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#268512 3/4" Od Pvc?

Posted by Hubb on 08 March 2010 - 02:09 PM in Modifications

He may be talking about pex tubing. It is pretty close to the designated size and has different colored marks on it (which generally are for determining the different sizes). Standard pvc pipe (be it sch40 or 200psi) is generally white with black lettering. Gray PVC pipe is generally Sch80, which is much more sturdier than the other two. PVC conduit is usually gray as well, but is Sch40, so it won't be really flimsy as he describes. And, for the record, Sch40, Sch80 and 200psi (or SDR) all have the same outside diameter.

If he is actualy talking about 3/4" pvc pipe, then see the post above mine. This would indicate to me that the person who put together this guide really doesn't know what he is talking about, and, therefore, may be full of crap on the entire thing.



#268506 3/4" Od Pvc?

Posted by Hubb on 08 March 2010 - 01:29 PM in Modifications

Is the guide talking about CPVC? 3/4" CPVC has an OD of .875 (1/2" is running .625). CPVC is probably better suited for the darts anyway, as it will be closer to the right size.

Honestly, seeing the guide will help.



#268505 N-strike Magazines

Posted by Hubb on 08 March 2010 - 01:25 PM in Modifications

It's a constant force spring. When the end is pulled, the tension wants it to return. By hooking the end portion to the top of the magazine and having the coiled portion under the follower, it will allow the follower to push down (and unwind the spring) in a constant force throughout the travel. As the magazine is unloaded, the coil will wind back up, causing the follower to rise.

How is it the wrong type of spring? It's just like the one Boltsniper described in his FAR.



#268504 Pvat-piston Valve Air Tank

Posted by Hubb on 08 March 2010 - 01:22 PM in Homemades

I like this design. It's very similar to a Nelson type valve (if any of you know what that is). In fact, it's similar to the one I'm designing now. I'm interested to see it completed, though, especially how you plan on triggering it. An option (if you haven't decided already) is to use the actual bolt to open the valve.

As far as the QEV, yes these can perform well if they are set up correctly. I'd assume that since you are using this type of valve, that you are already familiar with this, so I won't go into any details on it. They are a bit less efficient than spool valves of similar size, but it should work okay if the pressure in the chamber is right, which is going to depend on it's volume and the actual function of the blaster.



#268277 N-strike Magazines

Posted by Hubb on 06 March 2010 - 08:10 PM in Modifications

Found the spring:
http://www.mcmaster....9293k42/=63u07z

This particular one will stretch up to 15", but I will probably trim it so that I can load as many darts into the magazine as possible. I will have to get one a check it out before I know just how much needs to be trimmed. It has about 1/2 pound of force, which is around the tension of the current springs.

I'm also working with the magazine to possibly make it a double stack version without having to use two magazines for just one. This is gonna be tedious this will require me to use other materials such as plexiglass and also to modify my receiver. I will also have to modify the stock, as I rather like the idea of storing a spare mag in it, but I would estimate, with the new spring, that I should be able to get about 15 rounds per mag.

My Recon is also going through a complete change in that I will be converting it to pneumatic operation and have it semi auto, so these new mags will be just the thing for it.



#268133 N-strike Magazines

Posted by Hubb on 05 March 2010 - 12:25 PM in Modifications

In the mean time, why don't you guys share your thoughts on doing this with the mags...

Which we already have at length in the past.
Making springs is difficult and finding that type of spring that will also fit inside the N-Strike magazines is near impossible.

Frankly it's not really worth the effort in my mind because I find magazines to be awkward to reload and carry. Also there's really no need to work so hard on this when a drum mag is now available.

Can you provide me with links where this was discussed? I couldn't find any.

A lot of auto parts stores sell these types of springs. As far as making them, these are a little bit easier to do than standard coil springs.

Drum mags vs box mags - Matters of opinion. I personally like the box mags better simply because they are easier to carry and (to me) look better on the blaster without throwing off the weight.


Try a spiral notebook spring.

That is a coil spring, right? Those are what I'm trying to avoid.



#268124 N-strike Magazines

Posted by Hubb on 05 March 2010 - 11:05 AM in Modifications

For those of you who have used these magazines, the problem I am about to discuss will relate to you. As the magazine is loaded, the force on the darts it get heavier and heavier. The mags are made to hold 6 rounds, but you might be able to squeeze in one more. As the magazine is loaded, though, it forces the follower to push directly in the center of the dart, which is often the result of jams if the dart is not perfectly straight.

Magazine mods that I've seen (that combine two mags into one) are nice, but still present the same problem, and will do so more in depth than the original mag.

Here's my thoughts:
Boltsniper used a constant force spring in his mags for the beautiful works he did. Now, by replacing the stock mag spring with a constant force spring of the right tension, each dart will have the same amount of force applied to it, which will cut down on jamming. But the added advantage is that these springs tend to compress just a little bit further, meaning that the magazine will comfortable hold more rounds instead of the standard 6. I'm estimating at least two extra rounds per mag.

Of course, the mag mod will require a longer spring, but it might net the addition of 5 or more extra darts with the same tension.

I'm gonna work on this over the weekend since I have three magazines for my Recon. If I fail, I'm not at a total loss. I will post in this topic when it is complete, along with a how-to if it is successful.

In the mean time, why don't you guys share your thoughts on doing this with the mags...



#266546 Recon Charging Handle

Posted by Hubb on 23 February 2010 - 08:56 AM in Modifications

This can make the bolt-sled snap easier due to concentrating the stress on one side of it, instead of distributing it throughout. I think you should have put the charging handle in/on the bolt-nub, where there's the pin that holds the bolt-sled and the bolt (barrel thing) together. Also, you could cut the tactical rail off the original slide, throw the slide away, and glue the rail on the top of the gun.

I considered that and may do so in the future. I also considered going with a top cocking handle. So far, though, it works fine, even with the extra spring in the back.



#266436 Recon Charging Handle

Posted by Hubb on 22 February 2010 - 08:36 AM in Modifications

OP says that I plan on putting a handle on it. And yes, the threads on the bolt do irritate after a while, especially with stronger springs. The main purpose of this particular setup was to determine if the charging bracket could take the weight of the spring in this manner without breaking and it does so.



#266411 Recon Charging Handle

Posted by Hubb on 21 February 2010 - 11:34 PM in Modifications

Cool, but I do not really see the point.

The point for this is that it is rather hard to grip the slide and prime the gun when you have accesories on it. This is just a different priming method.

That and the idea of placing a pump onto the Recon has been played out.

@Dangaard - This whole process took me about ten minutes to complete, so, yes, I agree with you that it could be a lot neater. I just sorta threw this together to see if it would work. When I get the time to finalize my Recon, it will be much neater.



#266390 Recon Charging Handle

Posted by Hubb on 21 February 2010 - 10:05 PM in Modifications

The most aggravating thing about a Recon to me is the fact that the sight rail has to be moved in order to charge the blaster. I'm probably alone in this, but I kind of like using the Nerf sights, especially the red dot one. With that said, I wanted a way to charge the blaster without the need to move the sight rail.

I considered making a pump for it, but all of the tutorials on this still require the sight rail to move. I considered bypassing the sight rail completely with a pump, but my design would have called for a complete revamp of at least half the blaster. THEN, I remembered my Maverick (that I wish I would not have lost half the pieces for). On it, I fixed the sight rail to keep it from moving, then placed a cocking knob on it. So that's what I would do to the Recon.

The whole process was pretty simple, so I'll just make some pics and can explain in further detail if there are any questions.

Posted Image
I removed the powertube from the charging bracket, then placed a nut and bolt through one of the holes. Before doing this, however, the head of the bolt was ground down, so as not to interfere with the magazine or the barrel entry.

Posted Image
This shows the powertube inserted into the blaster. I chose to put the charging handle on this side because I'm a lefty and this allows me to charge the blaster without the need to remove my hand from the grip. Notice that the receiver slot had to be widened to accommodate the nut.

Posted Image
The right side of the sight rail was trimmed out to allow the charging handle to fully retract. I marked it's position and glued it onto this half of the receiver to keep it from moving.

The left side of the sight rail was left in tact with the exception of grinding down the catch on the inside of it. I did not glue this side, due to two hidden screws on the right side of the receiver, and it is held in place with its own screws.

Now, the sight rail is stationary and allows me to use the fancy dot sight without it moving (and sliding onto the barrel when I charge it forward). I plan on placing some sort of handle onto the bolt threads in the future.



#265763 Reverse Plunger Dead Space Killing Method

Posted by Hubb on 17 February 2010 - 05:08 PM in Modifications

Well, it looked good on paper... :D

Seriously, though. The pressure and volume are only small aspects. Of course there are other things needed to make it actually work as a lot of other forces at work rather than just a moving plunger. Now, getting into that is a completely different subject and is probably one that will be rather lengthy and confusing.



#265736 Reverse Plunger Dead Space Killing Method

Posted by Hubb on 17 February 2010 - 11:15 AM in Modifications

Nice mod. But it seems like a pain to have to drill out foam. Couldn't you just use a stock dart since it already has a hole in it? This way, the hole for the straw would be in the direct center every time. If it needs to be thicker, then electrical tape could be wrapped around the dart before it's placed in.

As far as the performance increase, LotusNerf was on the right track.

Using the equations P1V1 = P2V2, it shows that the pressure will increase as the volume is decreased. Say the plunger, unmodded, will generate 10psi and the volume of it is 2in^3. By placing the straw in, let's say that the volume is cut in half, which would be 1in^3. Using the above formula, the new pressure generated would be double that of what originally was created. This means that the smaller the volume, the higher the pressure is going to be. Of course, there is a spot where this will do no good and actually hurt performance, but that's gonna be based on barrel friction, dart weight, surface area, etc.



#148317 Zero Talent's Homemade Ball Valve Gun

Posted by Hubb on 31 March 2008 - 09:19 AM in Homemades

Kidfish: I know what the original looks like.

I would suggest to use more tape. Yesterday, I bought some tape at Home Depot. It is a type of electrical tape that is slip resistant on the outside.



#147421 Zero Talent's Homemade Ball Valve Gun

Posted by Hubb on 27 March 2008 - 11:11 PM in Homemades

I'm trying to comprehend why the barrel works sometimes and, other times, it flies off upon firing.
Can you describe in more detail how your gun works? Pictures (even a drawing) will help.

I've got the feeling that we are just not understanding your build. You're using a 1/2" barrel, but you did not make the breech, but you need to remove the barrel to load it.



#147215 Intro / Question

Posted by Hubb on 27 March 2008 - 12:16 AM in Homemades

Gyrvalcon: That looks promising. If I were to use something like that, I would connect a trigger to a rod, which would open the valve, leaving the barrel stationary. It should work quite well with lower pressures but I would worry about the pull on a higher pressure system (say around 100psi).

Shadow: That looks complicated (which would be the work of the fellow who helped you). I like the idea of using a smaller piston valve to pilot the larger valve, which would probably solve the problem of a higher pressure system from Gyrvalcon. Also, I do believe that I don't quite understand the 3D drawing there. Please explain.



#146178 Intro / Question

Posted by Hubb on 21 March 2008 - 05:50 PM in Homemades

CaptainSlug: Although I am limited with my tools, I have made several custom parts. It only takes a bit of imagination. I imagine I would not be able to construct one of your +bows, but I can do more than most. Besides, if I run into a situation where I need a tool I don't have, I'll go buy one.

Doom: That would work, however, it is just a little too bulky on what I would like to do. Maybe I can make a varient of it. I'll think about.

Now, over the past couple of days, I've been browsing these forums and have come up with another possible solution to my problem:

Posted Image

Basically, it is a normal piston valve. To exhaust the pilot area, the check valve must open. It does so by the hammer / sear / trigger setup. Hopefully, the hammer will strike the check valve (firing pin?) and close it almost immediately.

Initially, I thought of having the pilot volume, as well as the compression from the hammer, reset the hammer, but I don't know how feasible that would be, especially with low pressures. This can be solved with a cocking handle.



#145695 Intro / Question

Posted by Hubb on 18 March 2008 - 05:10 PM in Homemades

Let me see here.

imaseoulman: The only mod I did to my recon that was not on this site was adding a brass barrel. It held the loaded Streamlines just enough to keep them from falling out. The plastic thing (I think would be called a barrel) comes out. Other than that, everything else is (a variant) of mods from this site. Now, the Recon may have been angled a litte (more than 0 but less than 30), but it averaged that with the 6 shots.

CaptainSlug: That's exactly it. I just couldn't think of what to call it. As far as tools go, I got plenty of drill bits, a hacksaw, a bench grinder, a vice, and a pocket knife. I do understand that it will not be a true semi-auto, but what I was hoping to accomplish was this; I don't want the main chamber to dump all at once. BTW: That +bow of yours is quite a sight.

Pineapple: I understand that to move 5 paintballs, I am going to need some force. It's been thought out (actually, I've been thinking about it for about four months now). Basically, I am hoping that you guys can show me things in here, and I could modify them to work for me. I plan on using the shell design with a ball detent for each shell. I do know that this is not too practical, but it would be so cool. If I do get to play with it, I would not think of using it in a real game. Just something to shoot around the yard. A guy has his hobbies. BTW: Me and my wife occasionally play inside the house. Nerf seems to be easier on the walls than paintballs :D

Doom: Thank you. I will study this and see what I can do. If you allow, I will probably base my valve off of these.

Cheese Boy: Check the PM.

Again, thanks guys. I'm trying to think "outside the box" here and you guys are really allowing me to do so.



#145691 Recon With Ls Scope

Posted by Hubb on 18 March 2008 - 04:53 PM in General Nerf

My Recon came with one of those. It was cool at first, until I went to shoot it. When I slid the slide forward, the scope came off.

I noticed that the slide on the Recon has bars on it to keep such an item from sliding too far back. To fix my moving scope problem, I cut slits in the rail of it. Now it rests on these blocking bars and does not move.


Why would you use a longshot scope for anything other than looks?...



I wouldn't.



#145640 Intro / Question

Posted by Hubb on 18 March 2008 - 01:13 AM in Homemades

I don't have much experience with ressurised gasses, but here are my thoughts.

1. I don't see the trigger rod moving. This setup could run into problems when the rod is connected and both washers are moved at the same time. The trigger rod is only connected to the barrel piston. It is able to slide through the chamber piston. The chamber piston will be moved only by the air going from the main to secondary chamber.

2. I am not sure, but I think it will be nearly impossible to open that with the big rubber washers @ 100psi. It sounds to me like it would take 100 pounds or so of force. Am I wrong? I do not think you are wrong, and that is my biggest concern about this valve. Maybe I can do some math and see what I can do.

3. I think it will be more effective it the hole to the barrel is at the end, not partway in. This is the way most compressed air NERF guns are buit, and it lessens the need for the spring. I was thinking along the lines of a barrel sealing piston valve, but I see what you're saying. The spring is there only to assist in re-seating the pistons.




#145636 Intro / Question

Posted by Hubb on 18 March 2008 - 12:29 AM in Homemades

Okay, so I have thought, and drew this up. This is actually a combination of several different valves, combined to attempt to accomplish my goal.

Posted Image

At rest, the main chamber and barrel are sealed off. When the chamber pressurizes to, say, 100psi, so does the secondary chamber, by sliding the chamber piston forward. Once the pressures are even in both chambers, the chamber valve will reset via the spring. The barrel piston is connected to a pull rod. When the rod is pulled, the barrel piston opens the barrel. Because the barrel piston is sleeved over the chamber piston, the barrel piston will keep the chamber piston from opening, that is, until the force overcomes finger strength, which will actually reset the trigger. This, in turn, will cause the secondary chamber to refill.

Any thoughts?



#145628 Recon With Ls Scope

Posted by Hubb on 17 March 2008 - 11:10 PM in General Nerf

My Recon came with one of those. It was cool at first, until I went to shoot it. When I slid the slide forward, the scope came off.

I noticed that the slide on the Recon has bars on it to keep such an item from sliding too far back. To fix my moving scope problem, I cut slits in the rail of it. Now it rests on these blocking bars and does not move.



#145624 Intro / Question

Posted by Hubb on 17 March 2008 - 10:57 PM in Homemades

Hello. I am Hubb. I've never actually "Nerf'd" but I play paintball regularly. I found this site when I purchased some Nerf guns for me and my son and looked to increase their performance. He got the Maverick and I got the Recon. After modding the Recon (using mods on this site), it averages 85' flat. I'm satisfied with that. I've yet to mod the Maverick (I don't know if I want to, since I am his primary target). This site has very excellent information, especially concerning homemades, which led me to believe you guys know what you're talking about.

Currently, I am designing a homemade. It is a magazine fed, pump action (modeled after Boltsniper's FAR). It will run off of regulated CO2. I have everything worked out except one thing. You see, I would like for the valve to be a semi-auto type of valve, which will allow for fast follow-up shots and be efficient with the CO2.

My question is, is there a way I can construct a semi-auto type of valve that will do this? I saw Dr Nerf's valve and that is pretty much exactly how I want my valve to work, however, his valve just seems to big and bulky for what I am trying to do.

More detail: The homemade will be designed to shoot 5 paintballs simultaneously at around 250fps. It could probably shoot those big Stefans as well. Currently, I have a piston valve (courtesy of Spudfiles). Having a bit of experience with that, I would have to release the trigger fairly quickly to give the desired effects and preserve CO2. I prefer to conduct follow-up after the shot (any of you with shooting experience will know what I'm talking about).

Any help would be appreciated.