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#340404 Afterburner problem

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 15 July 2014 - 08:43 PM in Modifications

My thoughts on this are simply speculation at this time as I have not constructed my own afterburner rayven setup, but I've had this opinion on this setup since seeing it first implemented about a year ago. The inherent fault in this design is the length of barrel between the front and rear flywheel sets. In an afterburner setup, the rear flywheels should be serving a purpose soley to accelerate the dart to the extent that it is entering the front flywheels at a faster speed than initially at rest. Since the barrel section (faux barrel in your case) is longer than 1 dart length +/- ~1/2 inch, you can run into the scenario where darts are not propelled forward in a perfectly straight fashion and will then lodge in the faux barrel section (due to not hitting the front flywheels in a manner consistent with possible feeding into the flywheel cage). Ideally for an afterburner setup, should the middle barrel section not be 1 dart length +/- ~1/2 inch, where the dart will enter the front flywheel set almost instantly after leaving the rear set, without leaving room for it to veer off-course in the center barrel section into a postion where the front flywheels cannot catch, feed and fire the dart? Granted, that ideal setup is not possible within the confines of a non-heavily modified rayven shell, but the theory in itself should be sound. Just my 2 cents on the issue.



#336154 PTC Fuses on Blade 180 motors

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 29 December 2013 - 08:53 PM in Modifications

So I've been working on some Rapidstrikes with Blade 180 motor swaps, and the motors that I ordered came with PTC fuses on them. To my understanding, these essentially operate like self-resettable circuit breakers. My question to those that have used these motors for swaps before, is it really necessary to bypass these fuses or is it beneficial to just keep them for reliability purposes? Battery supply is a 3S 25C LiPo.



#335980 Question about VInyl Dye

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 18 December 2013 - 02:14 PM in Modifications

What will happen if I use it on a translucent plastic piece? Does it cause it to become brittle? Is the color solid or semi transparent? Does the dye soak into clear plastic at all?


From personal experience, I can tell you that it will coat the plastic in the same manner as opaque plastic, and it soaks in to the same extent. For example, the translucent orange jam door on a rapidstrike, when coated with Duplicolor flat black vinyl dye, will turn the same opaque black color as the other Rapidstrike components when coated. It doesn't discriminate based on color (or lack thereof).



#335456 Questions about replacement motors.

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 15 November 2013 - 06:56 PM in Modifications

There are 'thermistors-' they cut out with heat. Remove them.


The pcbs that are physically attached to the motors in a Stryfe are just inductant filters (to channel out RF interference to pass FCC interference regs). You can just rip those off, but those shouldn't physically have an impact on the performance of your DC circuit. The thermister however, is the yellow component on the pcb at the back of the stryfe connected to the battery terminal. That needs to go for modification purposes.



#334843 Painting

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 16 October 2013 - 01:50 PM in Modifications

The biggest thing to keep a paintjob looking good, is to make a paintjob good from the start.

The main ways to do so are:
-Use a good priming method (some proven combination of vinyl dye, sanding, paint primer, and/or cleaning)
-Choosing good quality paints that will adhere well to plastic (that's another conversation in itself)
-Use good painting techniques when applying coats (there's a ton of guides/tutorials out there for proper application)
-Apply a good clear coat afterwards

As for the wear you're experiencing with moving parts, I believe that most people recommend applying some white lithium grease to areas with moving parts, then wiping away the excess as it can eat the paint away (someone correct me if I'm wrong here), resulting in smooth operation that won't tear into the paintjob nearly as quick.



#332914 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 12 August 2013 - 06:51 AM in Modifications

The "ShortStrike" - a minimized, elite-ified LongStrike:

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[w/ quick-lock stock]
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#332858 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 10 August 2013 - 02:12 PM in Modifications

Mass Effect N7-themed Rayven commission.


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#332619 Question on modding the rapidstrike cs-18

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 02 August 2013 - 11:51 AM in Modifications

That whole PCB on the motor is likely just a static suppression unit not unlike the ones on the Vulcan, Swarmfire and Stryfe. They really only serve to suppress EM static created by the current running through the motors, so there's not really any need or cause to keep them; they're just a "we better cover all our bases" part added by Hasbro, like a majority of the useless locks they put in there. There's a really good explanation of Nerf wiring parts and practices here if you want to read into it a little more, but the short answer is take it off and toss it if you're trying to get to those motors.



#330611 Barrel break ranges

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 06 June 2013 - 10:02 AM in Modifications

The EBB was confirmed to just be a repaint, it doesn't claim the Elite line ranges on the box. It will fire just the same as the regular BB, but with whatever flight ballistics Elite darts will have in comparison to whistlers.



#330537 How many people are selling thier designs?

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 03 June 2013 - 04:25 PM in Homemades

SlyDev is probably one of the largest 3D printed Nerf part sellers, although I don't believe he keeps a presence on NH. His store over at SlyDev.com.au has a wide variety of practical parts on the cheap.



#330349 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 29 May 2013 - 04:49 PM in Modifications

Assault-style Stampede commission:

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The Long(er)Strike / Elite Longstrike / RetalStrike / Whatever you like to call it. Modded Retaliator internals spliced into a longstrike.

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#330220 Bowling Green War! (OH)

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 24 May 2013 - 01:51 PM in Nerf Wars

I may make it up there depending on my work schedule.



#329928 Rapid Fire AS-20 help

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 17 May 2013 - 03:17 PM in General Nerf

That free sample check-valve came in today (they actually sent two), I got it installed and now everything works fine. Thanks again guys.



#329631 Rapid Fire AS-20 help

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 10 May 2013 - 11:22 PM in General Nerf

Thanks guys, I look forward to getting this thing working. <insert Star Wars "fully operational" quote and evil emperor cackling>



#329622 Rapid Fire AS-20 help

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 10 May 2013 - 10:16 PM in General Nerf

So I've recently come into possession of a used Rapid Fire AS-20, however its condition is somewhat neglected by the previous owner as I picked it up at a garage sale for 50 cents.

Anyways, I got it, tried it out, and it seems like it won't store air. It pumps, the bladder (or what I assume is the bladder) fills, but the pump handle shoots back out on its own and it seems to lose some of its air pressure when that happens. Also, it cant mass enough air to fire and cycle at all.

I've opened it up and checked it out, traced all of the lines, and all of the tubing and valves are functioning, however the I believe that the problem is the actual pump. It was a b*tch to open (and the little black box on top was still glued on) so I'm assuming that it hasn't been opened before and everything is still correctly assembled inside of it. Can anyone confirm this or point me in the right direction to look for the problem? Thanks.



#329352 Elite Aplha Trooper CS-12, in US stores.

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 04 May 2013 - 03:21 PM in General Nerf

Prices were knocked up to $20 in all of SW Ohio as of about 7pm Friday night.



#329253 Pak Designs

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 02 May 2013 - 09:07 AM in General Nerf

All of my PakD orders have materialized, granted that I bought my stuff through the RM store (N. American supplier for PakD).

Did you order any things that haven't even made it to PakD yet (mouseworm or Retaliator kit)? I know for a fact that people have received multiple orders of foam, tips and stampede gears when ordered straight from PakD, if you ordered something that still hasn't been cleared by their customs (ie their entire mouseworm shipment), then chances are they wont ship your order until it all comes in to them. Don't give up on it yet, I haven't heard any horror stories of their customer service in the past.



#328886 Instant Rev-up for flywheel blaster

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 19 April 2013 - 08:39 PM in Homemades

What I came up with was an idea something like a stryfe with an extended barrel and a shotgun-style handle on it. When you pull the handle back, it would store energy in a spring that would instantly spin the flywheels when you pulled the rev-up secondary trigger. Hopefully, this would cut down on acceleration time, allowing for actual sneak attacks with rapid-fire semi-auto blasting. Of course, you could still pull the secondary trigger before cocking the handle for regular rev-up time.


I don't quite think you understand how flywheels work... They run on purely electrical systems, no spring would have any effect on their use. They have a "spin-up time" due to the stall current they draw (the current it takes to get them up to speed), which can only be "sped up" by using a voltage source that can supply a lot more current. Alkalines and Trustfires don't quite have the discharge capacity that nicer battery packs have, and thus when using them, you will still experience that spin-up time.

And that's not saying go out and buy a few battery packs and throw more voltage at it to attain the current necessary, do some research and find something in your price range that doesn't exceed the voltage range of whatever motors you use and can supply current like a boss.



#328599 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 06 April 2013 - 02:55 PM in Modifications

Weathered-down Steampunk themed Stryfe:

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Another Masterkey:

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Triad corner-clearing attachment (fires all three darts simultaneously, with a nice power thanks to a new spring):

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And my shiny new RM-kitted Longshot project:

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#328566 What is the max voltage on the Elite Rayven?

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 05 April 2013 - 10:10 AM in Modifications

If you remove the thermistor (voltage regulator) from any current gen Nerf flywheel blaster, you can run 4 trustfires through it. Granted, you run the risk of burning out a motor eventually, and I've had the stock solder melt and break connections once before when running 4 trustfires in a Rayven, but a little more solder corrects that quickly.



#328315 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 24 March 2013 - 08:58 PM in Modifications

Fresh outta JSI: The "Rambo" M60 Vulcan. Completely overhauled, custom stock, barrel assembly, trigger & grips, 50 round extended ammo box (and belt), and the works. OD Green/Black paint scheme with some of the original orange accents (Purdue is cracking down on the more realistic paint schemes). All of the specs and more pictures are on my site: http://jsimods.blogspot.com

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#327915 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 11 March 2013 - 11:22 PM in Modifications

First shot at the whole "Steampunk" themed thing, not too bad of a commission (for a maverick), the pictures don't do it justice. Basics & Russian Roulette mod.

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#327646 Barrel Break Elite!

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 05 March 2013 - 09:23 AM in General Nerf

MLD or Urban Taggers had posted this a few weeks back, it's only a repaint, which explains the old N-strike logos and why the box supposedly doesn't even have the "up to 75ft." claim on it.



#327462 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 01 March 2013 - 12:38 AM in Modifications

Won't post my entire backlog of stuff I've made, might as well just start with this year and go forward.

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A Stryfe/Rough Cut masterkey commission that just went out

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My own Stryfe/Rough Cut masterkey

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Bandit stripe style, pumpgrip LS commission I finished not long ago.

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MLP Sparkle Twilight themed raider commission

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Rebarreled TTE (mega dart version) w/ 1/2" PETG



#325615 Stryfe Modification - Something slightly different...

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 22 January 2013 - 03:30 PM in Modifications

If you don't mind me asking, what are the specs on the single cell LiPo you ordered? I'd assume it would have to be ~4100mah to keep up with Plasma Dash motors.



#325111 Fix for Elite dart jams in Longshots

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 06 January 2013 - 10:40 PM in Modifications

Nice Idea! Does the range decrease after doing this fix?

The reason I ask is because it seems that this mod would decrease the launch tube's grip on the dart. And that would not allow as much pressure to build up behind the dart before firing, which might adversely affect the range.


As long as you don't completely bore out the inside of the bolt you're safe, you only want to hedge out enough so that the dart can move a few mm further into the bolt before getting nice and snug (the "resistance" I refer to). The bit should be taking out nothing more than a very thin shaving of plastic. When I tested this, the span range of ranges I was getting was about spot on with the ranges I was getting prior to the mod.



#325012 Fix for Elite dart jams in Longshots

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 02 January 2013 - 10:37 PM in Modifications

Quick question; does anyone see a range increase when using elite darts in a ls instead of streamlines, i lost all my streamlines and they do not sell them anymore. :angry:


Elite darts are generally shooting further and straighter (to a degree) than streamlines in just about every gun (bar some non-clip system guns).



#324895 Fix for Elite dart jams in Longshots

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 29 December 2012 - 08:25 PM in Modifications

I had the same issue. Thanks for making this guide. I'll have to find an alternative as I don't own a dremel. If I find one I'll have to post, or if someone beats me to it.


You only need a drill and a "butterfly" or spade bit to be able to do this.



#324858 Dremel Recommendations

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 28 December 2012 - 11:18 PM in Modifications

I use a Dremel 300 series (corded, variable speed) and it works great. I would also advise getting a dremel bit kit, generic ones will run you ~$15 and have every sort of bit you'll ever need for project.



#324849 Fix for Elite dart jams in Longshots

Posted by TheWiredDJ on 28 December 2012 - 07:58 PM in Modifications

Well, hopefully this constitutes a good enough first post, I've been hanging out around here for awhile now and my write up for an Armpede isn't quite done yet.

Okay, so most people with Longshots have noticed that Elite darts jam like a mother, due to the nature of the new Elite dart dome (it collapses less than streamlines) and the way that the LS dart tooth works.

The Problem: After messing around with the mechs, it appears that the direct cause of the jam is due to the Elite dart dome not being pushed all the way into the bolt, thus it will jam by part of the dome getting caught on the dart tooth as it retracts downward.

The Fix: (Easiest to do if the AR is already out; here's the link if you haven't already done so: AR mod guide). There are a million LS basic mod guides out there, I'm sure I don't need to explain how to open up a LS and pull out the breech and sled assembly. If you haven't already done so, you need to shorten the dart post. I do it by just grabbing it with a pair of needle-nose plies and twisting it off, it's getting trimmed down anyways. It works best to remove the post but leave the stop at the bottom of it where it connects to the walls of the bolt. Take a 1/2" butterfly bit on a drill and hedge out the breech (it will take off a very thin shaving from the inside of the breech) all the way to the bottom of the dart post (where it connects to the wall of the bolt).

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This is a butterfly bit. It also has other names but this is what I'm referring to.
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This is what it looks like after you hedge it out with the bit (AR also removed, Dart post shortened to base, Base of dart post remains, Plunger rod is not pictured).
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Stock, an elite dart will go into the breech this far before it encounters major resistance.
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Modded, it should go in this far before it hits major resistance.
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And there's the fix. Before doing this, I was getting maybe 12/18 shots out with Elite darts. Since doing it, I haven't encountered the jamming problem again.

Note: If you completely remove the dart post and its bottom piece where it connects to the walls of the breech, you will need to add glue, epoxy, or some other material to the rear inside of the bolt to prevent darts from vacuuming all the way back into the plunger. This is why I prefer to just drill into the breech until you hit the bottom of the dart post.