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#364098 Multi-impact darts?

Posted by Xhosant on 23 July 2019 - 04:16 AM in Darts and Barrels

Single tagger titan -> probably a singled titan
 
sink drain adapter -> a PVC fitting that would likely allow quick barrel changes or fairly easy adaptability
 
darts loaded normally -> all the darts are facing front in a neat line
 
Sounds like he loaded all three darts into a single long barrel in a line and fired them from a very high power/volume blaster. A singled drainblaster would be similar today.

I see, that makes sense!

I'm thinking a tri-barrel setup would work wonders too, if we could somehow link the darts through the barrels. No clue how to do that, though. A stoppered slit would require extreme precision in its construction.

Has there ever been a blaster that had a 'moving cap' between the darts and the pressure chamber, pushing the darts indirectly by pushing the backing surface? Like a t-shirt gun?



#364080 Multi-impact darts?

Posted by Xhosant on 15 July 2019 - 06:06 PM in Darts and Barrels

Results: When fired from my singled tagger titan(sink drain adaptor), with darts loaded normally (head to tail, head to tail, facing forward): hit the wall at 60 feet with no drop, in a fantastic triangle, then wrapped around some metal tubes.


Can someone help me parse this? What's a sink drain adaptor? What's the setup discussed?

@TheSilverhead



#364079 Multi-impact darts?

Posted by Xhosant on 15 July 2019 - 03:24 PM in Darts and Barrels

You might find this thread helpful!

http://nerfhaven.com...rf-bolo-rounds/


That's bloody amazing! Especially the triple-shot guy sounds spot on, though there's some terminology I'll need to google.

I want to apply this to the dreaded s-word, after all.



#364068 Multi-impact darts?

Posted by Xhosant on 10 July 2019 - 04:07 AM in Darts and Barrels

It's not too tough a technical problem, but string tends to trip people so it's a bit of a safety hazard, and imagine trying to untangle a bin full of darts connected by string.  


Well, we'll not go with meter-long strings :P Management could be a pain, depending on how it is done.



#364064 Multi-impact darts?

Posted by Xhosant on 09 July 2019 - 12:53 AM in Darts and Barrels

So some crazy genius created a thing called multi-impact bullets (image link below). Long story short, it's a bullet that splits in 3 string-linked shots when fired. The intention is a wide-area shot (like a shotgun round) that is nevertheless more controlled than a shotgun round.

http://static1.squar...format=original

I figured, this meshes nicely with our blasters' low precision, between the wider area and each 'sub-bullet' forcing the other 2 to diverge less.

Has anyone tried to build such a thing? Any obvious issues with the idea I'm missing?



#364063 2 approaches at bypassing rev-up delay on flywheels

Posted by Xhosant on 08 July 2019 - 11:32 PM in Homemades

Welp, here I was, thinking I was contributing.



#364058 2 approaches at bypassing rev-up delay on flywheels

Posted by Xhosant on 08 July 2019 - 02:06 PM in Homemades

The pullcord could attach to the flywheel, so size isn't an issue, though the question of speed is valid.

As for a capacitor, the battery's power is not an issue. The short of it is, the capacitor can take its time charging, which in this case means that it can double the battery's output - briefly - after charging for an amount of time comparable to this boost's duration.

Does the theory make sense?



#364043 Weird Plan

Posted by Xhosant on 05 July 2019 - 09:34 AM in Homemades

Not much experience here, but I'm not sure this would work as hoped.

If I understand, you want to double the force behind the dart by doubling the propelling mechanism.

The first issue is that the Y connector is a whole lot of empty space, eating up your precious pressure. That means a double-volume chamber (which doesn't need to be twice as big) can do better than that, with fewer modifications.

This wouldn't solve issue #2: your barrel length needs to be relative to your chamber, so the pressure built is exhausted just as the dart gets out: too long, and the dart ends up suffering friction from the barrel for no payoff. Too short, and not only is the remaining pressure wasted, it follows the dart out of the barrel, creating turbulence and destabilizing the dart.

That would mean that for a double-chamber rainbow pistol (or a twice as big chamber), you'll need an approximately double-length barrel, making it no longer a pistol.



#364042 2 approaches at bypassing rev-up delay on flywheels

Posted by Xhosant on 05 July 2019 - 09:03 AM in Homemades

After a round of questions over at the electronics stack exchange (linked below), I have 2 ideas for peer review.

My limited experience says that the standard way to decrease rev-up delay is the use of stronger batteries,but that comes with some downsides, like cost.

Idea #1 was presented by the top answer in SE, the use of capacitors to have the same battery deliver a bigger burst of speed on rev-up.

Idea #2 is a spring-powered pullcord, primed as a spring blaster, revving the wheel mannualy.

Thoughts?

https://electronics....t1121166_446848



#363105 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 14 June 2018 - 09:27 AM in Modifications

 

I'm personally not familiar with the actual implementation of building gearboxes, but if it's something you're comfortable with doing, by all means!

 

I don't think there is much documentation on gear manufacture within the hobby (that I know of), so I think it'd be an excellent content addition, regardless of how well/janky/clean it ends up being.

 

It shouldn't be all that complicated. the principles are quite simple. I'm more worried about finding/making a casing than the actual gears :P




#363103 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 14 June 2018 - 03:35 AM in Modifications

 

Yep! That's the one.

 

Yes, you've read it correctly - I might've forgotten to clarify, though, I'm not sure if you've tried opening up a swarmfire or stampede before, but they actually have gearboxes built-in.

 

I haven't taken a good look at the numbers, but I'll give it a go:

Stampedes on around 7.2V-9V and the stock "2kg" spring (so about 1kg force on average?) achieve about 3 dps (i.e. 180 rpm), if I recall correctly.

The arm radius of the final gear pushing the plunger is about 3cm, I believe, which results in a torque of 1kg*3cm = 3kgcm = 0.29Nm on the whole stampede motor/gearbox setup.

The motor at 9.6V (no gearbox) operates at 20krpm, and 0.0104Nm at peak efficiency, so comparing this with the operation post-gearbox:

20krpm -> 180rpm {111x reduction speed}

0.0104Nm -> 0.29Nm {29x torque increase}

 

Now, these are super ballpark figures (you might've noticed that my voltage isn't that consistent, 7.2V to like 9.6V is a pretty big range lol), but it seems that your estimation of 100-150:1 seem perfectly reasonable.

 

With regards to sourcing, I've tried checking out eBay, but for some reason the gearbox numbers aren't advertised too well. I think a good bet would be to check out the gearbox figures on eBay, and the behaviour associated with the yellow gearboxes in XSW kits, then compare them to the motors that they tend to use, and from there, you can estimate the reduction values of the gearboxes. Unfortunately, this does link back to one of the earlier posts, which was pretty much "Just buy some gearboxes and try them until something works!", but now it seems like we've gotten to the point where we do know how to make adjustments from initial tests.

 

Mind linking the calculator? Power out/W column is likely the mechanical output power, which is the omega*torque thing you managed to calculate a few posts back.

 

http://www.wentec.co...ower_torque.asp

 

Well, I suppose building the gearbox out of gears isn't that tough. You'd need perhaps 2 pairs of gears, at half and 6 cm or 1 and 12 cm (since the square root of 150 is 12ish, that's the size ratio we want to be fine with just 2 pairs), link one pair on an axle and the other 2 on independent axles. Then, I guess the springer-pusher gear gets attached to the big 'outer' gear while the motor goes on the small one. Might get slightly bulky, but who cares? :P




#363101 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 13 June 2018 - 06:32 PM in Modifications

 

Nice pickup, that was definitely supposed to be 25.2rad/s.

 

I'd say it's a perfectly acceptable amount; swarmfires and stampedes run off 380-sized motors. Admittedly their gearboxes are a little bit big, but it's not a crazy size. Not to mention, now we have access to neo hellcats, 180 motors with similar operating characteristics (only slightly lower) to the swarmfire/stampede 380s.

 

For reference, there's a thread discussing the stampede motors, there's even a link to a data collection excel file somewhere in here:

https://www.reddit.c...ng_motor_specs/

 

You mean this one?

If I'm reading the simplified version correctly, most clock RPMs in the 10s of thousands, way above our 240RPM requirement.
Which is a good thing, since most seem to deliver 2 orders of magnitude under our needed stall torque. Right?

So, we've got 3 orders of magnitude to spare on the RPM, and need 2 orders to back us up on stall torque, so with a 100-150:1 gearbox, it should be able to make it with room to spare. Can one even find such a gearbox?

 

Also, an online calculator I found seems to be saying this whole thing equates to 30 watts. The complex version lists a "Power out/W" column, which I suppose is the peak wattage of the motor? Cause most don't get 30, but a good handful does.




#363086 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 12 June 2018 - 12:41 PM in Modifications

The simplest way to source (that I can think of, off the top of my head), would be to just pick the centrepoint of the operating region (i.e. half of max torque, which results in half of max RPM), and use that as your guideline for picking out a motor. Since you calculated operation of "0.64Nm and its rads/sec over 6.3-12.6.",  this would mean that your stall torque would be twice of the operating torque, as would your RPM. So you're looking for a motor that pushes about 1.28Nm and 25.2RPM. (This is assuming that we haven't messed up the numbers somehow)

 

For reference, the units would be watts for power output. Although I'm sure that you might've noticed, the power output of the motor isn't constant, so while it can be a useful way to get the ballpark performance of a motor, it isn't necessarily how you would define what motor you want to get.

I'm guessing this should be 1.28 Nm and 25.2 rads/sec, not RPMs (so about 240 RPM).

Which is very handy and concise, but it brings us to the next question: is that a lot? Am I looking at a rather weak and small motor, a little powerhouse, a car engine or what?  Haven't actually ever dealt in motors, as I guess is obvious by how much walking through the physics I needed :P




#363064 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 05 June 2018 - 04:53 PM in Modifications

 

No worries! I wasn't too clear about that.

 

I think you meant r = 4cm/π, instead of 0.4cm/π which should be 1.3cm radius, that seems about right! The angular velocity also seems reasonable.

 

Gah, of course! So we need a motor pulling off a torque of 1.3cm * 5kg or 0.013m*5kg or 0.065 kg M or 0.64 Nm, which seems unreasonably low, but I could be wrong there.

And it needs to do that at 60-120 RPMs (or 6.3-12.6 rads/s)

 

So its stalling torque should be over 0.64Nm and its rads/sec over 6.3-12.6.

Judging by section 3's bottom from the link, that means I want a maximum power on the motor of 4.03-8.06 ...units. What should the units be, for N*m*rad/sec?

 

And how does that translate to label characteristics for a motor?




#363058 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 05 June 2018 - 06:24 AM in Modifications

 

 

Yep! I did say diameter, but I should've said radius. And come to think of it, length is probably the wrong term for me to use, I should really use radius instead.

 

So sort of like you said, with a gear of radius 0.06m, and a force of 5N, you would result in a torque of  0.03Nm.

 

Just to check that we have an intuitive understanding, imagine you have a 1m arm outstretched, and you're holding an item that weighs 5N (so like 0.51kg or so), your muscles would have to generate 1m x 5N = 5Nm of torque to hold the object up. Similarly, with a gear of say, 6cm (or 0.06m) radius, with a force of 5kg (or 49N), we'd need a torque of 49N x 0.06m = 2.94Nm. Usually when speccing motors, people seem to like using kgcm for some weird reason (yuck, using kg as a unit of force), so it'd probably be more appropriate to describe the torque as 5kg x 6cm = 30kgcm. Note that this is the same value as 2.94Nm, just in different units.

TL;DR - (tangential force on spinning thing) x (radius of spinning thing) = (torque of spinning thing)

 

Now with omega, omega is basically rotation speed in a purer form, since we're using radians instead of rotations, or degrees. Once again, I should've said radius, not length. So like with a wheel, or a gear, if it's rotating at say, 2 radians/second, and it has a radius of 5m, then the surface velocity (the velocity on the surface of the wheel) of that wheel or gear would be 10m/s.

TL;DR - (omega of spinning thing) x (radius of spinning thing) = (surface velocity of spinning thing)

 

With the motor selection, yep, ideally you'd pick a motor/gearbox combination with an "nominal torque" and "nominal RPM" that's higher than both your required torque and RPM, keeping in mind that you can play around with torque and RPM a bit, depending on the gear that you choose (recall the gear radius we described earlier). However, such a motor may be difficult to find, and so we turn to the advertised performance curves: 

http://lancet.mit.ed...rs/motors3.html

(Go to section 3.1).

 

So I'm not sure if you've ever tried this, but you might notice that when you use your fingers to squeeze the shaft of a DC motor while it's operating, it slows down a bit. So this is described on the curve - at "free running RPM", where there's no torque, it spins really fast, but that RPM drops more if you put more torque on it. So another way of looking at the problem is by saying "right, this is how much torque I need", checking the graph, and finding out what RPM you get out of it. If the resulting RPM is fast enough to maintain a reasonable RoF, then yay, we've found a good choice! If not, then probably pick a different gear/motor/gearbox, and see if you can tweak it to get a good-enough RPM.

 

This can be a bit of a headache though, as I have found with a similar application - your required RPM depends on your gear size, and your torque requirement depends on your gear size, but you might have to adjust your gear size depending on your torque availability, and everything folds in onto one another. Generally speaking, this requires a few iterations of calculations and experimentation with different motors to see what performance you get. If you need more explanation, feel free to ask, my last paragraph on motors probably wasn't that clear.

 

But I think it's great that you're not just choosing the easy way out!

 

Oh, my bad! I figured by 'length' you meant how far the spring must be pulled back!

So, it must be pulled 6cm, which means we need a gear circumference of 6cm (plus some toothless section for the reset, so more like a minimum of 0.8), and since the formula seems to be C=2πr, we need a minimum r of 0.4/π cm, or about 0.13 cm. That's a tiny gear, so I'm probably doing something wrong...

 

In any case, we're hoping for an angular velocity of 2-4 π/s, or 1-2 full turns per second.

 

I'm low on time, so I'll review the details again later, but if you can spot the error on gear size (if any), that'd be great!




#363052 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 04 June 2018 - 03:02 PM in Modifications

Not sure how much information/background you have/need, so I'll just infodump and we can weed through stuff together, I suppose.

 

Now, I assume that you're using a motor to push a gear, bit like an XSW kit, and leaving the thing on slamfire.

So for the following equations, assume that length refers to the pitch diameter of the sector gear that the motor is driving.

 

Calculating the amount of torque the motor needs:

http://hyperphysics....base/torq2.html

This should give a quick overview of translating torque to force and vice versa.

TL;DR - torque = length x force

 

Translating RPM and omega:

Here's how to translate RPM to rad/s, because that's more useful for our calcs.

https://sciencing.co...ns-8343758.html

Here's a calculator if you're lazy

https://www.convertu...o/radian/second

 

Translating omega and velocity:

tangential velocity = omega x length

 

So that's basically how to calculate required operating RPM and torque. Now, you don't actually have to get a motor that fits this - you can use a gearbox, which messes with the torque and rpm outputs, via mechanical advantage, but I'm guessing you already thought of that. Hope this is useful, feel free to ask for more/less detail, I'm more just dumping this info so we have a starting point for discussion.

 

Alternatively you could just get a swarmfire or speedswarm, but hey, R&D is always cool to see.

 

Now we're talking! Our torque will need to be 0.06 X 5 or 0.3 newton meters (am I doing this right?)

 

And for a simple 1-2 shots/second, we need a tangential velocity of 0.06-0.12 m/sec. But what's the omega, and what length are we referring to?

Then we'll have the minimum torque and rpm (or with a gearbox, their minimum product) and anything over that does it. Right?

Sure, i could go straight for the reasonable approach of getting a blaster that does what I'm trying to do, but I guess I'm kinda in love with the disruptor's feel. Might be just that it's my first nerf :P




#363029 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 31 May 2018 - 08:30 AM in Modifications

Yea, but that... doesn't answer the question.




#363019 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 29 May 2018 - 12:55 PM in Modifications

Well, I'm... kind of looking for the minimum sufficient. I could put it up on a car engine if I wanted to, and it would work (or get crushed), but I'm more looking for the line between 'works' and 'doesn't' so I can see what works and what doesn't.




#363011 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 17 May 2018 - 07:07 PM in Modifications

That's with the whole 'addon' thing too. If it works as planned, I won't have to do the slightest modification to the Disruptor; i'll pick it out of its box, slide the motor's base on the rail, pin the rack on the primer by the little holes in the back, and be done!



#363010 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 17 May 2018 - 07:04 PM in Modifications

I have the construction figured out: the motor and gear is fitted on the Disruptor's rail, and a 'gear rack' (long straight bit with gear teeth on the side) is fitted to the priming handle's front and back features. The gear is missing a couple teeth, letting the rail and primer slide back into 'loose' position once per rotation (tuned so this happens just after the full draw), and with the circuit completing through either contacts on the gear (with a small gap) or the pressed trigger, I get the motor to stop after a cycle unless/until I got the trigger pressed.

The question is on the motors themselves. What wattage do I need? What other specs? What does it take for a mottor to lift 5 kg across 6cm in 0.5 seconds?



#363007 Motor-primed Springer help

Posted by Xhosant on 17 May 2018 - 11:39 AM in Modifications

I'm thinking about a mod (well, more like an addon if I get my way) for a Disruptor that would turn it into full-auto.

I did some measurements. Priming the Disruptor requires pulling back 6cm, for a peak force between 4.6 and 5.2 kg (let's assume 5).

So the question is, what kind of motor specs would I need to pull 6cm against 5kg of force in about half to one second?



#362613 Averaging shots for higher accuracy?

Posted by Xhosant on 21 February 2018 - 11:43 AM in Homemades

That is because you effectively made a bigger shot for a bigger blaster, which is quite cool :P

But the test needs the darts loosely connected. We need them each to be free to fly badly individually, so that these tendencies can be combined into a hopefully perfect average.



#362598 Averaging shots for higher accuracy?

Posted by Xhosant on 19 February 2018 - 11:24 PM in Homemades

Oh crap, I forgot! It is crucial that the blaster's position is as identical compared to the paper between shots as possible! That means you want the target always in the same spot, and the blaster either placed against a marked bit of a furniture or even caught in a vice if you have one. Otherwise, I can't tell how much of the result is inconsistent shooting and how much is our trick.



#362590 Averaging shots for higher accuracy?

Posted by Xhosant on 18 February 2018 - 07:42 PM in Homemades

Not sure, but between chalk dust, stamp ink pads, or bottled ink it should work. Food coloring might do, even!



#362569 Averaging shots for higher accuracy?

Posted by Xhosant on 16 February 2018 - 05:46 PM in Homemades

Hmm, let's see. First, we need the bullet. Get each of the three shots' tips tied to a thin thread, and to a shared knot, like, 2 or 3 cm of thread between the center knot and each tip. Key here is that the string length is as identical as possible for each of the shots: you need perfect 3-side symmetry.

On the actual test, there's two ways about it. One is to set a camera, shoot at a wall several times (some vanilla, some with the tied shot) from behind the camera, send me the video and I'll do the math. Option two, dip the tips in ink, use a white surface, take photos of it after each shot, clean it, repeat, send me the pics and I do the math. Option 3, pick a target, try it several times stringed and not,check what feels better :P



#362565 Averaging shots for higher accuracy?

Posted by Xhosant on 16 February 2018 - 05:03 PM in Homemades

Awesome! Here I was, having written off the experiment, and you're making it happen! Thanks, bud!



#362563 Averaging shots for higher accuracy?

Posted by Xhosant on 16 February 2018 - 04:54 PM in Homemades

Anyone here have one to try it out?



#362272 Plunger tube shape significance?

Posted by Xhosant on 16 January 2018 - 06:22 PM in Homemades

Now this! This is bloody awesome! What kind of variables can it take?



#362221 Flywheel ammo length?

Posted by Xhosant on 10 January 2018 - 04:23 PM in Darts and Barrels

It's not a bad design on its own, it's just that it has lots of moving parts, lots of special requirements, and 'just' doubles capacity for it.

If it helps, I can propose the following design, which should work for less trouble and most stock blasters (even springers). Basically, several (or just two) mags in series, sitting against a single, sliding 'top' of the mag, serving as an adapter to the magwell. As the lined-up mag empties, you automatically or manually (I'd go manually) shift the mags, so the next one is in line.

Alternatively, the principle of Khaos magazines can work for stefans.



#362219 Flywheel ammo length?

Posted by Xhosant on 10 January 2018 - 02:39 PM in Darts and Barrels

This is similar to my blower fed thing. I tested it with a string at one point, friction was *super* high, so Im not cleae wether thatd work or not.

A zipper that needs to be kept in tube form and unzipps to make the belt seems like a lot more work than just the tube and a blower.

 

To be clear, I'm talking about linking the zipper's fabric ends around to themselves (by full fabric or just string on each dart), resulting in a tube that contains the darts and opens up to a belt as it is pulled forward and emptied.

Well, a blower has more and more resistance the longer you go, while this system would not be affected by its size for the most part (at some point the coil would be too heavy to be spun and unraveled without extra power, but you're talking emplacement at this size anyway).

If you don't mind dart wear, which is credible with stefans, you could go just with a string parallel to the darts and threads piercing them to keep them in place. Then, as you draw more ammo, the string is pulled and coiled out of the way, right after passing by a small razor that severs the threads, leaving the darts freed from the feeding mechanism but confined in their barrel and ready to be pushed in the flywheels by the next dart.




#362216 Flywheel ammo length?

Posted by Xhosant on 10 January 2018 - 04:30 AM in Darts and Barrels

Thread derailed, bit I'll do you one better.

Make a tube out of zip, so that it snuggly hugs stefans, and proceed to fill it with them. Build a flywheel with an extra motor pulling the zip forward (that's your trigger) with the zip's 'handle' being static. As the tube is pulled forward, its front end opens to release the dart, while the next, still-snug dart pushes it into the flywheels.

Proceed to make the tube ridiculously long and coil it around a wheel, for a simple belt-fed flywheel of indeterminately large capacity.



#362051 Plunger tube shape significance?

Posted by Xhosant on 02 December 2017 - 10:22 AM in Homemades

Probably, but then youve got a one-shot blaster and you might as well do a pneumatic.


Unless you're loading shells, like the FAR.

Edit your first post rather than double post in a short time period.
Boltsniper and DOOM did some theoretical calculations. One of them may even have the formula youre looking for, but I may be confusing what Im thinking is it with some other formula they came up with. Dont have time to go looking ATM.


Sorry, will do. I know Boltsniper's Barrel Length Formula, but no idea where to look elsewhere. Anyone know?



#362049 Plunger tube shape significance?

Posted by Xhosant on 02 December 2017 - 03:04 AM in Homemades

On another note, has anyone derived a math formula describing the whole spring-pushes-plunger-pushes-air-pushes-dart process? I figure it would answer a whole lot of future questions automatically.



#362048 Plunger tube shape significance?

Posted by Xhosant on 02 December 2017 - 02:39 AM in Homemades

Slower plunger = lower max pressure in the powertrain.


Could a blast disk help with that?



#362045 Plunger tube shape significance?

Posted by Xhosant on 01 December 2017 - 11:57 AM in Homemades

1. I'll go check! Hope the photobucket issues don't stop me from understanding. Edit: found the updated version. Lovely!

3. I get that, it was point #4 that I needed elaborating on!

Still, I am slowly making sense! Thanks bunches!



#362043 Plunger tube shape significance?

Posted by Xhosant on 01 December 2017 - 05:25 AM in Homemades

KaneTheMediocre's solution of using yarn is clever and meets this criteria perfectly.

Where can I find that?

2. The ID of the barrel is a source of restriction with being able to pump a higher volume ratio of air quickly. The end of the plunger tube being a huge ratio of area transition can throttle plunger velocity since it starts to starve. You scale plunger diameter up more readily when the bore diameter is also scaling up.

So if I'm getting this, going from a wide chamber to a narrow barrel limits the speed at which air can get out of tge chamber, causing resistance for the spring?

4. There's a trade-off and a dynamic relationship between how fast you can get the plunger going, and how much volume it has to work with in the time frame in which it is accelerating. If you lower the velocity, you lower the potential peak impulse of pressure that the plunger can reach. This pressure impulse determines what pressure level the plunger can reach even in the event of there being leaks present. And you basically have to think of the dart as being a slow leak.

Ok, I don't quite get that at all, past the core principle. Could you elaborate?



#362036 Plunger tube shape significance?

Posted by Xhosant on 30 November 2017 - 12:30 PM in Homemades

Well, that is helpful, but not quite the question: the question would be, if I went for 2 inches area but shortened the chamber to keep volume at 1 inch^3, what would happen?



#362034 Plunger tube shape significance?

Posted by Xhosant on 30 November 2017 - 10:56 AM in Homemades

*facepalm* i fail math yet again.

I get the friction and leak points (both come down to circumference), but could you elaborate on the spring limitations?



#362032 Plunger tube shape significance?

Posted by Xhosant on 30 November 2017 - 10:33 AM in Homemades

I've noticed, everyone focuses on spring strength and plunger tube volume, but does the length:radius ratio of the tube matter?

Like, gun A and gun B both have very silly proportions. A has a radius 1cm, but a whole 100cm in length, while B is just 1cm long but 100cm wide. (Whoever made them was obviously trying to make a point.) Since both clock at 100cm^2, do they perform equally? And would a 10x10cm perform better? Most importantly, why?



#362012 Averaging shots for higher accuracy?

Posted by Xhosant on 25 November 2017 - 07:23 AM in Homemades

Isn't that what we're doing, emphasis on 'theoretical' this time around? :P

But you have a solid point on air distribution. It will have to be custom-made, with the 3 paths mirrored. So much for the easy way through.