Lol, it probably won't die immediately but it more than likely we'll at some point.

That's tricky. The stock strife has roughly 6V if you calculate it at 1.5V x 4AA. An IMR has between 3.6V-4.2V per battery. That means two IMR's is technically a full third more than stock when fully charged. Adding a third gets you up to 12.6V and doubles stock. I'm not sure it can handle three IMR's let alone four of them. You would be much better off upgrading the motors before attempting three. Or run it with all four and just be prepared to have to replace the motors when they explode after a couple of shots

Wow. That's awesome! I had to look hard to see anything I recognize as nerf. Way beyond any of my modding skills. I like doing sleeper builds but if I'm honest its probably because my paint skills are garbage. Anyway thanks for sharing! It looks great.

Wow thats really unique. I have several old Ryobi power tools that could be used for this. Personally I dont like exposed wires on my blasters so what are your thoughts on using one of these pannels and some shrink wrap on the wires to make it look better? Not a huge improvement but it would probably give it a more finished look.

http://www.ebay.co.u...r-/261802682439

The only thing I can think of is that you could do is add a second spring to the catch. It's possible that you have too much spring tension for it to ever catch but I'm not sure.

Thats really well done. My one probablem with extended doors is they dont tend to match without painting. I like the stock look of blasters and I do a lot of sleeper builds. This should help quite a lot.

I conected a near stock rapidstrike (the mechanical and electrical locks were removed) to a 4s lipo for no good reason other than I was bored. I had somehow conected it up without opening the shell and to my surprise it ran fine. I didn't have it running long because I didn't want to break it. When I put the stock battery back in it was completely frozen, nothing worked. A few days later I finally got around to cracking it open and suddenly everything worked again. And to this day it still works fine. I have no idea what caused it to only work again after It was opened up but apparently that did it.

My first attempt at painting a blaster was a stock barricade. It did not end well. So many drips and runs with layers upon layers of different paint. I eventually chucked the shell as it had gotten so bad. I thought I couldn't do worse until I came across a Deploy that someone had painted matt black without disassembly and then given to goodwill. That made me feel better and actually encouraged me to keep trying because at least I couldn't be as bad as that thing was.

As far as I can tell the kits are nearly identical. Same price, motors, wire, and switch. The cages are different colors but I dont think that really matters. The main difference though appears to be that the flywheels are a different design. One has a diamond pattern and the other is concave. Im not sure if one is superior to the other or not. A side by side comparison would be cool. I would imagine the concave one would get more grip on the darts.

This is an interesting argument going on but it is entirely off topic. We somehow went from whether or not a flywheel cage performs well to who is going to burn there house down first. Agree to disagree you guys. Both Trustfires and full lipo packs have pros and cons sitting here arguing about it is not going to change that fact.

 

Anyway back to the main topic. I have never seen or heard of that cage before now but it looks intriguing. It's a bit pricey but the rarity of any good aluminum cages makes it interesting. I personally wouldn't sink the money into it because I have too many other projects going on right now that need the cash  . Keep us informed if you do end up buying it because I would love to see the results.