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There have been 31 items by CoolpantsMcgee (Search limited from 05-September 94)
They're only about 5 bucks. And turn your 10 ish pump big blast. Into a 2 pump one.
I would definitely buy one assuming it's made to the same size specs as the stock boltsled. It would be sweet to be able to have them dyed a custom color, too. My understanding of molding is limited, but I don't think that would be too hard for you to manage for an extra few bucks?
Agreed, I would love to have one or two purple and green boltsleds.
If you're strictly using streamlines use all of the above except use a 9/16ths brass SGnerf styled angel breech.
Paintjob reccomendations... basically anything by banshee, or pSyk's video tutorials.
I hope everything goes well on your first longshot.
If it is the darker colored version then it is a nice find. Buf If it is the blue and orange version then DO NOT SELL IT (at least right now) because theres at least 10 darker versions that I know of out there but theres only two known orange and light blue ones because they came from a very obscure line. And they could be worth over $500 depending on condition and the buyer. But as said before me the darker version could potentially be worth around $200.
If you want to sell it or mod it then go ahead its your blaster and I won't try to stop you.
But either way, You sir are one lucky nerfer.
EDIT: darker version as in purple tank.
The spring was what pushes thd rubber seal from the oprv up to the front of the pump head so it sealed properly up until the airtank got enough pressure to compress the spring which would move the rubber seal every time you pumped it so that it would release the pressure in the pump tube so you didn't pump more air into your tank so you wouldn't blow your tank up. EDIT: (sorry if that last part was pretty confusing) If you want me to try add and fix it for you I probably can. I would just need an assortment of small weak springs which I could probably make on my own or find on my own to try and repair the pump. And since its just me fixing an oprv all you would need to pay for is shipping for when I send the blaster back to you. And the pump head is glued /solvent welded to the pump shaft.
I've got a heat gun that I'll try on the orange rings when I get home and see if I can't get em off without destroying them.
So there's supposed to be a spring that goes over the little white plastic piece in between where the pump handle comes off? I don't recall there ever being one there, but then again it's been several SEVERAL years since I've seen this gun (much less used it). If there was a spring in there it's long gone. Is the missing spring what kept the pump handle attached?
And that rubber and plastic piece is your oprv ( over pressure release valve) and those pieces keep you from overpumping your blaster. I would reccommend trying to find the spring and putting it back in place so you don't blow out your really rare and expensive tank.
It has the same size small tank, the only difference is the second oprv. I'm not sure what the older ones was set at, but this one limits it to 3 pumps. The one I plugged is super loud and seems like it shoot shoot like a beast. It seems like it has a faster air release than before. It just baffling that even fully plugged it doesn't shoot like it should.
If you want to knoe where the second/third oprv's are check out my post that I made in modifications.
This. I thought the exact same thing. After plugging the pump oprv and doing a rebarreling, I was dismayed to find performance was dismal.
So I went back into the blaster and performed both actions McGee suggested, and performance did indeed rise. These might not be oprv's, but they must have been leaking somehow.
Thanks for the info McGee. Oh, and two common failure points I guess I should tell you guys, the pump shaft and pink vinyl tubing. The pump shAft warped and bowed on me, making it impossible to pump. I sheathed it in some brass tubing, and now it's golden (in two ways). The pink vinyl burst on me fairly soon, so I simply replaced it with some spare fish tank tubing I had lying around. It's much thicker and I've used it to do pump relocations before. It's best to do these actions right off the bat, that way you don't have to reopen the blaster a few times.
Hope this helps!
My pink tubing also failed on me as well, so I just replaced it with some vinyl tubing and now it works fine.
My pump also started to warp and eventually snapped so I'm working on reinforcing the tank, and replacing the old pump with a bike pump. But for now since your pump hasn't snapped yet, I would reccommend reinforcing it with devcon plastic welder or some other kind of epoxy/e-putty combo.
They can leak air at high pressures and I plugged the one in the pump first to test my theory out.
I'm deeply sorry to tell you this, but dude, neither of those are oprv's....
When only the pump is plugged it still leaks from somewhere. I checked everyehere (and i mean everywhere) to see where the oprv's/points of failure areas are. And the only areas I found were the ones in the picture. they're a secondary precaution to make sure everyone is careful and doesn't blow an airtank up in their face.
If you have absolute proof that these points of failure/over pressure release valves (which last time I checked meant a valve/hole that releases air under high pressures) are actually just a leak in my blaster or are areas that don't leak air whatsoever, or if you have your own theory as to why the blaster leaks please tell me so i can test it out. Otherwise don't waste your little type'y time by telling me I'm straight up wrong.
(Also I know you have an air max six you're working on so I would like some feedback/proof. (also sorry if I came off as an ass)
Hey everyone! Above is a picture of the area where the secret oprv's are located on the air max blasters.
The connection from the plastic to the tank just needs to be degreased and superglued in place. (Make sure its super airtight!)
The other oprv is incredibly well hidden I give mad props to buzzbee for coming up with this. But it is basically at the connection point of the blast button to that stupid tubing substitution piece. There should be a little notch that is incredibly hard to notice. basically what you want to do is coat that whole connection in superglue and then wrap it in epoxy putty for extra sealing. We don't want any leaks!
That's basically it besides the obvious one in the pump.
I hope this helped you guys out!
This is a really nice writeup, too bad I don't have an electric eel . This would make a great secondary. If I do get one I will try this, also, this looks like it could be implemented on other pistols too without too much trouble.
Thanks! It actually can, I beleive It can be done to a sawtooth with a little bit of dremeling.
Also it really is a simple mod as long as you have some cutting and sanding wheels for your dremel, a screwdriver, and a steady hand and you're ready to perform the mod. Also, here's a bit of advice of advice. When dealing with an EE shell be insanely careful. Because one wrong move and the plastic can shatter.
This isn't really a write-up but this should explain really everything you would need to know about the blaster.
Here it is unopened.
And here it is opened.
So it basically uses a breech made from an airtech 2000 pump. and it is connected directly to the plunger tube via super glue and epoxy putty as shown here.
(Sorry about that last picture being mainly about the plunger tube)
Anyways the breech itself is (as I said earlier) a 2k pump with 6 or so inches of cpvc. The 2k pump has a slot in the top for the stopper to make sure that the cpvc doesn't fly out. It also has epoxy putty guides to help hold the clip in place. as seen here.
The blaster also uses a cut down EaB spring.
Beige foam single daisy bb glue dome.(made by bobo) 45'
#6 washer pool noodle foam slug.42'-43'ish
Double bb pool noodle foam glue dome. 36'
Single bb pool noodle foam glue dome 42'
Streamline dart slightly worn down 36'
Elite dart also slightly worn down 41'
(Pool noodle foam darts were cut with 9/16ths brass so they have a push to twist fit in cpvc.)
2)yes/no it just depends on dart fit and barrel length.
3) yes, I have successfully hoppered my personal LBB. And on average it single feeds at 10-13 or so pumps at 14-22ish pumps it double feeds and at 23-30ish pumps it triple feeds. But at the 10-13 pump mark the darts (home depot foam with 3/0 fishing weights at 1.5") are getting 90's-110's for me. I'm also using a 14 inch cpvc barrel with a 3 round hoppa' clip.
4)its similar to a panthers air release but it's just a little bit slower so you'll lose a little bit of air in the process of firing the blaster.