http://www.efestpower.com/Product/123409115.html

where did you pull your numbers from

i don't wish to quip back and forth on IMR vs li-po but they both have their places IMR has more uses than just nerf if you vape or have a high end flash lights just as lipo have uses in R/C vehicle and nerf. Yes li-po are the best choice but i prefer IMR.

Where did I pull my numbers from?? Your link shows exactly what I quoted for the efest purple. Two efest purple wired in series would be 7.4v @ 3500mah 32 / 64 and two wired in parallel would be 3.7v @ 7000mah. Thats according to your link.

Specs for the zippy compact 2S 60C 2200mah are shown here
2200mah is 2.2a, 2.2a x 60C (continuous)= 132a.
2.2a x 70c (burst)= 154a

Specs for the zippy compact 3S 40C 2200mah are shown here
2200mah is 2.2a, 2.2a x 40C (continuous)= 88a.
2.2a x 50C (burst)= 110a

My point was only that it seems a bit ridiculous to pay more (or the same) for less... but hey, to each their own I guess.

I have only done 1 thing to my rs at this point i modded the tray and put 2 18650 efest imr in.

looking back efest makes imr 26650 good up to 64A a 26650 is roughly the same around as a c cell but about 1 inch shorter than 2 c cells stacked so a spacer would need to be used.

btw a 26650 would be 3400mAh so 6800mAh of capacity beats the shit out of the 1000mAh 2s lipo and 30-64A vs 25A most 1000mAh lipo i have seen are 25c you take the c rating times the capacity to get the current dischargeable.

so a 26650 purple efest is roughly 50c.

The efest purple is 3.7v (recommended discharge not to exceed 2.5a)@ 3500mah, two of these would make 7.4v @ 3500mah with 32a / 64a discharge ( or 3.7V @ 7000mah) and cost $25.30

A 40C 2200mah 3S lipo is 11.1v with 80a / 100a discharge (apples /oranges)

OR...... a zippy compact 2S Lipo 2200mah 60C (which will fit in the RS) would be 7.4V 2200mah 132a / 154a and costs $13.28 which is approximately the cost of one efest purple sub C. The 2S would eat the efests for breakfast lunch and dinner and a snack and breakfast the next morning and leave you with almost enough cash to order the BSUK switch and wiring kit. I don't understand why any one would want to go that route. If the sub C's were that great then no RC guy would be running Lipos in their rigs. I have about 12 Nimh sub C packs in an ammo box that never seen the light of day once I plugged in my first lipo pack.

But, regarding the Op's usage and my assumption he already has the IMR batts... they are probably a good choice for just a quick juice up for the basement battle with the younger kids. Cost wise not efficient but to really harness the power of the lipos you will require additional upgrades which probably aren't in his best interest atm.

Last thought, the stock 22 or 23 awg wire can fuse at around 10amps so if you want to juice up in any regard then a re-wire is really recommended. Last thing anyone wants is a slizzling blaster or a battery shorting out and popping.

I wouldn't suggest IMR batteries at all. Maybe two if you stay stock and do re-wire. Three @ 11.1v on 180's will probably drain extremely fast. I have Xtreme Pro 180's in my RS and use a 2200mah 40C 3S lipo. I will take the liberty of saying I have no experience with IMR Tru$tfire type batteries. I avoided them all together based mostly on what I read regarding their capacities, reliablity, etc.
I left my RS pusher with the OE 130 but I plan to replace it as move into the second stage of my build. Also be advised that anything above 9v is said to cause run away fire problems. With my RS I use a Pololu 9v step down regulator on the pusher and it still tends to get out of control on occasion.
Nothing on the RS is overly complicated. If you want to simplify the process get the Blastersmiths UK switch and wiring kit (I highly recommend), Pop your motors in, run your wires, solder them up... and you're basically gtg.

I say go 180 or stay stock. There are decent 130's but they cost as much or more than 180's and from what I have read they don't last very long. Three packs of Mabuchi 3240 180's on flea bay for $15 shipped. If you're gonna dig in, may as well make it worth the effort. However, I think for you style of Nerfing you would be better served just doing a wire upgrade and adding a bit of juice.

I have considered the brushless route myself. My plan was to create a simple rectangular plastic motor cage, use readily available aluminum slot car wheels (with the set screws) and trued rubber tires as flywheels (which you can find in almost the exact same size as standard RS flywheels). If the diameter of the wheel bore is too small there should be sufficient room to drill them out / if it is too large I have also found sleeve adapters. The only thing that turned me away was that I have no Arduino experience and I can think of no other way to control a mob of ESC's other than buying a mob of servo adjuster and parallel wiring them to throw the 1ms signal when the circuit is open and the 2ms signal when the circuit is closed. My plan was not for an "afterburner" setup but for a double barrel full out RS which would have had a total of 5 brushless motors. I wasn't concerned with expense but my lack of knowledge makes the cost irrelevant.

Motors are tricky. You need a balance of torque, RPM, and cost efficiency. It is just a nightmare to dig up specs on some motors. It also depends on how deep your pockets are. There are 180 size motors used for slot cars that will turn 100,000 RPM's but probably get hot as lava and some can run well over $200 a pop. I would imagine plastic flywheels turning at hellish speeds on a hot motor will probably either melt or fly off the shaft causing major damage but I haven't investigated that.

This place has a lot of motors but there are tons of choices all over. I just happen to like this spot because they give you torque and RPM specs at least.

As far as grip... you can probably devise ridiculous grip fairly simply but the down side is you are going to chew darts up.
Try Barricade flywheels and let me know how that works.


photo courtesy and property of Modworks....obviously

How about this? http://www.hobbyking...Turnigy 2200mah
Will the 20c one work too?

This is what I purchased to use in my RS Xtreme Pro 180 setup

I also want to correct myself. The lipos I linked will fit in the battery "compartment". I am not sure if they will fit with the actual battery "tray" still installed.

You want this

Fits right in battery tray.

That is quite a parts list and I can now see why you are worried about your $300 budget. Two pieces in your build sheet caught my eye, the Pololu stepdown regulator and the Burst Wizard. The Burst Wizard seems like a nice all in one fire control unit, but couldn't the same thing be accomplished by using some electronic timers and setting the correct time delay to a relay for the pusher motor? It would take some additional work, but it would be a very simple system to duplicate once designed. With the stepdown regulator, are you going to be able to cool it enough to maintain the 9V that you want to send to the pusher motor? Also, what pusher motor are you planning on using? The stepdown regulator appears to have a voltage rise that goes from 9V to 10.8V as current rises from 0 to 2.5 amps.

The rest of your build seems really nice and I would like to see the finished product as I am curious as to how the flywheel motors are going to handle the increased voltage.

P.S. Do you have a link tot he BSUK switch upgrade kit and motor cover? I haven't been able to find those pieces with the prices included yet. Thanks.

I am hoping the regulator will be satisfactory without any additional cooling. It wont be receiving consistent current, only when the pusher is initiated. Then again I really have no idea. I haven't the slightest clue when it comes to electronics. I read a blog or something where someone tried a similar set up using a 7.5v 2.5A stepdown regulator with success so I figured I would give it a try.

As for the burst wizard... if this is even possible I am only doing it for simplicity sake. It is easier for me to dish out a few additional dollars than to pretend I know what I am doing and buy a bunch of electronics thing-a-majiggies and try to make them work. That would just be a waste of time and money for me. BSUK is working on a plug and play select fire unit but the last time I checked it was still going to be a few months before these are available. I don't need a billion options, I just want 3 or 5 round burst.

As for the pusher motor I haven't made up my mind yet. I have a bunch of 130's. I may see how well an RM2 holds up and if it fails I may try an NSR 130. I doubt I run a 180 on the pusher unless I absolutely must. I have portioned some of budget for trial and error lol.

@Zombona I have already ordered the 3S. If it becomes too much of a hassle it wont be a waste as we have a slew of Traxxas VXL's. Unfortunately all of the 6400mah 3S batteries we had were just a couple mm too big. This is mainly just for fun anyhow, we don't do HvZ or wars and I don't plan to pepper anyone down with this unit... just wanna see what we can make happen and spend some time with my son while we are trapped indoors for the winter.

I am pretty much going the same route just some minor differences

x2 xtreme pro 180's
xtreme pro silver bushes
Pololu 9V 2.5A stepdown regulator (for the pusher)
Zippy compact 2200mah 40C 3S
Hobby King voltage / cell checker / alarm
24" 3S balance lead extension
BSUK RS wiring and switch upgrade
BSUK RS 180 motor cover
Maybe a Burst Wizard wired in on the pusher for burst fire (not sure yet if this is possible)
Picatinny rails
Red dot reflex sight
Folding front grip
25 round drum
Montacical stencils
paints, brushes, etc etc

The painting crap is eating a good portion of my budget $35 for stencils, $45 for airbrush paint and thinner, scotchbrites, sandpaper, tape blah, blah, blah. Working on a Demo 2 in 1 also (which will actually run sharks because I purchased them before I knew better so may as well run em till they're roasted). Fun stuff.

You could do it pretty easily like this:
http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=25396

A Burst Wizard would be even easier but much more expensive, it has also been done before with a Stampede here:
http://coastalbendac...-made-easy.html
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Great links, Thank you.

I get that you wanna keep your shell in tact but according to my reading, which is not personal experience, it is my understanding that NSR Shark 40's or any other 130 size can isn't going to last very long if you plan to run 3S (they will get amazingly hot and munch down brushes). I am working on an RS right now and have tried to read just about everything I can because my budget is only $300 and I hope to create something reliable and not waste $$ wishing I had went another route. If you are set on a 130 size can then your best bet is probably gonna be the shark 40's. BSUK makes nice 3D printed 180 motor covers if you want to run 180's but keep a clean look.

I like what you're doing here. I am working on an RS myself at the moment and being that I am a complete electronics idiot I am waiting as patiently as possible for one of these type units to be completed and ready for purchase. Either Gimmick or BSUK is going to have some of my cash in their pocket depending on who gets their unit running reliably first. I was wondering if something like Burst Wizard might be able to be conveniently adapted to work? Perhaps splicing it in just before the pusher... flywheels would still spin but pusher would work on a pre-set burst cycle. IDK just curious, as stated I know zippo about electronics.