While I think your point about katana mags is totally valid, honestly I would probably only use a blaster like this with them. The reduction in deadspace is a huge advantage in my opinion, and buying katana mags isn't that much of an issue to be honest. 

 

Also, while you may have had a good time assembling the caliburn, you can't deny that the rod system is a little janky and kinda hard for amateurs to assemble, while a receiver with slots pre-milled would essentially be idiot-proof.  

I think that from what I have heard and seen regarding the Caliburn design, this offers a major improvement, provided you have access to katana mags. 

 

The main three complaints I have heard about the Caliburn:

1. The build feels insecure and kind of "twisty"

2. Because of the use of bolts for the frame, it can be very knit-picky to assemble correctly, as you have to tension each of the bolts and nuts correctly

3. There are a few parts (although I think many have been re-iterated and fixed) that are relatively weak, or not designed the best, like the piece above the mag-well

 

However, it seems to me that this design addresses each of those complaints wonderfully, and personally from what I have seen thus far, I would rather build this than a Caliburn. Also, if the creator is planning on distributing this design a la Slug, than as long as he has a mill those slots will be hardly a nuisance. Even for people who don't have a mill, I think that a dremel, a drill (press hopefully), and some patience are just fine for making slots. Honestly I would rather machine slots than have to tension a bunch of finicky bolts myself. I really, really like the bolt design, and just the whole design in general; great work and will definitely make one if I can get access to a 3d printer or can buy the 3d-printed parts, as well as if I can buy some katana mags.  

 

However I do have a few suggestions:

1. Shorten the draw: 7 inches of draw on a 1.375" id plunger tube is honestly kind-of overkill. Either put a 18"+ chicago barrel on this to actually take advantage of all this volume, or shorten the draw to 4.5-5.5". I have run into a ton of longshots with [[k26]] or k45 equivalent springs that get better performance than some +bows, so I really don't think the extra volume is worth the extra length and priming effort. 

2. Change the pump design: just like Blitz said, 3d printed grips are prone to breakage, and personally I would much prefer a 1.5" pvc tee over pretty much any design people have tried printing (1.5" pvc tee's are wicked ergonomic)

3. As far as I can tell, only the grip pieces are actually 3d-printed, but personally I would try to 3d print the whole receiver assemply except for the the sear, which should definitely be a machined part.

 

And just a p.s., if you somehow have access to a lathe, I think lathed bolts are really beneficial for blasters like these, and would be a great improvement!

Thanks for the good "inside" view as well as for this ammo idea

 

Do you think any flywheel-blaster could be turned into this kind of ball throwing machine by adjusting the flywheels?

Yes, but a whole new flywheel cage, as well as maybe even the flywheels themselves would have to be machined, and for that kind of money, you might as well just buy a zeus. 

These do look pretty "sub-optimal" lol love the word censorship ^ ^. I have been loving my ACC darts, how does the foam on these compare to those? The foam on ACC darts was fairly rigid and not very forgiving to squishing. Are these the same way? 

Im not a super active nerfer due to me being in boarding school, but I might be able to come to a war if it is at the right time, but I am super busy lol. Also, chill xXwhateverthefuckXx.

They are not worth your money at all. Shity products at a ridiculous price. I would highly recommend checking out Zuark0 and Artifact Nerf Mods (I think you can find them on Facebook.) They do some high quality stuff, and I know Zaurk0 has a mag well converter for the centurion. 

All of the clvc I use is around exactly 1/2 wide, and it is just the stuff I got from Home Depot. Trust me, finding side CPVC is really easy to do, and is way better than drilling out the barrel. That being said, this is a good solution to a very real problem.

Probably, but this begs the question, why don't you just by it locally? 300 yuan is roughly 65 Australian Dollars, or 45 USD for us 'mericans, plus shipping ( which will be ridiculous) , so you're actually spending way more money then it is worth. Just saying

Gameranger mac Age of empires 3 Tad and Nilla name: Anonymous

I received 400 china darts about a week ago, but I waited to post this so I could get to know them well.

 

1. These darts are cheap, very cheap. But, as your parents always tell you, you get what you pay for. That being said, these darts are far better than most other china darts I've seen. About 2-3 tips from every ten dart pack were poorly attached and required re-glueing by me. The tips are attached pretty well. The glue is strong, and unlike most other china darts, the foam is is strong too.

 

2. These darts are safe. The tip is extremely pointy and quite heavy (imagine a 3/0 fishing weight or steel slingshot), but also extremely squishy and rubbery. 

 

3. The darts, at least the good ones, perform quite well. I use slug darts made from a thinner batch of beige or rod XL foam with 3/0 tin weights and felt pads. My slugs perform better than most other slugs, and these china darts somehow perform even better. They have a higher muzzle velocity, travel further, and drop off much later. Their trajectory is a sideways j shape rather than a normal arch.

A skirt seal is a shaft seal used in motors and other types of engines. It sits around the shaft and prevents dirt and other contaminates from getting into the motor. 

This belongs in the product/deal awareness thread http://nerfhaven.com...t-availability/

 

Chill out blues, you're not a moderator.

 It's too bad these are black, and not something easier to find.

 

I'm just going to paint the back of my darts with pink spray-paint, just like Ice9 and other nerfers did back in the golden age. Hopefully that will make them easier to find!

I would suggest you don't follow Lord Draconical's youtube, especially when it comes to using trustfires or ultrafires.
 

 

Thank you for telling this guy this. Bad things happen when you give a relatively unintelligent nerd a camera.

I propose "Bullseyes" as the name for these cut down darts, since it sounds equal parts jargon and the original ACCurate name, while also being a play on words with the accuracy thing. It will make it easy to distinguish the full length ones from these since these are more than just cut-down streamlines, they are pretty much sili tips/silicone domes. Also, this is more activity in one topic than the darts and barrels forum has had as a whole in years.

 Nah its nipple darts, no other name can even compete. 

Was about to order some best materials foam and felt from mcmaster, then I saw this. 400 pre-made darts on the way for less money than slugs. Thanks cheerios.

I started making homemades back around when I was 13. I was able to make a pistol SNAP and an AAbow solely from parts that I found at Lowe's. Did they look a fancy ESLT or PCSR? They didn't, but I still successfully built a homemade. Since then, there have countless writeups made specifically for newcomers that instruct you how to build a homemade. 

Exact same for me, except I built a SNAP carbine.

 

Trust me, to any noobs reading this, building a homemade is nowhere near as daunting as it may seen, as long as you follow a write-up.

I would try to look for architectural Aluminum tubing, as well as brass tubes. 

As well as this, I would recommend a regular knife as well. A thicker blade allows for more power, control and less chance of breakage from slight prying.

Ya. I just use xacto because they're cheap. Also regular knives are kinda scary.  

An xacto knife is my best friend. I would get a set with different blades, so that you can change them to fit your task. The knives allow for very precise shell work that also looks clean. A soldering iron with a knife blade is also a good thing to have.

I'm not a rough cut expert, but I think that that white piece is just a lock. I would just put it back together and see if works correctly or not.

Are you sure that the running bar is interacting with the turret fully?

 

Thanks for all these pictures, rarely a noob has as good post quality as this.

 

3. The rainbowpup had the spring up front, under the barrel, and used a backwards-facing plunger like an ESLT. This does none of those things.

 

 

Sorry, I couldn't come up with a better way to describe it. I was just talking about having a seal on the plunger rod, and the air out put in the middle of the blaster. 

To be honest, while this blaster is cool and more powerful than an ESLT, it is still way more complicated and larger than it needs to be. This rainbowpup style of bull pup is a really inefficient design. There is so much more room for error, as well as a final product being quite a bit longer and more bulky than necessary. 

 

In my opinion, the best and only practical style of bullpup is the reverse-inverse aka. multiple orgasm style of priming. It takes up less space, is significantly easier to make, and is more powerful than a PCSR or ESLT. I just don't get why more people don't make reverse-inverse style bullpups. There are http://nerfhaven.com...up/#entry339179detailed write-ups on these styles of blasters, but they have gone quite unnoticed.

To paraphrase Daniel beaver: I have identified the problem:

Vulcan

I would say that for the most part, a standard EAT priming rod will be fine. I have an original alpha trooper with an OMW 5 kg spring and there is very little flex. However, the Hobby mod's spring is over 7 kg, more powerful than the OMW spring. You will get some flex, but I think that if you securely fasten the bar to the priming handle, as wells as to the bolt sled, you'll be able to fully prime the blaster with room to spare.

 

From your post, I can garner that you really want a serious and powerful blaster meant to last, and If you do, I would just get the blasterparts priming rod, and file it down if it is too large. Of course, its all up to you, but If I were you, I would go for the new priming rod if you have the dough, but if you don't, you be able to easily get by with just a few simple mods.

Glue dome stefans

 

Wut???

Nerfhaven is strict for one reason, as far as I'm concerned, trolls. Nerfhaven wants to be a formal place where geeks can geek out. Not a place where nerds are made fun of by cowards behind their computer screens. This is a place where we take silly things seriously, not get made fun of by. 

Super Glue.

This is so ghetto but so awesome.

Are solder and electrical tape available in the Land of Oz?

You could make JSPB magnums.

Stop advertising these. They are not good or safe.

What the mods on this forum are trying to do is attempt to make a forum that has intelligent discussion, and limited discussion at that. What this forum wants is refined ideas and intelligent ones at that. What I say is respect that. Lurk. Look at old threads and see where this hoppy has been, and see what you have to add. What the mods don't want are trolls and spammers who post way to much and have nothing intelligent to say. Posting a lot is fine, just make it worth it.

The longshot is arguably one of the best nerf blasters, so any re-release makes me happy. I'm gonna mod it anyway, so couldn't care less its stocks performance.

Rubber, yeah, but solder?

Albeit lead does have more mass, but in your first post, you said you put the solder 7.5 millimeters away from the tip. This centralization of the weight leads me to believe that even your variation won't work as well as slugs or china ammo. I am not one to judge however, so to each his own, I guess.

Not even JSPB Magnums?

Bro, Jspb magnums are a total joke. No offense to the omnipotent 3DBBQ or anything, but I made a couple of those darts and they traveled half the distance of a slug out of my rainbow, and were about as accurate as a stock streamline. Rubber's density is nowhere near the density of steel or even hot glue for that matter. They are super safe, yes, but honestly, id rather spend a hundred bucks on koosh darts and not waste my time building crappy darts.

I'm going to have to disagree with birch. Theirs no way I would allow someone to use ball bearings as weights in their darts at a war I hosted. Even if the bearings weighed the same, theirs the very real possibility that the bearing will punch through a dart head and hurt the target. In my early dart making days I tried dropping a few pellets in a dart head and encased them in hot glue and capped it with a bit of FBR. The first test shot against a cabinet door, and the pellets punched through the hot glue and fbr tip. The pellets still had enough momentum to dent the oak cabinet. The fbr quickly and simply became a sabbot to accelerate the pellets. Washers are used due to their flat surface area. So long as they're well made, and they don't have any metal edges exposed, theirs very little chance of drawing blood. since they spread their momentum across the entire face of the washer. I would also worry about small ball bearings weighing too much. The last thing you want flying around a field is a dart heavy enough to take out a tooth.

I have seen people use a craft foam punched disc to cap their steffans. That worked well and had a longer usage life than a FBR cap since it's a denser foam. If you really want an alternative to felt, I would suggest craft foam.

What you have to understand, is that there is glue on top of the weight, thus there is no way the weight can punch through the felt. In your experience, did you put hot glue on top go the weights? If you didn't your results make sense, if you did, I have no Idea what is going on.

To make this style dart properly, you'd need to essentially be making a stefan instead of a slug and then putting foam on the front. Slugs were made to replace stefans to prevent the exact situation shmmee describes - foam/glue saboting of a bb.

If you want darts that are less painful than slugs, look into the various cast-silicone head darts, various wrapped-darts, or buy them online from one of the ebay dealers.

The way I make my darts the hot glue is well blinded to the foam. If you use a foam with small cells, such as mha foam, the glue does't stick as well, but because I use either Best Materials Hot rod, or Log home store white, the glue adheres to the foam so well that I have never experienced any splitting up of the dart.

Also, I have run into quite a few different types of silicone dome darts, and in my opinion there is no reason to use them over well-made slug darts. Silly domes hurt as much as a bb weighted hot glue dome, which is really annoying compared to slugs. I don't go out to nerf to get hurt or hurt other people. If I did, I would go play paintball. Non-washer slugs are, in my opinion, the best dart design available, in terms of cost efficiency, performance, and most of all safety. Using foam instead of the felt helps to further improve the dart in all three categories.

Yes, that is how I make mine. What I do is take 3/8 foam backer rod and cut in into 1/4 inch lengths and then use it instead of the felt. I would also recommend not using washers. With the foam tip, you will definitely get exposed metal. Everyone uses washers for slugs while small ball bearings are far easier to use, and much safer. To make slugs with these, burn the hole as you would, put some hotglue in the bottom of the hole, place the ball on the still hot hotglue, then put some hotglue of top and quickly place the foam pad on top whilst the glue is still hot. These are the safest and most efficient slugs you will ever build, and maybe of all dart types.

Yea, just put an 8 AA battery tray in the normal battery slot. It ups voltage a bit, but it gives so much more current than trustfires.

Try them out. Worst case scenario is that they don't work.