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Bullshit Dragon's Content
There have been 362 items by Bullshit Dragon (Search limited from 09-July 93)
Anyone have any solutions?
This is a common problem, in fact the last two white and orange ones I got were completely useless.
What you need is teflon tape to wrap onto the pump shaft well underneath the o ring. Make sure you only wrap on the back half of the well, where it is slightly wider, because you only want the pump to seal one way. It takes a few tries to get it to seal well but it will work. Electric tape may work in a pinch, but teflon is probably easiest and the best option.
It was the o-ring. I tested it with a pump-shaft from a black and yellow on I got in a trade from BustaNinja and it help pressure fine. After doing the Teflon tape thing, it works like a charm, thanks a bunch!
This topic can end now.
It's the bright green and blue model (the one that reportedly had pump issues to start with) can anyone please give me some help?
Good mod. The ranges seem a little... inconsistent, but if it can shoot over 50-60 feet, good enough for me.
The only thing I don't get is, why didn't you make it rear-loading? I mean, if you have to ramrod your darts, what's the point of a turret? It just makes the gun bulkier, more complicated, and less effective IMO.
Not to mention reducing firing rate.
-Reduced number of absolutely retarded topics
-Less post spamming and general flaming
-Better adherence to the CoC
-Less bandwidth used up by useless topics
-Posters will have to be patient when making write-ups
-Increased workload for the mods
-E-mail notification doesn't always work.
If this isn't an acceptable solution, perhaps the posting rights of certain posters could be moderated instead, like a "one warning, then you get your posts moderated" or something like that.
Redid my NF, replaced the too-short brass barrel with an internally couplered CPVC. Ranges promptly jumped form low 40's to mid 60's. PM me with questions.
Bought a Sawtooth from danielbeaver. Great man, it shipped in excellent condition, only complaint is that about three days after I got it, all the stickers except the MaxForce logo fell off. So, instead of fretting over how it would look aesthetically ghetto, I took the time to PAINT the stickers on! Mid 50's to lower 60's.
Mods done: relubed, covered the "vent" with tape, replaced the spring, and CPVC'd the clips.
Anyway, I know the light color is supposed to be the base, but how exactly do I get the proper gradient? I should I like hold the spray can at an angle or something? It'll be up in the mods/paint directory when its done, I just want to get it right the first time so it doesn't look like crap when it's finished.
Here's an example of what I'm trying to do (made it in GIMP)
Need to go shopping tomorrow to try that...
How is this taking stress of the bolt sled its not like the bolt is in the part that breaks. This is more like a bolt relocation.
It's moving the stress TO the bolt, where it belongs, that way the sled won't break and you can still use it to close the bolt.
The air output on that thing is pretty awesome. Good thing you didn't shove a barrel in, because it would instantly be war-banned.
I think you were angling it a bit down, but who knows. If you could possible fix the drop, you'd have an awesome ballgun.
Not to thread-jack, but I feel it needs to be said that singled Roto Rockets of ANY kind are banned in MN Nerf Wars. I'm not sure about other areas, but I certainly hope to god they are.
On topic: I've been wondering if anyone would come up with a decent ball-shooter style gun, and this seems like it might actually work at a war. Any plans for future use of this blaster?
Current Barrel: 3in of 17/32 brass
Possible Replacement: 1/2" CPVC (stefans and stock darts are tight in it)
Spring: FULL Handyman #49
Other mods: Catch spring replaced, frame reinforced, plunger reinforced, plunger head reinforced, seal improved, relubed, ar's removed (given). (I think that's all of them)
If anyone has anything constructive to add, please post, if not please move on. I take enough crap on the boards and I don't really need others adding to it.
Wow. Very nice write up. im going to do my best at recreating this. But 90 hours? That's a typo right?
Way to go, numb-nuts, you necro'd a dead thread. Read the Code of Conduct before you post, and check the motherfucking date of the last post!
That's my two cents worth, hope someone finds it useful.
EDIT: Judging from your pictures, your plunger tube is misaligned. There's a prong on the right side and a corresponding socket in the shell that it goes into. If it's not correctly installed, it won't cock.
This entire thread makes me want to pull my brains out through my eyes.
GO WITH REINFORCEMENT OPTION 1. There is no need to overcomplicate this that much. Option 1 would provide good resistance to force going in the direction shown in the diagram, and for force coming from the direction of the tip, the wedge shape would shunt off the blow. Really, how complicated does it have to be?
I know I should go with option one. I posted a bit back that this thread could die, but I see hardly anyone taking the hint.
Seriously people, I got the help I need, let this die.
hehehe, you are gonna try to barrel tap people? Awesome. I really wanna be there for this.
Jokes aside, just make it a solid piece and foam the edge. its worked for me. Like using a solid piece of polycarbonate.
Wait... you mean instead of reinforcing it, I should make the shell portion of it then fill it with expanding foam (like GreatStuff?)
This thread can be ended now.
I'll probably be looking for help on this later once I actually have it cut out and ready to go.
@Diamondback: the portion I'm getting help with right now is 15.5"x4"x16" and the entire blaster is 26" from tip to tail, and 1.5" thick.
EDIT: Hell yes! I got added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole!