how does it push the balls forward

Gravity, looks like.

Also I'm sad that the rivals ammo is way bigger than a standard paintball.
I really wanted to hook up my Virtue Spire to it and have it rip on the field but oh well.

Would this sort of "steampunk" look be acceptable, or is it too realistic?

snip

Seems okay to me, if somewhat on the fringe of being acceptable. I'll let the hardcore milsim-haters weigh in.

Same. The bright blue and bright orange are very distinct and distance the toy from looking like a real gun IMO. Although the brushed metal color does make it look firearm-ish, when you're holding it the primary colors that show are the orange and the blue. Just don't holster it.

1. No
2. Yes
3. ...
4. ...
5. ...
6. No
7 ...

No need to be a smartass about it.

To answer 3, 4, 5, and 7;
3. Better to have and not need than to need and not have
4. It's actually fairly simple. Just make sure you have the correct charger with correct terminals, read the directions on where to plug in and how long to leave and you'll be fine.
5. I'm not familiar with the JST plugs, but AFAIK you do not need to plug the balance plug into anything but the charger. If you have a local hobby shop, ask them because they'll know what you need and will give you the parts there.
7. If it has two metal prongs to plug into a plastic shield (most likely) then it's pretty easy.
Assuming you know how to solder, just solder one prong per wire, then put the negative wire/prong into the negative side of the shield, and then put the positive wire/prong into the positive side of the shield.

I purchase new Nerf brand blasters to play with for 5 minutes and inevitably break it trying to figure out how it works.

Motors from vehicle power window regulators may be what you are after. They are usually worm drive assemblies, and built for high torque. If you want to pay shipping, I'm sure I could scrounge up a couple from the scrap pile here at the shop I work at.

I second this notion. Window motors are very strong, in robotics we used two of them to pull over 100 lbs of spring force back.

Burning smell is normal. Don't fire continuously, and don't keep the motors revved for too long. The rev time is probably low since you over-volted it so you can afford to keep it off. Don't worry about it until something catches fire.

Dude just type your write-up or whatever into a word document, then take the pictures, and reassemble the writeup in the Nerfhaven editor with the pictures. Simple as that.

What I did for my range raider write up.

It's just elite darts with the suction tip added onto the tip. Instead of conventional suction darts with wrap around the dart, this one is glued by a stem inside.
Pretty neato, may pick a set up because full auto sticky dart action against the window is cool.

This sounds suspiciously like you are going to purchase the dual-clip packed units from Costco.

thatsthejoke.jpg


DON'T DO THAT.

Sorry for the necro, but I would like to know if 3 AA nimh batteries would provide enough current to run the motors. I'm planning on putting these in my rapidstrike.

Thanks for telling us how you fucked up.

Just making sure you guys don't make the same mistake.

Trying to remove the PCB on the motor terminals, I fucked up both motors in 2 different ways.
First motor fucked up because I pulled the motor cap off.
Second motor fucked up when I pulled it too hard and the terminal fell off.

Anything else I should take note of before I fuck it up even more? I haven't touched the cycling circuit so I hope at least that won't be fucked up.
In need of some replacement motors.

I'll probably hook up a rechargeable 9-volt battery then. It worked in my stryfe so I don't see why it wouldn't on my rapidstrike. The only difference is the battery being able to recharge.
http://forums.humans...p?topic=13193.0

He's running a 9.6 in his RS and Rayven.

I've seen people run rapidstrikes on 3-4 trust fires which is 12-16 volts respectively. I don't think I'll have a problem.

My mistake, it's a nimh battery.

I'm removing the magazine safety with the thermistor on it and the PCB board on the motors and rewiring. Might put heavier gauge wire in it.

I'm wiring the battery into the stock battery tray, so I don't know what that would be. Don't forget it also has 3 motors.

I ran 9 volts into my stryfe without a problem, a little burning motor smell but no burnout. I wouldn't ask if the rapidstrike had only 2 motors but since there's 3 I don't know if it will work.

I'm planning to wire up a 9.6 volt battery to my rapidstrike, but I'm afraid I'm going to blow out the motors from increased voltage and/or current.

What do you guys run your rapidstrikes on? I don't think 9.6 would be enough to blow them out, but I'm not sure on the current.
It's a Ni-Cd 9.6 2000 MAH battery from Tenergy if that helps.

Amazon and Walmart both list the Stryfe as being 15" long.


BenFett-
That is a very interesting idea, I will certainly look into it.

Probably meaning the packaging.
The stryfe is about 13 inches from stock attachment point to muzzle, you could chop off at least 3 inches from the muzzle.

First off, rainbows, and pretty much all nerf blasters do not have cache, unless it has integrated computers in it... It's catch, and the purpose for having two plates, one on either side is to act as a channel for the catch to move within. The holes drilled for the plunger rod are centered and aligned so that the path of the plunger rod is straight and doesn't have any unwanted warps or friction. The plates themselves act as a channel for the catch to move within so that it is always lined up and for redundancy. It is possible in theory and practice to eliminate the reward plate but that poses possible risks such as the catch plate being pushed back or just torqued in any direction which would potentially hinder use of it and cause damage.

TL;DR It is better to have points of redundant contact and support than to cut on machining time that translates to pure laziness and can cause damage/malfunctions.

I'm used to using cache more since I do computers. Sexually.

The only difference in the case of external propulsion is that you don't have a spring pushing against the front of the front plate. You still need to constrain the catch plate's motion, and the plunger tube and external screw are not enough - that screw would be holding back a force it was never designed to, and the catch plate would be torquing against the plunger rod because the force balance would be off center. The front plate moves that force balance back to the axis of the plunger rod, and takes all the force of the priming while also preventing the catch from rotating and binding against the plunger rod. Rainbow catches would never work without that front catch, and would very bindy and frictiony to prime without the back plate.

Thanks to both of you.

If you're using external propulsion such as a bow why do you need the plates?
As far as I know they're just used for a spring rest and a design utilizing bow power or other forces the plates are not needed.
You just drill a hole in the top of the actual cache and put a screw down the middle, and that will keep it from being bent out of place.

Poo.
The pump is integrated into the tank itself.

So maybe it has been established maybe it hasn't, but I want to know if I can drill a hole in the tank, put a micro line fitting and check valve, and attach it to a bike pump.

Similarly to the big blast pump replacement, but for a Buzz Bee Range Master.
It is a back pressure tank and I don't think it's possible, but I'm not experienced enough to figure out what to do.

Thanks in advance!

Is there any reason that it won't catch with the stock attachment piece on?

Paintball markers, BB guns, real guns, etc. all have barrel rifling, which makes the evenly-weighted ammo stable in flight. Also, those ammo types are far denser, precisely manufactured, and have an aerodynamic tip in some cases.

Paintball markers and Airsoft guns are not rifled.
Rifling is a bunch of bullshit in these type of toy guns.

Springs may not be placed into their specified position. Happened on my raider, make sure your springs are placed into the correct spring rest.

Is it possible to code something to close a thread after 30 days of inactivity? That would be very helpful.

My turret warped and melted before the adhesive had a chance to weaken. I ended up taking a hammer to the plates, which wasn't very smart. In hindsight, it would be MUCH easier to just remove the AR's from the front, since we are already removing the barrels in the first place.

So rather than boil the turret, just pluck out the AR's after sawing off the barrel assembly. Saves time and the black plates don't even have to be touched.


I can back up Duke's range claim however. Tank expanded, 8 pumps, this thing gets 100+ flat no problem with an 8" CPVC single barrel. My pump shaft nearly broke where it connects to the handle, so it is necessary to reinforce it as Duke pointed out.

Ouch, you must have had one that was really stuck on.

Also, I addressed the broken pump shaft.

Kmart is the only place I believe that is currently selling the 10's.

The reason I'm doing a writeup is because new members will have no clue how to begin something like this.

Also, how long did if take to boil off the black plates? If left mine in boiling water for two minutes and they refuse to budge.

I haven't timed mine, but it was in there for awhile. They don't *pop* off, you kind of have to push it out with something.

Here's a quirky little blaster, the Buzz Bee range master. While not exactly hopperable in it's stock shell, if you put it in a new shell it's really easy to hopper with a bit of PVC ang PETG.
I'm hitting a little over 70' with terribly made slugs, so I could imagine it would hit 100' with good ones.

Write up here

While I do say you need to use a dremel I didn't use a dremel at all in this mod, I used heavy wire cutters and a hacksaw.

For the PETG, was it the thick wall or medium wall?

It wasn't real PETG, it was the polyester tubing from McMaster.

What's the point of making a check valve? Nylon check valves are pretty cheap on McMaster, is there a reason why I shouldn't use one? srs question haha.

Check valves are at least 3-5 bucks each, you can build a couple of them for the same price.
it's also for those who don't have check valves at their home improvement store and McMaster is not an option.

First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong section/completely wrong to post, but I just found a video describing how to make a check valve. This is not my work and again I apologize but I found it to be quite useful to the modding community.

Video here:

Read here for directions as per CoC.

2x 3/4" male PVC Slip adapter
3/4" PVC
3/4" acrylic ball
Rubber o-ring that fits inside the slip adapter
(I'd assume you can use different size pipes but the pressure ratings may not be the same with the varying size)


Push o-ring into slip adapter, where it rests on the ridge inside.
Then push marble into the o-ring, it should seat neatly on top of the o-ring, and should not go through. It should be just enough to give clearance for the PVC to slip into the adapter.
Because there is no way to retain the ball from falling out, we will make a ball stop similar to dart stops to stop vacuum loading, or in this case roll outs.

Make a mark 5/8" from the bottom (the end that goes into the adapter) and drill a hole, push a pin through. Standard stuff.

You'll need to test fit this, make sure the ball stop fits into the adapter. If it does not, modify it until it does.
when everything fits, PVC cement it together. Add second adapter on the open side, cement it.

You now have a homemade check valve for super cheap.

no pictures because I has problem with pictures currently.

I don't believe this is Necro posting, but if it is, I'm sorry. Anyways, I plugged the OPRV on mine and it's working just fine. I'm putting eight pumps into it every time I fire and there's no sign of breakage yet, and I would say I've fired it 50-60 times already.

Interesting. The valve on the pump, correct? I didn't inspect the blaster for a second one.

When you remove any locks on an electronic blaster you'll have to rewire too. There's no way to remove the locks without rewiring. You probably put the lock in wrong.

Just wondering, how come you sawed off the front portion of the pump?

I tried to replace the pump

Langley, please feel free to close this because I will be tempted to post more speculation in this thread if it stays open.
I have gotten a pre-lim design going on but I don't know how it will work out.



Just to inspire greatness on those who know what they're doing.

It is possible to rear load the blaster. There isn't a problem with the rotation with a rebarrel, in my experience at least. I can't exactly check the ranges anymore because I plugged the pump and snapped it in half before I could get 6 shots off. It fired off fairly far, I'm guessing about 60 with slugs flat.

Without the air-restricter plugged, how much of an improvement is this seemingly simple mod? Are we getting comparable ranges to the elite line? Better? From what I've searched it seems to be a fairly powerful air blaster.

The air max gets elite ranges with stock darts, but is abyssmal when using elite darts. I just modified it to use slugs. Also, the tank just blew off. Buzz bee sucks with their quality control.
I'm out of posts, so hopefully you see this azrael.


There's a little piece that connects the internal pump to the external slide. If you plug the pump, you run the risk of breaking the connecting piece and you will not be able to pump it externally.

*introduction*

So I went to target and they had loads of new nerf/buzzbee blasters... I was contemplating the sledgefire but the damn fucker is $30.00. Then I saw the Max 6, the new EXTREMEEEEE line from buzzbee. I thought it would have great potential.

/introduction

This is kinda what it looks like, I already tried to do a pump replacement but here's the general gist of what it is



You can make it rearloading, it has enough space.

It's stupid simple to mod. Unscrew everything, and take the turret out.
The restrictor plates are glued on, so plop it in some boiling water and pop the caps off.


rebarrel with PETG.

DO NOT PLUG THE PUMP.
You will break the little plastic piece attaching the pump to the external part.

Anyways put back together and you're done.

Do you have pictures of said test rig?

Maybe I'll have a plusbow or something and offer that as a prize...

Anyways I'm currently studying the cache and priming mech of vortex blasters (excluding the diatron, because it's different)