scruffynerfherder's Content
There have been 117 items by scruffynerfherder (Search limited from 03-December 96)
#363316 Re wired Stryfe IMR Battery
Posted by
on 03 September 2018 - 11:57 PM
in
Modifications
I saw on blasterparts.de facebook page that they are about to release some motors designed for their batteries/imr's. I'm waiting for them to go on sale to try
#363315 lowest Amp 130 motors?
Posted by
on 03 September 2018 - 11:54 PM
in
Modifications
Well it looks like Blasterparts.de is about to release some motors that should fill the aftermarket gap and fit the bill for what I had planned.
According to their facebook page they are about to release some low amp 130's with ball bearings and carbon brushes, designed for their "voltage upgrade" batteries, or any 3 lithium (crapfires, imr's, blasterparts batteries, worker/coolook batteries) aa sized batteries and a dummy spacer battery.
According to their facebook page they are about to release some low amp 130's with ball bearings and carbon brushes, designed for their "voltage upgrade" batteries, or any 3 lithium (crapfires, imr's, blasterparts batteries, worker/coolook batteries) aa sized batteries and a dummy spacer battery.
#363244 10kg firestrike spring?
Posted by
on 04 August 2018 - 05:11 PM
in
Modifications
If there are no firestrike/strongarm specific springs that are stronger than 7kg, what other nerf springs fit the firestrike well?
I've seen 8kg swarmfire springs in firestrikes a few times, but want something stronger I believe.
Please help me track down this spring for my firestrike
I've seen 8kg swarmfire springs in firestrikes a few times, but want something stronger I believe.
Please help me track down this spring for my firestrike
#363241 10kg firestrike spring?
Posted by
on 04 August 2018 - 01:04 AM
in
Modifications
Hey everyone, hoping someone here can point me in the direction of a ~10kg spring for a Firestrike.
I currently have an OMW 7kg firestrike/strongarm spring and brass barrel in my firestrike and trying to find a slightly heavier spring but not finding any heavier firestrike/strongarm springs. I'm not a fan of cut to length darts due to the last coil not being flat, and would muuuuch rather support a nerf parts company, so I would prefer a firestrike/strongarm specific spring if possible.
If any of you know of any firestrike or strongarm springs that are stronger than my current omw 7kg spring plleeeaaasssee let me know.
Thank you!
I currently have an OMW 7kg firestrike/strongarm spring and brass barrel in my firestrike and trying to find a slightly heavier spring but not finding any heavier firestrike/strongarm springs. I'm not a fan of cut to length darts due to the last coil not being flat, and would muuuuch rather support a nerf parts company, so I would prefer a firestrike/strongarm specific spring if possible.
If any of you know of any firestrike or strongarm springs that are stronger than my current omw 7kg spring plleeeaaasssee let me know.
Thank you!
#363215 lowest Amp 130 motors?
Posted by
on 26 July 2018 - 01:05 PM
in
Modifications
Hey everyone, I'm hoping you all can help me find the lowest amp 130 motors, aside from stock motors. I am looking for motors with the 2 mounting holes to attach to an aftermarket cage, but trying to find some with low amp/stall current for a small battery for an entry level/loaner blaster. Seems like mtb rhino as far as I can tell.
#363172 "new" worker abs flywheels?
Posted by
on 06 July 2018 - 02:11 PM
in
Modifications
Do you find that the black worker wheels are slightly larger diameter, creating more crush than the white worker wheels? Or are they the same diameter/crush?
#363169 "new" worker abs flywheels?
Posted by
on 04 July 2018 - 07:12 PM
in
Modifications
It looks like (from what Worker says) the diagonal groove wheels "increase accuracy" while there straight grooved wheels "increase power", but I will wait to see some first hand reviews before replacing my older white worker flywheels with newer black worker wheels
#363149 "new" worker abs flywheels?
Posted by
on 26 June 2018 - 12:51 PM
in
Modifications
Thank you.
Anyone know the difference between the straight groove and diagonal groove flywheels?
I currently use the white worker abs wheels and thinking about switching to the slightly higher crush black worker wheels but don't know the difference between the straight groove and diagonal groove...
Anyone know the difference between the straight groove and diagonal groove flywheels?
I currently use the white worker abs wheels and thinking about switching to the slightly higher crush black worker wheels but don't know the difference between the straight groove and diagonal groove...
#363126 Getting whirly bird darts after mod
Posted by
on 19 June 2018 - 05:24 PM
in
Modifications
Whirlybirds are most likely from too high of fps for elite darts. Pretty much all darts (accustrike, koosh, waffle etc) are better than elites. Especially at higher fps. My favorite darts for my stryfe with white worker flywheels are the Zuru Xshot darts with the little foam dome taken off the tip leaving just the flat rubber tip.
#363125 "new" worker abs flywheels?
Posted by
on 19 June 2018 - 03:37 PM
in
Modifications
Hello everyone, I'm hoping you all can school me on the newer Worker abs plastic flywheels. I currently use the older white concave vertical toothed Worker flywheels in my stryfe and love them, but am curious if there is a difference between the older white one and newer black abs concave vertical tooth worker flywheels other than color? Also noticed you can get the black abs concave worker wheels with either vertical teeth like the old white ones, or with diagonal teeth. What if any differnce would vertical teeth vs diagonal teeth have?
Are the newer blcak abs wheels as light as the older white abs wheels?
Please school me on these wheels.
Are the newer blcak abs wheels as light as the older white abs wheels?
Please school me on these wheels.
#363124 Re wired Stryfe IMR Battery
Posted by
on 19 June 2018 - 03:18 PM
in
Modifications
I've run my stock motor stryfe on 3 efest Imrs for quite a while now with no problems. Sure its not ideal but its a lot better than stock. I'm sure my 3 imrs will burn the stock motors out faster than most would like but mine have lasted a while now, and I'm sure stepping down to 2 imrs would increase motor life, and will still be much better than stock aa batteries
#361706 Worker "130d" motors?
Posted by
on 02 October 2017 - 03:22 PM
in
Modifications
Hey guys I bought the Worker non-canted flywheel cage "kit" (cage, wheels, "130d motors", barrel, switch, wiring) for my stryfe. I really like the "kit" other than the metal wheels (using Worker plastic wheels instead) and not knowing anything about the motors (using stock stryfe motors for now)
Any of you know anything about these "Worker 130d motors"? Are they meant to be a slight upgrade while still using stock AA batteries? Are they meant to be used with Imr batteries, or 2s/3s lipo?
I have no clue how to read Chinese or even begin to research it which is why I'm hoping someone here happens to know.
Please let me know if you have ANY info on these "Worker 130d motors".
Thank you!
Any of you know anything about these "Worker 130d motors"? Are they meant to be a slight upgrade while still using stock AA batteries? Are they meant to be used with Imr batteries, or 2s/3s lipo?
I have no clue how to read Chinese or even begin to research it which is why I'm hoping someone here happens to know.
Please let me know if you have ANY info on these "Worker 130d motors".
Thank you!
#361584 Artifact, Riot, Worker, Hooligan, Cyclone Oh My! Which flywheels t
Posted by
on 13 September 2017 - 06:19 PM
in
Modifications
There are two videos on youtube comparing most of the wheels on the market. Both videos are from the same guy. Ones called something like "testing all the flywheels" and the other is "testing all the flywheels again" or something.
I went with Worker plastic wheels because they are the lightest flywheels as far as I know, plus I like the grippiness of them since I don't care to preserve the life of darts.
I went with Worker plastic wheels because they are the lightest flywheels as far as I know, plus I like the grippiness of them since I don't care to preserve the life of darts.
#361244 Barricade & Stockade mod questions
Posted by
on 09 August 2017 - 06:14 PM
in
Modifications
It does. But we both like the looks of both "cades" and don't want to paint them. We'd have to pretty much fully dissamble them to paint anyways, so figure we might put all the best parts (barricade motors/flywheel cage) into the preffered, frequently used stockade shell, and put the leftover stockade motors/cage back into the lesser used barricade shell.
After barricade cage/motors, rewire, imr's and maybe worker flywheels (stock stockade wheels at minimum) it should put the stock stockade to complete shame and make the stock barricade feel insecure.
After barricade cage/motors, rewire, imr's and maybe worker flywheels (stock stockade wheels at minimum) it should put the stock stockade to complete shame and make the stock barricade feel insecure.
#361216 barricade motors vs stryfe
Posted by
on 07 August 2017 - 04:16 AM
in
Modifications
Hey everyone, I've always read that barricade motors are the "best" stock nerf motors, but wondering if that was only true at the time that the stockade was brand new, or if it still applies after the stryfe, rapidstrike, modulus, demolisher etc have been released.
Ill soon be doing a barricade/stockade hybrid, and rewiring my stryfe and wondering if the stock barricade motors would perform better than stock stryfe motors.
What are the "hottest" stock 130 nerf motors? Are any better than stock stryfe motors?
Plz let me know. Thanks.
Ill soon be doing a barricade/stockade hybrid, and rewiring my stryfe and wondering if the stock barricade motors would perform better than stock stryfe motors.
What are the "hottest" stock 130 nerf motors? Are any better than stock stryfe motors?
Plz let me know. Thanks.
#361203 my new favorite darts
Posted by
on 05 August 2017 - 06:29 PM
in
Modifications
Sorry, forgot to add that. $8.88 before tax.
30 yellow for $3 before tax.
After removal of foam domes, these are far more accurate than nerf accustrike/ekind waffles/koosh. Atleast out of my blaster.
Just don't get the "old" adventure force darts. Just as crappy flight as elite darts.
30 yellow for $3 before tax.
After removal of foam domes, these are far more accurate than nerf accustrike/ekind waffles/koosh. Atleast out of my blaster.
Just don't get the "old" adventure force darts. Just as crappy flight as elite darts.
#361201 my new favorite darts
Posted by
on 05 August 2017 - 03:23 PM
in
Modifications
Just showing what the darts/packaging looks like if anyone is interested.
Yellow zuru xshot darts and green "new" adventure force darts on left. Green "old" adventure force darts on right.
Foam dome ripped off rubber head (the way I like them, super consistent) on the left, untouched foam dome still on rubber head (not accurate, like elites) on the right.
Yellow zuru xshot darts and green "new" adventure force darts on left. Green "old" adventure force darts on right.
Foam dome ripped off rubber head (the way I like them, super consistent) on the left, untouched foam dome still on rubber head (not accurate, like elites) on the right.
Attached Thumbnails
#361200 my new favorite darts
Posted by
on 05 August 2017 - 03:14 PM
in
Modifications
Hey everyone, I bought some cheap darts to try and have to say they are probably the best darts I've used so far.
First I bought a 30 pack of yellow "zuru xshot excel" darts at my local dollar general for $3 and surprisingly liked them. Later I bought a 100 pack of the "new" green "adventure force"darts from my local walmart, which I believe are the exact same, just green instead od yellow. Later again I went back to my local dg and got 2 more 30 packs of the yellow xshots because I like them so much.
I have tried regular elite darts, suction elites, accustrike, koosh, ekind waffle, "old" adventure force, fvj, fvn/vtn darts etc etc...
I don't have a chrono but it seems fps is a little higher than all the others I've tried, both out of my stryfe and springers.
They also seem to have tighter groupings than the others I've tried, including accustrike and ekind waffle.
My "shooting range" is a ~40ish foot hallway in my house with a sheet of standard printer paper taped to a door with a 2.5 inch red cirlce target in the middle. I used my stryfe (stock with locks/thermistor removed, 3 efest imr, worker plastic flywheels. Stock motors,wiring,cage. And ncstar reddot)
I sat backwards in a chair bracing my stryfe on the backrest of the chair, putting my reddot in the middle of the 2.5 inch target on the printer paper ~40 feet away.
The elite darts obviously flew all over the place, maybe 2 of 18 hit the sheet of paper. The same went for the "old" adventure force darts. Suction elites, koosh, fvj all did better, probably half of 18 rounds hitting sheet of paper.
Accustrike and ekind waffles did even better. Probably 12-14 of 18 hitting sheet of paper.
The zuru xshot and "new" adventure force darts did even better. Seriously 16-18 of 18 hit the sheet of paper.
I shot 18 of each 3 times and got same outcome everytime.
Elites,"old adventure force" etc all suck, flying everywhere but straight...
Koosh, accustrike, ekind waffle doing much better, yet not as straight or consistent as the zuru xshot and "new" adventure force darts.
Now the "downfalls". The darts are a tad shorter than elites, so its possible to jam flywheels if you don't pull the trigger alll the way. No jams if you do pull trigger all the way. The rubber heads on them (under the foam dome) can sometimes grip the inside walls of clips/mags which kind od sucks but doesn't seem to happen too often and a quick tap usually unjams it.
And the most important of the downsides, these darts fly pretty bad like elites with their "foam domes" still on. Rip the foam off the rubber and they fly super straight and consistent.
I highly recommend picking up 30 for super cheap and ripping the foam domes off the rubber heads and trying them. Most "accurate" darts I've ever tried. Even better than accustrikes and waffles. Just make sure if you get adventure force darts, to get the "new" design which is same as zuru xshot with foam domes on top of flat rubber heads, not the "old" ones with blue heads.
First I bought a 30 pack of yellow "zuru xshot excel" darts at my local dollar general for $3 and surprisingly liked them. Later I bought a 100 pack of the "new" green "adventure force"darts from my local walmart, which I believe are the exact same, just green instead od yellow. Later again I went back to my local dg and got 2 more 30 packs of the yellow xshots because I like them so much.
I have tried regular elite darts, suction elites, accustrike, koosh, ekind waffle, "old" adventure force, fvj, fvn/vtn darts etc etc...
I don't have a chrono but it seems fps is a little higher than all the others I've tried, both out of my stryfe and springers.
They also seem to have tighter groupings than the others I've tried, including accustrike and ekind waffle.
My "shooting range" is a ~40ish foot hallway in my house with a sheet of standard printer paper taped to a door with a 2.5 inch red cirlce target in the middle. I used my stryfe (stock with locks/thermistor removed, 3 efest imr, worker plastic flywheels. Stock motors,wiring,cage. And ncstar reddot)
I sat backwards in a chair bracing my stryfe on the backrest of the chair, putting my reddot in the middle of the 2.5 inch target on the printer paper ~40 feet away.
The elite darts obviously flew all over the place, maybe 2 of 18 hit the sheet of paper. The same went for the "old" adventure force darts. Suction elites, koosh, fvj all did better, probably half of 18 rounds hitting sheet of paper.
Accustrike and ekind waffles did even better. Probably 12-14 of 18 hitting sheet of paper.
The zuru xshot and "new" adventure force darts did even better. Seriously 16-18 of 18 hit the sheet of paper.
I shot 18 of each 3 times and got same outcome everytime.
Elites,"old adventure force" etc all suck, flying everywhere but straight...
Koosh, accustrike, ekind waffle doing much better, yet not as straight or consistent as the zuru xshot and "new" adventure force darts.
Now the "downfalls". The darts are a tad shorter than elites, so its possible to jam flywheels if you don't pull the trigger alll the way. No jams if you do pull trigger all the way. The rubber heads on them (under the foam dome) can sometimes grip the inside walls of clips/mags which kind od sucks but doesn't seem to happen too often and a quick tap usually unjams it.
And the most important of the downsides, these darts fly pretty bad like elites with their "foam domes" still on. Rip the foam off the rubber and they fly super straight and consistent.
I highly recommend picking up 30 for super cheap and ripping the foam domes off the rubber heads and trying them. Most "accurate" darts I've ever tried. Even better than accustrikes and waffles. Just make sure if you get adventure force darts, to get the "new" design which is same as zuru xshot with foam domes on top of flat rubber heads, not the "old" ones with blue heads.
#361192 Barricade & Stockade mod questions
Posted by
on 04 August 2017 - 09:50 AM
in
Modifications
We are hoping to put the cage and 130 motors from the barricade into his stockade along with the stockade flywheels or hopefully worker plastic flywheels, then 2 imr and 1 dummy. Then probably put stockade cage/crap motors back in the barricade with barricade wheels.
We like the power and motors in the barricade more than stockade and prefer the blue stockade over yellow barricade, and elite style darts over taggers/whistlers. So we are looking "upgrade" his stockade using the barricade motors/cage/elite wheels and downgrading the barricade that barely gets used with the leftovers (stockade motors/cage/barricade wheels) as we hardly ever use it or tagger/whistler darts.
We like stockade motors much more than stockade, and using barricade cage will allow use of meishel/mtb motors etc in the future
We like the power and motors in the barricade more than stockade and prefer the blue stockade over yellow barricade, and elite style darts over taggers/whistlers. So we are looking "upgrade" his stockade using the barricade motors/cage/elite wheels and downgrading the barricade that barely gets used with the leftovers (stockade motors/cage/barricade wheels) as we hardly ever use it or tagger/whistler darts.
We like stockade motors much more than stockade, and using barricade cage will allow use of meishel/mtb motors etc in the future
#361156 Barricade & Stockade mod questions
Posted by
on 01 August 2017 - 05:10 PM
in
Modifications
Def not wrapping flywheels lol. Either use the stock stockade wheels, my stock stryfe wheels, or hopefully plastic worker wheels if they fit.
Our biggest concern is getting the barricade cage/motors into the stockade shell without cutting. Any know for sure if they interchange?
Our biggest concern is getting the barricade cage/motors into the stockade shell without cutting. Any know for sure if they interchange?
#361150 Spring question
Posted by
on 01 August 2017 - 02:42 AM
in
Modifications
Cutting a spring can change the spring rate depending on spring. Some are progressive, getting stiffer towards an end, and some are linear staying the same stiffness throughout
#361142 Barricade & Stockade mod questions
Posted by
on 31 July 2017 - 04:57 PM
in
Modifications
Hey everyone, one of my buddies has an old nerf barricade and stockade laying around that he is wanting to update after playing with my stryfe.
For the older barricade, I remember reading or seeing somewhere that its possible to put just stockade flywheels in the barricade so it can shoot newer elite darts instead of just older whistler darts. Is this true? All it needs is stockade wheels? Will stryfe, rapidstrike, rayven or better yet Worker plastic flywheels fit in the barricade cage? Will worker wheels fit with minimal grinding of the cage?
For the stockade, I also remember seeing or reading somewhere that its possible to put a barricade flywheel cage/130 motors into a stockade along with stockade flywheels to get rid of the crappy stockade pancake motors. Is it true that barricade flywheel cage and 130 motors with stockade wheels fit in a stockade ? Will shell cutting be needed for that? Can Worker plastic flywheels be used in the barricade cage/130 motors in a stockade?
For both, are there any other (stryfe, rapidstrike, rayven etc...) cages that are interchangable with the barricade/stockade (aside from eachother maybe) in hopes of a metal cage ____cade?
We are looking to update the barricade to shoot elites with stock barricade 130 motors on full rewire and 2 efest imr and full lock removal. Hopeflly with worker plastic flywheels.
We are looking to update the stockade to run stock (barricade,stryfe etc) 130 motors on full rewire and imr's with lock removal. Hopefully again with worker plastic flywheels.
If anyone know anything about the older barricades and stockadess please chime in.
For the older barricade, I remember reading or seeing somewhere that its possible to put just stockade flywheels in the barricade so it can shoot newer elite darts instead of just older whistler darts. Is this true? All it needs is stockade wheels? Will stryfe, rapidstrike, rayven or better yet Worker plastic flywheels fit in the barricade cage? Will worker wheels fit with minimal grinding of the cage?
For the stockade, I also remember seeing or reading somewhere that its possible to put a barricade flywheel cage/130 motors into a stockade along with stockade flywheels to get rid of the crappy stockade pancake motors. Is it true that barricade flywheel cage and 130 motors with stockade wheels fit in a stockade ? Will shell cutting be needed for that? Can Worker plastic flywheels be used in the barricade cage/130 motors in a stockade?
For both, are there any other (stryfe, rapidstrike, rayven etc...) cages that are interchangable with the barricade/stockade (aside from eachother maybe) in hopes of a metal cage ____cade?
We are looking to update the barricade to shoot elites with stock barricade 130 motors on full rewire and 2 efest imr and full lock removal. Hopeflly with worker plastic flywheels.
We are looking to update the stockade to run stock (barricade,stryfe etc) 130 motors on full rewire and imr's with lock removal. Hopefully again with worker plastic flywheels.
If anyone know anything about the older barricades and stockadess please chime in.
#361127 Worker flywheel cage motor kit?
Posted by
on 30 July 2017 - 07:17 PM
in
Modifications
Well it seems noone here has tried to Worker cage/wheels/motors/barrel/switch/wiring kit, so I think I will order one, with the nom canted cage and good ol pastic worker flywheels in a week or so to see how everything is and put into my imr stryfe. I already have good ol plastic worker wheels in it now with atock cage and love em, so I want another set to put in my daughters rapid red.
I am really curious the quality of the cage, and will probably use the whole "kit" aside from the motors and maybe wiring if it looks realy shoddy.
Though I am super curious on the motors it comes with, but will not be using them atleast untill I hear some specs on them.
I will def let you all know what I think once I order it in about a week and receive it hopefully within a month after placing the order.
I am really curious the quality of the cage, and will probably use the whole "kit" aside from the motors and maybe wiring if it looks realy shoddy.
Though I am super curious on the motors it comes with, but will not be using them atleast untill I hear some specs on them.
I will def let you all know what I think once I order it in about a week and receive it hopefully within a month after placing the order.
#361098 Worker flywheel cage motor kit?
Posted by
on 26 July 2017 - 01:41 PM
in
Modifications
I do like the wheels. I have them in my stock cage in my stryfe and plan to put some in my daughters rapid red. I am def going for the plastic wheels if I get this cage and def not the metal wheels.
The cage looks to be of comparible quality to artifact plus the extension part where the barrel attaches to it. Which seems pretty cool, along with the barrel pieces it comes with.
I am a little curious about the motors. Ard they meant be be run on stock aa's or a 2s or 3s pack?
The cage looks to be of comparible quality to artifact plus the extension part where the barrel attaches to it. Which seems pretty cool, along with the barrel pieces it comes with.
I am a little curious about the motors. Ard they meant be be run on stock aa's or a 2s or 3s pack?
#361090 Worker flywheel cage motor kit?
Posted by
on 25 July 2017 - 02:50 PM
in
Modifications
Hey everyone, I am curious if any of you have tried the Worker brand flywheel cage motor "kit" that I've seen on ebay.
I got some worker plastic serrated concave wheels and really like them over stock wheels and then checked to see if they would fit an artifact red cage and saw that worker had a flywheel cagge "kit" with canted or non canted metal flywheel cage, metal or plastic flywheels (ones I want, so I can put my current worker wheels from my stryfe into my daughters rapid red), some random 130 motors (probably not use them but curious to get some info on them), wiring I probably won't use as I have tons of quality wiring in the garage, high amp micoswitch that apparently bolts into the shell w/o glue, and some barrel material.
I'm really only interested in this "kit" for the metal non canted cage, plastic flywheels, micro switch and the metal & plastic barrel material. Anyone know how the worker cages compare to artifact cages?
Since it comes with motors, do any of you have any info on them? Are they meant to be stock replacement motors for regular aa or imr/ trustfires? Or are they meant to be run on lipo? I'm pretty sure I'm not using these in either stryfe build, but am curious since it comes with the "kit".
The metal flywheel cage (looks) like good quality, and looks like it would mate up to barrels better than artifact cages, but I have no idea how the quality actually is compared to artifact.
I got some worker plastic serrated concave wheels and really like them over stock wheels and then checked to see if they would fit an artifact red cage and saw that worker had a flywheel cagge "kit" with canted or non canted metal flywheel cage, metal or plastic flywheels (ones I want, so I can put my current worker wheels from my stryfe into my daughters rapid red), some random 130 motors (probably not use them but curious to get some info on them), wiring I probably won't use as I have tons of quality wiring in the garage, high amp micoswitch that apparently bolts into the shell w/o glue, and some barrel material.
I'm really only interested in this "kit" for the metal non canted cage, plastic flywheels, micro switch and the metal & plastic barrel material. Anyone know how the worker cages compare to artifact cages?
Since it comes with motors, do any of you have any info on them? Are they meant to be stock replacement motors for regular aa or imr/ trustfires? Or are they meant to be run on lipo? I'm pretty sure I'm not using these in either stryfe build, but am curious since it comes with the "kit".
The metal flywheel cage (looks) like good quality, and looks like it would mate up to barrels better than artifact cages, but I have no idea how the quality actually is compared to artifact.
#361078 anyone try Xmods motors?
Posted by
on 23 July 2017 - 01:45 AM
in
Modifications
They def seemed quite torquey pushing the xmods around. Plus they already have carbon brushes.
Anyone know about what rpms the stock stryfe motors freespin on stock aa voltage?
I am def interested in trying them but sadly only have one 27k stage 1 and one 30k stage 2 motor.
Anyone know about what rpms the stock stryfe motors freespin on stock aa voltage?
I am def interested in trying them but sadly only have one 27k stage 1 and one 30k stage 2 motor.
#361044 anyone try Xmods motors?
Posted by
on 20 July 2017 - 01:16 PM
in
Modifications
Hey everyone. I was digging through my box of "old toys" and found all my old xmods and parts and decided to pull the motors out.
Now I am curious if anyone has ever tried using them in their flywheel blasters. For those that don't know, xmods rc cars were designed to use 4 aaa's, so 4.8v-6v depending on nimh or alkaline.
The xmods "stage 1" motor has a "rating" of 27,000rpm and the "stage 2" motor has a "rating" of 30,000rpm. I've seen "stage 3" aand "stage 4" at about 33-39k rpm, but only have the stg1 and 2 motors.
I opened the motors for the first time ever, and saw they had factory carbon brushes which is pretty cool.
So has anyone tried these in a nerf blaster? Anyone have any experience with any of the xmods 130 motors?
Now I am curious if anyone has ever tried using them in their flywheel blasters. For those that don't know, xmods rc cars were designed to use 4 aaa's, so 4.8v-6v depending on nimh or alkaline.
The xmods "stage 1" motor has a "rating" of 27,000rpm and the "stage 2" motor has a "rating" of 30,000rpm. I've seen "stage 3" aand "stage 4" at about 33-39k rpm, but only have the stg1 and 2 motors.
I opened the motors for the first time ever, and saw they had factory carbon brushes which is pretty cool.
So has anyone tried these in a nerf blaster? Anyone have any experience with any of the xmods 130 motors?
Attached Thumbnails
#361038 star wars kyn erso blaster imr upgrade?
Posted by
on 19 July 2017 - 06:09 PM
in
Modifications
Is this an instance where solarbotics rm2 motors could come in handy using 4 nimh rechargable aa's?
My friend (owner of blaster) isn't too hardcore into nerf and doesn't feel like doing a rewire, resistors for lights/sound fx, seperate batteries for motors and light/sound fx, lipo or nimh packs, nor is he looking for top tier performance. Neither of us want to mess up or mess with the light/sound fx either.
All he really wants its a little better dart velocity (fps and range). not too worried about wind-up or re-wind up between shots. Just single shot velocity.
So as far as I know, that leaves us with using 2 imr's and 2 dummie cells with stock motors (hoping the little extra voltage won't destoy the lights/sound fx), OR using different motors that can deliver higher dart velocity (only single shot fps, not follow up shot/windup/rewind up) using stock 4.8 volts from 4 nimh aa's.
I know rhino's or 180's and lipo with full rewire is the best way to go and what everyone will suggest, but neither of us want to deal with the extra lights/sounds in the blaster since we are both big star wars fans....
So, out of the two combinations (2 imr 2 dummie aa stock motors /or/ 4 nimh aa and rm2 motors) we are considering, which would be best for single shot fps? Stock motors at 7.4v via 2 imr's, or rm2 motors at 4.8v via 4 nimh aa's?
We are thinking that the light/sound effects would prefer the 4.8volt rm2 setup more than the 7.4volt imr setup but not sure which would provide higher single shot fps (again not worried about windup, follow up shots, rewindup, just single shot velocity)
So tell me what you think.
My friend (owner of blaster) isn't too hardcore into nerf and doesn't feel like doing a rewire, resistors for lights/sound fx, seperate batteries for motors and light/sound fx, lipo or nimh packs, nor is he looking for top tier performance. Neither of us want to mess up or mess with the light/sound fx either.
All he really wants its a little better dart velocity (fps and range). not too worried about wind-up or re-wind up between shots. Just single shot velocity.
So as far as I know, that leaves us with using 2 imr's and 2 dummie cells with stock motors (hoping the little extra voltage won't destoy the lights/sound fx), OR using different motors that can deliver higher dart velocity (only single shot fps, not follow up shot/windup/rewind up) using stock 4.8 volts from 4 nimh aa's.
I know rhino's or 180's and lipo with full rewire is the best way to go and what everyone will suggest, but neither of us want to deal with the extra lights/sounds in the blaster since we are both big star wars fans....
So, out of the two combinations (2 imr 2 dummie aa stock motors /or/ 4 nimh aa and rm2 motors) we are considering, which would be best for single shot fps? Stock motors at 7.4v via 2 imr's, or rm2 motors at 4.8v via 4 nimh aa's?
We are thinking that the light/sound effects would prefer the 4.8volt rm2 setup more than the 7.4volt imr setup but not sure which would provide higher single shot fps (again not worried about windup, follow up shots, rewindup, just single shot velocity)
So tell me what you think.
#361009 Stryfe voltage mod questions
Posted by
on 16 July 2017 - 12:59 AM
in
Modifications
If your going to rewire the battery tray and plan to stick with imr's you should rewire to run 2s2p with 4 imr's., or just leave it be with imr and dummie batteries. Efest red v2 seems to be the best 14500 battery for this use.
It'd also be a pretty good idea to carbon brush (or "c-mod") the stock stryfe motors so thay can take more punishment.
I def plan on carbon brushing and imr-ing and rewiring my next stryfe to use as a "back up/side arm pistol" while my cuurrent stryfe take primary duty with "proper" batteries and motors.
It'd also be a pretty good idea to carbon brush (or "c-mod") the stock stryfe motors so thay can take more punishment.
I def plan on carbon brushing and imr-ing and rewiring my next stryfe to use as a "back up/side arm pistol" while my cuurrent stryfe take primary duty with "proper" batteries and motors.
#360965 cheap darts for stryfe?
Posted by
on 11 July 2017 - 08:45 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Color of the foam plays a role? Never heard or thought of that
#360962 most "accurate" flywheel/cage setup?
Posted by
on 11 July 2017 - 12:37 PM
in
Modifications
Which wheels would you suggest for mtb rhinos in a red artifact cage?
#360959 larger faux barrel in proximity barrel?
Posted by
on 10 July 2017 - 04:40 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
I still get a few darts coming in contact with the larger "barrel" but not as many as it did with the smaller oe "barrel". I'm still not fully happy but it is better than it was. I might need to use a 3/4"-1" adapter and 1" tubing but I don't know. Probably should have tried to find some nice smooth plastic or aluminum instead of a random chunk of pipe I had laying around.
#360947 Stryfe voltage mod questions
Posted by
on 09 July 2017 - 11:15 AM
in
Modifications
As much heat as I take for not wanting lipo, imr cells are far better than ____fire cells
#360946 larger faux barrel in proximity barrel?
Posted by
on 08 July 2017 - 08:53 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Well I ended up usinf a small thin flathead and needlenose pliers to rip the small diameter "rifled barrel" out of the proximity barrel attachment, then used a stepped drill bit and cone shaped grinding stone bit to bore out the opening until I could barely fit a chunk of 3/4" copper or brass tubing inside.
The 3/4" pipe fits pretty nice over the small barrel inside the muzzle on thhe stryfe and helps keep the attachment from moving as much as it originally did. And the darts fly much more consistent than they did originally. I still need to trim the pipe a little so it doesn't stick out past the orange plastic. Pics are terrible, but better than no pics.
The 3/4" pipe fits pretty nice over the small barrel inside the muzzle on thhe stryfe and helps keep the attachment from moving as much as it originally did. And the darts fly much more consistent than they did originally. I still need to trim the pipe a little so it doesn't stick out past the orange plastic. Pics are terrible, but better than no pics.
Attached Thumbnails
#360932 cheap darts for stryfe?
Posted by
on 07 July 2017 - 04:59 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Well I received and testedd the ekind glow waffles I ordered from amazon, and sadly they are not as accurate or consistent as the nerf accustrike darts I love. Everyone seemed to say (and coops video dart comparison showed) the ekind waffle to be better than nerf accustrike, but I just don't see it 
#360931 most "accurate" flywheel/cage setup?
Posted by
on 07 July 2017 - 04:37 PM
in
Modifications
I am def more interested in a milled aluminum cage than any plastic cages.
Is it generally agreed upon that non-canted are better than canted for accuracy and velocity?
Are there any aftermarket flywheels lighter than the plastic worker wheels?
Is it generally agreed upon that non-canted are better than canted for accuracy and velocity?
Are there any aftermarket flywheels lighter than the plastic worker wheels?
#360930 larger faux barrel in proximity barrel?
Posted by
on 07 July 2017 - 11:30 AM
in
Darts and Barrels
Hey guys I am wondering if any of you have replaced the small diameter faux barrel in the proximity barrel in exchange for a larger diameter faux barrel.
I just got a proximity barrel for my stryfe and I looove the way it looks but I feel like my darts are grabbing it since it has the smaller diameter faux barrel. I want to put a larger diameter peice in there but would really like to see if/how others have done it before I tear it apart.
Anyone done it? Seen other that did it? Suggestions?
I just got a proximity barrel for my stryfe and I looove the way it looks but I feel like my darts are grabbing it since it has the smaller diameter faux barrel. I want to put a larger diameter peice in there but would really like to see if/how others have done it before I tear it apart.
Anyone done it? Seen other that did it? Suggestions?
#360896 Stryfe voltage mod questions
Posted by
on 03 July 2017 - 05:37 PM
in
Modifications
If you put quality carbon brushes in your stock motors they will hold up better to Imr abuse. I've been considering doin carbon brushes and ball bearings in my stock stryfe motors to go with efest imr as opposed to aftermarket motors aand battery pack. Still unsure. But I know carbon brushes would help reliability with imr's
#360867 most "accurate" flywheel/cage setup?
Posted by
on 30 June 2017 - 09:13 PM
in
Modifications
Hello NH, wondering what everyone considers to be the most "accurate" flywheel and cage setup for a stryfe.
With my stryfe, my biggest concern and goal is accuracy or precision, with the tightest dart groupings possible (I know dart choice plays a role, but I want to stay on the topic of blaster internals and not dart choice. But I use mostly nerf accustrike and ekind waffles if that plays a role in wheel/cage choice)
I like the idea of canted metal flywheel cages imparting a spiral on the darts, and concave flywheels having more grip surface area, according to some good videos I've watched from some highly regarded, or atleast highly popular nerfers on youtube. I'm not really too interested in high crush cages/wheels.
The first metal cage I saw was the canted dr snikas which seems like a very good, quality product but a little too expensive since it seems it would have to be imported from germany. Though if it is the best I could consider forking out the dough possibly. I have seen other canted metal cages from artifact, worker and a few others. What would be the most "accurate" canted cage? Incase its the dr snikas, what would be the second choice?
I have seen a lot of different concave wheels but don't know which to use. I am slightly biased towards the plastic concave grooved worker wheels as they seem to be the lightest of them all according to some flywheel comparison videos I saw on youtube. But I don't know if I should use some other companies smooth concave, diagnal grooved concave, straight grooved concave, or if metal would be better than plastic even if they are heavier.
Again I am def more concerned with "accuracy" than fps and range (though I don't want 30fps and 10 foot range to have accuracy, ya know) so please help me decide on which flywheels and cage I should be looking at. My stryfe will be re-wired using mtb rhinos and most likely waffle tip darts.
Thank you for your responses!
With my stryfe, my biggest concern and goal is accuracy or precision, with the tightest dart groupings possible (I know dart choice plays a role, but I want to stay on the topic of blaster internals and not dart choice. But I use mostly nerf accustrike and ekind waffles if that plays a role in wheel/cage choice)
I like the idea of canted metal flywheel cages imparting a spiral on the darts, and concave flywheels having more grip surface area, according to some good videos I've watched from some highly regarded, or atleast highly popular nerfers on youtube. I'm not really too interested in high crush cages/wheels.
The first metal cage I saw was the canted dr snikas which seems like a very good, quality product but a little too expensive since it seems it would have to be imported from germany. Though if it is the best I could consider forking out the dough possibly. I have seen other canted metal cages from artifact, worker and a few others. What would be the most "accurate" canted cage? Incase its the dr snikas, what would be the second choice?
I have seen a lot of different concave wheels but don't know which to use. I am slightly biased towards the plastic concave grooved worker wheels as they seem to be the lightest of them all according to some flywheel comparison videos I saw on youtube. But I don't know if I should use some other companies smooth concave, diagnal grooved concave, straight grooved concave, or if metal would be better than plastic even if they are heavier.
Again I am def more concerned with "accuracy" than fps and range (though I don't want 30fps and 10 foot range to have accuracy, ya know) so please help me decide on which flywheels and cage I should be looking at. My stryfe will be re-wired using mtb rhinos and most likely waffle tip darts.
Thank you for your responses!
#360864 n-strike vs elite firefly clip
Posted by
on 30 June 2017 - 03:48 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
How cheap? 
