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#363275 Best aluminum longshot boltsled and spring combo?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 15 August 2018 - 03:04 AM in Modifications

Hi, i would reccomend the Artifact anodised-aluminium boltsled paired with a NerfTurf 16kg longshot spring. (do they even make those anymore?) I had been using that combo in my main longshot for over a year and it always worked smooth and consistently. The boltsleds are made to a high quality, look nice and are intuitavely designed although they do come at a pretty premium price. The springs on the other hand, are some of the best around and are pretty affordable.
If you do plan to use a high yield spring, it goes without saying that you will also need a stronger catch spring. The NerfTurf springs do ship with some top-notch replacements though, so that should be the least of your worries.

Hope this was helpful.



#362234 Which 132 3s should I use?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 12 January 2018 - 10:26 PM in Modifications

I would recommend going with Fangs as they have better overall specs than the hyperion-X's, which are more of a budget solution for 132 motor upgrades. As for what LiPo to use, you have a few different options but i'll Just point out two that i know work extremely well.
You could go with a standard Turnigy 1000mAh 3s 30C pack for just 14AUD at HobbyKing or if your willing to spend abit more, you could upgrade to a Turnigy 1000mAh 3s 65c pack for 23AUD at HobbyKing. The graphene pack will get you slightly higher power density, allowing for a longer battery life over a standard pack as well as a much higher Discharge-current. Which ever one you choose just keep in mind that you will have to make some fairly major modifications to the stryfe battery tray to get your LiPo to fit.



#361844 Drain Blaster Questions

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 25 October 2017 - 08:31 AM in Homemades

I've had a friend test his janky drain blaster with a 20" barrel (tight fitting) and 25 pumps with an ACC gen2 hard tip stefan and it broke 475FPS so im guessing that thats probably around what you'd get out of a slightly shorter barrel and lighter darts such as cut down elites.



#361725 Red vs Gold

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 06 October 2017 - 02:12 AM in Modifications

In my experience, the artifact gold cage isn't worth two shits. There is a long story behind this one but to simplify it for you, I spent 48usd on a gold cage and some artifact v2 flywheels and as soon as i whent to install them i realised that the flywheels didn't fit in the cage. it only uses v1 artifact wheels, artifact canted metal wheels and worker gen1 wheels. I kinda just shrugged this off and went to install the stock stryfe wheels.

I wired up a circuit with motor breaking and xp180's on 2S and took it out for a spin. As soon as i pressed that rev switch the sweet sweet purr of xp180's with well balanced flywheels and a metal cage flooded my ears. It was a subtle but loud and consistently high pitched sound. I loaded up an 18 dart mag with koosh and fired some off. Little did i know the true effectiveness and consistency the spin it put on the dart was, every single dart that left the blaster piddled out about 2m in front of me before resuming an erratic spinning motion that could only be described as what it would look like if papa-smurf were to attempt to excite the ladies after having one two many drinks at his 60th.

Enough said, the point I'm trying to get across is that this cage is terrible and hardly even usable and you should just go out and purchase yourself an artifact red cage and some hooligan fly-ass wheels and save yourself a whole lot of trouble.



#361525 Multistage flywheel setup

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 07 September 2017 - 06:16 AM in Modifications

Multistage setups can achieve ridiculous fps and consistency as seen by Eli Wu's 'hex' achieving around 200 fps on elites with a 3-stage brushless setup. I am currently planning a 3-stage, select fire, brushless rayven with 3 modified OFP 41.5mm cages printed in steel with worker high crush wheels and 9 various sizes of brushless motors climing to 60000rpm on the final stage. I would highly recommend trying a 2-3 stage setup using 180s or if you can afford it, brushless motors (though that is a very complex system). Im sure the community would love to see something like that in the future. Last thing, there is no need to use 2 lipos if you wire the 4 motors in parallel. You can simply just use a high-capacity LiPo with a high discharge rate (i'd recommend a Turnigy 2000mAh 65C graphene LiPo, either 2s or 3s depending on what motors you are using).
Hope you found this helpful!



#361503 Inner diameter of artifact hunter barrel?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 03 September 2017 - 07:10 PM in Modifications

I believe that the ID of the artifact barrel is either 0.504" (12.8mm) or close to 0.509" (12.92mm). When I checked with my calipers it was closer to 12.8mm but they arent exactly the most accurate. The OD of the barrel is around 16mm if you were wondering.



#361482 Recon and Retaliator - how similar are they?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 01 September 2017 - 10:03 PM in Modifications

The main internal difference Between the two is the plunger system. The recon housed an old-school 'reverse plunger' system similar to that found in a LSFG, barrel break, raider ect. This is a two piece plunger system that features a breech piece and a plunger tube with the catch notch built into it. The boltsled is attached to the breech piece and that pushes the plunger tube back so it can engage with the catch. This system inherently has a large amount of dead space and your choice of spring is limited to what can slide over the tube in most cases (although this was fixed in a way with the so called 'power stock' mod).
The retaliator features a modern, elite style 'direct plunger' system which is a much more reliable and efficient setup. This is a 3 piece system where the actual plunger tube is stationary in the blaster and the breech piece pushes back on a plunger rod with the catch notch on it. Thie rod then engages with the catch and the breech can slide forward again to chamber a dart. This system is more expensive to produce but it was required to achieve the improved elite velocities (~65fps with elite darts). Long story short, the only interchangerble parts of the kit are the trigger and the boltsled. The recon internals can be switched with retaliator internals but not without some pretty respectable shell modifications.
Plus, there really isn't any point in doing that if you have to buy a retaliator anyway, unless you have a sonic or clear series shell.
Hope you could understand all of that, thanks.



#361435 Nerf stryfe extended battery door recommendation

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 30 August 2017 - 06:35 AM in Modifications

I would highly recommend the doors from Jase3d. They are printed in very high quality out of PLA, come in a variety of colours and match the shell very nicely. He also has the option for you to select a standard high clearance door (24mm extra clearance) and a low profile door (8mm extra clearance). He also sells extended mag releases, flared magwells, iron sights, muzzle attachments and outstandingly beautiful and intricate motor covers all for a variety of blasters.
He is located in Australia so shipping prices may be an issue but i believe that his products are the best available.



#361219 MTB Wolverine MK2 (180 size) 6 volt

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 07 August 2017 - 07:28 AM in Modifications

If you are planning on running these on 3s for flywheel motors, the rpm will increase to around 1.33 times that of which it was on 2s rendering them too fast to be efectively used for a single stage flywheel setup. The dart will just slip on the flywheels diminishing the effectiveness of the added torque. You're looking for around 36 000 rpm as the sweet spot for medium-crush flywheel setups although you could probably run at 42 000 rpm if you're using a very high crush setup (OFP 41.5mm cage and cyclone flywheels). They will also force your battery work harder overvolted so be prepared to up your capacity or cut on longevity of a charge.
As for using them as pusher motors, it isn't really worth it as MTB honey badgers on 3s will give you a slightly higher ROF while also offering a cheaper and smaller overall package (no shell cutting and cheap to replace).
Hope i helped, if you have any more questions feel free to ask.

EDIT: i just had my xp180's burn out on me after revving them for around 2 seconds on a 3s LiPo 😞. Don't over-volt xp180's.



#361218 barricade motors vs stryfe

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 07 August 2017 - 07:00 AM in Modifications

Don't quote me on this one but i believe the highest torque stock motors are still the barricade motors. They have similar specs to the old-school 'falcon 130' motors that MTB Rhinos were based off and likewise are best off run at around 12v.



#361187 Barricade & Stockade mod questions

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 04 August 2017 - 01:11 AM in Modifications

Ive replaced the motors in a stockade for a friend with motors the same dimensions as the stock motors and no cutting was required.
And may i ask why you are looking to interchange the stockade cage with the barricade cage? I do not believe that it would have any advantages over the stockade cage.
Or is there confusion on how to open the barricade cage? If so, you will need to remove all of the screws from the cage and cut any solvent weld holding it together with a dremel, xacto knife, hacksaw ect. You can google how to open the cages if you are experiencing any trouble.



#361163 Slimeball Gobzooka

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 02 August 2017 - 02:19 AM in Modifications

Wow...
I have some questions. What kind of pressures can this thing take, how durable is it, how comfortable is the shell and when will we be seeing it for sale online or in stores worldwide?
I really want to get my hands on one as i kind of have a huge obsession with stupidly impractically powerful blasters that lead people to shit themselves as soon as they lay eyes on them.



#361151 Barricade & Stockade mod questions

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 01 August 2017 - 02:51 AM in Modifications

1: theoretically any flywheels should be able to be used in the barricade cage with modification to some degree, but i know for sure that stryfe/rapidstrike flywheels work with just a tiny bit of trimming to the cage.
2: the barricade/stockade cages are completely unique and stryfe/other replacement cages can't be used without some serious shell cutting and re-moulding.
Hey but one things for sure, DO NOT BE A NOOB AND WRAP THE FLYWHEELS IN ELECTRICAL TAPE!!!!
Hope i helped.



#361149 Spring question

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 01 August 2017 - 02:28 AM in Modifications

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i was lead to believe that spring stiffness is not altered via the process of cutting the spring to the desired length.
An personal experience to back this up is that when i was building my homemade, i used 3 century c-836 springs (~12kg?) lined up for the desired spring length (30cm) and when i tested the draw weight, it definately didn't feel like 36kgs.



#361057 Nerf Rayvenfire hype thread

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 21 July 2017 - 06:22 AM in General Nerf

A few questions, how much will this retail for, will it be sold anywhere else, in australia perhaps ;) and how long will it be sold for?
Also this better not mean people will start killing more innocent rayvens for strayven integrations... REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE.
#savetherayvens



#361056 anyone try Xmods motors?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 21 July 2017 - 05:58 AM in Modifications

Im not entirely sure if they would be any good, but id say try them anyway. Its always good to have just a little bit more information out there in the community and who knows? they might actually be a viable option for motor replacements. And if i know one thing, they are sure as hell better than the stock nerf motors.



#360830 Another Quick reinforcement question.

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 28 June 2017 - 06:54 PM in Modifications

No, Not in my knowledge.



#360794 Another Quick reinforcement question.

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 26 June 2017 - 07:04 PM in Modifications

The back plunger cap (mickey mouse piece) doesn't actually serve much of a purpose as a structual part, but is really there to keep your spring(s) aligned and guide your plunger rod. If you look at where the cap sits then you will see that there is a strut in the shell that actually takes some of the stress from the spring, so you could just take some extra precaution and fill in the space behind that wall with epoxy putty. As for the catch, ive been running she stock catch at 18 kg for quite a while and it is showing absoulutely no signs of wear. You should be good just upgrading the catch spring.



#360782 Another Quick reinforcement question.

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 26 June 2017 - 07:27 AM in Modifications

No reinforcements should be required to run a 7kg spring but if you are putting it in an older, more brittle longshot shell then you may want to think about reinforcing the boltsled with some aluminium plates and araldite just to be safe. A stock longshot shell should be able to take up to 18kg spring-load, but at that kind of force you will most definitely need a few aftermarket internal parts like a new breech, plunger head, boltsled ect.



#360669 Optimum deadspace removal in the bolt for pusher breeches?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 20 June 2017 - 12:41 AM in Modifications

I would probably go with the ID of 1/2 in or 15/32 in brass for something with a lot of volume such as a longshot/caliburn just for the increased airflow as dead space isnt really an issue. You could probably go smaller on a retaliator though. From what i have concluded there is really no such thing as this so called "Magical Balance" of airflow and dead space reduction as it depends greatly on the volume and speed at wich air is displaced in your blaster. But id say you should get optimum perfrmance for a retaliator with the standard 8kg spring (as i assume that is what most of you are using) with the inside of the bolt lined with something with a 14/32 - 13/32 in inner dimension. Just a tip with the tubing, if you are cutting it with rotary pipe cutters then make sure that the ends of the tube aren't at all bent inwards from the cutting process as this will restrict airflow and not remove dead space in the process. You can avoud this by getting some scissors, shoving them inside the ends of the tube and twisting until the end of the tube looks as close to what it should have when it came out of production. But dont over-do it, or the tube might not fit inside the barrel material anymore. Just go slow and keep testing the fit.



#360616 sledgefire replacement springs

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 17 June 2017 - 06:48 AM in Modifications

The reason i didn't cut the spring is purely because if the the spring is cut, then one exposed, single coil will be present at the end of the spring instead of the flat coil of wire that is at each end after the spring comes out of production. This one small area of contact will concentrate the forces exerted by the spring to one, confined area therefore increasing overall stress in that area. This will greatly reduce the durability and structural integrity of your spring rest/plunger head and is likely to cause that part to crack or fracture. Plus it pretty much defeats the purpose of a simple low-effort spring replacement which from what i gather is the whole point of this mod.



#360568 sledgefire replacement springs

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 14 June 2017 - 03:09 AM in Modifications

I don't recommend the century c-836 as it is a pain in the ass to install due to the rough inch of precompression it has (i cut my hands and bruised my fingers) and it isnt actually much of an upgrade to the stock spring. Instead i highly recommend the century spring corp c-792 spring. It is ALOT tougher than the c-836 (feels about 20kg) and isnt so much of a pain to install. I know 20 kg's probably seems like a bit much, BUT my slegefire has been running it for a while now and is showing absolutely no signs of ware and it is still really easy to prime. You don't need to replace the catch spring either, in case you were wondering.



#360546 stryfe imr questions?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 13 June 2017 - 03:13 AM in Modifications

Well i guess with a proper re-wire with 18 or 16 guage wiring and a high current microswitch installed imrs wouldnt exactly be a bad choice, there are just better options out there. So with a re wire you should be safe running 4 imrs.
And yea, if you want to go the extra mile a NiMh pack is a very safe and reliable option that will last a lot longer and give more power than imrs if you don't want to deal with a LiPo. As for what size pack to use in a stryfe, i honestly have no idea but I'm sure you could find out if you just go browsing dimensions of certain packs and seeing if they match the stryfe battery trey dimensions. You can make more room for a NiMh pack by cutting out that big bit of plastic above where the batteries sit, if you do the hole for the pack should follow the same outer dimension of the battery door.
Last thing, in case you didn't know there is a bit of misunderstanding about the safety of LiPo packs, they are actually very safe as long as you don't short circuit them for a long period of time or do something stupid like stab the shit out them with a screwdriver. (then your REALLY buggered).
But yea, hope i was helpful and hope i helped you make a decision.



#360150 stryfe imr questions?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 27 May 2017 - 09:16 AM in Modifications

I honestly cant wrap my head around why anyone would want to use imr's or trustfires in a build at all, but if you insist i have heard that the EFEST red imr's are the best option if you want to go that route, as for running 3 i would say just take the safe route and stick with 2 to avoid any further difficulty. I would also strongly recommend switching up to a lipo if you want reliability and power because when you go and upgrade the motors and wiring in your stryfe, those tiny little batteries just wont be able to handle all of the shit that you are going to be throwing at them. They just wont give you the power, reliability and longevity that you are going to get out of a lipo, plus lipo's are pretty much dirt cheap now. the one im running on my stryfe with xp 180s is a turnigy 2s 1000mAh 25-30c high current lithium-polymer battery and it only set me back around 12AUD, now thats a great deal and is certainly worth all of the gain you will be getting from running a lipo. If you want to look into this topic with more depth i would highly reccomend checking out foam data services' two videos on 'Bringing balance to your blaster'.
Hope you found this useful,
Thanks.



#360116 cheap darts for stryfe?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 25 May 2017 - 08:38 PM in Darts and Barrels

Koosh gen 4 (gen 3 with no glue spillages) are probably your best option as they have very high fps in flywheel blasters and have great accuracy with stock/low tier flywheel mods. They will also work in brass for springers as an added bonus due to the tip glueing fix if thats something that you might want to use them for. Only problem is that they tend to do a sort of swirl in the air out of very high power flywheel blasters due to their relatively low weight.
The waffle darts i have tried don't have very consistant gluing so there tips fly off very often. The ekind darts also dont work in brassed springers.
If you want value for money then go and pick up some FVJ's, they are normally about 4AUD for 100 and they fly very straight out of blasters 170 fps and below. One thing you might need to watch out for with fvjs is that some are made a tiny bit to short to be used reliably in a stryfe. They can also wreck your flywheels over a long period of time if you are using high rpm/torque motors and a high crush setup, although this can probably be avoided by getting some aluminium flywheels.
As for VTN or ACC style darts, they often don't work in flywheelers that arent the hyperfire because of their tip profile being at too steep of an angle from where the foam starts to the point of the tip, therefore not giving enough surface for the flywheels ro grab onto. But as you said they are the best option for cheap darts in springers and brass that you can get.
Hope you found this useful, thanks.



#357979 What was your first overhaul?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 14 February 2017 - 06:59 PM in Modifications

My first 'big' overhaul was a firestrike with a 6.5 in 17/32 brass barrel, a 10 kg nerfturf spring, epoxy putty reinforced spring rest and plunger rod, virtually all dead space removed, plunger tube shifted foward to increase air volume and finally a fully foward recoiling plunger tube/barrel setup.



#357971 Cheaper Alpha Trooper/Recon MK11/Retaliator Upgrade Spring?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 14 February 2017 - 06:17 AM in Modifications

Some really good springs:
Nerf turf 10 kg for EAT, ret, rampage ect (14 aud)
Nerf turf 6 kg for EAT ... (14 aud)
Nerf turf 12 kg tri strike spring (probably a bit overkill for hvz but included it anyway) 14aud as you would expect
Hope you found this useful.



#357581 Anybody Know Of Any "Easily Hopperable" Darts.

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 16 January 2017 - 02:07 AM in Darts and Barrels

The ACC Gen 2 hard tip stefans are really good. They have very high quality foam, their tips are well made and balanced and they are also extremely affordable at just 9AUD for 100. They should feed through hoppers pretty consistantly too. You should definately try them, plus 9 dollars? You've got nothing to loose!



#357557 Best way to go about a pump action retaliator

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 14 January 2017 - 01:24 AM in Modifications

You can try getting the retaliator barrel and cutting the 2 tac rail nubs located on the bottom rail then unscrewing the slide and cutting 2 peices of flat steel bar or polycarb sheet to the correct length. Then bolt the 2 priming bar pieces to both the retaliator vertical grip and the priming slide. Next slide the grip onto the barrel attachment and screw the priming slide in place. I realise that it is not very clear, but there will be a tutorial put up by the one and only penguin (me) soon that will go into great detail on retaliator mods including this one.



#357555 Shields: Do you love them? Hate them? Ban them? Permit them?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 14 January 2017 - 12:30 AM in General Nerf

It annoyes the heck our of me when people use sheilds. Someone that i'm not going to name always uses a cardboard sheild bigger than they are and it makes it pretty much impossible to tag them. That is for other people of course, as i have an 18kg longshot with an artifact hunter kit and i have no problem just punching right through that monstrocity while still leaving a fairly sized red mark on the weilder . As for other more average players?, i think it just ruins the dynamics of the whole round.
But for large team gametypes it's not too bad as you can manage to surround them and overpower them.
I have found that it also greatly decreases their RoF with springers and overall mobility.
In conclusion i believe that it would make a world of difference just to ban sheilds altogether.

Nothing personal sheild users, just don't like your style.

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST: You replied to a topic that has been inactive for over a year.




#357554 Tips For Making A 17/32 Bass Barrel For Use With A Wye Hopper.

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 13 January 2017 - 11:43 PM in Darts and Barrels

You could try using some thin, dish cleaning cloth cut into strips, securing the base of the strips to the brass with hot glue then wrapping two or three thin layers of that around the brass until you get a snug fit into the pvc. Then you could secure it all with some hot glue or epoxy.



#357545 Has Anyone Made a Mod for the Centurion?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 12 January 2017 - 05:03 PM in Modifications

There is a blasterparts conversion kit avalable for 41.34 usd (you're welcome for the conversion) , but you do sacrifice using actual mega darts as ammunition.
Or you could just go all out and slap some homemade internals into the shell and do a brass breech for some ridiculous power.
The other option is to make a conduit breech with a pusher mech that pushes megas into some 25mm heavy duty conduit for the ability to use megas and still have some decent pop.
It's your decision, whatever tickles your fancy :).



#357544 Magic Mega Barrels?

Posted by IAmAPenguin on 12 January 2017 - 04:55 PM in Darts and Barrels

I would strongly recommend using some 25mm heavy duty electrical conduit.
I live in perth, western australia, where it's not to humid most of the time and it seems to have an ideal fit for megas.