Way back in the day (like 15+ years ago) Some people experimented with 3/8" darts but they never came to anything.
Do you remember how they made/sourced the 3/8" darts? Or what they used as barrels?
Jump to content
There have been 94 items by ComradeSch (Search limited from 25-March 93)
We're all passionate about the hobby, and there's no doubt Hasbro made the Nerf brand stand out in the early days and brought blaster tag to what it is today. However, of course, not all of the decisions Hasbro makes are very popular.
So, I want to hear your thoughts on what Hasbro is doing right, and doing wrong, at least, in your opinion.
Personally, I'm glad to see the Flyte (for loaner fleets), and the Motostrike this year, as the Flyte makes it cheaper and easier to build a bunch of superstock loaners to give out to new people who want a taste of superstock, and the Motostrike makes a devastating Humans Vs. Zombies Super-killer, but the Ghoulgrinder was really a step back to the Rukkus, IMO.
I'm excited for the MA40, not so much about that Fortnite grenade launcher (Hasbro still has the ability to make back-pressure tanks because the Mediator barrel exists), because I really do NOT like HAMPs for performance and utility reasons.
The Ultra series really grinds my gears because of the darts. There are loads of reasons I hate the darts but those points have been made to death.
Overall, I like Hasbro bringing out innovative new things and acting as a premium brand, giving us actually useful gimmicks or just straight-up making practical stuff that we in the hobby have a genuine need for. I would prefer they stay in the upper-end and make technologically advanced stuff that more competitive types (who their competitors target) would actually use. Like, a select-fire Infinus, or an Elite Vulcan with an extended belt and a belt box that catches the empty belt.
So, way, way back when the Vulcan had just came out, I had an idea. I don't promise a good idea, just an idea.
I thought perhaps a smaller-diameter foam dart might enhance performance, sort of like how you get a higher velocity out of 5.56 than 7.62 NATO, and I thought that it might be worth trying, say, a .30" dart in a specially modified Rainbow to see how that performs.
I'd like to hear your thoughts on this, and I'd especially love to hear if anyone's tried a dart smaller than .50".
TL;DR, looking for an actual comprehensive write-up that not just I, but a lot of people will want to have access to.
I want to eventually build an OOD Proton Pack and have it connected to a Jupiter on the bottom of my FDL-2X as a foregrip, thus making a sort of flamer-masterkey that will be quite terrifying in the VFBA games it's brought to (there's a lot of cover and something like that would be very useful for getting heads down), but there's something that's rather hard to get a hold of, and that's a comprehensive tutorial on actually building the thing.
If it already exists, link me too, that'd be great.
Not sure if this has been done, please correct me if this is the case, and, not sure how feasible it'd be, but maybe at some point, someone could take the idea of a standard round and extend it to a multi-day long one, sort of combining the rules of engagement in team deathmatch with the around-the-clock, and long-term scenario posed by HvZ (except no zombies)?
I personally think it'd be kind of interesting to have a situation in which your players camped out over a weekend and had to deal with the "danger" of other players coming at their camp at night, and how, if this became common like HvZ, how people's loadouts and blaster choices would be affected.
This is perhaps an extension of the highly controversial shields question (that is, ban/limit/have a piercing or destructive weakness/allow unrestricted), but maybe for some games, perhaps some specialized armour rules would be a good way to add a dynamic (and the light/heavy dichotomy) to the games you play?
If I may throw around some ideas:
Obviously I'm just throwing ideas out there, lemme know what you think.
I know someone somewhere has probably made a mod guide for this, but I couldn't find one.
Titans are awesome. Pumping them manually sucks. Big tanks=big boom, but that can result in shrapnel if not done correctly.
So I was wondering if anyone did a mod guide on how to PROPERLY compressor mod a Titan?
Here, we have a gel-ball claymore sold by NFStrike/LighTake and it's proven to be capable of launching Rival rounds/Stefans/anything you can put inside. I also noticed that it had a belt loop and the comments section mentioned the use of this device like a "suicide vest" and remotely "detonating" them from the chest or belt.
My question is, how do you think the rules, should this item be common and/or the suicide-vest tactic be used, should work? Would there be a limit as to how many Claymores you can mount on yourself? Are you going to ban them from being used in a vest or belt? Are you going to not allow them in wars? Are you going to count the "detonation" as a self-tag? Or not because claymores are directional in their blast? Ban the tripwire for safety? Etc.
As much ad you may despise me ATM, Im in Tacoma WA, and can see your island when I drive around the peninsula on trips. Ive heard there is a fairly frequent war up at fort Worden in Port Townsend.
Not having actually made it up to Canada yet, I dont know where the easiest crossings are, especially from the island. Id imagine somewhere on the peninsulas coast there would have a clipper port though, and those sound easy enough from all their ads.
It was noting personal, sorry for getting out of hand, I was a bit screwy from rocky sleep patterns. Unfortunately I can't leave the island or the country. No car, funding for the ferry or passport though. And I can't really afford to stay in Vancouver for any period of time.
I've not heard of anyone using the worker motor setups, so if you want actual figures take the setup I gave you which is well-documented and includes a switch. Or make another one for +/- the same cost with known-good parts and not mystery box stuff.
I'll just leave this here. If I cared to spend another few minutes looking, I could get posts from any other credible flywheel-proponent on how *terrible* trustfires (and indeed, anyfires) are for our purposes.
Your successful use of them does not make them the correct choice, and does not stop them being a potential hazard.
I find it funny that you consider Trustfires a potential hazard while attempting to sell devices that are effectively bombs waiting to happen if the outer casing (which is soft and easy to damage and even needs fireproof bags to safely charge) is in any way compromised. Sure, they produce loads of current and have less sag. But they don't have thick steel walls protecting the insides. And I've run Trustfires out of power constantly revving before they even got hot enough to be uncomfortable to grab.
IMO, don't waste your money and instead get this known-good setup for the same cost:
Artifact Wheels: $14.25
OFP Cage (42-3 mm): $12
MTB Rhino (2x): $10
And you also get a
Total looks like $41.75 + Shipping from Portland, OR
Then also get:
A real battery + charger: $36
And an XT-60 Connector: $1.25
For another $41.25, bringing the grand total to $83.00 + Shipping. Alternatively, use your trustfires and burn your blaster and/or house down, spending the $44 again on the kit + whatever on batteries and not even touching replacing your blaster or house.
Optionally, replace the battery + charger for a 3S LiPo + charger, but OOD doesn't sell LiPo chargers. Be aware, the motors I've linked aren't ideal for the battery; but OOD carries 2S motors and 3S batteries (and better motors, and etc.etc.).
I was looking for actual figures on this particular setup I was mentioning, not an entirely different setup. And I don't know what kind of banana peels you've been smoking, since I've been running Trustfires in all of my builds for a LONG time without a single issue involving heat or catching fire.
http://www.lightake....tml?sku=2257156Just so we're aware of what we're talking about, this kit here, motors, wiring, cage, flywheels and all.
I looked on YouTube for reviews but all I got was fitting guides (which I don't need). What I was looking for was data on how well this setup preforms on average. Do you lose out on FPS that you would have gotten with normal flywheels and a normal cage on similar motors? Or is this particular kit worth it?
I'm asking because I intend to make an LMG Vulcan and use the Vulcan like a Rapidstrike pusher for belts and the main "beating heart" of this Vulcan (IE the source of all its actual power) is going to be this setup on 22.2V using 6x 14500 Trustfires and 2x dummy batteries.
Hey, are you near Campbell River? I'll be there for a bit this winter for vacation, if you'd like to hang with another nerfer. There's a BC nerf group on facebook that also seems to be pretty active, albeit on the mainland.
Messaged you with the answer. Unfortunately I can't afford to go to the mainland too much at this point but I'll note that!
So, as you probably determined by looking at my profile, I'm from Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More specifically halfway up the island and a three hour drive North of Victoria. I don't expect to find many Nerfers on this site who live in Victoria, Nanaimo, Comox, Port Hardy, Port Alberni or Ladysmith, but I suppose it doesn't hurt to try.
Looking for super-stock players who are willing to discuss details on forming the VINC (Vancouver Island Nerf Club) with me!
Modders tend to have some weird reliability issues with their projects since we're taking the blasters we're modding and turning them up to 11. However, what is the absolute weirdest mechanical problem you've ever experienced?
In my case, I just had my Rapidpistol fail when the pusher bumped the lip of a magazine. I cracked the epoxy on the ass end and looked at the problem. Apparently the section of the pusher mechanism that holds the 130 motor broke, so now, when the pusher gets too much force against it, the motor flies in the opposite direction of the gears that move the pusher and send it slamming out of alignment with the shell, making the pusher stop working.
So I tried my Terrascout again and it still has the delayed left-right movement. But I drove it around for a bit again and it not only delays on the left-right movement, but it delays on the forward-backward too. Its batteries and the remote batteries are full, and the gun and elevating/depressing the gun work just fine, but the movement is delayed.
Just to get it to respond to pressing the left-right stick all the way left took TWENTY-TWO SECONDS. Yes, I timed it.
Is there a fix for this? Or am I just going to have to facepalm that I spent $280 Canadian on a pile of pig vomit that breaks down from normal use?
For those of you who don't know (which is very few), LighTake is a Chinese wholesaler that sells third-party Nerf supplies and tactical gear for stupidly cheap. Currently you can get 1,000 Nerf darts from them for $23 US, get Worker 22rnd magazines for ~$10 each, and their inventory keeps growing (and their English keeps getting more and more unintelligible).
So, what orders have you gotten from them? Are you satisfied with them? How was their customer service for you? How much did you pay for them? And would you recommend to hell and back any products they sell?
NOTE: Yes, I know that it's very, VERY unlikely that someone will catch a dart you fire at them, this is more or less just a topic I want some opinions on.
So, let's say that you fire a dart at someone in a war and they, by some miracle of the gods, manage to catch it before it hits them. Since it touched their hand, does it count as a tag? Or since they stopped the dart by grabbing it, does that count as a block?
What about if the dart would have missed but they catch it? Does that change anything?
Let me know what you think about this situation.
I was absent for several years and really only got back in a year ago because of
CHEAP AFTERMARKET DARTS
I HATED making stefans. That was the only part of the hobby I did not (and still don't) enjoy and the opportunity to get back in without that being a hurdle to get over is why I'm here again.
Honestly, I was surprised to hear that was the breaking point for you. What was it you didn't like about making slugs? Was it just how many you had to make?
Quick question, since the Worker Prophecy is essentially a third-party Retaliator shell that can come with various external components, would it be compatible with the AtchAttachments Slam-Fire Retaliator kit? ( if you are not aware of the kit in question).
Theoretically, if the Worker Prophecy is compatible in its maxed-out form (expanded plunger tube, Stefan breech, Scar barrel ,K-25 spring, Worker stefan mags/Katana mags), we could have a relatively accurate, 180-200FPS, high-ROF replacement to high-modded EAT's, which would effectively dominate most other springers.
Of course, note "Theoretically". Has anyone tried putting a Retaliator slam-fire kit in a top-tier Worker Prophecy? If you have, what's your experience with it?
This can be anything from the Elite line to body kits to mass-produced stefans, etc., but basically, what do you think are the most significant of advances in Nerf, how we mod, how we play, and how we have otherwise advanced as a community since 2006?
I think the most significant advances are (and why for those of you that are new to the hobby or this platform):
1. 18-round and 22-round stick magazines. Back in the old days of '06-'11, most mag-fed blasters could only hold six shots. 18-round mags and later 22-round mags were a huge deal, especially when most mag-fed blasters were still springers and had a slow ROF.
2. Flywheel blasters that feed from magazines. Before these, the fastest ones could shoot without belts, pumping or front-loading darts was the Recon, Maverick or Longshot. With flywheels and mags came the ability to rapidly reload and fire, giving close-quarter players a lot more of an edge and a solution to the inherent inaccuracy of Nerf darts.
3. The Elite line. In '06-'11, most Nerf guns were reverse plunger and engineered to be poor. With the Elite line, mod potential skyrocketed due to direct plungers and they shot much, much harder (up to 40 harder%) than their stock predecessors.
4. Drop-in kits. Don't want to go through the hassle of carefully Dremeling out your own bolt sled out of brass, hot-gluing coat hanger pieces to reinforce your bolt sleds and other various homebrewed solutions to modding? Well, now most people can "drag and drop" parts into their blasters and make them shoot much harder, with a minimum of tools and expense. And drop-in kits are EVERYWHERE these days, and companies are making entire kit blasters that one can assemble themselves with a screwdriver, hobby knife, Allen keys, and the like to get 200FPS Nerf blasters.
5. The Rival line and the Elite dart. The Rival line brought back the idea of foam balls being an ammo type that didn't suck and blow at the same time, while having a much higher muzzle velocity than dart blasters and much better accuracy indoors, while the Elite Dart bridged the gap between the older Suction Micro, Sonic Micro/Whistler, Streamline and other various types of darts. Not only that, but the sheer amount of things that Elite darts and their magazines could use spawned the Buzz Bee Elite-compatible darts and N-Strike compatible magazines, which effectively forced the entire industry (save for BoomCo because they're weird) to standardize on that style of dart. This gave us FVJ's, Kooshes, waffle-tips, Accustrike, Accufake, nipple-tip, Z-Patterns, Super Darts, etc, etc, effectively giving us free reign over what ammo to choose in what colours and nearly every Nerf gun in existence uses the same darts (apart from vintage blasters with their own ammo types, Megas, which are also standardized, as are Rival balls).
Are you able to pump that thing while only holding the pump handle and pistol grip, or would that rip the tank away from the Nitefinder remnants? I think it looks great, it's a totally utilitarian blaster and I can see beauty in that!
Looking at the image, it looks like the tank is capable of being pumped without being ripped away from the pistol grip, due to the amount of adhesive.
I haven't put rechargable D-cells in the Nemesis, but I have done that with the Vulcan, and the power I got out of them wasn't exactly stellar compared to even alkalines.
Word of advice, just drop the money on the rechargable battery pack. It weighs less than a pound as compared to the three of the D-cells (and you feel the difference), boosts your performance immensely and can be used in the Hera, Nemesis and Khaos.
Titans if you're familiar with how air pumps and high pressure tanks work. Drain blasters too.
Nite Finders and Firestrikes, given how easy it is to brass the barrel and shove a K-26 in them.
Stryfes. There are a billion drop-in kits for them, and they can get quite ridiculous with their power.
This guy. Never have I put so much into a mod and gotten so little in return. I was trying to make a pneumatic clip fed semi auto. Tried clippard mavo-3 and -4 valves, a valve from a big salvo with a custom designed 3d printed trigger (would of worked if it didn't leak), pistons with enough length to cycle the breech and banded a rf-20 bladder to up the psi. I trashed 2 long strikes in the process. The problem came in making the bolt cycle *after* the dart had fired. It'd pop open with the dart traveling down the barrel (the barrel pressure would assist the piston in opening the breech). After 3 years of setbacks, reworks, and failures... I think I've finally given up on the dream.
should give you a fair idea. That way, the gas, assuming a perfect seal, won't act on the bolt sled until the dart has passed the gas block. Sure, you're going to lose a little bit of power from the direct gas impingement system ad have to use Stefans and Stefan mags to stop the darts blowing up, but apparently, according to history, performance losses due to tapping the gas off of the pressure from firing aren't that substantial.
EDIT: I suggested this to Ryan of Make.Test.Battle but in a Retalicon, if the master of HPA blasters can't get this to work, no-one can. XD
We've all had our fair share of janky mods and bad paint jobs. What's the worst mod or paint job you've ever done?
1. Here's my old Stampede.
Yes, I was a total noob at painting back then and had a budget of maybe $40 a month tops. I obviously tried to go for a more wooden-furniture look and some blood splatters that didn't work out.
#2, the Magnus Rifle. A product of function over form and outdoing the Centurion, this was done with a bread knife and a hot glue gun, just like the old days of Nerf.
Of course the hot glue would never last. Why should it?
And #3, my Rapidpistol "This Machine", what happens when you take a JLCustomsCreations Rapidstrike mod and use a bunch of hand tools and make a bunch of mistakes that prevent you from properly fitting a Rapidpistol kit from Blastersmiths UK on it.
Now to be fair, it's functionally just fine (getting ~110FPS and 75-foot flat ranges with a high ROF), it works on 3 trustfires and a dummy battery (I know, everyone hates them but they work just fine for me and I don't see why everyone bitches about them). The Rapidstrike didn't come with an N-Strike muzzle piece, so the front end is just a big orange block and the stock mount wouldn't sit properly so it's held in by a shitload of 2-part epoxy. And the rough detailing is all done with a silver marker to emulate battle damage.
any recommendations on sandpapers and paints because i plan on painting after i integrate
The initial sandpapers should be of a lower grit (They're basically all the same). Make sure you give at least one good coat of primer and give it a while to dry. Then do your base coat and do your detailing by painting off what you don't want changed. After that, best to clear-coat it.
As for paints, Krylon and Rustoleum are quite beloved, but really, any spray paint will work as long as you apply them right.
Actual Dremel brand dremels cost like $75 us dollars and functional ones from other real brands are less than half that.
I was speaking in CAD and from online, that might explain the difference. A Canadian dollar is, like, 77 cents US.
Quick question: With a stock drain blaster still containing it's OPRV (assuming as good an air seal as possible), a 12" long 1/2" PVC or 17/32" brass barrel and a single 1. Stock dart and 2. Cut-down stock dart, what's the highest FPS you could potentially get out of it up to, say, 25 pumps?
Unfortunately my drain blaster isn't functional at the moment and circumstances prevent me from repairing it, so I have to ask it here.
And yes, I realize it'd be "stupidly powerful and you should never bring this to a war"; of course I'd never bring a singled drain blaster to a war. The question here is "how much power could you get out of doing X", not "how much power should you get out of doing X".
I don't have the money to get a stryfe or a full auto kit I'm only 13 and I was planing on using those internals from the demolisher and I hardly use a demolisher and was planing on turning the battery pack for the light as the place to store the lipo battery the real problem is placement, materials etc so do have any recommendations on adhesives/putties and also rotary tools
Well, if budgeting is a problem for you, rotary tools are not the way to go, a Dremel can cost upwards of $150, as will most rotary tools. However, two-part epoxy that can be found at some dollar stores or epoxy putty at the hardware store should work, if you ask the staff at the hardware store they should be able to help.