You're more than welcome to give it a try.

However, just from looking at the elite Alpha Trooper's internals I have a feeling you might have a hard time. Unless you want to remove the slam fire functionality, a Worker or Longshot (similarly sized) tube might not be able to fit without interfering. If you can find a plunger tube that's smaller then I can see it working, but at that point it might not even be worth it.

If I remember correctly, somebody may have fit the Worker tube in a Rampage-which also offers slam fire-at the expense of the side loading magazine. If you're looking for something else similar, somebody on Instagram managed to do the same with the Quick 16. 

Best of luck.

Been working on this one for a while. I was hoping for a bright colored paint job, but I got impatient and finished it with what I had.

Work in progress:

I considered redoing the paint a couple times, but I want this to be a reminder of what happens when a project is rushed in the final stages. Spent around 3 months working on it and it has a special significance to me, so it was a bit of a shame that it didn't end up looking how I wanted.

EDIT: added in proper description and context for project.

Sorry for the delay.

Even though Northern Virginia's quite a while from Richmond, we used to have a group meet up every couple of months. Wars were pretty fun, especially considering how close it was for me, but we haven't had one in a while.

I'm sure things will start back up soon, but if not I'll try and throw something together. Best of luck down south!

I would check out the plunger padding.

I'm not quite sure what specifically is happening when you try to prime the blaster, but I'd be willing to take a guess. Unless the internals stay in place when you prime (in which case you would want to check the metal rod's connection to the boltsled), then you probably padded the plunger too much.

Either that or the tougher spring warped your priming rod (metal bar from the front), but it's hard to tell.

Best of luck with this, we've all been there at some point. Hope this helps.

UPDATE: New Pictures

Work in progress pictures of a Tactical Roughcut (Nerf Roughcut Raider grip integration).

Early Bodywork Pictures and Text

Spoiler

Fully functional as of now, just don't feel like finishing the bodywork right now. I was hyped about finishing this until I ran into an issue with the left plunger not catching. After a number of exhausting hours trying to wrap my head around it, I solved it, but in the process, lost all my motivation to continue working on this. 

 

For now, I will replace the pump grip with the raider grip, then I think I'll give this project a break for a while.

 

I'm also stuck on deciding the color scheme and other visual aspects of painting this blaster. Was thinking about bright green with olive green stripes, but I'm open to other ideas. 

 

Double sights for quadruple accuracy.

 

 

Realized that the I messed up the cutting lines halfway through the operation, so I patched up the holes with some plastic sheet then went over it with putty. I know it's kind of sloppy, but I'm planning on attaching plastic where the two blasters meet in an attempt to make a smoother transition.

 

 

As for the rail, I would not recommend attempting this kind of integration. I still have to basically reconstruct where the two meet so that it will look better when painted. Hopefully it won't get worn out from using attachments; but it's for close quarters, so I doubt I'll ever put anything on the rails.

 

 

I'll update this post once I'm done with it, whenever that may be. Just wanted to get this out there so I will feel obligated to finish it. Idk though, I'm kinda digging the janky look going on here. 

Spoiler

 

Overview. 

 

 

 

"La Petunia" engraved on the side. Going to go over it with some silver paint to make it pop. This ended up looking more like a watermelon though.

 

 

Covered up that nasty gap with a bit from a Maverick slide.

 

I'm not too thrilled about the soap masking though. I left it out to dry in the sun then some of the soap dried up so the paint's a bit crusty in some areas. I'll have to cover it up with weathering.

 

 

Also decided to use the sling mount from the Maverick slide. Really happy with how smooth the edges are.

 

Weathering is the solution to all your problems.

I believe I'm available. Can't wait.

EDIT: Somebody doesn't know how to use a calendar... Going to be out of state until the day after. Oh well.

Why the repost?

Anyway, if you're looking for just a micro switch, you get one from basically anywhere, just make sure they match the wiring and battery you plan on using. 

As for a full auto kit, you can make your own for cheap with some additional jank. All you need is an RC motor gearbox (around $4 if you know where to look), gear rack with corresponding gear (trimmed), and lots of hot glue/putty. Hell, you could skip some steps by finding the 3D files for a pusher or housing and print them locally. 

It may take some imagination and elbow grease, but it's possible. Somebody did something similar to a rayven.

Hopefully I answered your question.

I believe I'm available that day. 

Hopefully there won't be any birthday parties or baseball games this time.

You might want to take a look at the Wipeout paintball pistol.

Basically the same concept, you could use the internals for reference. Good luck.

While this topic has been slightly resurrected, has anyone thought of making a noisemaker SCAR barrel? 

Upon firing your blaster, your opponents wouldn't know whether to laugh or run for their lives.

As far as I know, all you'd have to do is change the shape of the holes and incorporate vibrating flaps.

I desperately want this to be a thing, but don't have a 3D printer or a computer capable of running decent software. Also, sorry not really contributing anything to this discussion. no ban plz

I'm not sure if this warrants an entire topic, but I found some blasters that have been somewhat heavily discounted that haven't really been fully taken advantage of by this community yet.

First off, the Boomco Halo Assault Rifle in Blue (looks better than in Red), is about half off. Grabbed myself one of these a couple weeks ago when it was a similar price. The package arrived in a huge box that wasn't properly sealed, but the item was still in new condition.

Link

Second, the Buzz Bee/Advenure Force Eradicator, basically a Retaliator with a shorter stock and longer barrel extension. What makes this good is that it's only $8, comes with 3 (as far as I know) Nerf compatible 10 round magazines, and 30 or so darts. From what I've seen, anything under the Adventure Force name on Amazon is usually super expensive, so this is a pleasant surprise.

After a quick Google search, I couldn't even find pictures of the internals for this blaster, let alone any mods; so I picked one up. Haven't figured out what I'm going to do with it yet. Expect photos of guts in near future.

EDIT: No longer $8 Nevermind

Link

I have no idea how long these discounts last, just wanted to spread the word. Sorry if this is old news.

EDIT: feels like there should be a designated topic for discounted items. 

Lol you win.

Awesome job. Can't wait to see what you do next.

I could use an extension, but then it would never be finished...

Idk it might be better to have a half working blaster than none at all.

UPDATE: Turns out I damaged a certain piece of my entry beyond repair... Oops.

Sorry for wasting your time.

It looks like you have a guide below the armature (right in front of the trigger guard) but nothing above it which is the direction that the peg will be trying to force it.

 
There is a rail above the white piece, it's just very short. However, it gets the job done. As I said, the problem is in the black piece that operates the clip.
 

What blaster did you steal the clip mechanism from?

 
This blaster is an integration of the Boomco Crankforce and Doublstrike. I tried using the mechanism from the Crankforce, but it didn't make much sense to continue using it (see other thread for internals). The black piece is pushed down from a lever that is mounted to the gun, which was hard to replicate with epoxy putty and limited shell space.
 
EDIT: the mechanism is covered by the piece that operates it. 
 
Here is a picture of it in its natural habitat right before I surgically removed it.
 

Spoiler

The troublesome black piece has a circular nub which fits inside the hole. 

Back at it again with an incredibly specific question...

This time it's for my 2017 Contest Submission, so hopefully that won't turn too many of you off to giving me a hand. Because this is for a competition, I've been holding out on asking for help; but screw it, there's around 24 hours left and I'm pretty much stuck.

Right now, I'm working on my hammer action, clip fed blaster, and I'm having issues making the mechanism for cycling the clip.

The idea is that a [poorly placed] tab on the hammer will push a piece forward, moving the clip slider (standard Boomco piece, black) thing down. Ideally, there will be some springs to help make this more fluid, but that's a problem for later.

Tab on hammer:

Spoiler

Plastic piece:

Spoiler

Wide view:

Spoiler

So the problem I've been encountering is that the "clip slider" comes out of alignment (I will put in rails for it later) when placed under pressure and messes the whole thing up. I've tinkered with the homemade plastic pieces without the Boomco slider in place and it works just fine, so this is the only known issue right now. I think I need to change the shape of the front of the plastic (I've already tried one other shape), but I don't know what to change it to.

Another solution could be to shave off the circular nub and put a triangular nub in its place, but that is too risky/permanent, and I'm not that desperate yet.

I know this mechanism might not be the most efficient way to do this, but I've already invested too much time into it for now.

I would be very grateful if someone were to help me out here. If this works, I'll be able to put up a tutorial write up within the next 24 hours with some more juicy pictures.

Lol does nobody remember the Quick 16? Haven't touched mine in years. Too many jams.

It's a shame.

I'd like to cause I live spitting distance away, but I'm not sure if I'm available...

I also don't have any [impressive] primaries, so I've got some stuff to do.

Yeah, I'm down.

Amazon has a sale today on Nerf guns...'Nuff said.

Actually though, I just found a $30 Zeus, $20 Modulus, and $25 Tri Strike, among others. 

The sale is only today, so get busy I guess.

Also, the only reason I have one of these monstrosities is because they are a $5 Add On item on Amazon. I got this and a Slingfire for $25.

I understand that not a lot of people own the Boomco Crankforce, and I feel pretty dumb for asking this; but how do I open it?

The front of the barrel is a solid plastic piece that needs to be pried off, but I'm not sure whether its glued or not. I tried searching for a solution, but pretty much nothing came up. I know Boomtendo has a video with the disassembled blaster, but he didn't say how he did it.

I managed to get one side really close to coming off, but it didn't last.

The last time I tried using brute force to open a blaster, I ended up breaking the plastic. 

Not sure what to do here.

UPDATE: Tried dipping the part in boiling water, didn't seem to do anything. Still stuck. Thanks for all the help. 

FINAL UPDATE: Remembered I paid $5 for the blaster, so I went at it with the dremel then pried the rest off. Turns out the piece was glued where the two halves of the blaster met... Guess I didn't dip it long enough. 

Oh well.

Here are some pics:

Glued portion on front

"Jaw" piece

Internals

Close up

So last year I unfortunately made the mistake of giving colleges my contact information, and although most of the emails and letters I have received are either scams or brochures, I did manage to stumble across several interesting attempts at making colleges appear captivating to teenagers.

But out of all of them, I'd have to say this one from the University of Chicago is the most interesting.

The email was called "Our campus is zombie ready." (They know how to get my attention)

(If the image doesn't load for some reason, the university is basically using HvZ to lure kids into their college... Not that there's anything wrong with that.)

Idk if this is old news, but I just thought that was cool and worth sharing. I never would've guessed that colleges would use HvZ as one of their main hooks (probably says something about the college), but I can't complain. And considering emails like this get sent out to high schools across the nation, maybe this brought some new people into this hobby.

Wishful thinking I guess.

Let me just open this by saying I know this is kind of a dumb and lazy question, but I have little experience with motors and am incredibly interested in this concept.

I was recently thinking about where to find motors in common appliances, when I suddenly remembered that pencil sharpeners have motors. I did some research on different kinds of sharpeners and potential motors, but got lost in Amazon pages and DIY Youtube videos. I would just take apart a pencil sharpener myself, but I only have one pencil sharpener that is in decent condition (no reason to waste a perfectly good appliance) and am incredibly impatient, so my options are limited. I did a quick search of the forums, but nothing came up.

I want to know is if anyone has taken apart any electric pencil sharpeners and how have they been used in modding?

Could it be easier/less expensive to obtain motors/other parts from pencil sharpeners/appliances?

I have no idea. Hopefully we will all learn something from this (unless it gets locked for being a lame topic).

What's great about that video is how much it increased [Orange] Mod Work's search index, hopefully resulting in increased sales, and thus, increased amounts of modders.

But one can only dream. I guess we'll have to wait and see.

Probably one of the strangest Nerf lines I've seen.

A couple years back, I found one called the Switch Shots Super in a thrift store; it was basically the same thing but smaller and with only one barrel.

Have you tried a search for the unknown terms? 

From what I know,

the bolt sled is the frame around the barrel.

The ramp is the curved part at the front of sled.

It pushes the dart tooth/gate down as the blaster is primed.

The dart tooth/gate prevents darts from falling out of the barrel mid prime.

Idk. Hope this helped. Sorry it took so long for someone to reply.

To start off, I'm not incredibly experienced with electronic modifications and what have you; but I'm going to give it a shot anyway. 

Anyway, I think it depends on what you're looking for and how much time/effort/money you would be willing to put into the project. 

Electric springers probably have a lower potential fire rate (when compared to that of flywheels), but greater potential ranges (with the right springs and gears). Flywheels on the other hand, are probably cheaper, faster, and easier to install. 

Idk. Just an educated guess from the little experience I have.

Hopefully someone else will explain this better than I did.

Make sure to take a reference picture of a blaster's internals before fully disassembling it. Sorta good to have, I guess.

I put an Xploderz Sneak Attack spring into mine and it fit just fine.

I'm near DC.

Any switch recommendations?

Does anybody know what kind of motors and/or switches these are/if they can be used/if and where I can get better ones? They are from the Tokyo Marui PC356 electric blowback airsoft pistol. Any help is appreciated.

Sorry about the crappy photos.

Steam ID: The Pickyle

Probably from an action figure or something. I have darts like that (without the suction cups) that came from a giant Batman action figure with a shoulder mounted "Triad."

I have a bunch of mavericks that I don't know what to do with, so I decided I wanted to make a variant of a NiteMav. I'm planning on putting in a replacement plunger tube that will only fit if areas inside the shell are removed. To do this, I tried sanding them off with a rough grit sanding bit on my dremel. Unfortunately, I can't get into some areas and have discovered that continuing using the sanding bit is inefficient and sloppy. SO. Does anyone know of any other tool or method I could use to do this?

Any help is appreciated. 

Okay, thanks.

Yep. Did all I could. Did not paint inside the barrel. I glued all the barrel parts together and then figured out Boomco doesn't like air seals. Pretty much, I removed all the tape and tested it to discover it works just fine now. 

Yes. It performed the way it should have before I did anything to it. 

So.

I am making a (functional) Halo magnum prop, and am currently experiencing problems that I believe are connected to plunger lubrication. Before painting the blaster, I used teflon tape to cover pretty much the entire plunger head with a couple of layers (not too much though). At first, I used OMW silicone grease to lubricate the plunger, but after a couple of hours, the plunger tube is dry. Several weeks later I tried to solve that using Crosman pellgunoil for airsoft, but it was still not lubed enough. I decided that the plunger tube "lubrication level" did not have to be perfect. So I reassembled the blaster, primed it and fired it. My stock Maverick from a millennium ago had better performance. I took the gun apart, and removed the teflon tape above and below the O ring. Still, horrible performance. I've been tinkering with the air seal and springs for a couple of hours now, and I've come to the conclusion that I need advice. So.

Any guess on what I'm doing wrong?