You can use any flywheels you prefer, There is no BEST flywheel set, it's mostly user preference, personally I prefer smooth concave wheels, like the UK Bulldog or HBC Riot wheels.

I like the Men-Gun's a lot, they work fine and fly straight in my brass breech Xzeus2, they also work well in my RS with an artifact gold cage(with a brass guide), worker wheels, and hellcats.

Both links are gen 2, White and green are gen 2 while yellow are gen 1, there isnt much of a difference between them.

Look up Bradley Phillips on YT if you want more info on the darts.

I got 300 Worker Gen 2 white darts, their packaging was just bubble wrap so I'm not very pleased with that; but the darts come in boxes so they showed no signs of damage. Processing took 2 days and the shipping took 18 days including weekends, I got what I ordered but their service is nothing special.

All I know is that they are rated to 12.8V (LiFe 4S) so 3S Lipo should work.

I'm assuming that you are planning to build a full sealed sleeper breech, correct? In that case, the AR must be removed. If it's intact, you'll actually see a range decrease. That's because a fully sealed breech system needs to utilize the whole plunger tube volume.
Anyways, a 5kg spring in an EAT is not enough to properly propel a dart from a brass breech system; you'd need to upgrade to 9kg<.

So don't put a sleeper breech in your EAT unless you're ok with upgrading the mainspring, or want a range decrease.

When building a sleeper you have to keep in mind the PT size and use the correct amount of brass; just under 10CM, unlike a Longshot where you can have > 1 foot of brass as the barrel, here's a vid comparing different springs with a sleeper breech. so you can use 4+ kg.

Would putting a sleeper breech in a blaster with the ar's intact still improve range? I would like to put one in my EAT a 5 kg to get a bit more range.

you can't have a sleeper with the a/r intact but you can build a lazy breech, look up Paige Rowntree on Facebook and ask him. here's his guide: https://www.facebook...546241822228022.

You do not need to reinforce anything except the priming bar by epoxying it in place and use a stronger catch.

Sleeper Vs. Alpha! (LS)

I am going to build 2 Longshots one with the alpha and one as a sleeper i want to know the pro's and con's of each, starting with me :
Alpha :
 Pro's:
     1. Its a kit so no real work is required with little room for mistakes.
     2. comes with stronger then stock parts.
     3. It shoots stefans so its accurate and reliable.
 Cons:
     1. it seems to have a lower power output then sleeper breechs.
     2. only stefans so its restricted in certain wars that most players play with full length darts. (omni will come but it looks like it wont fully seal).
Sleeper:
 Pro's:
     1. seems to have a higher output of power.
     2. modularity, Eg. shoots all kinds of darts, changeable barrel length for different springs.
     3. Diy, which means a cheaper build cost and you can make it the way you want.
     4. you can buy these but for a much higher price for what you get then the alpha.
Con's:
     1. Huge space for error, depending on the experience of the maker.
     2. Lower reliability, also depending on the quality of the build.
     3. entry lever is high compared to the alpha which you just need a couple of screw drivers, as you need a bunch of tools and epoxys and know-how as to using them.
    4. might not yield as high precision as manufactured kits with better Tolerances.

Also on FB in the Turf forum : https://www.facebook...ps/blasterguts/

Well i know that the 6kg will catch, i currently have a triad with a doubled up spring from some-other blaster which i around 8kg's total and it will catch,

i've seen someone use the 10kg but its wildly inaccurate, so i'd suggest a 6kg if you want a simple drop-in, with the 10kg you should run around 8cm of brass for it to work well and hit things, i wanted to [k25] mine but you need to ream out part of the plunger head...

Depending on what you want chose which any spring you want, 10kg is quite hard to install and i cracked one of my screw ports trying to do so, but it'll work

NerfTurf sell 6/10kg elite springs that work with most elite blasters,

For USA : https://www.facebook...8022/?ref=br_rs.

AUS/Worldwide : http://stores.ebay.c...ralian-NerfTurf.

I have yet to try these but Foam data services made a review on the 10kg spring in a OMW stage 3 ret, : ,

Monkeemods.com

Well as far as i can tell turf springs are the best kg to performance and they are a little cheaper then others (10$ish).

Keep in mind Longshots are old blasters the newer versions are just re-skins with less and the A/R is very bad compared to the A/R's in newer blasters, i would recommend that you take the A/R out and reduce the dead-space by filing the stock cup with glue or getting an aftermarket cup,

This is the cup with brass in it to ensure a clean air-flow.

This is where the bolt(orange) attaches to the cup(black), get some pipe cutters and cut them apart and then you can use brass(9/16") in sleeper style, this will make it have a better seal and if you cut the brass to the bolt size you have a better dart fit then the stock bolt, and you can put some brass(17/32") as a barrel to get around 200 fps ( i know thats overkill for you uses but itll be fun to fire at targets trust me)

Well you can get a NerfTurf 10KG spring, it hits around 80-90 fps with the A/R intact,

Pic by Paige Rowntree

And with a foot of brass in the front you can get 175-200 fps with the A/R intact,

.

I don't know what other springs can put out but i think this should be plenty for your needs.

You can get your springs @ https://www.facebook...8022/?ref=br_rs/.

Will the retaliator shell take the nerfturf spring? IIRC that spring is meant for a longshot, not a retaliator.

Nope, springs have to fit in the plunger tube, and Longshots have HUGE plunger tubes compared to retaliators, and LS springs are longer.

Here is a video of how to make DIY "AA" to "D" battery adapter using PVC and straws :

, there are a bunch more if you search it on google.

I may have a new model but my bigshock has a rubber top to protect the plunger, check if you have that, if so then you don't really need to pad the plunger head.

Thanks a lot for the video and the advice :-)

Your welcome!

 

I believe he used one of GavinFuzzy's (https://www.facebook...infuzzycustoms/). Most of the aftermarket pump kits should be compatible however.

Noted.

I think it will work if you have a recon/retaliator barrel. you can find cheaper worker kits @ monkeemods.com you ca also check out Avery's recon mk2 mod guide :

he used a gavin fuzzy pump grip but i think any other pump kit will work.

You should watch Foam Data Services's video on motors : https://www.youtube....h?v=Oyqm1QnIwOM.

This covers a lot of stuff about stock and aftermarket/3rd party motors.

What about marine grade grease? I use something called Lubriplate. label says it's petroleum oil.

I'd suggest using the MTB 180 hellcat motors or if you want 130 you can use rhino's both run on a 3s lipo meaning the voltage rating for it is 12v, or if you want to run on a 2s lipo you'r better off with either 180 MTB wolverine's or 130 MTB honey badgers that have a voltage rating of 6v. keep in note that you will need a lipo with enough discharge current. as for the FWC I'd suggest using artifact cage's or if you want you can use Dr.Snikkas FWC or the BSP FWC.

Can't you just build up solder on the bit that's not broken, i did that on a standard DC motor so i'm not sure if it will work, and depending on how much broke off.