted by SKIZ on 17 May 2006 - 06:04 AM in Homemades

What is with all the negativity geeze his doing things the rite way. Define problem, plan, build, check, modify. There the steps that need to be thought about when designing something so complex. Fair enough if he was building a simple ball valve and just pissing about with it.

Anyway good work
You said you were looking at that little pump, and i know people have already comented but i to dont think its the best pump to use for such a job. I dont actually nerf i just like the concept, but i can imagine you need something thats quick and powerful. Although 30 psi will hurt i dont think that you will be able to fill a tank up quick enough. Even if you were to fill a Massive tank then regulate it, it would still chew through time. I quess the only idea that pops into mind is to have a small tank with the pump ALWAYS on. However it will prove abit anoyin if your trying to stalk, as your oppent might just here the humming of the motor.

P.s. Whats happening with the gattling? Looking forward to that project looks kick ass. Keep up the good work and the "Fancy Pictures". :blush:

#81874 Rotary Breech?

Posted by SKIZ on 15 May 2006 - 06:17 PM in Homemades

You could hook the rotating device on small 12volt motor that periodically stops at each point. (the shell load, the shot taken and the ejection of the shell) You could then use contancts on the rotating device to fire the solonoid. I.e. when the shell is in position to fire contacts will be aligned and ready to fire. To allow for better but slightly slower ejection you could always make one of the opening of the rotating device smaller. That means that the dart will only have one way to travel and theres no chance of it falling out the other side. The bad side of this though is that the dart would basically have to do a 360 before it could be fired again. Basically this allows for automatic fire.

NOTE: I will have a picture for you later today, as i no that what i said would be hard to understand.

#81775 Basic Ballvalve Gun Question

Posted by SKIZ on 13 May 2006 - 08:28 PM in Homemades

Dude i dont no ranges as such but i would NOT go for a ball valve. SLOW and you get much better out of a soloid. If however you dont want to take the advice put a log piece of wood on the valve so that the mechanical advantage is greater thus opening the valve quicker.

P.S. I no from experience that a soloniod is better as i have the ball valve gun and after breaking the ball valve i replaced it with a solonoid and i couldnt be happier.

#80970 Ronster's Halo 2 Smg (smg-r)

Posted by SKIZ on 29 April 2006 - 06:44 AM in Homemades

Good work
Any hopes of seeing this as a proper smg?
Will it have a clip eventually?
I understand your still in construction but still just cant wait. I think ill try and make one with a couple variations to it. It just looks so "replica-ish" of the halo smg.

GOOD WORK!!!!

#80969 Homemade?

Posted by SKIZ on 29 April 2006 - 06:19 AM in Homemades

A homemade is really just anything that you made yourself. For air tanked one yes it goes air source (pump of somesort eg. bike pump or compressor)>into a tank> tank is hooked upto a valve that is closed when fillin the tank and oped when ready to fire>then to a barel.
You could always do recievers and what not for mags so you can have several shots though.

There is also a plunger version where the tank and pump are combined together so to say. The plunger is inside the tank as such (basically like a bike pump) and then is hooked directly onto the barel. Tanked guns are always more powerful as it isnt possible to get the same pressure/force put of a plunger.

Then there is discs. I dont no quite how this works but im pretty sure its just 2 spining wheels that wen a dart/disc is put between them the discs catch the "bullet" and "fling" it out.

Hope ive helped.

#80596 Ignitors

Posted by SKIZ on 22 April 2006 - 06:59 AM in Off Topic

Thanks ompa

Well to show it worked and im not a terrorist you can easily see that this was let of in the comfort of my own backyard with no one around to get hurt....well maybe the goats

The file is small and i would say good quality so people with dial- up dont be afraid.

Click here to watch LITTLE-BIT-OF-FUN-73

And to settle anyother questions no that wasnt me with the high voice saying "o my god" nor was it an a-bomb (just the smoke kinda looks like it).

#80474 Ignitors

Posted by SKIZ on 20 April 2006 - 07:17 PM in Off Topic

Hey sorry for bringin up an old topic but i prefered to get yelled at for this then the usual "o f**ck do a search next time". So i have made several charges now and let them off with the steel wool (thanks bolt). There only small bangs but if someone would tell me how to put videos on the forums it would be appriciated. By the way i made them about 900kb so they are good for those with dial up aswell.

#80317 C.s.h.g.

Posted by SKIZ on 19 April 2006 - 12:04 AM in Homemades

Servos are easy to use but yer thats cool.
Well i still stand by my other comments. Do you actually plan on making a write-up and if so would it be in exel like bolt did so the majority of people can get it?

#80315 C.s.h.g.

Posted by SKIZ on 18 April 2006 - 11:57 PM in Homemades

Hey this is really starting to take shape, CAN'T wait ill its ready.
You do relize that when you create something as good as this by law you have to make a detailed write-up. Ok i lied but you better!!!!!!

Good luck with the testing and hope you manage to find some time to finish it in the near future.
Have you ever thought about making an attachment so that it can be mounted and then put in on servers so its remote? I know there was some talk about this at the begining of the thread but just curious to see if you would. Because with mine i made a stand to be used as a turret but as mentioned at the begining of the thread the gun is no more.

#78117 Ignitors

Posted by SKIZ on 30 March 2006 - 05:45 AM in Off Topic

Thanks for your help guys but i think bolt has laid this to rest with a simple yet terrific idea. Steel wool sounds great and easy/cheap as anything so once again thanks. Unless you guys no how to make cheap remote detonators i got everything i need to know.

#78111 Ignitors

Posted by SKIZ on 29 March 2006 - 11:37 PM in Off Topic

Ok thanks for your help.
Sorry about the posts i should really think abit better before i post.
I live in Australia and seems how we have a fireworks ban its hard to buy fuses and everytime i try to make them they fail. I will try the steel wool idea as that seems most practical. I'll get a disposible camera and use the capaciter out of that. (easy to hook up as a taser aswell)

I know in the homemade section you should post images on topics but does the rule apply for this thread aswell? I.e. should i post images on what i do if it works?

Thanks for your help and contributions.

#78014 Ignitors

Posted by SKIZ on 29 March 2006 - 05:37 AM in Off Topic

Thanks for that

sorry better clarify that my bad.
I experiment with .22 rimfire amounts but for rockets use large amounts. I currentlly use a sparkalar up the guts of the rocket (combustion area) and wen the rocket takes off it throws the sparkalar out. I understand you wouldnt want to give me information that could be portentioally terroristic but i assure you its all for fun and as mentioned not for harm to anyone or anything. If you dont believe me i can post videos but hoping it wont come to that. I have googled it and i know how to make the rocket work.

http://www.wfvisser....kets_BP_EN.html

Basically what im doin. But of coarse no explosive head on it yet. Dont whant to play with that shit until i have a good understanding.

#78012 Ignitors

Posted by SKIZ on 29 March 2006 - 02:53 AM in Off Topic

Yer terrorist for sure

All im doin is muking around in my backyard. Ill clear this now and say in no way do i intend to use this on people or near people and thats why i want ignitors so when i do it in my backyard no one is near by to get hurt. The amount i play with at any one time would be eqivalent to a .22 round and am mainlly doin it to make rockets. And no not rockets for any frikin terrorist activity, rockets you shoot up in the sky and eventually make them do colourful shit (basically fireworks).

#78007 Ignitors

Posted by SKIZ on 29 March 2006 - 01:59 AM in Off Topic

Hey all

First: As far as i know this type of question can be put in this topic section but if i shouldnt post about this stuff just tell me.

My mate and I have just discovered how to make gunpowder along with other neat stuff. The delema weeve been having is how to like it without using frikin sparkalars or lighters. What my question is, is there a simple way to make a CHEAP ignitor that can be continually used with minimal sacrafictioal parts (ie. dont have to keep buying new parts). Ive tried hooking up a fine piece of wire to a a 12 volt battery but didnt really work.

Now this is only for those with a great deal of knowledge on the topic and not really that important. Does anyone no how to make (use this word VERY LOOSLY) High Explosives. Basically something that doesnt need compression and can just be lite and thats that. I dont want anything to complex as still new to the concept.

Please dont get shitty with me for asking ive looked on the net and thought that nerfhaven would be great as it is full of people with lots of ideas and several with solutions to them.

#77655 C.s.h.g.

Posted by SKIZ on 26 March 2006 - 04:13 AM in Homemades

O that easy ay.
Cool sounds great and with your simplified explanations on how everything works... lets just say i have high hopes of this being one hell of a support weapon. All you have to do now is figure out how you can put a basic sight on it.
Jokes of coarse if this can do what your saying it will be able to do screw aiming just spray and pray.

For your plunger you might want to use carbon's idea of having a washer fastened to an end cap.

http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=6232

Seems that his plunger would offer alot of power.

#77653 C.s.h.g.

Posted by SKIZ on 26 March 2006 - 03:53 AM in Homemades

It took quite alot of time to figure out but I'm going to nest 9/16 brass into 19/32 brass then stick that into 1/2" PVC. The brass becomes the barrel, and the PVC simply becomes a jacket for the barrel/breech to slide inside of.
The barrel is actuated as a breech to push the dart backwards 1/4"-inch and it gets wedged into the end of the breech/barrel. This allows the PVC to be cemented to the plunger tank and frame pieces. This ends up being a simpler and smaller enclosed mechanism than the zero-style PVC breech.

FUCK!!! I dont get any of that. sorry. I think i MIGHT understand but how is it going to open and close on demand?

#77638 C.s.h.g.

Posted by SKIZ on 26 March 2006 - 02:01 AM in Homemades

Well looks all good
seems that you have looked at all aspects. Please post plans if you manage to pull this off because as i said really interested in miniguns (using a motor so mini gun, manual turn means gattling gun) and also to see how your model will differ from mine.

Just a quick question though how are you going to cover the breech?
And another quick hint: makes lots of darts now!!! This thing should chew through darts like theres no tomorrow.

#77628 C.s.h.g.

Posted by SKIZ on 26 March 2006 - 12:15 AM in Homemades

Hey sounds great!!

ive built something like this before with a mate but unfortuantlly the power involved in the springs compared to the strenght of the spring housing was just to great and gave way. Havnt attempted to rebuild just used the remains for scrapes.
Just some pointers:
1. Remember that the barrels are spinning and that means timing of when the plunger has enough power to fire the dart will have to be thought about as yo may pver shoot your mark. I.E. spining clockwise: you want to fire at 12 "o" clock, if not timed corectly you will shoot at 1 "o" clock.
2. plungers have good enough power if you have a king shit spring behind them, but make sure you learn from my mistake and make the spring housing strong.
3. If you use cams to pull your plunger back the force required to pull will be dampened. (mechanical advantage)
4. Instead of using a motor whats wrong with a geared handle?
5. No shells required so only one hole to worry about. (the feeding hole) make sure this is covered before firing or lots of pressure lost.

This is only rough but really really really basic picture of how to go about a firing mechanism. I know you can see something very similar on www.howstuffworks.com but meh just trying to help.

Of coarse yours would need to be cilindrical and look different to the pic but you get the jist of what needs to be done.
Hope you can get this done because i wouldnt mind making my second atempt at one of these. (gattling gun)
looking forward to your work ^_^

#77195 Boltsniper Scar-n Rifle Bs-8

Posted by SKIZ on 22 March 2006 - 02:58 AM in Homemades

Hey bolt just curious to know when you think you might get a write up for this? (dont mean to sound pushy just curious)

STRAYING ABIT HERE

You seem to stay to plunger alot in your recent homemades and was woundering what the obsession is? Personally prefer compressed air seems to have more power and easier to turn into semi-auto.

Also with things like the fAR i turned that into a compressed air gun and was woundering (in your opion) how big the air chamber would need to be (approx) i was thinking of just turning the stock into it. Do you think this will be enough?

#76827 Boltsniper Scar-n Rifle Bs-8

Posted by SKIZ on 19 March 2006 - 12:45 AM in Homemades

Firstly great job!!!

Secondly will you be posting writeups for this and a substatuite for the mag well and AR-15 mag as unfortuantly dont really have access to $1400 machines, not all quite as lucky as some!!! I swear i dont envy you :blink:

#75186 Semi-auto Bull-pup Rifle

Posted by SKIZ on 04 March 2006 - 09:03 PM in Homemades

Dude thats fucking sweet.

Out of curiosity though why do you have three sets of O-rings?
Also it will be more accurate (i think) if you actually put a trugger as you wont have to pull back that bulky looking thing.
Anyway goodluck and looking forward to seeing end result.

#73372 M203?

Posted by SKIZ on 16 February 2006 - 11:56 PM in Homemades

You could easily just attach a 1 1/4 inch barrel to a ball valve and then a 1 /1/4 inch air tank and thats it. I no your talking more about shotgun but that would just mean you would replace the large barrel with lots of little ones.

I know its simple crappy picture but hey thats what you get.

#73293 New Member, New Home-mades

Posted by SKIZ on 16 February 2006 - 05:14 AM in Homemades

SKIZ, I'm very curious what your able to do with 120 psi

and do you mean solenoid, as in a coil of a wire with a current? If so, what function does that serve?

1) I will Edit this later and add pics and video.
2) Could someone tell me how to put videos on forumns? (so i can show what is can do.

)
3) Tomorrow afternoon after school i will get ranges of different projectiles. (.177 slugs/ lemons/ darts/ rocks/ fish sinkers)
4) i will also show you the inside of the solonoid. (i cant explain it)

#72779 Air Rifle

Posted by SKIZ on 10 February 2006 - 03:34 PM in Off Topic

Ok i wont bother you with this then i'll work it out.

Not only do the above comments make me wonder why you're even here, but I'd also like to point out that this is a bloody Nerf site.

I thought that was the idea of OFF TOPIC? talk about things that were unrealated to nerf. ps2 network cards/computer stuff/military/ pictures of animals there all topics ive seen on here and none of them are to do with nerf?

Anyway as i said i wont discusss this anymore. Maybe "The Infinite Shindig" might be able to close the topic or something?

#72757 Air Rifle

Posted by SKIZ on 10 February 2006 - 01:43 AM in Off Topic

I was thinking of making a proper .177 air rifle/bb gun or whatever you want to call it and have come to a problem.

I know what my basic design will be and how it will fire but how can i load the ammo in and make it semi-auto. Ie. i got a valve that will be semi-auto but how will the ammo load after each shot. I was thinking of having it like a revolver but how can i make it turn the barel to align up a new pellet? Or could i just have a mag so after each shot it just advances into the barel? (or do i need to but it in shells)

DESIGN:

ANY SUGGESTIONS????

#72214 New Member, New Home-mades

Posted by SKIZ on 03 February 2006 - 08:13 PM in Homemades

Nice work.
This was also the gun that got me into nerf and was the first one built. Its easy to build, reliable and easy to mod. Ive converted mine into something more accurate and powerful by using a solonoid. All i do is tap a button and "wosh" 120 psi of air fly's out. (of coarse not good for shooting at people).

Mine with its incredablly simple mod:

ENJOY!!

#71821 Revolver Magazine

Posted by SKIZ on 28 January 2006 - 07:29 PM in Homemades

Sounds great! You seem to know a great deal about what your doing and am really looking forward to what the product will turn out like.

Just to clarify things though. Does the magazine "hook" into a handle like a standard pistol?

What form of propulsion are you looking at ie. co2/plunger/pumped air. If you use pumped air may i suggest a (sorry cant find the name or a picture anymoere) small bike pump. They pump about 120psi and are only 30cm.

Are you going to make this a semi-auto or single shot. (i know you have a mag but havnt heard about your propulsion).

Sorry to ask all these questions but i really would love to make a belt fed system and has been a must for me to try now for a while. I was thinking about using dics but your idea seems so much more practical, so when your done would you think about putting your plans up like bolt did for his F.A.R (and hopefully pistol)?

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