The idea is that by heating the darts you can cause the air trapped inside the foam (it's closed-cell) to expand and the dart forms back to its original shape.

If you're not careful, yes you can melt darts. I've heard of people finding melted dart in their pants after laundry mishaps.

 

To be perfectly honest it would be easier, simpler, and safer to just go and buy new ones. Offbrand is a great idea, look for "Adventure Force" waffle head darts at Walmart. They're green with blue heads and they're better than hasbro's. Performance is comparable to Accustrike.

I love how they put the clearance sticker on the girl's face.

It's a great blaster at a great price.

I had no idea that Hailfires were still a thing, same with Stockades.

Sadly I'm not Canadian

Well I know to take the plunger rod and spring with me and I did not think about padding the plunger head.

Yes, perhaps making an NIC-grade pistol is the way to go. *evil smile*

I am going to be heading out later to the glorious hardware store! Gonna be buying some springs.... But I have no idea where to start. I have an Ace Hardware and Lowes in my area, should I stick to one or the other?

I need to get a spring for a Strongarm in particular right now.

I have this arms race with a friend at the moment...

I had a brain fart (again)

Was thinking of something else while tired.

Define "air restrictor". What exactly did you remove...? It's really been a while so I have to brush up on some stuff yet.


See my post about the plunger tube not retracting.

If you push on it when the cylinder has been popped out, does it move a lot the spring back into place? That's the tube not retracting. Again, replace the tiny spring. It's important.

I tried making a spacer from some pipe (?) I had on hand before I made this thread, and what happened was the spring actually managed to wedge itself into it in a weird way that I immediately had to cut the spacer and toss it.

I have a friend with a lathe that I'll actually be seeing shortly, so I guess I'm in a decent amount of luck. I can probably scrounge up some plastic to make a circular stack like you said, Pineapplepies, and then finetune it with my friend's lathe afterwards.

I'd love to go full-on homemade, but my friends mostly use stock and we play indoors. Except for my friend with the lathe, he's running around with a Stryfe on steroids.

I don't think many parents would approve of me having a Longshot with a brass breach and [k26] spring or even a stock Titan in their homes.

Okay, it's been a while.

While my limited access to the site has been a drawback, it has t stopped me from participating in the hobby!

I recently got hold of an old BuzzBee tek6, and I really liked the spring in it as opposed to the one in my EAT. While it fits nicely, I ran into some mechanical drawbacks.

The spring is a little short.

We all know very well that dead space is bad (cough cough reverse plunger)

But the spring is more than dead space. I'm only getting 5/8 of the power I can get out of it, and it seems to be grinding against my plunger rod a little bit too.

I need to make a spacer piece somehow, can somebody point me in the right direction?

I don't feel like buying a new spring, and that's not gonna happen for a while.

Okay.

The plunger tube may not be retracting during a cycle.

If you take out the heart of the thing, you'll see that there is a tiny little spring on the plunger tube. What this does is cause the tube to move back after firing. While firing, it is moved forwards by the friction from the plunger head, which causes the foam padding to form a seal against the cylinder. The pressure from the tube now can shoot out a dart, and the little spring allows the tube to move back into its initial position (to prevent friction between the tube and cylinder, which will affect the rotation and the ejection)

It's possible the spring may not be in place where it should, if you happen to loose it then you can replace it with one from a BIC mechanical pencil. You can find these on the floor at school pretty easily, or you can just buy some.

You know, the ones with the clips that always break off leaving a brick-shaped nub!

woah woah woah.

First, the air restrictor isnt a good thing to remove here! That thing isn't really an air restrictor and if you damage the foam on the head of the tube, then you're screwed. Show a picture of the general area where it seems to be getting stuck.


Second, define "pop out is not working". Is the cylinder getting stuck on something? Is it not moving at all? Depending on how you removed the dart pegs, you may have left some burrs that are catching on the shell. You have to sand those down or they will snag and make the cylinder ejection (pop out) harder.

I was planning on using some parts of an old Erector Set, but I only have one long bar that would work. I'd need two. 

 

Cutting board sparks my interest. Is it a type of plastic? I'm cutting with a bandsaw, and if necessary I can always layer two pieces with epoxy if reinforcement is needed. How well would it accept paint (with or without sanding) just out of curiosity? 

 

edit: ...So the type of cutting board as in the type of thing that you use while cutting stuff with a knife??

I still have 2 radioshacks nearby me. I'm not sure about a hobby store though.

 

Lucky. I don't mean actual HOBBY STORE, I mean a store that carries hobby-style electronics. Radio Shack carried things like Arduinos (where I got my first two), Servo motors, LEDs, and I'm sure high-current switches and high-performance motors as well. Microcenter is the next best thing, but the closest one for me is still pretty darn far unfortunately. 

After a bit of searching on the Lowes website for "Polycarb", all I was able to find was roof panels. Where can I find polycarbonate panels locally? 

 

I live near a Lowes and a Home Depot, and I'm not very willing to purchase online.

 

 

Edit: Also while on the subject of this, how much force can I apply to this before it breaks? I was thinking of making a pump-grip at some point and this is my only available option for a set of pump arms.

 

That's not all I'll be using it for though...

Bike lubricant is a good lubricant. I've used this for a while with no negative effects, but it did somewhat form a very, very thin gunk-ish thing on the outside my Retaliator's breech. Probably my fault. 

 

Long story short: It is plastic and O-ring safe.

 

 

Don't actually trust this until I do a bit more research, but this stuff seems okay. It's blackish brownish with a hint of green.

Those appear to just be the typical Rapidstrike mags. Those are good, but if memory serves they are a bit loose in some mag-holder I don't remember off the top of my hea--Narrowbase. They are a little loose Narrowbase mag holders. Otherwise they are fine. Feed well, hold darts. Good enough for me.

Maybe try asking your local Microcenter or other hobby electronics shop. They might have some switches.

 

 

RadioShack would for sure have this stuff, but it's gone now.

(RIP RadioShack, you will be remembered fondly ;-; )

It's most likely solvent-welded shut. I believe that you should be able to undo it by letting it sit in hot water for a bit, but you might wanna check that first. I'll get back to you after a bit of looking.

 

Edit: https://m.youtube.co...h?v=NXD7q1ryeJo

 

0:35. If this doesn't work then I don't know. Why do you need to take it apart anyways?

Hmm...I've seen those before somewhere... I think it was FDS's guide to motors. 4S might be too much. To be honest those are actually relatively high-end motors, and really it's just overkill. I'm going to say 7.2 volts should be okay. But ask someone else.

 

Edit: If you don't have a voltmeter, get one. LiPo safety.

If you run 3 IMRS/Trustfires you will likely be fine if you don't rev for extended periods of time. 4 will kill the gun. 2 may be enough. Buy dummy batteries just in case.

You can bypass the magazine lock (electronic) and main thermistor (hope I spelled it right) by wrapping some spare wire around the leads of the small PCB arount the front of the blaster. I did this because I don't own a soldering iron, and it worked reasonably well. 

 

Batteries don't need to be LiPos, you can buy Trustfires or IMRs for a reasonable price and use AA to C converters or PVC of the right size to fit in stock battery tray. Doing this will most likely require bypassing or altogether removing the thermistor to prevent the blaster from shutting down on you.

 

Should be easy enough. Coop772 made a video on the RS too. 

 

 

Overpumping isn't possible, as the SS has an OPRV (Over-Pressure Release Valve), which prevents it from exploding if you pump too much air into it by, well, preventing you from pumping too much air into it.

 

These things are air-powered, as in they use a small air tank to compress some air. By pressing the fire button/knob, you release the air and it decompresses. This (normally) forces the dart out of the tube, but in your case, yeah. Something is definitely wrong here.

 

If that was hard to understand, think of a balloon and how it deflates. Imagine putting a valve and a bike pump on it. Bike pump is the Secret Shot's pump rod, balloon is the air tank, and the valve is the trigger. Inflate balloon with pump, release air with valve. (An air tank cannot pop like a balloon unless you plug the OPRV)

 

Now, the air tank in the SS is not terribly big (and you said it was still stock), and I doubt that it will be broken. I guess the pump is screwed up.

 

Edit: Oh. Wrong Secret Shot.