This is the first paint job I have ever done on a Nerf blaster. I like the look and feel of the Hyperfire and of course the very fast full auto. Running Solarbotics 130 motors and a Venom 2S lipo (so large it takes up the whole battery tray) this thing is fast. Waiting on Artifact flywheel cage and flywheels in the mail so this is only shooting about 70' tops right now. Empties the 25 dart magazine in just under 5 seconds.

 

Nice paint on that Hyperfire! Protip, RM2 motors are rated for 4.5volts; which means your running them too hot and they'll eventually fry and fail.
I'd recommend a nice pair of Honey Badger motors, they're great motors and are designed to run on a 2s lipo.Here are some suck-less Hyperfire cages, it's worth gettine one printed if you want to have any kind of meaningful performance.
 
Just another Flywheelers, not a Stryfe this time!
Honeybadgers, 2s, minivoltmeter, 15A microswitch, 18awg rewire.
130fps.

 
I tried honeybadgers, they don't recover fast enough for the stock belt drive motor on a 2S. I switched to the blade 180s and am getting a better result. Make sure your lipo is at least 20C continues or run the pusher on its own battery. Also, if you are looking into using this for hvz or nerf wars, you should wire up the pusher to motor brake so that you stand a chance of getting small bursts when needed. The stock motor without braking, on a 2s will spit out 4 or 5 shots on even the shortest of trigger pulls
 
Mod edit: Don't post in this thread unless you are posting images of your own work. When quoting someone else's post, don't quote the whole post and a bunch of images if you're only replying to part of their post. 

You can get aa to d cell adapter shells

My nephew's retaliator all done

Almost done with my nephew's retaliator.

Details on that dart guide?

Your going to hate me but I don't have many details. It was a total experiment that I didn't expect to work. I can tell you it was a scrap piece of brass that almost fit the cage hole. I used a 40 grit flap disc on an angle grinder to take some material off to get the brass to tap into the cage.

I ran a very short dart guide/barrel in my artifact cage and did not get a loss of fps, I did end up with a smoother trigger pull, tighter grouping, and less (nearly none) jams

So I added a 2S lipo and ran it over the Chrony. It did an average of 100 with a high of 120. Well below my stryfe, but the stryfe has an artifact cage, worker flywheels, and honeybadger motors

Auto pusher kit looks like it'd fit just like it would in a stryfe. Except for the demolisher (because of that massive lack of internal space), I think any stryfe reshell (including the modulus) should be able to take the xsw kit.

show sells that kit? I've got a gear box coming to to do my own too

I dropped is some better 130s and rewired utilizing the stock switch and a MOSFET. Now I'm just waiting on the mail man to show up with the 2S lipo

From full spin up, how long does it take for your flywheels to spin down with motor braking? Just curious to see if my use of a diode is achieving a similar result.

. Sorry, almost forgot about your question. Here is a link to a video https://goo.gl/photo...LWqBhMaSft3C3r9 I tried to exaggerate my rev trigger press and release for you

Costing yourself even more potential FPS gain. Yes, but only if canting actually affects accuracy at all. I'm aware of no real evidence, in 12 years of activity in the NIC, that dart spin does anything at all. Here, let me quote some people who are probably more well regarded on this issue than I am: I'm sure I could dig up posts from Doom and others actually on Nerf Haven as well; we've been talking about rifling forever (same effect as canting, different approach).

Rifling doesn't "spin" the nerf darts at all. Canted cages absolutely spin the dart, your argument of whirlybird and spent energy even points to "spinning" actually happening. The other thing I can't get over is arguing against real results, a good number of correct comparisons have been done on darts, I haven't seen one yet that doesnt show a better grouping from Accustrike darts over elite and koosh, among others.

I'll time it and get back to you

https://goo.gl/photo...kBvq1At9mYex3z6
I finished the wiring harness on my hyperfire tonight. The only stock switch o removed was the clip lock. All other switches are ran through two MOSFETs to a stock belt motor and two honeybadgers, powered by a 2S lipo

 
$7.50

Got a hold of a Chrony today and I am very pleased. A low of 108. A high of 132, and an average of 122. I used the best of my very used elite darts

well, that sucks lol

After moving a year ago, I'm still unpacking boxes. Two weeks ago I stumbled on to my stock stryfe. I started shooting the wife and now she has two Rebel flywheel (re-canned stryfes) guns. Now My gun is lipo powered, rewired, with a motor upgrade. Both of the wifes guns are rewired and one of them has a motor upgrade. I have a sweet Hammershot with upgrades and a paint job, but the one thing we don't have is an advent to go to. 

 Is there any Nor Cal nerfers on here? I'm near Chico my self. I have a piece of property that wouldnt be a half bad speed course with a few added obstacles... 

 I imagine its just the off season but are there any events coming up in the northern CA area? I'm not collage aged (long since past) so that may be why I don't hear about any events also

 

Canted is no bueno. It wastes some of the flywheel's energy putting spin on the dart, which - if it actually works at all - only works for a given cant at a certain specific RPM with a certain specific dart mass. Otherwise, you'll end up with more whirlybirds or a simply less efficient setup.

I was aware of the RPM/whirllybird collation, that is part of why I wasn't considering any 3S combos. I guess it also makes sense that some of the engery that normally moves the dart forward would now be spent spinning it, what good is added range without accuracy? I mean, wouldn't there be a sweet spot where range reduction with added accuracy would = more tags at range?

I also wanted the canted one. I ended up ordering a 3D printed Dr snickis one instead. I'll throw that one in this gun since it is my main flywheel test bed. I'll reuse the artifact in another flywheel gun.
I also tried a 19/32 brass barrel mod. I got no added accuracy worth noting and lost a ton of fps. I tried the artifact smooth wheels but the worker wheels performed better so they are back in this gun

I started with rm2's but after I added the lipo 2s, they didn't last long. Now I have honeybagger's in a aluminum cage with aluminum smooth flywheels. I also wired the motors up for motor braking

Just completed my first paint job and my etc mod over all.