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Joe Espinoza's Content
There have been 56 items by Joe Espinoza (Search limited from 13-June 93)
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For 500 you'll definitely be a head turner. The wye looks like it's mechanically fastened. Not ever really seeing this I haven't had an idea of how it would be converted.
I'm sure you foam heads can figure it out. Let me know what you guys think
With that set aside, I like the convenience of making one of these. Also, I very much enjoy the reliability of firing at least one dart 100% of the time (according to your data). Shooting two darts is better than none!
I will have to give this a try.
For single shot blasters, this is basically true. My half-length Rainbow shoots about 230 ft/s (3.5" of draw) vs 250 ft/s from my full-sized rainbow (7" draw). Half length springs double their spring constant, so the spring pushes with just as much force as the full sized configuration. The blaster has the same amount of Power, but does less Work because of the shortened draw. For single shots, the dart leaves the barrel before the plunger has traveled all the way through the tube, so a lot of potential is wasted. The extra volume delivered by a full-sized plunger tube is useful when using hoppers; with tons of excess air volume, it doesn't matter if your dart isn't seated well, it will just HULK SMASH the dart into the barrel. But if you're using a speedloader, that extra 3" of plunger draw isn't doing a whole lot for ya.
So... to answer the OP's question:
Cut a [k26] in half and make a half-length SNAP with 3.5" of draw and a 12" barrel. It will shoot about 90% as far as a full-sized SNAP when using a speedloader. It will shoot maybe 70% as far with a hopper and a shortened barrel. If you want to dial down the power a bit, use a [k25] spring or use 3" of draw instead.
Now I feel more confident! Il let you guys know how it goes. I just want to make a compact without sacrificing to much from a regular sized homemade
Note that I did actually mention that, and that the second half of my response discussed that. I did not realize that it was directly proportional, though.
EDIT: It has been brought to my attention that OP was looking for power, not force. Power is force over a period of time (or the integral of force with respect to time), so a shortened [k26] will not exert the same amount of power, though it does have the same maximum load when fully compressed. It would not be terribly difficult to find the necessary spring to get the equivalent power of a [k26] with a shorter stroke if you know all of the forces acting in opposition to the spring (friction, inertia, etc.), or the velocity curve of the plunger as it travels through the plunger tube. You would, of course, also need to factor in the reduced air volume produced by a shorter draw, assuming that the plunger tube ID remains the same. So no, to answer one of your actual questions, it's not particularly easy to work that out.
Thanks man, I guess I may have to experiment a little before using it in a war. I may just shorten the [k26] but increase the volume by let's say a 1/4 inch more than what I was using before.
I know that using a stronger spring than a [k26] can sometimes really hurt people. And surprisingly I don't want to do that.
I would like a 4 or 5 inch draw; anyone have any suggestions on how I can select the right spring?
Please feel free to call me an idiot if I have looked this over
I also know that there must be some equation I can use to calculate this, but I am not sure if I could use it only having a high school education!
Thanks in advance
Bought the wrong batteries mate.
I personally use unprotected cells.
I'm sure one of the electrical engineers lurking around here will tell you the exact difference, but all I know is unprotected = performance and protected = bad mojo.
Buy some unprotected cells and all your troubles will be gone.
I bought those off eBay actually and I did order the unprotected. But instead they sent the wrong ones. Never thought it would have lead to an issue like this. Well I guess I have to make another order ): thanks for the help though
I HAVE taken out all of the resistors and any other pain in the ass safety mechanisms.
I know that these are protected because it says it on the battery. But does that mean they don't run if the volts or amps get too high?
I would really appreciate help or suggestions to resolve this issue.
I have looked all around the internet and could not find a place that had a well written description on making an ammo counter so I decided that I should just make a post and see if anyone knows how.
This is by far, the best counter out there. And best part, you don't have to worry about anything it's pre-made and ready to go