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#336957 Nerf recon not working

Posted by BenFett on 09 February 2014 - 07:01 PM in Modifications

I removed it, because of lord dracs recon mod tutorial

I can't help on this specific topic, though it doesn't seem to need anything else. I just wanted to say never, and I mean ever, do a mod or even take apart your blaster without viewing multiple tutorials. I also like to separate the blaster's halves and work the function of the blaster a few times to understand it before I mess with the internals at all. Don't ever just follow one little easy tutorial, yes, Lurd Demuncurler (or whatever you guys call him xD) and coop's videos are really easy to understand and follow, they are never the one stop guide to modding your blaster. Look around, do some research, every little bit of understanding helps you not fall into these kinda of mistakes. Hope you get everything working again.

#336869 GRID CODE MARCH 2ND 2014

Posted by BenFett on 05 February 2014 - 12:41 PM in Nerf Wars

Six and a half hours away... Gosh dang it... Anyone coming from this direction?

#336791 Glue/Solvent weld removal?

Posted by BenFett on 01 February 2014 - 06:41 PM in Modifications

I'm totally lost... It doesn't seem like there is anything holding these halves together, but no matter how hard I try I can't get them apart, I don't even think that this whole topic was relevant, because now that I look at it, the places that I thought were glued or solvent welded dont seem to actually be held together at all, it just seems like it's friction holding it together. There are a lot of friction points, but still, there's a point where I start to believe there's hidden glue or something else at play here, has anyone else had this issue?

Edit: nevermind, sneaky little frikin toy manufacturers has just a few glued spots in random, hidden locations around the turret that I couldn't see, finally got it apart.

#336790 Glue/Solvent weld removal?

Posted by BenFett on 01 February 2014 - 05:56 PM in Modifications

Alright, thanks, I'll give that a try.

#336787 Glue/Solvent weld removal?

Posted by BenFett on 01 February 2014 - 05:08 PM in Modifications

Hey guys, so I got a ERTL rapid fire shotgun in the mail today, and I've been working on ForsakenAngel24's "doomsayer" mod guide (http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=9845) . I have it all taken apart and understood, except the front panel to the turret came off not attached to one half of the clear yellow barrels. So now I have both layers of the barrels stuck together, and I believe they are glued or solvent welded together, does anyone know how to get them apart? I did some quick searching but I can't find an answer to this. (Well google and nerfhaven's search can't find an answer. :P)


Posted by BenFett on 30 January 2014 - 08:44 PM in General Nerf

I'm up for some Ohio nerf action sometime guys, whether it's a mod party, a hangout, a game, anything. If you can't host I'll be able to up here near Cleveland.

#336732 Broken Mav

Posted by BenFett on 29 January 2014 - 01:39 AM in General Nerf

You should be able to get a replacement maverick catch for around a buck shipped if you choose that route. In the mean time, you can do an immediate fix with superglue. For long term I would look into dremeling/drilling a little slot crossing the crack and supergluing a piece of paper clip (or maybe coat hanger if you want to be really thorough, not sure if that would make the remaining plastic too weak to fit it) in there. I'm not sure how tight the specifications are but you might have issues with the catch moving up and down like it's supposed to if you use epoxy and it's very easy to apply too much.

I agree with blue here that it's awfully easy to apply too much epoxy, the only reason I didn't recommend super glue is because I've had issues with super glues before, mainly because I buy the really cheap stuff. I've only had positive experiences with epoxy, so that's usually my instant recommendation nowadays. I really like your idea on using a bit of wire inside the piece, I'll probably end up using that method if I break something of my own.

#336723 Broken Mav

Posted by BenFett on 28 January 2014 - 08:31 PM in General Nerf

I would give two part epoxy a try, you can find it at nearly every hardware store and it should be strong enough as long as you don't up the spring power a whole ton. I would also recommend posting future issues like this in the "Modifications" area of the forums. Welcome to NH, make sure you read the new member's guide.

Edit: If that doesn't work I have a spare set of mav internals that works perfectly except it needs a new O-ring that I could sell you for just a few bucks. Or if you want I could just sell you the catch instead of the whole set.

#336720 Any nerfers in or around the amarillo,Tx area/texas panhandle?

Posted by BenFett on 28 January 2014 - 06:35 PM in General Nerf

Ooops! Didn't realize I put it in trading! How do I change that?

You can't, a mod will hop along sometime and lock it, no worries, we all make those mistakes sometime. *Cough Cough* Me. *Cough*

#336716 Any nerfers in or around the amarillo,Tx area/texas panhandle?

Posted by BenFett on 28 January 2014 - 04:30 PM in General Nerf

I think this generally belongs in the "General Nerf" section.

#336672 stefan are shorter than elite stock?

Posted by BenFett on 26 January 2014 - 08:56 PM in General Nerf

Here's a good guide to making stefans work in the CS blasters pretty easily: http://modworks.blog...t-clip-mod.html You will still have to remove the air restrictors in your blasters before you can use stefans in them though.

#336302 Rough cut catching issues.

Posted by BenFett on 03 January 2014 - 02:28 PM in Modifications

Well I figured out what I did wrong, I cut just a little too much and I took off the little tabs that hold down the plunger rods... Uhg, my fault for not seeing those before though. I'm not sure if there's any way to fix it now, I'm going to try and run a band of metal over the top of it that just might do it, oh well, I'll see what happens in the future.

#336298 Rough cut catching issues.

Posted by BenFett on 03 January 2014 - 12:45 PM in Modifications

Hey guys, so I cut down my rough cut yesterday for making into a masterkey, and after finishing I went to test it, and now one of the plungers won't stay in its catches position. I'm worried I cut too much off of it. Do the plunger rods press against the top of the shell in the fully cocked position? Because that is the part I cut off, and I'm worried I just ruined my rough cut..

Edit: Oh, forgot to mention, it's completely stock except for the cuts in it, though with my first cut I didn't clean the shell before putting the internals back in it, so the mechanism is rather filled with shreds of the shell, I'm not sure if that was relevant, just wanted to make sure you guys know everything.

#336240 U.G.L.Y. S.W.E.A.T.E.R. Jan 25th

Posted by BenFett on 01 January 2014 - 05:28 PM in Nerf Wars

Oh, in that case I'm totally up for it. The only potential problem would be finding room for everybody's stuff, but I'm sure we can make it work.

Okay, sweet, thanks, I'll get into contact with you later once I figure out if I'm going or not.

#336235 U.G.L.Y. S.W.E.A.T.E.R. Jan 25th

Posted by BenFett on 01 January 2014 - 03:38 PM in Nerf Wars

Sorry man, but that would be a lot of extra driving. Cleveland isn't on the way at all for me.

Oh yeah, I wouldn't expect you to drive up here to meet me, I'd get a ride down there, but you don't know me, so that might not be something you'd be okay with, it'd just cut a few hours off my travel time, no pressure, just wondering what you think about that.

#336205 U.G.L.Y. S.W.E.A.T.E.R. Jan 25th

Posted by BenFett on 31 December 2013 - 06:31 PM in Nerf Wars

Would I be able to get a ride from you NerfMonkey? I'm debating going to this war, I won't be kitted out at all for an NIC war, but it could be a lot of fun. First NIC war hopefully!

#336144 Any nerfers in or around Cleveland OH?

Posted by BenFett on 29 December 2013 - 02:54 PM in General Nerf

I'm based in Dayton, but spend most of my time up at Toledo for school.

You can look in the members tab and sort via location to find anybody actually in Cleveland.

Oh, true, didn't even think about checking to see I'd there was a sort feature in the members tab.

Ah, very cool, I used to live pretty close to Dayton.

#336115 Any nerfers in or around Cleveland OH?

Posted by BenFett on 27 December 2013 - 10:35 PM in General Nerf

Hey guys, just wondering if there are any of you around Cleveland, I know there are quite a bit of you around OSU in Columbus, but I'd like to meet some nerfers around me to hang out with, mod, trade, plan wars with, ect.

#335902 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by BenFett on 11 December 2013 - 09:37 PM in Modifications

Hey guys, decided to throw a post up in here about the only three finished blasters of mine so far (Loosely, the nitefinder still needs to be sealed and my firestrike needs some repairs.)

This is a christmas present for my sister, a modded and splatter-painted maverick:
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Another christmas present for a good friend of mine, a minimized nitefinder, using cut up pieces of the dart holder/flashlight and a ton of epoxy putty to make a pretty awesome looking minimization in my opinion!
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My pride and joy, and my first mod, a minimized firestrike, with a cpvc barrel and a very impressive air seal!
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That's all for now, feel free to message me for any feedback or questions! I'm looking forward to christmas, hopefully I'll be getting a stryfe, a rapidstrike, and a rough cut to masterkey onto one of them (Still don't know which one), and I'll be modding my friend's newly acquired stryfe as well, so I look forward to that, anyways, that's all I have... for now!

#335669 Barricade or Stryfe

Posted by BenFett on 26 November 2013 - 11:57 PM in Modifications

Hey dude, sounds like a cool project, I had an idea, depending on how big the internals of a rapidstrike are (Ive never owned one, so I don't know) you might be able to cut it down, and then just wire the button from the trigger to the button on the outside of the box, since it uses a servo to actuate the firing in stock form, that way you wouldnt have to make your own servo movement for the trigger. (I could be totally wrong, but thats how it seems to work from what I've seen about it, sorry if this is totally wrong, haha.)

Heres a picture of the rapidstrike, it doesnt seem very large at all if you cut it down in the same way as the stryfe:
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#335551 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by BenFett on 19 November 2013 - 12:22 PM in Modifications

Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it, hopefully my project will turn out at least decent, haha, we'll find out sometime after Christmas I guess.

#335511 BenFett's first serious mod!

Posted by BenFett on 17 November 2013 - 02:03 PM in Modifications

I apologize for this being in the wrong place, now that I have actually looked around and payed attention to it, this really shouldn't be here, I'll re-post this in the modification and picture thread tomorrow, or as soon as this is deleted or locked to prevent double posting, sorry again guys, should've looked around a bit before i just blindly posted.

Hey guys, I've just recently gotten back into nerf guns, mainly into the modding and mechanical side of it, theres just something I love about tinkering with blasters! I picked up a FireStrike a few days ago, and for those few days I was debating whether or not i wanted to minimize it and remove the laser/dart holder. Sadly, but also gladly, upon taking it apart the second time the laser died on me. The minimization and the modding was definitely a great project for my first, and a pretty good challenge. Anyways, I'll show off a few pictures of the finished product.

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This last picture is of the minimization, I covered the holes made by cutting out the laser and ammo holder with small pieces of a plastic called styrene. Styrene is a nice type of plastic you can buy in small sheets at hobby shops, its usually used for model making and stuff like that.

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I used a base coat of black vinyl dye, with "Model Master" classic white hand paint for the details. I'm usually rather terrible with hand painting, but I found these miracle workers called "Microbrushes", they look basically like a birthday candle, and the tip of them is a puffed up ball of fibres. It captures a drop of paint and you just run it along the surface of whatever you are painting, and it covers it perfectly, i highly recommend them to anyone who is as bad as i am at hand painting, haha.

Here is a link to the product page of the microbrushes: http://microbrush.co...s.asp?categID=8

Edit: Oh, sorry, didn't realize I should've posted it in the modification and picture thread, figured that was just for people who wanted to post pictures, instead of fully writing a post about it, my apologies.

#335510 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by BenFett on 17 November 2013 - 01:34 PM in Modifications

Oh man, I have no idea what to use now, haha, so if I'm going to start with just the stock motors and not buy the pro 180s, should I use the efests if im willing to spend the money? Also, since the voltage on the efests is a lot more, should I just use one or two?

I like the idea of a lipo if im adding the motors, though thats in a realm I've never gotten into, and I'm not sure what changes (If any) I'd need to do to make the gun work correctly.

(excuse my idiocy on this topic guys, this is not something I've ever gotten into.)

#335492 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by BenFett on 16 November 2013 - 09:26 PM in Modifications

FPS tests have proven that simple overvolting of the stock motors gives much better performance than replacing the stock motors with RM2s and running at stock voltage. As long as you use good batteries, like eFest 14500 cells (not Trustfires).

I consider battery replacement and thermister removal to be MUCH easier than motor replacement...

If you want better performance, definitely do IMR instead of Trustfire. Trustfires do not have the current supply capability that we want for this application. They have relatively low discharge rates compared to other Lithium battery types. IMRs are also safer.

Oh, thanks, I thought trustfires were much better than that, they seem like the standard battery to purchase from tutorials and such that i have watched, I'll definitely get those batteries instead, do you have a charger recommendation? I was just going with the trustfire brand charger but i figure the new batteries might be slightly different.

Also, I'm currently nearing the end of a modification project on a firestrike, so hope you guys give me some feedback when I post that, probably tomorrow or the next day.

#335424 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by BenFett on 15 November 2013 - 01:24 PM in Modifications

My recommendation would be to start out with the RM2 motors, that way if you mess up, it's no big deal since they're so cheap. Once you get good at soldering things together, and you feel confident in your ability to modify the shell and rewire everything, then you can move up to the Pro 180s.

Also, welcome to NerfHaven!

Thanks for the welcome! I myself am pretty confident in my soldering ability 'currently' (Ba dum chh (Oh god that was terrible...)), and i am planning on probably sticking to the stock motors with 3 trustfires and a dummy battery, then moving up to the Pro 180s, I didnt ralize the RM2s have that many issues, and even though they are cheap I'd much rather spend more money for the reliability than for a motor that will last me just a little while.

Also, are the resistor looking things on the motors actually resistors? On one of the videos i watched someone was saying how they weren't actually resistors and removing them wont make a huge difference, while on most other tutorials everyone just removes them without second thought.

#335419 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by BenFett on 15 November 2013 - 11:34 AM in Modifications

Hey guys, so for Christmas I'm trying to get myself a stryfe so I can start to learn modding for the flywheel blasters, and I'd like to experiment with putting a replacement motor in it. I have looked at nearly all the mod tutorials that i can find, and many recommend the "Pro 180" motors that coop tends to use, but I've also seen a thread on here about the "RM2". I was very interested in the "RM2"s, due to the price difference, but I saw someone post in the comments of one of coop's videos asking how well they work, and he said that he believes they don't perform as well as even the stock motors. I would really appreciate some clarification if you guys don't mind, and I apologize if this has been asked, or is posted somewhere already, I just could not find a comparison of both the motors. Thank you in advance guys.

Edit: (Because I'm out of daily posts)
Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it, if anyone has any more tips to do with the stryfe I'd love to hear them!