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There have been 13 items by oleo23 (Search limited from 19-February 93)
After spending too much time trying to finally wire up my hyperfire, I've decided to come here once again, and try to find an answer for my problems. I followed Make test battles video guide for wiring up a rapidstrike for this, and with a little guesstimation I've gotten this far. Right now when the flywheels are revved they are spinning in the right direction, and when the conveyor is working it's feeding in the right direction, wired as it is, the conveyor won't work unless the flywheels are revved. Thats how it's supposed to be, but when i pull the tigger for the conveyor, it shuts off the flywheel motors. Following MTB's video exactly made it so that the motors were spinning backwards, and the conveyor was going backwards.
These are the wiring steps i used to get this far.
1. Positive from the battery to the NO on the rev trigger
2. com on rev trigger to back flywheels
3. com on rev trigger to NO on conveyor trigger
4. com on conveyor trigger to top conveyor motor tab
5. Top conveyor motor tab to top row on flywheels
6. Bottom conveyor motor tab to NC on conveyor trigger
7. NC on conveyor trigger to negative on battery.
I'm still really new with modding, and this is the first electrical project that isn't a stryfe. I really appreciate all the help I've gotten here so far, and I can't wait to be able to show everyone everything that I've accomplished.
I've finally got around to building my Hyperfire, and I'm having trouble fitting in two 16 amp switches, so I'm considering just using two of my old 10 amp switches. Will this work, or should I be safe, and try to fit the 16 amp switches in.
I'm using two Meishel 2.0 motors, and the stock pusher motor with an OFP cage, and probably this Lipo. https://www.etsy.com...p_home_active_8
While I'm asking for advice should I hunt around for a battery with a higher C?
If anyone has any suggestions, or advice It will be appreciated, Thanks!
I've done some hydro dipping already, (pictures coming soon) and for one of my next projects I'd like to have a glow in the dark base coat under my pattern. I've seen a few different paints, read a few reviews, and seen some powders that you mix with an acrylic paint to get the glow effect, but I'd rather ask the community, and see if anyone has had success with anything similar in the past. Any help would be appreciated!
$15 rapid reds, or $16 stryfes? Just bought two of them from toys r us, and I have no idea how long they'll be avaliable, so this might be the last chance to get a new stryfe. At least one this cheep. http://www.toysrus.c...&prodFindSrc=rv
Edit: the price jumped back up to $25 since i first posted. Still In stock, but not for the discounted price
So the modulus has a different flywheel cage and as such it needs different flywheels. If you want a custom flywheel cage for it Dr Snikkas is the only one who currently makes them.
Both the worker and the artifact flywheels are good doe the stryfe,the artifact ones are quieter but the increased weight will cause a slight drop in fps. Worker also makes different sized flywheels specifically for the modulus.
Cherry switches are good and will work pretty well for your builds though you might get slightly better performance from a 15a switch the difference isn't that big for 130 motors
As for a lipo what you want is one that's constant c value times in mAh (EDIT: meant Ah not mAh) is higher then the stall current of your motors so about 20. But if your not one for math 25-40c constant(the lower number they give you) with as much mAh as you can fit should suit you just fine.
Don't really know much about lipo chargers so hopefully someone can help you with that but hope this helped some
Thank you for the info! I looked into Dr.Snikkas before, and while he has an amazing product I'm not quite ready to shell out that much on just the flywheel cage. I did find modulus flywheels though
Incorrect. Alice Coatduck and the open flywheel project do cages for the modulus.
Yes you still need flywheels if you're not going to use the stock modulus flywheels but those cages can be used with the stock flywheels.
Thank you! I was about to give up the search. Someone is selling cages from the open flywheel project, and they get a kickback for every product sold.
I've recently started trying to pick up modding, but I have little to no understand of electrical work even after hours of watching, and reading up on modifications. I recently finished my first very very basic stryfe modification, a simple rewiring, and lock removal. Now i'm more confident in my soldering abilities, and I want to move onto trying more advanced projects. In the next month I'm going to mod a stryfe, a modulus ECS-10, and a Khaos. Before I start ordering parts I want to make sure I have some of the best things picked out for these projects. I'll be using MTB rhino 130 motors for the stryfe, and Modulus, S3 lipos in all 3 of the blasters, red artifact flywheel cages in the stryfe, and Modulus, an extended battery cover for the stryfe, Cherry DB2 microswitches in all three, and either worker flywheels, or artifact smooth aluminum flywheels in the two blasters. My questions for you fellow nerfers are
1. which of the two flywheels, or possible another recommended pair is best? I've searched around, and still can't find a solid answer.
2. Will the red artifact flywheel cage work in a nerf modulus?
3. Will the Cherry microswitches work fine in all 3, or should I use something else?
4. I'm still unsure of a lipo battery, I'll have 2 i'm looking at for all 3 linked below
5. I'll also take recommendations on a lipo charger, since I've yet to invest in one.
I'll appreciate all input for these projects, and thankyou all for whatever help you can give!
If anyone is interested I can keep the community posted on my work as I start moving forward on these.
So i purchased a second hand Khaos the other day. I loaded new batteries into it, and it wouldn't work. After spending an hour, and a half or so taking it apart and putting it back together I finally realized that it wouldn't work because the top part of the magazine was missing. Everything else is fine with it, and after spending the time i have on it i'd rather get it working than return it, is there anyway to replace the part i'm missing?
Tl;dr The top part of the magazine is missing, and I'd like an idea on how to replace it.
Edit: Added picture links so you all can help.