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#329667 The Final Iteration of the 3D printed wye!

Posted by BK201 on 11 May 2013 - 03:25 PM in Darts and Barrels

A few questions. Have you done any testing with really long darts? Anything around 3.5 to 4 inches. If it can do that it could fire even the most ridiculously long wire wrap style dart I've ever made. Also is there any difference in the amount of double feeding compared to a normal wye?



#322999 Softer Tips

Posted by BK201 on 24 October 2012 - 09:31 PM in Darts and Barrels

You could try putty wrap darts, as they are very safe, and non painful, so any school official would probably allow them upon reviewing them.



#321164 Putty-wrap darts

Posted by BK201 on 28 August 2012 - 11:02 PM in Darts and Barrels

I believe the quest for metal free darts is one more with safety and approvability than pain.

I understand that most people don't really care about that, just throwing it out there for anyone that is interested in that. Putting less weight on might make them a little more slug like. Most of the 3" darts I made weighed 2.3 grams or more, which seems a little extreme. Most people looking at new homemade darts want them to perform like slugs so pushing the weight forward and lowering the amount of weight helps move accuracy more towards that of a slug dart, as well as making the weight a little more like slugs. Doing both of these things would probably allow you to lower the size of the dart, as well as lower the width of the tape covering the weight. This would increase the hopperability of the darts, as they would be shorter, and have a shorter taped section(the tape tends to be more rigid than foam), which again moves them towards being a little bit more like slugs while still maintaining their safe approvable status.



#321148 Putty-wrap darts

Posted by BK201 on 28 August 2012 - 06:14 PM in Darts and Barrels

If you move the weight further forward, theoretically you would increase accuracy, but the further forward you move the weight the more the dart will hurt. So you can alter your own darts to find the fine balance of accuracy versus pain that you desire. Also if you put less weight closer to the front of the dart, aiming for a dart more in the 1-1.25 gram range you will be able to achieve a step up in accuracy without having the darts hurt too too much.



#321108 "Freehand" Molded Silicone Domes

Posted by BK201 on 27 August 2012 - 08:04 PM in Darts and Barrels

It could be possible to make a more cylindrical mold for the heads of the darts. This would make it possible to have a metal free dart like Kane wants with less pain involved due to the broader striking surface, and the same leveling effect on ranges like slugs offer. That would be cool for anyone looking for a metal free slug alternative...though there would be the same problems with hopper feed that any silicon darts have, possibly even worse due to the consistently wider head of the dart.



#321103 Putty-wrap darts

Posted by BK201 on 27 August 2012 - 04:36 PM in Darts and Barrels

A gravity hopper may work if you use the 3/4 conduit for your bend instead of the 1/2 inch. To eliminate double feeding you may have to play with where the dart tip picks up the barrel breach at the end of the curve.

I make my hoppers with 1/2 45 degreee bend pvc conduit fitting because I have no local source for WSE. Where I cut my air hole in the back side of the curve I use a slot that is narrower than the dart so darts slide right in to the preach eliminating jams. How far back you slide the breach in the curved fitting gives and adjustment to reduce double feeding.


Can you post a picture of exactly what you mean, I think I understand what you are talking about as far as cutting the backside of a 45 degree conduit fitting and attaching the air source of your gun to the cut or hole in the 45 degree conduit, but I don't quite get what you mean by the placement eliminating double feeding.



#321021 Putty-wrap darts

Posted by BK201 on 25 August 2012 - 09:55 PM in Darts and Barrels

The 3" versions of these won't feed through those electrical conduit elbows, the angle is still too steep. Even if they did you would have to set it up as (from right to left) magazine, PVC T, Conduit elbow, barrel material, and connect the bottom of the T to the gun via a 45 degree elbow. I've tried that setup with HAMPs, and it always feeds 2 or more darts, which is cool for a shotgun HAMP but not for a hopper style feed. These darts feed through a RSCB perfectly fine, by the way. They tend to slide in so the foam part of the dart past the tape sticks in. EDIT: Even darts made from super thick MHA foam still feed perfectly in an RSCB.



#320987 Putty-wrap darts

Posted by BK201 on 25 August 2012 - 11:31 AM in Darts and Barrels

I was messing around with different PVC setups to try and get longer darts to feed by gravity, when I remembered this post by Boot http://nerfhaven.com...90 His skewed RSCB would probably work for the 3" darts(being around the same size as stremelines) however I have no idea what type of pipe would work for that gradual bend. If a material that could bend like that could be found that could solve the lack of hopperability.



#320908 Putty-wrap darts

Posted by BK201 on 23 August 2012 - 03:02 PM in Darts and Barrels

Just to satisfy my curiosity what is that roll on the ground of all the pics? That's not the clay is it? I have never seen clay like that.

I believe that is weatherstripping like this http://www.homedepot...51#.UDaMGKk1bFI as he used that as a weight for these type of darts in his pink foam giveaway thread.



#320897 Putty-wrap darts

Posted by BK201 on 23 August 2012 - 10:49 AM in Darts and Barrels

So, with a brass breech, could these replace streamlines in CS blasters with stock clips? If you cut them the right length, that is. I do understand that they don't do well with hoppers, and I don't really like that, but I'm just feeling out the waters here.

If your foam is as thick as stock dart foam then these will work in mostly stock blaster(with no pegs) even with clips, no breech necessary.

"There would also be an issue if you barrel material was a little tight on your darts and they required a twist in order to be loaded. "

That actually isn't really a problem as long as you make the taped part of the dart thin enough to enter your barrel easily. Whether or not the tape comes off easily would depend entirely upon what tape you use, I use duct tape and even when the darts get stepped on the tape is still containing the puddy/clay/whatever, and the taped portion of the dart just has to be rolled back and forth to make it usable again. As far as how long they last, I got pink foam from kane on august 6th and immediately made 50 or so darts. 5 local wars later all the darts I still have from that batch are indistinguishable from the darts I made more recently, except for the random felt pads on the front of the old darts, which are a little damp.



#320094 mad ghost problems

Posted by BK201 on 07 August 2012 - 04:23 PM in Homemades

I've had a similar problem with the jspb style blaster I built. 30psi or higher made the trigger pull a little unmanageable, especially if you are trying to have a quick trigger pull to use the semi auto function of any of the newer jspb models. I've been trying to think of a lever style trigger that could be used for this to allow for an easier and faster trigger pull. I've been using mine spun 90 degrees so I can pull the trigger with my thumb, which kind of works.



#320051 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by BK201 on 06 August 2012 - 08:07 PM in Homemades

Jspb style gun
Posted Image



#318376 Mad ghost style check valve

Posted by BK201 on 12 July 2012 - 01:03 PM in Homemades

I am trying to build a mad ghost style gun, but I cannot find the kind of check valve he uses, the kind that look like threaded unions. Does anyone know what that kind of check valve is called?



#318106 N-Strike vs Vortex

Posted by BK201 on 06 July 2012 - 10:57 PM in General Nerf

When my friends and I have played with stock blasters the vortex series takes and advantage during certain situations, such as any long distances, and scenarios when storming the other "side" is illegal or impossible. The rules we play by death by a shot to the head 2 to the body or 3 to the limbs, no combinations, make it so the consistency of the vortex blaster's shots stand out, since its easier to headshot someone. However when one group can storm the other generally the clip systems ability to just launch a massive amount of darts allows them to crush the competition. I've noticed that the disks seem to mysteriously disappear from seemingly clean locations(all furniture is completely covered in sheets when battles occur to make finding ammo easy) even in a car with the windows closed on the way home from buying the Vigilon we lost 2 disks.



#316849 Maverick catch problems

Posted by BK201 on 10 June 2012 - 09:47 PM in Modifications

The catches aren't that weak. The only reason people penny mod them instead of adding more springs is because they're lazy. The catch is fine, but you will need a stronger catch spring.

I disagree with that statement. In my experience the catch bends under stress from a stronger catch spring. I could be wrong though, I'll try that again.



#316766 Maverick catch problems

Posted by BK201 on 09 June 2012 - 01:48 PM in Modifications

[quote name='Blue' timestamp='1339267392' post='316765']

As for the catch... Why did you reinforce it to begin with? :
I was trying to make it so I could add a stronger spring. I wanted to make a stronger Maverick without making a Nite-Mav. Scraping the epoxy off would fix the problem, but it would put me back at square one with a catch that can't handle a stronger spring.



#316764 Maverick catch problems

Posted by BK201 on 09 June 2012 - 01:41 PM in Modifications

I have figured out what the problem is. The epoxy has made the inner diameter of the catch smaller than the outer diameter of the plunger tube. This is forcing the catch to bend despite the epoxy when the gun is primed. I might be able to fix this by sanding part of the plunger tube, and or some of the epoxy.



#316757 Maverick catch problems

Posted by BK201 on 09 June 2012 - 11:49 AM in Modifications

Pictures would be helpful. I'd say you just epoxied in the way of the plunger rod or spring so it can't get back into catching position by less than a millimeter. It explains why you hear a click, because it starts to catch, but can't go the full length to finish.

The plunger moves past the catch just fine, the catch just won't hold the plunger tube.



#316754 Maverick catch problems

Posted by BK201 on 09 June 2012 - 11:21 AM in Modifications

I have been trying to strengthen the catch for my Maverick, i tried epoxying pieces of plastic and even small pieces of metal, but they snapped off. Most recently I tried covering the sides with a small amount of epoxy puddy. The catch no longer bends under pressure, but when i put it back in the gun even with the stock spring the gun won't prime, it will just click and go sliding back into place. I have no idea what's going on and would appreciate some advice on this.