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There have been 19 items by BK201 (Search limited from 01-December 93)
I understand that most people don't really care about that, just throwing it out there for anyone that is interested in that. Putting less weight on might make them a little more slug like. Most of the 3" darts I made weighed 2.3 grams or more, which seems a little extreme. Most people looking at new homemade darts want them to perform like slugs so pushing the weight forward and lowering the amount of weight helps move accuracy more towards that of a slug dart, as well as making the weight a little more like slugs. Doing both of these things would probably allow you to lower the size of the dart, as well as lower the width of the tape covering the weight. This would increase the hopperability of the darts, as they would be shorter, and have a shorter taped section(the tape tends to be more rigid than foam), which again moves them towards being a little bit more like slugs while still maintaining their safe approvable status.
I believe the quest for metal free darts is one more with safety and approvability than pain.
A gravity hopper may work if you use the 3/4 conduit for your bend instead of the 1/2 inch. To eliminate double feeding you may have to play with where the dart tip picks up the barrel breach at the end of the curve.
I make my hoppers with 1/2 45 degreee bend pvc conduit fitting because I have no local source for WSE. Where I cut my air hole in the back side of the curve I use a slot that is narrower than the dart so darts slide right in to the preach eliminating jams. How far back you slide the breach in the curved fitting gives and adjustment to reduce double feeding.
Can you post a picture of exactly what you mean, I think I understand what you are talking about as far as cutting the backside of a 45 degree conduit fitting and attaching the air source of your gun to the cut or hole in the 45 degree conduit, but I don't quite get what you mean by the placement eliminating double feeding.
I believe that is weatherstripping like this http://www.homedepot...51#.UDaMGKk1bFI as he used that as a weight for these type of darts in his pink foam giveaway thread.
Just to satisfy my curiosity what is that roll on the ground of all the pics? That's not the clay is it? I have never seen clay like that.
If your foam is as thick as stock dart foam then these will work in mostly stock blaster(with no pegs) even with clips, no breech necessary.
So, with a brass breech, could these replace streamlines in CS blasters with stock clips? If you cut them the right length, that is. I do understand that they don't do well with hoppers, and I don't really like that, but I'm just feeling out the waters here.
"There would also be an issue if you barrel material was a little tight on your darts and they required a twist in order to be loaded. "
That actually isn't really a problem as long as you make the taped part of the dart thin enough to enter your barrel easily. Whether or not the tape comes off easily would depend entirely upon what tape you use, I use duct tape and even when the darts get stepped on the tape is still containing the puddy/clay/whatever, and the taped portion of the dart just has to be rolled back and forth to make it usable again. As far as how long they last, I got pink foam from kane on august 6th and immediately made 50 or so darts. 5 local wars later all the darts I still have from that batch are indistinguishable from the darts I made more recently, except for the random felt pads on the front of the old darts, which are a little damp.
I disagree with that statement. In my experience the catch bends under stress from a stronger catch spring. I could be wrong though, I'll try that again.
The catches aren't that weak. The only reason people penny mod them instead of adding more springs is because they're lazy. The catch is fine, but you will need a stronger catch spring.
As for the catch... Why did you reinforce it to begin with? :
I was trying to make it so I could add a stronger spring. I wanted to make a stronger Maverick without making a Nite-Mav. Scraping the epoxy off would fix the problem, but it would put me back at square one with a catch that can't handle a stronger spring.
The plunger moves past the catch just fine, the catch just won't hold the plunger tube.
Pictures would be helpful. I'd say you just epoxied in the way of the plunger rod or spring so it can't get back into catching position by less than a millimeter. It explains why you hear a click, because it starts to catch, but can't go the full length to finish.