$15 at most since you can get a more up-to-date and cooler looking version of the Barricade for $15 shipped from Walmart:

https://www.walmart....laster/54808485

Is this an instance where solarbotics rm2 motors could come in handy using 4 nimh rechargable aa's?

My friend (owner of blaster) isn't too hardcore into nerf and doesn't feel like doing a rewire, resistors for lights/sound fx, seperate batteries for motors and light/sound fx, lipo or nimh packs, nor is he looking for top tier performance. Neither of us want to mess up or mess with the light/sound fx either.

All he really wants its a little better dart velocity (fps and range). not too worried about wind-up or re-wind up between shots. Just single shot velocity.

So as far as I know, that leaves us with using 2 imr's and 2 dummie cells with stock motors (hoping the little extra voltage won't destoy the lights/sound fx), OR using different motors that can deliver higher dart velocity (only single shot fps, not follow up shot/windup/rewind up) using stock 4.8 volts from 4 nimh aa's.

I know rhino's or 180's and lipo with full rewire is the best way to go and what everyone will suggest, but neither of us want to deal with the extra lights/sounds in the blaster since we are both big star wars fans....

So, out of the two combinations (2 imr 2 dummie aa stock motors /or/ 4 nimh aa and rm2 motors) we are considering, which would be best for single shot fps? Stock motors at 7.4v via 2 imr's, or rm2 motors at 4.8v via 4 nimh aa's?

We are thinking that the light/sound effects would prefer the 4.8volt rm2 setup more than the 7.4volt imr setup but not sure which would provide higher single shot fps (again not worried about windup, follow up shots, rewindup, just single shot velocity)

So tell me what you think.

The RM2 route would technically have slightly higher performance than stock motors at 4.8v. However, their lifespan are ridiculously short. Some people have reported their RM2 just surviving no more than one nerf battle. In terms of raw performance and overall reliability, IMR is your best bet. Only go with the RM2 if you're willing to open up the blaster and replace (not swap) the motors after every fight. Yes, they're that terrible. 

Also, note that the Captain Cassian Deluxe blaster is already being discounted/set to clearance at many Target stores around the US. They're ranging in price from  $25 to $40 (a lot less than the $80 MSRP). So if you're that worried about ruining a one of a kind blaster, you can get a better replacement now. 

INR should be ok. 

The charger seems fine. But I've never tried protected IMR batteries so I can't vouch for them. Nor have I ever heard of Olight IMRs so I can't vouch for them either. I can only vouch for the eFest IMRs. They were recommended by Bobololo:

https://youtu.be/iufP-rrmYgI?t=286

I used IMRs with the stock Stryfe wiring for half a year without an issue. Then I did a rewire since I saw firsthand that IMRs can burn out stock Rayven switches. 

I am def more interested in a milled aluminum cage than any plastic cages.

Is it generally agreed upon that non-canted are better than canted for accuracy and velocity?

Are there any aftermarket flywheels lighter than the plastic worker wheels?

Based on available information, ye non-canted are are better than canted.

No, pretty much all aftermarket flywheels weigh more than the stock and Worker wheels. The Worker flywheels are the lightest aftermarket flywheels out there at the moment. 

Well first of all, I live in Canada where they don't sell efest imrs. So, that's not an option. The batteries here are $20 for 2 imrs, and $30 for a safe charger; that's $50 CAD. To put that in perspective, I could buy a tristrike or rampage with that money. Trust fires are $20 for 6 batteries and a charger. Also, I don't plan on replacing the internals when they die. Thrifting a stryfe isn't all that hard.

You can't buy efest IMRs off eBay?:

http://www.ebay.com/...7.N36.S1.R1.TR2

Also, you don't need a $30 CAD charger when this $17 CAD does the job just fine:

https://www.amazon.c...1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use the exact same charger with then above EFEST batteries just fine. If my math is right, you're looking at $30 CAD for an IMR + charger setup. $10 CAD more than the Trustfires but significantly better in every single way possible. 

In my neck of the woods, it's quite hard to thrift Stryfes. Relatively easy to get replacement/upgrade parts though.

Instead of imr batteries, I've decided to go with ultrafires as they are much cheaper. I know that they are no where near as good as imrs, but I can't spend a lot on batteries now... It looks like I will use two ultrafires and two dummy batteries (roughly 7.4 volts). I just have four more questions: 1. For bypassing the thermistor, the goal is to make the two wires touch, right? So I can either twist them together, or connect them with a wire right (e tape a wire in place)? 2. Would running 7.4 volts hurt the internals drastically? I don't want burnt wires or anything... Although, the motors will probably burn out eventually. 3. How long do my internals have before dying? 4. What fps should I expect with 7.4 volts?
Thanks!
Bubba

If you're worried about cost of $10 shipped for 2 EFEST IMR batteries, that tells me that you can't afford to replace the internals of the Stryfe when they die. Which means you shouldn't be doing this mod in the first place. 

I agree 2 IMRs should be fine and 3 IMRs might be pushing however, i have no idea if this will or whether it will break or stryfe but maybe if you want max voltage without burning out the motors maybe you could run 2 IMRs 1 regular Duracell and 1 dummy could possibly give you max voltage without blowing out your motors but take my word for it I have no idea if this would work.  

In general, you don't mix battery chemistries like that. You massively increase the risk of fire/burns that way. So two IMRs and two dummys or four duracells. Don't mix the two. 

It would be ok for a day worth of games. But any longer than that and you're risking damage. I would only recommend using 2 IMRS on stock wiring if you're 100% set/sure/able to replace the internals when the stock wiring, switch, and motors give out. With a rewire, two IMRs is just fine. Don't use 3 IMRs without a rewire. 3 IMRs is still a bit of a risk even with a rewire but worthwhile risk if you're set/sure/able to replace the motors later when they burn out. 

I am SO sorry about that. You had been sticking your gun out from the corner, and I was waiting for you to do that again, but then you popped your face out at the same height and I didn't think before squeezing the trigger. All I saw was your glasses fall halfway off, and I thought I nailed you in the eye point-blank. Glad you were okay.

No worries man, I would have done the exact same thing if I were in your shoes. All part of the fun! Thanks again for being an great loudspeaker/co-host! 

Assorted Highlights for my first Armageddon:

• Zeke having a negligent discharge and accidentally nailing one of our team-mates right in the back with an Artifact. We all laughed it off!
• I turned the corner at the wrong time and got hit point-blank range in the chin by a home-made blaster with an slug I think? Either way, that's my "Purple Heart" story of the war!
• Ended up having a hostage during one of the freeze tag games. The hostage would get tagged back in via blaster but would end up not making more than a foot before I shot him again. 
• Trying to tag a team-mate back in with my blaster but missing every single shot
• Leaning that six Worker 22 magazines is actually not enough ammo for a single fight.
• Squealing every time one of the zing bow arrows narrowly missed hitting me. 
• The awesome hosts!
• The sheer number of darts that were picked up after every dart sweep was an astonishing sight!
• The quick mini rounds we had during the lunch period

I've had good luck with Little Valentines and 6Miles. 

Possibly little chance of it now but try to hit up your local Walmart and discount store as they may have the 12 pack Buzz Bee Air Max darts for $1. I say little chance of it now because I was the dick that bought up the last 10 pack of those Air Max darts at my local Walmart

So is it fairly agreed upon that waffle tip darts are more accurate/consistent than koosh darts?

I guess I can deal with slightly lower velocity and range if the accuracy/consistency is better.

Yes. 

Why have they stopped making them? The blaster isn't discontinued.

The EAT was literally only one store away from being discontinued. Kohl's was the only major store in the US still ordering and selling new EATs. However, if you check the Kohl's website, the EAT is no longer available. So for all intents and purposes, it's practically discontinued. 

Well i'm thinking at the moment, it'll use stock darts. cause to me.. Makes more sense as i own a fair few mags. But as it's a Clear blue blaster, i wanna show off the internals so i'm debating the Artifact Blotsled or wait for DRS to re-stock his own cause i fear the blue will scratch and ware over time

So you're looking more for aesthetics than practicality, correct?

As noted earlier, in terms of practicality, a 5kg spring by itself or even 7kg spring + catch spring upgrade is all that you really need to do performance wise. Since the Retaliator has been out for so long, you can easily find guides on how to use the stock barrel, grip, and practically any found material to convert the Retaliator into a pump grip. 

However, if you want a better looking pump grip and/or style setup, that "Worker Mod Pump Kit combo six items for the Retaliator (Clear)" looks pretty damn awesome. The only major issue I see with it is cost but the pricing is kinda justified.  

For the Artifact gear, you really have to double check to make sure that they work with stock Nerf parts and not their own Artifact parts. 

200 minimum. 400 if possible. I say 200 minimum since it allows you to reload your magazines and Hammershot at least twice and assuming that you're a very frugal shot. But 400 darts for a 3 day event sounds more...plausible. 

Yeah it would probably be best to order 100 waffle and 100 koosh to test myself.

Anyone happen to ever see any glow in the dark koosh darts?
I'm really wanting glow darts for my firefly clip. Seen glow waffle tips plenty of times but can't seem to find glow koosh not a deal breaker for koosh, but would be nice

Haven't seen any 3rd party glow-in-the-dark darts in the wild. Also, I don't think I've ever seen Koosh darts in packs of 100. I usually see and order them in packs of 200:

http://www.ebay.com/...-/352023031554?

http://www.ebay.com/...ve/171303996691

Both if possible. But as noted in your other thread, i really wouldn't recommend going the Artifact cage route as long you're using stock motors. 

I was planning on an artifact canted flywheel cage/concave flywheels.
Will the artifact flywheels slow the motors and in turn slow the darts down?

Yes but not by a large margin.

Just a FYI, you won't be getting the full benefits of an Artifact wheel and cage with stock motors. If you're going to stick with IMRs, just upgrade the flywheels, wiring, and call it a day. The cage is just not worth it IMO for stock motors. 

When I finally replace flywheels I absolutely want them to be lighter than stock if possible with canted cage, or atleast no heavier than stock flywheels.

There aren't many solid 3rd party Flywheels that are actually lighter than stock. They're generally all heavier than stock:

https://docs.google....se3g/edit#gid=0

I highly recommend watching this recent Nerf Youtuber's video review on the more common flywheels and their performance:

This google doc from the above video is an updated version of the previously linked Google docs with correct installation of the BP wheels and waffle darts:

https://docs.google....TrRc/edit#gid=0

From what I've read, the Worker plastic concave ridged flywheels seem to be the lightest, but I'm not positive if they would work right in a metal canted cage, or if those only work in stock cages or even only non canted cages?

Standard metal cage over canted metal cage? I thought everybody aggreed that canted was better? I could have easily misread though

Unless you're in a rush, I'd wait until more updated reviews comes out comparing all the different cages. The youtuber I linked above is supposedly planning on testing multiple cages against each other. With that said, the Artifact canted cage require Artifact flywheels. 

It's only with 3rd party flywheel cages that have a high crush or 3rd party highly serrated flywheels is where FVJs aren't quite the best choices. For stock or normal crush/flywheel styles, FVJ is fine. 

Yes that's normal for Goodwills not to have Nerf blasters. The three Goodwills near my home has not had a single nerf blaster since I began thrifting for Nerf blasters. You should check out other non-goodwill Thrift stores if there's any in your area. Also, discount shops may occasionally have a good deal on a blaster. Still more costly than Goodwill but cheaper than sales price. 

A lot of Nerf Wars don't allow for the use of FVJs. With that said, I use FVJs for general plinking and screwing around at home purposes, That means that my actual "war" practical darts still remain relatively fresh for use. Haven't had any issues using FVJs in either my upgraded flywheels or upgraded springers. 

Koosh will fly farther than the Waffle darts but the waffle darts are a tad more accurate. If you're playing in more open fields with relatively little cover, I'd go with Koosh for the range advantage. If you're playing in an area with lots of cover and therefore more instance of close-up firing, go with the waffle darts. Or you could go with both like I do and change them out for the situation. 

Instead of going the improved motor route for a performance increase, you could go with improved flywheels. According to NOBACON, the Hooligan flywheels does provide an increase of an average 20 FPS on stock Stryfe motors:

Do note that it may take 2-3 weeks for the Hooligan fly-ass wheels to arrive. At least that's how long they took for me so far. 

Kelly Industries prints and sells the OFP Rayven cage if Shapeways is too expensive:

https://ahalekelly.c...l-project-cage/

With shipping, mine came out to about $14 to $15 USD or so.