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#361461 2017 Contest Entries

Posted by EricTzH on 31 August 2017 - 02:32 PM in General Nerf



Rapid Red Shell Integration, LEDs and Mods

Blasters involved: Rapid Red and Distruptor 

Category: Modification

#361460 Rapid Red Writeup: Shell Integration, LEDs & Modification

Posted by EricTzH on 31 August 2017 - 02:26 PM in Modifications

Before reading this,
I highly suggest to Watch The Timelapse Videofirst:
Project Overview:
This writeup is about my rapid red modification and shell integration. I will be using this blaster mainly for CQB and HvZ games. I choose Rapid Red is because they are the most affordable option to try new stuffs, compared to many other flywheel blaster after the discontinued of Stryfe. 
- For HvZ and CQB Games
- Operatable by a single hand (as another hand will be holding a foam sword) 
-Lights up my way at night (while eye friendly) 
- Medieval Classical Feel (Because I love it!) 
- LED design that looks cool
- Solve small handle problem 
Things I've Done
- DIY Stock made by lightweight material 
-  Shell Integration : Adding new Handle from Distruptor's (the "New Strongarm" ), Distruptor's Priming Slide for Stabilizing Stock. 
- Internal Modification : Meishel 2.0 Motor
- Paintjob 
- Others: Quick Mag Releases, LED wiring 
General Mod Material
-Epoxy Putty: Wood and WaterWeld
-Epoxy Gel
-DAP contact cement 
-Semi Transparent Plastic Folder
-LEDs Diode and Resistor 
- UPC pipe
Wiring Materials:
-Meishel 2.0 Motor
-Submianiture microswitch
-18 Gauge Silicon Wire
-950mAH Li Po (Not recommended for Stryfe, for Stryfe use this for higher amperage : 1300 mAH Li Po) 
-Dremel Rotary Tool and Attachments: Grinder, Sanding, Enforced Cutting Wheel
-Hack Saw
-Soldering Iron and Solder
-Wire Striper and Wire Cutter
-Hot glue gun and Hot glue sticks 
Paintjob Material
-V&F Black Automotive Base Coat
-Aged Copper Spray Paint
-Cheap Acrylic Paint from Walmart: Black White Red Blue Yellow 
-Antique Gold Acrylic Paint 
-Wheel Clear Coat
Step 1: Disassembly 
All parts from Rapid Red are disassembled. 
Remove some internal parts in Distruptor that is close to the Handle, Take out the Priming Slide. 
Step 2: Shell Cut
Cut off the Rapid Red Handle, then throw it away. 
Cut off Distruptor Handle
Some trimming will be needed to allign the new handle to the rapid red. 
Cut off the "back half" of the Priming Slide, This will be used to hold the DIY stock. 
Step 3: Combining Shell
Drill a hole at the back part of the blaster. 
I use contact cement to temporarily hold the handle before apply epoxy putty.
Applying Epoxy Putty on Handle and the Priming Slide to Rapid Red Body
Using Epoxy Gel as internal reinforcement (But then I realised SmoothCast is a way more cheaper option)
Step 4: DIY Stock 
Cut out your choice of pipe(I use UPC not PVC here), apply epoxy putty to stick them to the blaster.
I choose a  rubber flat vacuum wand I thrifted from Goodwill, because it is lighter than plastic and wood.
Rubber vacuum wand flex a lot, so applying epoxy putty directly wouldn't works. I nailed a small piece of wood on it ( I get this wood for free, you can get some small wood in Walmart DIY Crafting area )
Step 5: LED Holes
Use a sharpie to mark out places that I want to cut a hole
Use Dremel drilling attachment to drill the holes
Sand the cutted holes so it looks smooth
We need something to dilute the LED lights. Cut off some semi-transparent plastic sheet(I use semi-transparent plastic folder), hot glue them to those holes.
Step 6: Paint Job 
Sand the body of Rapid Red
Base coat using Automotive Vinyl and Fabric Black
Glue Gun Drawing, set the temperature to High, and draw the pattern.
Base coat again on Hot Glue patterns, using Automotive Vinyl and Fabric Black as well
Aged Copper Spray Paint
Adding black Acrylic Paint(mixed with around 1-1 water)for blackish shadow effect
Use a Dry brush/ Sponge, rub some dry gold paint on it.
Paint a layer of Black Acrylic Paint at the bottom half.
After the black paint dries, mix red paint with a little bit of water, brush on the black surface, rub it with your finger/fabric. To make it bloooodyyy cool.
Step 7: Internal Wiring and Necessary Shell Cut
I use Meishel 2.0 motor, subminiature switch and 18 gauge wire.
Some parts are needed to be grind off (Dremel grinning atachment) in order to fit the Li Po
Test motor spinning direction
Step 8: LEDs and Magazine Fit
Before closing the shell, I tried a couple times of reopening the whole thing, readjusting and do extra shell trimming, so that it fits the magazine, rev trigger and able to be closed .



#360852 Flywheel and Cage Questions

Posted by EricTzH on 30 June 2017 - 03:04 AM in Modifications


  1. Brushless motors don't have the metal/carbon brushes that traditional brushed motors have. Most aftermarket cages are designed to accommodate stock-geometry (traditional) motors, and thus cannot accommodate brushless motors. Your Meishel motors are brushed and will fit in most any cage. You don't want a canted cage, those impart spin which hasn't been shown to improve anything about the dart trajectory.
  2. Hooligan or Containment Crew are the current top performers IIRC, with worker and artifact being solid choices. I've seen reports of overtight fit from hooligan. You don't want metal or toothed wheels.

Make sure your battery is up to running Meishels - they're Amp hogs, stalling at more than double the amps a Rhino does each. You need two motors, so you're talking ~37 amps at stall (vs. ~16 for rhinos).


due to im using it on a Rapid Red, i choose a smaller battery: https://hobbyking.co...?___store=en_us . Not sure if it will works well. may i know is that 37 amps is refer to constant or burst?



Capacity: 950mAh
Voltage: 2S1P / 2 Cell / 7.4V
Discharge: 25C Constant / 50C Burst

#360846 Flywheel and Cage Questions

Posted by EricTzH on 29 June 2017 - 07:45 PM in Modifications

I wish to get a battery cage and flywheel for my stryfe but i some questions that Google couldn't answer me:

1. What is the meaning of "Brushless" cage or motor? Is that okay to use brushless cage for non-brushless motor? 
(mine is Meishel 2.0 motor, which I believe its not a brushless motor)

2. How to choose a flywheel to buy?
( I saw there's many brand of flywheel in etsy,  each brands has different type of flywheel too, while I saw worker produced metal flywheel which looks cool but not sure if thats practical.. is there any way to check their specs/any judging methods besides of using the "more expensive means better performance" approach?)

#360792 bloomington Illinois Nerf club

Posted by EricTzH on 26 June 2017 - 01:23 PM in Nerf Wars

I just requested to join the group.

Currently im studying in Southern Illinois University Carbondale and also having a hard time to start a nerf war here. Im willing to come Bloomington and volunteer for any help if you need.

#360790 Nerfers around Southern Illinois? Let's host some games.

Posted by EricTzH on 26 June 2017 - 12:52 PM in Nerf Wars

I am in  illinois 

Sorry just opened Nerf Haven and saw your post. May I have your information like Facebook and which part of the state through PM? I will add you into the group

#360479 HvZ EndWar: How many darts to bring?

Posted by EricTzH on 10 June 2017 - 01:20 PM in General Nerf

Im joining the upcoming HvZ EndWar in Ohio University for all 3 days, and currently I want to order some darts from Amazon.


Any suggestions on how many darts shall I prepare?

Or, how many darts will you prepare based on your experience ?


*I will be playing with a Stryfe(w/ five 18-magazines), and a Hammershot, both modded.

#360340 Rapid Red Rewiring & Motor Questions

Posted by EricTzH on 04 June 2017 - 11:23 AM in Modifications


I was not dividing. Capacity (Ah) multiplied by C-rating = Current


950mAh (milliamp-Hours) /1000= 0.95Ah (amp-hours)


0.95Ah*50C = 47.5 amps provided by the battery


50C (47.5Amps) is the burst rating of the battery. That means it's okay for the motors to require 47.5amps for a short period of time.



Two Meishel2.0 motors= 37.6 Amps total required at stall


The motors will only need 37.6 Amps for 1 or 2 seconds when you first turn them on, or if a dart is stuck in them and you keep trying to spin them.


37.6Amps required is less than 47.5Amps provided by the battery, so it is okay. The bigger the difference, the better.


If they were the same, or if the battery provided less Amps than required, it will damage the battery. 


The 950mAh battery should be okay. Just watch that it does not start to swell or get too hot,


Also, after rewiring make sure to test with regular batteries (like AAs) first instead of the LiPo. You could solder an extra JST connector to the stock battery try before you hack up the stock battery try. Test the blaster to make sure the regular batteries don't get hot or anything. Regular batteries getting hot could mean they are being shorted. If you short a LiPo it will catch fire.

Thanks you're a good teacher!!! I just ordered all the material online and I will be start modding on Wednesday! :D 

#360337 Nerfers around Southern Illinois? Let's host some games.

Posted by EricTzH on 04 June 2017 - 11:08 AM in Nerf Wars

Hey there, I would be interested in helping, but my actual presence would be limited. I live near Chicago but go down to Carbondale a couple times over the summer. If ur at all interested in my remote, and occasionally present help please send me a pm. I do also know one of the professors so if you need connections I can probably get you permissions for stuff.

Edit: more info.

Suree thanks, I will PM you right now.

#360334 Nerfers around Southern Illinois? Let's host some games.

Posted by EricTzH on 04 June 2017 - 10:44 AM in Nerf Wars

I am planning to run some Nerf War and HvZ game in Southern Illinois area. Im currently a student in Carbondale, the college town where Southern Illinois University located. After the summer classes started and more students are back to campus, I will start advertise it around the campus and try to recruit some new people into our sport.


Right now I'm still making some Posters/Flyers, it will be introducing what is Nerf War and HvZ, and also our Facebook Group. I also seeking for more members and people who interested in running games together.I have also bought 10 second hand blasters(4 recons, 6) for rent/borrow, darts and DIY some barricades for players to take cover in game.


Any Nerfers near/around Southern Illinois so I can add you into our Facebook group?


Also, I wish to hear more stories from someone how did your nerf group started and grown.

#360308 Rapid Red Rewiring & Motor Questions

Posted by EricTzH on 03 June 2017 - 05:32 AM in Modifications

In Meishel's writeup she recommended several LiPo packs that all have a JST discharge plug on them. In order to use a LiPo, you need to be able to connect the discharge plug to the blaster's wiring.
According to https://foamblastsho...shel-2-0-motor/the stall current (for one motor I guess) is 18.8Amps. So in theory you may need 37.6amps for two motors.
In practice a switch in the 15-20Amp range is probably sufficient.  V-214-1C6 by Omron will probably be fine. One of the switches from foamblast.com (or wherever you are getting the motors) should be fine too assuming it's one of the 15 or 16amp ones.


Note: Meishel's original motors did not require as much current as the Meishel 2.0 batteries (about half actually). Some of the batteries recommended in that guide are a little bit wimpy for the 2.0 motors. This one provides 47.5amps at burst (950milliamps multiplied by 50C) so it should be okay, though it still may be cutting it a bit close.
Also, I suggest you watch this if you haven't already: 



Opps I should watch it before I did my purchase.

The mistake that i made now is, i bought two of the 950mah batteries (the one you said cutting a bit close) , and Meishel 2.0 motors.


So there is three choice for me now. 

1. Return the batteries and pay the return shipping cost (should be 9USD). Then, Buy new batteries.

2. Purchase Meishel 1.0 Motor, and run it with this battery i bought. Motor are cheap (4-5 USD). However, the motor will be sent from Hong Kong, and Im worry that it couldnt be done before EndWar.


3. Run this battery with Meishel 2.0 Motor. 


How big the difference is going to be if I run this battery with Meishel original 1.0 VS Meishel 2.0?


Sry my english is not really good, may i know what is "cutting it a bit close" means? is that means it will be a biy weak on the first 10 second? (btw 950/50=19, not 47.5)

#360230 Rapid Red Rewiring & Motor Questions

Posted by EricTzH on 31 May 2017 - 08:07 AM in Modifications

1. Probably Rhinos (http://www.containme...t-category/mtb/) or Meishel2.0 (https://foamblastsho...ategory/motors/) motors. Both I guess ship from within the US. You could maybe try PMing Meishel here or contact her on her website (Foamblast) and see if she can ship faster.
2. Any motor that fits a Stryfe (or Rapidstrike) will fit in a Rapid Red. 130-size motors like Rhinos (not "Rhino Fire") or Meishel 2.0s will fit without having to modify the shell at all. 180-size motors will require you to cut holes in the shell, but technically still "fit."
3. You can just use the same wire as if you were replacing the motors; it certainly won't hurt. Battery depends on what you are comfortable with. Do you know how to handle a LiPo? Do you have a LiPo charger (which one)? What stryfe guide are you talking about specifically?
4. Why do you need another guide besides Meishel's? It seemed pretty comprehensive.

Thanks for the information jwasko.
I'm still an absolute beginner to flywheel, so i did not have any charger n battery yet.

I'm planning to follow the Meishel's guide and using Meishel 2.0 Motor.Theres some problem i met now and I tried Google but did not get any answer.

What kind of amp of micro switch can I use for Meishel 2.0 motor?

What is a JST connector and what is the purpose of it in this modification ?

the guide i decide to follow now: http://nerfhaven.com...-picture-heavy/

#360182 Rapid Red Rewiring & Motor Questions

Posted by EricTzH on 29 May 2017 - 04:27 AM in Modifications

I'm planning to rewire or even change the motor(if the time allow me to do so) of my rapid red. I'm seeking a way to get it finish before Jun 22, so that I can use it in the End War HvZ.

1. May I know is there any other motors i can get ASAP (ideally max of 1 week shipping)?

2. Which motor works on Rapid red besides of Meishel's Motor? Is Stryfe motor like 3s Rhino Fire going to work?

3. What battery or wire shall I use IF I'm just rewire, and NOT CHANGING the motor? is those wire and battery in Stryfe rewiring guide applicable on Rapid Red?

4. Im searching for more rapid red rewiring n internal modification guide. Is there any link you know ?
(besides of Meishel's.) (I could not find any other on Google)

#359993 Hammershot vs Strongarm/Maverick

Posted by EricTzH on 17 May 2017 - 09:30 PM in General Nerf

It depends on what you need, a primary(semi primary?) or a sidearm. I own both, and I will vote Hammershot because it looks cooler and I've just painted mine few weeks ago.

However, I know that my Hammershot might be in disadvantage while "1 vs 1" with another person with Strongarm, because it doesn't have slam fire mode. But, I'm just using it as a sidearm, not primary, so I need its' ease of single hand prime, and tacticool looks on my waist.

p/s i recommend the new distruptor over strongarm, it is much more easy to reload darts as you don't need to press the button and push the wheel out.

#359947 Legal Issues of forming a nerf club locally

Posted by EricTzH on 16 May 2017 - 12:37 AM in General Nerf

I wish to start a nerf war group here in Carbondale, IL (USA). However, I'm not sure whether do I need to register my organization.

For u guys information.. In every nerf war I will be collecting a few bucks for darts maintenance and blaster rental. Besides, I'm planning to host it in some local parks here.

#359924 Alternative options for Stryfe?

Posted by EricTzH on 15 May 2017 - 01:19 PM in General Nerf

I wish to buy a flywheel blaster, but I found that Stryfe is discontinued and it cost 45 dollars or more now, almost twice of the price it was.

Any suggestions for better alternative flywheel blaster? or Stryfe is still the best at the moment? (in the aspects of mod difficulty, performance before and after mod,costs to mod)

Edit: Opps, forget to mention, Im currently in United States so 45 dollars means 45 USD

#359779 Strongarm Spring for Distruptor?

Posted by EricTzH on 09 May 2017 - 04:09 PM in Modifications

I'm planning to buy a few disruptors, but when I tried to google, I couldn't find any upgrade spring selling for Distruptor.


Are Strongarm (or any else) upgrade springs works on distruptor? If not, do you know where can I get Distruptor upgrade spring?