Dear god you should have seen my first (and only other) mod. Full auto barricade is messy stuff.
I agree that lipo or imr would be a better choice, but I was tired and wanted to make a mod guide that any kid with a saw and some glue could follow. There are plenty other guides detailing how to wire lipos and switch wire gauge in order to improve current flow. Unlikely I'm going to paint it as I'll be using it in my high school's senior assassin game and don't wanna get dqed (as long as it still LOOKS like a normal Nerf gun I can probs use it).

What about using a paint scheme similar to one from a Borderlands game? Fiery camo, psychedelic metallics, most Maliwan or Torgue styles, something for everybody in a game with bazilliondier guns!

What's a pistol? Just asking because very few blasters need both hands to fire.

I'm planning on a four-hour round-trip in March, and that's about as far as I'm willing to drive

"I just take the heads off of shredded Elites/Streamlines (after cutting the stem down) and (Elmer's School) glue them onto headless Buzzbee darts. I only have stock blasters, and they perform at least as well as stock darts." Would these be considered "modified darts" for the purpose of bans, or is that rule only for hot-glued heads and BBs?

I just take the heads off of shredded Elites/Streamlines (after cutting the stem down) and (Elmer's School) glue them onto headless Buzzbee darts. I only have stock blasters, and they perform at least as well as stock darts.

Just wanted to note that a pair of squares (half of a cube mobstacle) can be set up at an angle under low wind conditions, which provides slightly more cover than the cube while using half the materials.

If you have a strong nerf community in your area and want to host good wars, I highly recommend taking advantage of the "buy the box" option as I did. Saves $$, although it's still expensive no matter how you

Also note that thin superglue will probably hold almost as well as MEK, although the fast drying time may make it difficult to get the clamps straight before they set. PVC cement will also probably do the job, although I think that it's a pain in the ass.

One advantage to these over our previous mobstacles is that the 4' sides make these fit in cars. 5' segments are just slightly too long to fit in anything. Unfortunately that means you will likely end up with a bunch of 2' leftover segments, which we have not yet found a use for (Hopefully some of them will become a more reasonably sized core for DTC). If you really want, you can make these with 5' or even larger sides, but beware they will likely be terrible to transport. Personally, I think the 4' size is better than 5' because it forces people to duck more if they want to be covered by the mobstacle, and gives more non-face target area to standing nerfers of average height. Also, the new style of covering discourages people going inside the mobstacles. I always planned on making a rule against that, as it encourages camping, but it was always too funny to stop when it happened.

Why not use those 2-foot segments as feet for your walls, or maybe even as knee-knocker barriers?