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#363003 Cheap Mods?

Posted by Lunas on 14 May 2018 - 02:34 PM in Modifications

A dremel to build a brass breech isnt exactly machining hardware.

Anyway, the cheapest possible mods are probably rebarrels for single-shot blasters and spring spacers. Buying replacement springs isnt too expensive, but is usually as much as/more than the material for a brass breech.

It seems to me that springer mods can be cheaper than flywheel mods, but that doing a full workover on a springer is usually going to cost more/take more time than a full workover on a flywheeler.

If youre starting from nothing and dont have the cash to build up a stash of mags, a magnum superdrum or Zuru turbo advance are probably good blasters to start back up with.

I disagree a stryfe or rapidstrike or other flywheel with 18650 or 26650 or 14500 are by far easier than doing any springer mods... and the rewards are instant... pop a pair of 26650 into a rapidstrike with a inch thick spacer or mod the tray and dump a 2s or 3s pack of choice in the rapidstrike night and day better... and from there you can jump to a rewire, motors, cages, flywheels, and li-po mods, motor controllers.

 

My first mod was to drop a pair of 14500 IMR into a stryfe with a dummy battery i made out of wood glue paper and a copper wire in fact i made 2 dummies one 2 batteries long one 1 battery long. My next step was a semi rewire where i removed the thermal fuse and all the extra safety switches. Sometime after that i added a voltage monitor and hooked it into the jam door switch. My next step is upgraded wiring and perhaps flywheel and cage swap there is an aluminum set i was eyeing.




#349295 Has anyone seen this yet?

Posted by Lunas on 24 October 2015 - 04:34 PM in Modifications

The overall mods are not super difficult your other thread where you want a bank of these on a mounted platform is more involved. The hopper and extended mag is not complicated enough to need a write-up it is just going to take the longest the first time as you get the measurements down after the first one you can pre-cut all the pipe and slap them together. The bigger issue is you need to make a 3d printed hopper and the plan is not published for it yet. Your other option is to jank it out and cut up however many paintball hoppers to get it sized right. You might find something in automotive in the form of a funnel with a lid.


To do this mod from what i see the most difficult part is to rewire the blaster your going to gut the stock wire and put a connector up in the battery area or mod the battery area to use IMR batteries but since there is more to it we will go with a 3s lipo for about 12v stock motors should work fine after you clean up the wires.

First cut all the old wires out they wont be needed you will need a spool of 18 or 16 AWG i recommend stranded and in a soft silicon insulation rather than harder pvc they are about 6-10 Bucks for 6ft of black and red wire.
The wiring will go as follows:

red from battery to switch rev switch likely the center post the other posts one is for open position being closed the other likely the used one is for push to close at least most of the nerf switches are like this.
then red from other side of rev switch to the motors and fan
black from battery to motors and fan


The blower on the top of the hopper is to push the balls through the system it needs to be able to push air out the barrel hopper needs a close to air tight cap to build positive pressure behind the balls. To do a full auto mod a part needs to be removed and a small bit needs to be cut this can be done with a pair of wire clippers or even a sharp hobby knife or the dremel.



#349288 Has anyone seen this yet?

Posted by Lunas on 24 October 2015 - 02:55 AM in Modifications

The tools needed are not anything special...


zeus blaster @ $50 each
the clear tube is gonna be more expensive and not available to me it is about 24 per 6 ft section it would take about 4.5ft per blaster
4 90* elbows per blaster 4 dollars
1 t section 1 dollar
1 cap for t section 1 dollar
$5 the fan https://www.sparkfun.../products/11270
from there the full auto mod is free
the rewire and lipo 15 dollars in materials

So each blaster is about 102 in materials

the labor is not that hard but... time consuming i would say about an hour per kinda unfair to ask this to be done at cost.

tools needed:
screwdriver
soldering iron
needle nose pliers
saw or dremmel
glue



#349246 Rapidstrike Dart Issues

Posted by Lunas on 22 October 2015 - 10:17 PM in Modifications

That's what I thought too. It seemed to have worked better stock. I'm going to get some better batteries for it and see if that helps at all, if not maybe a new set of motors... Kinda disappointed with the performance of it. I've done other battery upgrades and restrictor removals before and always the blasters have worked out much better in the past. Don't really know what the deal is with this one...

My guess is that the flywheels are spinning up at a much different RPM and tossing the dart either up or down into the barrel and giving it the wonky performance.

Humm you had to rebuild the end bell of one motor i wonder if that has anything to do with it try moving that one to the pusher?

Or replace both flywheel motors.



#349221 Rapidstrike Dart Issues

Posted by Lunas on 21 October 2015 - 03:43 AM in Modifications

To me it seems like they are not going far enough over all like mine blasts a spray of foam out much further than yours did it seemed some went sideways in the barrel and lost energy really quick.



#349180 Halloween Prop

Posted by Lunas on 18 October 2015 - 05:37 PM in Modifications

my friend got one of the storm trooper ones for 31 dollars at our local walmart...



#349162 Need advice on a Rapidstrike mod

Posted by Lunas on 17 October 2015 - 08:11 PM in Modifications

Do not use a 9V battery. It cannot supply as much amperage or last long enough to be efficient. Use instead the AA battery tray as previously suggested.

Posted Image

This is what you find in most 9v batteries, not good. A 9v is perfectly adequate for purposes such as running LEDs, but NOT for providing the power that blaster motors need to function.

hypothetically if it was only the pusher it would be fine but yes drop any notion of using a 9v. If you put a 6AA snap box in though you can toss 6 NiMH in and those are good for around 5 Amps unless you pick up a pack those can be good for much much more. A single 9 volt will make the motors sound unruly but they will bog and jam easier if you stick 2 26650 in the stock tray and put some sort of spacer in it should only need 1 inch mod done.

http://www.amazon.co...p_prd_ttl_sol_7

just need something just wide enough to fill in on either end it would be about 1 inch the gun itself can be left unmodded...

charge it



#349149 Stryfe Resistor

Posted by Lunas on 17 October 2015 - 03:38 PM in Modifications

First stop if your unwilling/unable to do it right don't do it at all.

Second the energizer charger is made for NiMH/NiCd 1.2v cells only you will either just ruin your 3.7v cells or make them live up to the fire part of the name.

Those L91 are not rechargeable if you remember the price you paid you will get 2-3 hours use out of them and then need to toss another pair in and repeat i dont know about where you live but those suckers are not cheap 10 bucks for 4 of them vs rechargeable...

The batteries you want are one of these Lipo 7.4 v if you go back to the motors the stryfe came with
if you stick with the hyper dash2
universal charger will charge any and all safely

If you do not want to mod the box to fit that battery in it you may use these stick with a good brand anything with fire in the name is a no no use 3 dummy for hyper dash or 2 or 1 dummy with stock motors.

Now onto the mistakes with the motors.

In parallel motors can suck more current they require the same voltage though the smell you are getting is your brushes burning. the hyper dash 2 motors like you yourself have posted are rated to 3v however they can suck 3-6A of current each so you need around 12A available minimally to be safe excess draw is going to cause heating of the cells and potential for discharge of fire. 15-20A would be preferred. To get the proper amps you have 2 options parallel packs (introduces balance issues and potential fire risks) or better cells. Now to continue the use of the hyper dash 2 you would need 1 3.7v battery even then it is going to over volt it a single LiFePSO4 would be closer at 3.3v but you already worked them at 8.4v 3.7 will be a vacation for them.

For the best performance you will want to go back to the old stock motors and toss 2 IMR in or the 7.4v lipo i linked.

There are hundreds of threads on many different sites including this one on why not to use batteries with fire in the name yet people still try doing so and then they ask why did my house burn down.

You can also go for a more complicated build they make dc-dc converter boards that handle decent amperage. Using one of those you can use whatever power supply you wish just dial it down to what the motors can handle.



#349127 Stryfe Resistor

Posted by Lunas on 15 October 2015 - 09:44 PM in Modifications

Noise is normal for flywheels

The only things i did with my stryfe is a rewire going from 22 gauge to 18 gauge solid core i put a battery gauge using the jam door as a off on switch for it open the gauge is on closed gauge is off greased up the trigger mech removed all the locks. Then put 2 IMR in for 8.4v with a long dummy i made using wood glue paper and more solid core wire. i can use my AA sized dummy to do 3 imr or all 4...

The stock motors shoot happily on 2 IMR 3 they get a bit angry and noisier but hit a bit harder on 4 they scream and stink and will let the smoke out if held too long.

my tray is more or less stock

I use Efest IMR 14500 cells get the v2 they are good for about 10A of current if you do go for better motors that can draw more then go for the Lipo mod.

But my stryfe does around 80-90 FPS and my darts are semi accurate to 100 ft on 2 IMR i carry a spare 2 for if i need to swap but i have yet to do so. The batteries are like 13-20 bucks on amazon for 2-4 and a charger is 20.



#349020 Need advice on a Rapidstrike mod

Posted by Lunas on 10 October 2015 - 04:10 PM in Modifications

Yea, just put an 8 AA battery tray in the normal battery slot. It ups voltage a bit, but it gives so much more current than trustfires.

he may wish to go with a 6 battery tray 12v will probably trip the thermistor... 9v will give it some punch not burn the motors as fast but using alkaline or NiMH will have a shorter run time than Lipo or li-mn

i run with 2 IMR 18650 if i was doing it over i would probably still go that route. But 26650 would fit in the tray too you just need to put a 1 inch spacer on the batteries. The charger is not that special a nitecore d4 and it will charge any li-ion and NiMH and NiCd and LiFePSO4



#349019 Stryfe Resistor

Posted by Lunas on 10 October 2015 - 03:54 PM in Modifications

that is going to depend. If he uses it stock with regular batteries there is no reason for the thermistor it just adds a little bit of resistance to the circuit. The inductors also drop the voltage a bit too but raise the amperage.

But the bottom line is unless he does a full rewire with either lipo or IMR there will be no noticeable change. And really the biggest change will be with new motors too. There is a metal flywheel cage with upgraded flywheels out there that just looks sweet some neoprene washers on the mounting posts is all i would do in addition...



#348812 18 Dart Magazine Spring

Posted by Lunas on 22 September 2015 - 10:21 PM in General Nerf

Since you can typically squeeze 19-20 darts in an 18 round mag, try moving the bottom of the spring up with a small spacer to add some pre-compression.

that is what causes the issue if you stick only 17 or 15 in the clips have less issue. Also make sure you get them loaded in the middle so they don't touch the front or back of the clip banging the back side of the clip to keep the tacky rubber from touching the front has helped prevent jams in mine. The only other way to fix this that I can think of is to lightly sand inside the front and back of the clip so it is textured rather than smooth so the darts don't get traction on the plastic.


http://black-tactica...azine-v2-p-3343 these are the only alternative i know of.



#348810 18 Dart Magazine Spring

Posted by Lunas on 22 September 2015 - 06:26 PM in General Nerf

Hello! I'm brand new to this wonderful world of Nerf and I just finished modding my first Stryfe to take out all of he locks and upgrade the junk wire. At first, all was well, but I noticed after a short time that my gun was jamming... a lot. It seems that the springs in the 18 dart N-Strike Elite magazines are a known issue and I seem to have some really bad ones. Even just a few hours loaded and they're not springing back to lift the next dart into place. I was using fresh darts and they had been loaded maybe an hour or two in advance of the game. Most of my jamming started in the early afternoon/evening when they had been loaded for about 6-8 hours.

My question is in two parts:

1. Is there a way to modify this spring to be more "springy" to stop this from happening again?

or

2. Is there a better brand of knock-off magazines that doesn't have this issue? I've been looking at the Taobao or Blasterparts banana magazines. Is one of these more reliable? I don't really want to run stock Nerf 12's, but if that's the best answer - let me know.

Thank you!

as far as i know there is no replacements or alternates for standard darts only stefans. you can try using some talc on the mag as the issue is the rubber part catching on the smooth plastic.



#348569 OMW problems

Posted by Lunas on 28 August 2015 - 07:23 PM in Modifications

IIRC from a Drac video, the 7kg spring is required to drive the stage 3 extended barrel (it induces too much barrel drag otherwise).

yes but it also makes the blaster alot harder to prime.

Also about that extended barrel it sucks the attachment point it has is a slight upgrade but the barrel itself sucks if memory serves omw went back and tweaked it to be bigger around so it caused less drag... I felt this was a shame as i liked the look of the stage 3 kit but when i found out the drawbacks and that the 7kg spring + the barrel ended up with worse ranges and speeds than stage 1 and 2 i decided not to bother with stage 3... And guess what i don't have any issues with my retaliator lockup all locks removed and it works perfectly it is gathering dust as i have moved onto a stryfe and rapid strike but my advise to solve the lock up issues is unscrew the barrel and use the 5kg spring after making sure the trigger and catch springs are the upgraded ones and did not slip out of place...

If you absolutely need to use the extended barrel i suggest brassing it make sure you get big enough brass. To widen the barrel a dowel with a piece of sand paper wrapped around it then chucked in a drill will make short work of opening it up then push a brass 7/16 size tube down it if it ends up too loose you can glue it but it should fit so snugly it wont need anything. It will be wider and it should solve the issue with the barrel reducing the distance and speed.



#348546 OMW problems

Posted by Lunas on 27 August 2015 - 07:34 PM in Modifications

Can the Catch move freely? Also, Is the prime-length correct and and is is pushing the plunger all the way back to meet the catch?

I have the #1 and #2 kit on my retaliator did you use the supplied spring for the catch or the old spring. The supplied spring is of a higher strength than the old spring. I also suggest going with the 5kg spring vs the 7kg spring that comes with the 3rd stage kit. The 7kg does not improve it that much over the 5kg just makes it much much harder to prime.



#348545 How To Choose The Best Nerf Gun For A Small Child. ?

Posted by Lunas on 27 August 2015 - 07:29 PM in General Nerf

Depending on the age i would say a stryfe with NiMH batteries fully stock that should be good for age 4+ give them 6 round or 12 round clips as they grow old enough they can grow into the 18 rounders. The one thing i might do is remove the dart jammer...

Younger than that i would say a jolt small enough for them easy enough to prime it front loads. The fire strike might be a bit difficult for some younger kids and prone to breaking the priming handle...



#348500 Zeus Hopper

Posted by Lunas on 24 August 2015 - 05:25 AM in Modifications

how does it push the balls forward



#348455 Powerful motors

Posted by Lunas on 20 August 2015 - 04:03 AM in Modifications

was saying that for the purposes of you likely have hundreds of darts where as just getting into the zeus you would only have the ammo it came with if you were to pick this up for modding a fundamental expense rises across the board new ammo stock pile new mag stock pile if your purposes are for a nerf war with shock and awe factor i dont see it being all that useful that said i can see nerf phasing out darts for this. engineering can only take the darts so far.



#348454 Srtyfe Battery Inquiries

Posted by Lunas on 20 August 2015 - 01:52 AM in Modifications

1. If I run a 2s 25c LiPo, will it be weaker than Ultrafires or not? (High Discharge but low voltage)
A. It will be equal to running 2 ultrafires
2. If I run a 3s 20c LiPo, is it necessary to change my rev switch into a high current micro switch?
A. Maybe the original switches are rated much lower they will eventually burn out and don't pass as much current but stock motors on 3s you can skip the switch upgrade for now you should think hard about doing it eventually.
3. If I run a 500mAh pack and I'm playing for 5 hours, do I need to bring 2 packs? (don't want to cut shell)
A. depends on motors and play style how heavy handed you are on the rev switch. From what i have found 800-1000 is the biggest that fits in a stryfe with a little bit of modding as in removing dividers and support ribs on the battery door
4. Can anybody give me a link for tutorials on how to charge LiPos using a smart charger? (maybe an IMAX B6 Balance Charger?)
A. Google youtube then "how to use imax b6. first result
5. My LiPo has a JST discharge plug and a JST-XH balance plug, if I want to plug both into my Stryfe or my balance charger, what terminals should I use for the Stryfe and the charger? (Male/Female)
A. The stryfe wont have anything you will need to install something to plug into the balance port and the discharge the jst is what you will plug into the stryfe you will need something like this
6.Do stock motors spin fast on a 2s LiPo? (Related to Question 1)
A. I find they do fine on 2 IMR which would be like a 2s 700mAH 10c
7. How do I solder a Female JST plug to my wire to plug LiPos in? (if you have a link, it's fine)
http://www.amazon.co... plug connector
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqV2xU1fee8
it should be pretty self explanatory you run the two wires into the guts of the stryfe and where the 2 wires connect to the battery tray you connect the jst

google and search will both give you numerous how to on modding the stryfe most commonly a rewire mod first result on google search https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4AR9fvwlYw ONLY thing i have to say about the video is those "resistors" are not resistors they are Transistors they drop voltage and increase amperage but are not needed.

odd how all of your questions are not yes or no...

another useful bit of knowledge is here is a listing of max acceptable amperage for a given wire size we would be looking at both chassis is more short bursts and what we would use primarily but for longer use the transmission is important too as at a given amperage the wire will heat up and eventually melt
AWG max Amp chassis  max Amp power transmission
10	55	      15
11	47	      12	
12	41	       9.3	
13	35	       7.4	
14	32	       5.9	
15	28	       4.7	
16	22	       3.7	
17	19	       2.9	
18	16	       2.3	
19	14	       1.8	
20	11	       1.5



#348439 Powerful motors

Posted by Lunas on 19 August 2015 - 01:17 AM in Modifications

Wait a second... this gives me an idea! If the Zeus has 380 motors, and Xtreme Productions (home of the xtreme pro 180) makes 380 motors... You see where I'm going.

different ammo as far as i know few mods there was one that was full auto at 11v looked beastly



#348361 Powerful motors

Posted by Lunas on 12 August 2015 - 06:49 PM in Modifications

I just want to know. Torque is for the efficiency. That doesn't mean I don't want rpm.

EDIT: The flywheels I'll use will make slippage more minor of a problem.

there is only so much you can do vs slippage i suppose the torque would help with heavier wheels too...



#348354 Powerful motors

Posted by Lunas on 12 August 2015 - 12:07 AM in Modifications

Exotics are just fine. I just want to know are there any better ones.


Torque is the focus, not rpm!

Why do you need super high torque... The fps comes from rpm the load of the darts comes from torque. So heavier darts would be the only benefit and it might hit harder but it would not go as far and would have greater slippage on the darts.



#348109 Rapidstrike Batteries

Posted by Lunas on 28 July 2015 - 07:09 PM in Modifications

I use a pair of 18650 IMR in my rapidstrike a pair of 26650 would fit too and not need a tray of their own. and you can get 26650 that can do up to 30-60A with a rather high capacity.

alternately the lipo pack would also fit all you do is remove 2 screws from the stock tray the front plate comes off and you then shove the lipo in the stock area and put the plate back...



#348100 Looking for good Stryfe motors!

Posted by Lunas on 27 July 2015 - 11:46 PM in Modifications

I have ran 2 IMRs before, and I have never had to. The stock one works just fine with my wire setup, which is simply battery box -> rev switch -> motors

the stock switch is good for around 3 amps not much more can be drawn through it to get the very most out of it you should replace it or use a relay to have a high current and a low current side.



#348077 Looking for good Stryfe motors!

Posted by Lunas on 26 July 2015 - 11:59 PM in Modifications

I am also wondering if you need to replace the rev switch.

you should if you want a bit more complex of a circuit you could put a relay or a dc-dc voltage and current controller it would offer a bit of adjustment for you.



#347904 Stryfe Flywheel Braking

Posted by Lunas on 17 July 2015 - 09:07 PM in Modifications

So for the later part of the past few months I have been working on a Stryfe Falcon 130 build. I want to add some sort of braking to the motors so when I let go of the rev trigger the motors stop almost immediately. I have seen videos of finished projects of this type but no diagrams on how the circuit is set up. I know I need to run a wire from the motors to the switch but am un sure if it's off of the positive or negative wire and to what terminal on the switch (I think it's to the Normally closed terminal (also what terminal is that, my wiring loom is coming to me prebuilt from http://www.blasterte...3_13607495.aspx)). If someone could help me out in pointing me in a direction as to a diagram or better yet pictures, I'd be more than appreciated. If it helps any I plan on running this blaster off of a 3S Lipo (not sure if it makes any difference)

not really for motor braking it is connecting the positive and negative side of the motors the diode is the actual thing you want though as it serves the same purpose and is actually something your supposed to do with dc motors or inductors...


You should put a diode across the terminals of the motor this will stop them from generating power and feeding it back into the circuit as they spin down. Add the diode pointing towards the positive on both motors this is the safest method and costs very little i think 2 diodes can be had for like 10 cents...

Or you can take the jam door switch and put it as the new rev switch the second and 3rd pin 2 pins will be the on off for the rev circuit and the 1st pin connected to the negative on the battery tray is the brake...

http://www.mouser.co...fX4nEEHllp3mZcc .18 cents each you need 2



#347641 Battery Upgrades

Posted by Lunas on 03 July 2015 - 08:58 PM in Modifications

MOST battery types are dangerous if mistreated. Ultrafire/trustfires can explode if overdrawn (There are reports of this happening in stampedes). IMRs can spew fire if punctured. LiPos will spew fire if punctured and shorted. Rule of thumb when dealing with ANYTHING explosive/flammable? Take precautions, and handle it appropriately.

Fact: Gasoline is extremely explosive, but we pump GALLONS of it inside our cars and DRIVE AROUND over 70 MPH!!!

There are very few battery failures in Nerf period. And I imagine they all stem from abuse or overdrawing the battery with too much current. You see a lot more battery failures in quad copters because they ride the jagged line of max current and weight and sometimes mess up the math. Just build some cushion so you don't draw too much amperage from your battery and don't poke it with nails/jagged edges.

yep we are all driving rolling bombs (gasoline or lithium battery packs) carrying bombs (any portable device with a lipo example any cell phone or laptop or tablet) and wearing bombs on our wrists (any smartwatch)


for that matter alkaline batteries can explode too and they are filled with potassium phosphate or lye...

If you really want something that wont explode stick to potatoes and lemons...



#347603 Battery Upgrades

Posted by Lunas on 01 July 2015 - 10:12 PM in Modifications

Because Ultrafires are crap batteries. They have very low current, lots of voltage sag, and their specs are HIGHLY exaggerated. They are designed for flashlights, not motors.

and imr are less crap but still not ideal for anything but lights. Lipo packs are best if you need convenience and have good lights you might have better options with imr. If you have r/c and use lipo for more than just nerf then lipo might be better.



#347266 flywheel idea

Posted by Lunas on 17 June 2015 - 08:51 PM in Modifications

it is kinda nerdy but i wanted to do a brushless for the startup sound turn on the gun for the 4 startup beeps then the motor sounds...



#347242 flywheel idea

Posted by Lunas on 16 June 2015 - 11:47 PM in Modifications

Why hasn't anyone tried brushless motors? Hobbyking and eBay have tons of cheap outrunner brushless motors and ESCs. It looks like you could build a simple servo controller for the ESCs with a 555 timer chip and a few resistors and caps. Plus with an outrunner motor you should be able to just screw the flywheel right to the motor. Brushless motors can take much more voltage and are more durable too.
Just wondering?

they have

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeA81xYm8bg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhFn7DkRkiM



#347182 Demolisher mod

Posted by Lunas on 13 June 2015 - 07:39 PM in Modifications

Stall current draw is for a very short period, unless there is a jam. I have not worked out the math myself, but I am sure someone in the business already has. Also "most" blasters is really over selling it.



I suppose i could clarify that a bit more to most heavily modified with motor swaps. Either way anything but semi stock is going to pull more than 3 amps on those momentary spikes and those momentary spikes are bad for the batteries and it is enough that trustfires are not particularly up to the task... Will a difference be noticed probably not. But I would rather not take the chance on those li-ion venting on me...



#347168 Demolisher mod

Posted by Lunas on 12 June 2015 - 07:37 PM in Modifications

Hey, have you been out to one of our wars in Wilsonville? If not, we'll have another next month on the 18th.




I have yet to see any real evidence of this happening in our hobby. I have seen accounts of it in stupid situations, like vaporizer pens, but those people are all trying to kill themselves anyway.

yeah those vape sticks basically short the battery when they use them...

but even if they are safe enough they still only deal 1-3 amps when most nerf guns use around 7-8 amps stall unless your rocking stock motors those only draw close to 3.



#347154 Demolisher mod

Posted by Lunas on 12 June 2015 - 01:02 AM in Modifications

So I am working on a Demolisher any I already took out all the locks any sawed off the rocket launcher, but I am wondering two things, 1: what batteries should I use? 3 Trust Fires and a dummy? Or something else? 2: If I paint, should I paint the inner shell too? Sorry I'm a bit of a newbie, but I've been modding for at least 4 months now so I still got questions! Thanks.

ideally a lipo 2s or 3s with a motor replacement and full rewire. 10-400 amp discharge

less ideally 2-3 IMR 14500 or 18650 stock motor or upgraded motors with rewire 10-60 amp discharge

even less 6 AA eneloops 3-5 amp discharge

terrible trustfire 2-3 1-3 amp discharge tendency to explode or catch fire when mistreated.

non upgrade aa 4 1.5 amp discharge

Painting anywhere that is not seen or rubs plastic on plastic is not advised so the mag well and the top of the mag.



#347089 Rapidstrike help

Posted by Lunas on 09 June 2015 - 02:18 AM in Modifications

my brother had put away his rapid strike for a couple of weeks, and now the clip lock button is stuck in the release position making it impossible to keep a clip in it. if anyone has had this problem or knows how I may be able to fix it that would be a lot of help.

try actuating it a few times or take it apart.



#347071 Stampede Problems

Posted by Lunas on 06 June 2015 - 07:31 PM in Modifications

try spinning the motor it might be stuck... or burnt out another thing would be make sure all the locks are actuated...

Also kill leader... dont you need a custom Rapidstrike or stryfe/rayven for that these days...



#346994 LiFePo vs Ultrafire vs Efest IMR

Posted by Lunas on 30 May 2015 - 12:23 PM in Modifications

Found some of these 14500 size batteries I hadn't seen before:
http://pages.ebay.co...5647735&alt=web

They look like a great deal, but before buying some I thought I'd ask here if anyone has had experience with them. How do they compare to LiIon batteries like IMRs or Ultrafires? I would be running these in a resistor/lock free stryfe circuit with the stock motors. I've been using ultrafires in all my stryfe mods before now, and they've worked just fine for me. These LiFePo batteries, however, look to be cheaper and they come from the US. Thanks for the help!

~Rave

not so fast

those from what i can find are likely only rated to 2C so 1.4 AMP if the 700 mAh is correct. Lifepo4 is a more durable chemistry and frequently found to be able to do up to 30C. however i will now throw back these are cheap Chinese cells i know everything i made there these days but the 700mAh is definitely exagerated it is likely closer to 450-550mAh in which case it is only good for 1.1 Amp discharge and being they are meant for solar lights i would think this is most likely the case. If these were unprotected cells and they could do 30C that is still only ~15 Amps if it is indeed 500 mAh if it actually is 700 and a bare unprotected cell and can do 30C your looking at 21 Amps.

That is also assuming these are indeed lifepo4 cells there is a story about some knock off tenergy lifepo4 exploding inside a flashlight while the owner was holding it in his mouth working on his truck. The knock offs were never found so it could never be determined definitively but it was believed they were actually li-ion. Not much was left of the flashlight body either. What set those off was believed to be thermal shock.


So i guess what im trying to tell you is don't take your life in the hands of cheap batteries... these also require a compatible charger li-ion chargers are not all compatible... and just because the seller is in the US does not mean they are not made overseas (they say made in CHINA on the side)


Efest IMR v2 Li-Mn 3.7-4.2v 9.7 Amp discharge rate safer chemistry limited medium capacity more expensive than li-ion
Ultrafire Li-Ion 3.7v-4.2v 2-3A discharge unsafe delicate chemistry Highest capacity cheapest
Lifepo4 3.3v 1a-21A typical discharge safest chemistry and most expensive lowest capacity

Imr is Lithium manganese chemistry abbreviated Li-Mn
Ultrafires are li-ion which are lithium cobalt
Lifepo4 are lithium iron phosphate



#346976 Aluminum Flywheels

Posted by Lunas on 29 May 2015 - 02:09 AM in Modifications

For the record, you don't want lighter flywheels, they don't spin faster or anything. Heavier flywheels retain more rotational inertia and are better for repeated firing than a lighter wheel. A light wheel will spool up to full speed more quickly (possibly an unnoticeably small amount, assuming you've spent as much on a motor system as you have on these flywheels), but will lose more energy with each shot.

That said, it's possible that with aluminum wheels conventional wisdom for plastic wheels may not apply. It's likely that these are already more than heavy enough to not be affected by a stream of darts flying through. Either way, I wouldn't drill holes in your nice, new, one-of-a-kind flywheels unless your motors aren't up to snuff, even then I'd suggest upgrading the motors instead.

you would want as much weight to the outside ring as you can. With the overall weight being as low as possible. That said if your motors can spin them up fine i would not bother with holes if they have issues with wind up time then lighten them but right now they are probably evenly weighted any holes will change the balance.



#346967 Aluminum Flywheels

Posted by Lunas on 28 May 2015 - 06:03 PM in Modifications

I don't understand why people are doing this.

https://blasted.de/t4924/

Report back with chronograph readings, but I have a sinking suspicion you just threw away your money.

it is about surface area the higher the surface area the more contact or grip on the dart thus the more kinetic energy can be transferred to the dart.



To the op make a video to capture the sound it makes with those wheels also i would try it without roughing the surface first the smoothness might be a factor in gripping the dart so you may wish to use 1000-2000+ grit to polish the wheels to a mirror like finish for more grip...



#346938 Accuracy mods

Posted by Lunas on 26 May 2015 - 01:14 AM in Modifications

a heavier dart will fly straighter and wont be blown around by wind as much as a lighter/smaller one, but see how long you can shoot massively heavy darts at people until they get real upset




we dont use slurs here, we're PC as fuck

yep also dont get used to a 7kg spring those springers can make stock darts hit hard with the ar bored out.



#346919 Accuracy mods

Posted by Lunas on 24 May 2015 - 04:29 PM in Modifications

For accuraccy mods you have 2 places you can change things the barrel or the darts you fire.

Darts you run into allowable vs not allowable and you have to worry about getting yours back at the end. So that leaves the barrel you can brass them and it helps but can decrease ranges...

i believe koush darts are allowed and also fix most of what causes the issues with nerf but you will probably loose alot of them.

modding the darts you can make nerf darts better by filling the tips with hot glue but this may not be allowed also reduces the range on them.