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#347975 Longshot AR Question

Posted by F man 47 on 21 July 2015 - 06:13 PM in Modifications

It is slightly beneficial adds about 10 ft that's a estimate, but as you know you won't be able to dry fire anymore


Will I have to reinforce the boltsled if i remove the AR's?



#347965 Longshot AR Question

Posted by F man 47 on 21 July 2015 - 06:55 AM in Modifications

I had bought a NIB yellow longshot at Toys R Us in HK for $250 today, and am wondering if anyone has upgraded the spring without removing the stock air restrictor. I saw a EAT mod by Coop that upgraded the spring to a OMW aftermarket spring but left the air restrictors in the blaster as he said that removing the air restrictors are not as beneficial anymore. Would the same apply for a stock yellow longshot?



#346449 Question on batteries for my stryfe

Posted by F man 47 on 28 April 2015 - 08:12 AM in Modifications

you could using the 1.2 v rechargeable go with a motor swap race motors like the plasma dash or hyper dash are meant to run at those voltages rather than the over volt the imr give...

if i may ask why so afraid of imr my charger does the 1.2v rechargeable too and i use the 14500 size in a few of my flashlights too... and i have my rapidstrike setup to run off 18650...


I'd like to use 1.2v rechargeable batteries because my family bought a bunch for household use, so using those to power the stryfe will make the most out of the batteries.



#346440 Question on batteries for my stryfe

Posted by F man 47 on 26 April 2015 - 09:15 PM in Modifications

Dear all,

I have rewired my Stryfe and removed all the locks. I am currently running 4 rechargeable batteries at 1.2v each. My question is if I can wire in another battery pack which will hold 2 more 1.2v rechargeable batteries will the 6 batteries in total will affect the stryfe. My stryfe also uses stock motors. I do not want to purchase IMR's or trustfires as I have many rechargeable batteries at home since my family uses them.

Thanks



#343418 Question for OPRV's on homemade blasters

Posted by F man 47 on 10 December 2014 - 02:33 AM in Homemades

To me it sounds like (but I may be wrong) it sounds like you need a check valve not a oprv.


Sorry, thats what i meant when I said the ball pump's valve. All ball pumps do have check valves in them? If not how can I add one to the pump so the air does not leak out of the pump?



#343398 Question for OPRV's on homemade blasters

Posted by F man 47 on 09 December 2014 - 07:52 AM in Homemades

Hello friends,

I have been wondering about the state of OPRV's on homemade air plasters, particularly the hose handle and ball valve kind, i want to know if you have a simple ball valve air blaster, and attach a ball pump to the blaster via PVC couplings, does there need to be a external OPRV too in the blaster or is the ball valve OPRV enough to hold the pressure. I created my own hose handle air blaster a few months ago but since i finished the project air has been leaking through the pump it self, in the shaft area with a small crack. I have tested the pump in water and found the leak, but all attempts to patch the leak fail, with super glue, epoxy. And also the hose handle baster cannot hold air pressure for more than 15 seconds before all the pressure is lost. There are no other leaks in the blaster and this has also been happening to my other blaster with ball pumps. Could it be that i am pumping too hard (3 pumps) and the air is leaking through the OPRV, or should that not happen?

Thanks.




#343373 White 'Wedding' Foam From China

Posted by F man 47 on 08 December 2014 - 10:41 AM in Darts and Barrels

Lately I've been noticing a bunch of chinese ebay sellers with white FBR that they sell as 'Wedding foam'.
Has anyone had any experience with this stuff? Is it any good?


I have seen some of this foam here in my local hardwares shops in Hong Kong, they are used like FBR. The foam is quite dense and does come in 12mm sizes, but is very squishy and when pressed may not return beck to the same size. I use this for my darts because it is the only option i have but it is generally not very good.



#343371 Double SnapBow

Posted by F man 47 on 08 December 2014 - 04:41 AM in Homemades

Your top plunger rod likely isn't centered, that would account for the bad seal and crazy friction.


I think that could be the problem, but am not sure of a solution for it. I have tried using a 1.5 inch fender washer with a 3/8 ID for my seal,which fixes my problem of the slow plunger rod; but it only gets a 40% seal and does not fire a dart. I have no access to large hardware store here in Hong Kong and my hardware stores do not carry fender washers, is there any other way of centring the plunger rod?



#343342 Double SnapBow

Posted by F man 47 on 07 December 2014 - 02:49 AM in Homemades

Very nice blaster you have there He who mods, i have tried to recreate your design myself from your writeup, but have hit a small problem with the plunger rod. For some reason with the upper plunger rod attached the blaster will fire very slowly, not enough to fire a dart. But without the top part of the plunger attached the rod springs out very hard. The top plunger seal is only about a 70% seal. I have tired changing the seal and buffing up the springs but the plunger rod still moves very slowly for some reason with the whole blaster combined.



#327344 Firestrike Swappable Inline Clip Mod

Posted by F man 47 on 26 February 2013 - 06:16 AM in Modifications

Question, is there a screw on the front of the plunger? If there is not, how did you take off the catch?

Anyway, Nice job!



#327343 Firestrike Swappable Inline Clip Mod

Posted by F man 47 on 26 February 2013 - 06:14 AM in Modifications

That's a really nice write up and an especially awesome first post. Mad skills.


Nevermind