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There have been 30 items by TheWiredDJ (Search limited from 12-November 96)
#340404 Afterburner problem
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 15 July 2014 - 08:43 PM in Modifications
#336154 PTC Fuses on Blade 180 motors
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 29 December 2013 - 08:53 PM in Modifications
#335980 Question about VInyl Dye
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 18 December 2013 - 02:14 PM in Modifications
What will happen if I use it on a translucent plastic piece? Does it cause it to become brittle? Is the color solid or semi transparent? Does the dye soak into clear plastic at all?
From personal experience, I can tell you that it will coat the plastic in the same manner as opaque plastic, and it soaks in to the same extent. For example, the translucent orange jam door on a rapidstrike, when coated with Duplicolor flat black vinyl dye, will turn the same opaque black color as the other Rapidstrike components when coated. It doesn't discriminate based on color (or lack thereof).
#335456 Questions about replacement motors.
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 15 November 2013 - 06:56 PM in Modifications
There are 'thermistors-' they cut out with heat. Remove them.
The pcbs that are physically attached to the motors in a Stryfe are just inductant filters (to channel out RF interference to pass FCC interference regs). You can just rip those off, but those shouldn't physically have an impact on the performance of your DC circuit. The thermister however, is the yellow component on the pcb at the back of the stryfe connected to the battery terminal. That needs to go for modification purposes.
#334843 Painting
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 16 October 2013 - 01:50 PM in Modifications
The main ways to do so are:
-Use a good priming method (some proven combination of vinyl dye, sanding, paint primer, and/or cleaning)
-Choosing good quality paints that will adhere well to plastic (that's another conversation in itself)
-Use good painting techniques when applying coats (there's a ton of guides/tutorials out there for proper application)
-Apply a good clear coat afterwards
As for the wear you're experiencing with moving parts, I believe that most people recommend applying some white lithium grease to areas with moving parts, then wiping away the excess as it can eat the paint away (someone correct me if I'm wrong here), resulting in smooth operation that won't tear into the paintjob nearly as quick.
#332914 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 12 August 2013 - 06:51 AM in Modifications
[Pre-minimization]
[End Product]
[w/ quick-lock stock]
#332858 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 10 August 2013 - 02:12 PM in Modifications
#332619 Question on modding the rapidstrike cs-18
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 02 August 2013 - 11:51 AM in Modifications
#330611 Barrel break ranges
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 06 June 2013 - 10:02 AM in Modifications
#330537 How many people are selling thier designs?
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 03 June 2013 - 04:25 PM in Homemades
#330349 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 29 May 2013 - 04:49 PM in Modifications
The Long(er)Strike / Elite Longstrike / RetalStrike / Whatever you like to call it. Modded Retaliator internals spliced into a longstrike.
#330220 Bowling Green War! (OH)
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 24 May 2013 - 01:51 PM in Nerf Wars
#329928 Rapid Fire AS-20 help
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 17 May 2013 - 03:17 PM in General Nerf
#329631 Rapid Fire AS-20 help
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 10 May 2013 - 11:22 PM in General Nerf
#329622 Rapid Fire AS-20 help
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 10 May 2013 - 10:16 PM in General Nerf
Anyways, I got it, tried it out, and it seems like it won't store air. It pumps, the bladder (or what I assume is the bladder) fills, but the pump handle shoots back out on its own and it seems to lose some of its air pressure when that happens. Also, it cant mass enough air to fire and cycle at all.
I've opened it up and checked it out, traced all of the lines, and all of the tubing and valves are functioning, however the I believe that the problem is the actual pump. It was a b*tch to open (and the little black box on top was still glued on) so I'm assuming that it hasn't been opened before and everything is still correctly assembled inside of it. Can anyone confirm this or point me in the right direction to look for the problem? Thanks.
#329352 Elite Aplha Trooper CS-12, in US stores.
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 04 May 2013 - 03:21 PM in General Nerf
#329253 Pak Designs
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 02 May 2013 - 09:07 AM in General Nerf
Did you order any things that haven't even made it to PakD yet (mouseworm or Retaliator kit)? I know for a fact that people have received multiple orders of foam, tips and stampede gears when ordered straight from PakD, if you ordered something that still hasn't been cleared by their customs (ie their entire mouseworm shipment), then chances are they wont ship your order until it all comes in to them. Don't give up on it yet, I haven't heard any horror stories of their customer service in the past.
#328886 Instant Rev-up for flywheel blaster
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 19 April 2013 - 08:39 PM in Homemades
What I came up with was an idea something like a stryfe with an extended barrel and a shotgun-style handle on it. When you pull the handle back, it would store energy in a spring that would instantly spin the flywheels when you pulled the rev-up secondary trigger. Hopefully, this would cut down on acceleration time, allowing for actual sneak attacks with rapid-fire semi-auto blasting. Of course, you could still pull the secondary trigger before cocking the handle for regular rev-up time.
I don't quite think you understand how flywheels work... They run on purely electrical systems, no spring would have any effect on their use. They have a "spin-up time" due to the stall current they draw (the current it takes to get them up to speed), which can only be "sped up" by using a voltage source that can supply a lot more current. Alkalines and Trustfires don't quite have the discharge capacity that nicer battery packs have, and thus when using them, you will still experience that spin-up time.
And that's not saying go out and buy a few battery packs and throw more voltage at it to attain the current necessary, do some research and find something in your price range that doesn't exceed the voltage range of whatever motors you use and can supply current like a boss.
#328599 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 06 April 2013 - 02:55 PM in Modifications
Another Masterkey:
Triad corner-clearing attachment (fires all three darts simultaneously, with a nice power thanks to a new spring):
And my shiny new RM-kitted Longshot project:
#328566 What is the max voltage on the Elite Rayven?
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 05 April 2013 - 10:10 AM in Modifications
#328315 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 24 March 2013 - 08:58 PM in Modifications
#327915 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 11 March 2013 - 11:22 PM in Modifications
#327646 Barrel Break Elite!
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 05 March 2013 - 09:23 AM in General Nerf
#327462 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 01 March 2013 - 12:38 AM in Modifications
A Stryfe/Rough Cut masterkey commission that just went out
My own Stryfe/Rough Cut masterkey
Bandit stripe style, pumpgrip LS commission I finished not long ago.
MLP Sparkle Twilight themed raider commission
Rebarreled TTE (mega dart version) w/ 1/2" PETG
#325615 Stryfe Modification - Something slightly different...
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 22 January 2013 - 03:30 PM in Modifications
#325111 Fix for Elite dart jams in Longshots
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 06 January 2013 - 10:40 PM in Modifications
Nice Idea! Does the range decrease after doing this fix?
The reason I ask is because it seems that this mod would decrease the launch tube's grip on the dart. And that would not allow as much pressure to build up behind the dart before firing, which might adversely affect the range.
As long as you don't completely bore out the inside of the bolt you're safe, you only want to hedge out enough so that the dart can move a few mm further into the bolt before getting nice and snug (the "resistance" I refer to). The bit should be taking out nothing more than a very thin shaving of plastic. When I tested this, the span range of ranges I was getting was about spot on with the ranges I was getting prior to the mod.
#325012 Fix for Elite dart jams in Longshots
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 02 January 2013 - 10:37 PM in Modifications
Quick question; does anyone see a range increase when using elite darts in a ls instead of streamlines, i lost all my streamlines and they do not sell them anymore.
Elite darts are generally shooting further and straighter (to a degree) than streamlines in just about every gun (bar some non-clip system guns).
#324895 Fix for Elite dart jams in Longshots
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 29 December 2012 - 08:25 PM in Modifications
I had the same issue. Thanks for making this guide. I'll have to find an alternative as I don't own a dremel. If I find one I'll have to post, or if someone beats me to it.
You only need a drill and a "butterfly" or spade bit to be able to do this.
#324858 Dremel Recommendations
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 28 December 2012 - 11:18 PM in Modifications
#324849 Fix for Elite dart jams in Longshots
Posted by TheWiredDJ on 28 December 2012 - 07:58 PM in Modifications
Okay, so most people with Longshots have noticed that Elite darts jam like a mother, due to the nature of the new Elite dart dome (it collapses less than streamlines) and the way that the LS dart tooth works.
The Problem: After messing around with the mechs, it appears that the direct cause of the jam is due to the Elite dart dome not being pushed all the way into the bolt, thus it will jam by part of the dome getting caught on the dart tooth as it retracts downward.
The Fix: (Easiest to do if the AR is already out; here's the link if you haven't already done so: AR mod guide). There are a million LS basic mod guides out there, I'm sure I don't need to explain how to open up a LS and pull out the breech and sled assembly. If you haven't already done so, you need to shorten the dart post. I do it by just grabbing it with a pair of needle-nose plies and twisting it off, it's getting trimmed down anyways. It works best to remove the post but leave the stop at the bottom of it where it connects to the walls of the bolt. Take a 1/2" butterfly bit on a drill and hedge out the breech (it will take off a very thin shaving from the inside of the breech) all the way to the bottom of the dart post (where it connects to the wall of the bolt).
This is a butterfly bit. It also has other names but this is what I'm referring to.
This is what it looks like after you hedge it out with the bit (AR also removed, Dart post shortened to base, Base of dart post remains, Plunger rod is not pictured).
Stock, an elite dart will go into the breech this far before it encounters major resistance.
Modded, it should go in this far before it hits major resistance.
And there's the fix. Before doing this, I was getting maybe 12/18 shots out with Elite darts. Since doing it, I haven't encountered the jamming problem again.
Note: If you completely remove the dart post and its bottom piece where it connects to the walls of the breech, you will need to add glue, epoxy, or some other material to the rear inside of the bolt to prevent darts from vacuuming all the way back into the plunger. This is why I prefer to just drill into the breech until you hit the bottom of the dart post.
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