The History of Nerf Modding/Nerf Archive could use a few collection photos. It isn't as much a place to show it off as much as a place to catalog each blaster.
- → Silly's Content
There have been 184 items by Silly (Search limited from 05-June 92)
I am Silly, and I am one of the staff on the History of Nerf Modding team.
We are building an archive (initially on discord, then uploading to Google drive periodically, with a website possibly coming in the future), and then turning portions of that into in-depth history and information videos.
This is inclusive of tracking major games, game types, and other modding adjacent activities of the community.
We are especially looking for long time Nerfers who were participating in the Nerf scene any time from 1989 to 2012, which is why I am posing here on Nerf Haven. Any small thing will help to paint a larger picture, so even if you have a faint memory, please write it down and send it to us!
We will have questions and need for photos and videos over the next few months, so if you want to be a contact we can reach out to, let me know in a reply to this post, or by telling us on our Discord.
Speaking of Discord, here is a link to our Discord. https://discord.gg/zt5uBsR Join in, if you’d like!
Thank you for reading and helping out!
On my compressor powered Titan tanks, I do a few very important things.
- Reinforce the tank! Titan tanks can hold higher amounts of pressure than many other, cheaper/smaller tanks, but it does have it's limits when compressored. I follow this guide, and then cover in duct tape for shrapnel control if they still blow.
- I also add check valves to my Titans because of the reinforcements I do. This is not needed for compressor Titans, but it is helpful due to air line popping caused by high pressure air tanks. You can alternatively use very thick air tubing.
- Do the other obvious things. Plug the stock Titan tank's pressure gauge output (unless needed for some reason), don't use cracked tanks, etc. Common sense is there for a reason.
If you do these 3 things, you will probably be better off than just ramming that compressor up a Titan.
Edit: A word.
After almost a full year of work, my dual Titan tank Centurion Prototype is done!
It has the following mods:
* 2' long 1/2" CPVC Barrel
* Stryfe Magwell & PVC Breech for mag/clip functionality
* Stryfe handle merged into Centurion handle for air compressor trigger
* Air Compressor (12v) * Pump for bottom tank, compressor for top (mag/clip) tank
* 1/2 Inch PVC coupling for bottom tank * Strongarm handle for bottom tank
More closeup pictures @ My Imgur.
Merging both blasters into one build shouldn't be too hard with a bar on the top of the SplitFire, and a corresponding groove on the bottom of the crossbow grip. Screws would go in through the side of the CB grip, through the bar, and into the other side of the crossbow handle. Of course, both blasters existing 3D models would need to be modified, but that is easy enough.
If done this way, other things could use the same bar style. We could 3D print correct bar sizes, then epoxy them to whatever we want (Ex. Jolt, Nite Finder, etc.)
Yep- copycat. Actually, two titan tanks would be an interesting design, since linking them through the open ports at the back of the tank wont work- not enough flow. how were you planning on doing that? One tank barely fits in the shell width wise, and it take up the entire center section. or is your pump/hand pump outside the shell?
Im not keeping the clip-system. Instead im using 2 breaches. I have 2 titan tanks and an air compressor. I have done a lot to the design since the picture, including starting the process of integrating the (pictured) stryfe handle into the titan, replacing the stock handle. This is being done so I can use the air compressor easily by just pressing down the rev button from the stryfe.
Also, don't forget the noobapotamous. That thing is one-of-a-kind.
Theirs a difference between rare and valuable. For rare - i'm more familiar with blasters in terms of vintage.
Zap snaps are stupid rare - since they were recalled from store shelves due to safety hazards. My younger self got some of those for my birthday - but they didn't survive my childhood.
I've only seen 2 cycletrons in my life, only one nerf stinger and I also own a single shot air max 1 blaster (shot the little air planes) - that not even nerf could identify or even name ( emailed them and stumped the entire corporation). The hydro-blastzooka's are few and far between as well.
In all seriousness, in my opinion the nerf prototypes are the rarest "nerf blasters". There is probably only one pre production run with THAT EXACT paint job and THAT EXACT little tweak to the barrel.
Recently, I found a nice old drill in goodwill without a handle, so I bought it for the motor. It is a motor from a craftsman 12v drill. My thoughts immediately went to cramming the fudger into a stampede. Sure, it would look like the stampede had a tumor, but it would fire faster/harder then the normal motor.
So I did some research to find specs on the motor. I couldn't find the drill online, the motor specs, or any information other then a sold out battery supposedly for the drill on sears.com. So.
I looked at stampede replacement motors. I found this thread/post on the Nerf sub Reddit ( https://www.reddit.c...KUN&sh=0d4c2375) and I have in the past made a NH topic on stampede replacement motors.
But I found no documentation of anyone using a drill motor in a stampede. So that's what I'm asking about here. Does anyone know or suspect any major problems (other then reinforcement and gearbox stuff) with this project? Would a 12v drill motor be able to meet the stampede's requirements for function?
Edit: This post will also be posted on Reddit for more people to be able to answer.
( https://www.reddit.c...ZTW&sh=eda8ded3 )
In the Make Test Battle Ultimate Rapidstrike video ( above ) they show you how to make a decent rapidstrike. The parts that they used are in the description of their video.
People like you starting out usually start with less powerful flywheelers as their first blasters, but as you said, you already have experience with electronics and such, so I hope that the video is at your level of difficulty.
Either your problem is you have a stripped gear, or the motor is broken for some unknown reason.
First thing you should do is open the gearbox and see if ANY of the gears have missing teeth. If they are, then you need replacement gears, not a new motor.
If the gears are all ok, and you are SURE that its the motor, then airsoft pusher motors are what I see people using sometimes. They will cost you 39-70 USD though.
SBNC Blog: http://southernbrisb...b.blogspot.com/
OMW YT (For examples of kit mods): https://www.youtube....ModWorks/videos
Buffdaddy Blog: http://www.buffdaddynerf.com/
Outback Nerf: http://cplnerf.blogspot.com/
Brit Nerf: https://www.tapatalk...tnerf/index.php
The NH Mod Directory: Normal link: http://nerfhaven.com...ions-directory/
The NH Mod Directory: Wayback Machine Backup: https://web.archive....ions-directory/
Final note for now: DO NOT PUT THOSE "Worlds Most Dangerous Nerf Gun " IN THIS, They are in NO WAY related to this community.
Thanks for doing this project, we all appreciate it a ton!
Anyway... I looked up replacement stampede motors, and all that showed up was a 2013 thread recommending that you use airsoft high torque motors (that cost about as much as a stampede)
So since it's been 4 or so years now, I was wondering if anyone knows of any cheaper replacement stampede motors?
( I mean aftermarket motors, not a motor from another stampede.)
Thanks in advance,
Also, quick question, how long is the prime on this beast? I want to compare it to my current project.