Using this, printing this today, do you know if this is airtight already or should I just wrap it in tape so no air escapes?

All I had to do was clean up the inside of the barrels from some of the printing imperfections; what I did was drill in REVERSE with a half inch bit down each barrel. Instead of tape, I epoxied the stub of CPVC into the end, which guaranteed a seal and was permanent.

I GOT THIS ONE
You mentioned something about 3D printing, which I've done a bit with for absolvers. I made a simple 3 shot barrel in CAD, here it is:


Just stick a stub of 0.5" CPVC into the back to attach it to a coupler system.

Also here is a link to the .STL, if it doesn't work for some reason let me know:
LINK

Hey that's me! I did pretty much exactly what shmmee said. It's in no way optimal but it gets the job done and I didn't have to mess with the tank itself much at all. Here are some pictures that might help

 


Bonus shot of the whole thing

For the first one, you should definitely leave the holes on the back of the plunger tube. These help avoid a vacuum in the rear part of the plunger as the piston moves forward, making it move faster in general. I think there is a small hole in the plunger head that you'll want to fill. This mod guide by SG Nerf covers most of the basics, just ignore the battery part, it's a bit outdated in that subject.

This is fucking awesome, everything about it. That double hopper system is so cool, I would never have thought of something like that. You can reload one while shooting the out of the other hopper, so you're pretty much never out. I need to try this.

Oh well, at least I have my money back to get some more men darts.

By men darts, do you mean those KNEX knockoffs that Slug uses? If so how do they hopper/fly for you? I got some and they are kinda shoddy in both those departments.

Wow this is super cool! I bet you could replace the tape measure with some other material too, just something that bends and springs back into place easily.

This is by far the craziest thing I've made. It's exactly what you think it is. The Reactor has an SVT Berserker tank inside of it and custom 3D printed trigger.
Closeup of some of the more interesting 3D printed bits.

Keep in mind if you don't have any materials at all it will cost this much up-front, but you also have plenty of extra material left over like paint and epoxy for other projects. Unless you want to contract it, then those can get expensive if you want a quality job. I don't even know of anybody right now that regularly accepts contracts.

Without trimming, I heard the Big Bad Bow springs fit well with the stock, and I believe Nitefinders and things like Recons and Raiders fit. If you're willing to cut and can get your hands on them, [k26] and [k25] springs work REALLY well

Just finished this monster up.

Expanded plunger tube Big Bad Bow loosely following Zorn's writeup. Hits like a truck with a 5 dart RSCB.
Edit: It also hoppers like a pro

I figured I should post some of the stuff I've made recently

Zerker with integrated Air Max 6 tank and pump. This is one of my favorites, and I used it recently at a war and it worked really well, even got a couple tags with the AM6. The blast button for the secondary shot is right where you would have your hand if you were naturally holding it.

I'm REALLY happy with how this one turned out. It's a pump replaced XBZ in a raider shell using the stock overpressure valve. Uses a brit hopper because a standard one was kind of inconsistent. Shoots just a little softer than the Zerker (small tank 4B). Super clean, hardly had to do any cutting at all.

Just look at that sexy hole

Painted NF with the standard mods, plus replaced plunger tube with a clear one and added a green LED in place of the stock one.

Picture of the light. Not super bright, but eh.

Looks nice! Kind of off topic, but for the RSCB, I highly recommend using a "street" elbow or tee, which reduces deadspace by a sizable amount and looks MUCH cleaner. This is what I'm talking about, it might be officially called something else.

I can also come to this, but I won't be able to get there until around 12:00 if thats ok

It's really not an exact science, you have to sort of play around with it until it works. If it helps Make sure to start longer, and then cut it down from there. If you can "feel" the catch engage, even though it maybe won't hold, that is a good length. If there is no click at all near the rear of the blaster, then the spring is too long. It's hard to explain exactly what you should be looking for, but you should know it when you feel it.

It's possible that the [k25]/26 is too long, not allowing the back of the plunger rod to reach the catch plate. I personally have a cut down [k26] in my Longshot and it catches just fine with nothing more than a slightly stronger spring.

One of my first paintjobs


Just finished this one

Just a little something I've been working on:

And this:

This would most definitely work. If I'm not mistaken, the Sledgefire only uses one plunger tube, making singling easy. Although, I'm pretty sure these kinds of posts aren't exactly... encouraged. It would be great if you tried it and then posted a write up on what you did.

Your ranges seem to be correct comparing it with my results from the Panther but it looks like you didn't do anything to the OPRV. I can guarantee Ranges over 100' with an adjusted OPRV. Don't worry. The tank can take it.

Yeah, I left the OPRV intact because I have had terrible luck with air guns (leaks, explosions, etc.). I figured that was why I wasn't getting 100 feet.
FINAL PICTURE:

Very nice Manta, This is what I was thinking of doing with mine. I'm going to let it sit until I come up with a way to add a clip though seeing as the very low rate of fire will just make it useless for any war application. You should test some longer barrels on it and see if you could hit higher ranges.

I just tried a longer barrel (super long, shortened slowly after testing), and I am getting about 5-10 feet more on average. Still not what I thought this could achieve, Although its definitely not bad. I also added a sheath over the brass that extended about 2 inches from the edge of the brass. Oddly, this boosted ranges by a few feet and made it MUCH more accurate. The new barrel length is ~10" with a ~12" length of 1/2" PVC. Tomorrow I will get some more pictures up. I agree with the ROF issue, it really is terrible. Unfortunately, due to the nature of the pump, it would have to be replaced. If you can figure that out, it would just be a matter of making an angel breech.

Or, (something I'm wanting to try)-Put the 1/2" brass IN the faux barrel. Then, (with the 17/32" in the bolt), you can fire "any" dart without the faux barrel, and when you screw in the faux barrel, it will have the breeching effect, and the longer barrel for homemade darts.

Thats actually a really cool idea! Only 1/2" brass is too tight to fit darts, so maybe use 9/16 and sort of a coupler?

It comes with a removable faux barrel in box. I think he's got it covered.

Actually, the spacer for the brass gets in the way of the threads. Don't worry though, I will cover it with PVC before I use it much.

I recently acquired the Range Master, and the stock ranges EASILY achieve 60 feet with a slight angle. the AR removal boosted ranges by about 5 feet, but I wanted to shoot slugs, as well as boost that range. This is what I came up with.

Materials:
1. 1/2" brass
2. 17/32" brass
3. Electrical tape
4. 3/4" PVC endcap
5. About 3 inches of 3/4" PVC
6. About 3 inches of 1/2" PVC
**HELPFUL TIP: When you take out the screws, flip it over, as the internals are on that side.

First off, you need to remove the dart tooth:

next, cut your 1/2" brass to 2.5"

Wrap it in E-tape to fit in the bolt (you could also glue it, but I wanted it to be removable.

Next, nest your 1/2" PVC, 3/4" PVC, and 3/4" PVC end cap. Wrap this in E-tape to fit in the threaded "barrel extension port." Again, you could glue these pieces.

Cut your 17/32 brass to a desired barrel length (I chose 5.5 inches, but it could probably use more). then wrap it in E-tape to fit 1/2" PVC. Once again, you could glue this.

You should have the brass sticking just over an inch from the orange. Also, wrap the orange in E-tape to keep it from wobbling.

Here are the finished internals:

And in the shell:

Overview of how the bolt works:




Pretty cool, right?

Ranges: mid eighties to high seventies.
Also, this is how the air release works:

The black triangle type shape moves up to hit the blast button, but it is stopped by an orange piece:

The orange piece holds it back until sufficient pressure is built up by pulling the trigger, then it moves back (spring loaded). This makes the black piece "flick" the blast button at a fairly high speed.

I'm not sure about back pressure tanks, but with normal ones I know it is beneficial to release the air quickly.
Questions or comments?

Stupid question alert. The OP said streamlines are not compatible. Does this include elite darts? I would like to think not because of the core, but could someone affirm this for me?

Elite darts are compatible with the stock range master, though the darts it came with (EXTREMELY DENSE) actually work better, and are more accurate.

SMALL UPDATE: Make the trigger not wobble! All you have to do is add two pieces of cardboard on each side of the L bracket

This prevents the bracket from moving from side to side. Also, it hides the clothespin. BONUS!

One last overall view, looks pretty clean.

This is one of my new favorite blasters as well!

Hi, I'm new here. I know of a mod I found on YouTube that involves replacing the front of a maverick with a front of a recon making barrel attachments available to the maverick. Pretty straightforward if you have done other mods.

I would have to say don't do that. The barrel attachments only add friction with decreases range by a lot, especially in a maverick. They would utterly destroy the range in a mav, unless you replace the barrels, then it might get you to stock ranges.

If you really want to maximize draw without leaving it pull and release, you could actually just spend $5 extra at Target and grab the "Xploderz Magnum 700". (Picture here)It has the same design overall (as compared to the rest of the Xploderz line which has the under-barrel priming nob, such as the Xranger or the Xground Pounder) but for the extra $5 you get 2 more "sections" on the plunger tube. By sections, I mean the 5 aesthetic grid/segments on the outside of the plunger. The Magnum has 7 which I guess adds about 2-3 inches more draw. The Xblaster 200 is already too bulky to be a pistol so I don't think the added weight/bulk would be too much of a hastle. Yesterday, at Target the Xblaster 200 retailed for $12.99 while the Magnum went for $17.99.

I actually almost got that, but I noticed it really did not have any more draw than the Xblaster when I compared them side-by-side, if anything the Xblaster had more. Given this, I figured it would be better to go with the cheaper and more compact version. I'm pretty sure the Xmagnum's range claims are plain lies, because I could never get 30 of the advertised 50 out of my Xblaster, even angled. So, I would just recommend getting the Xblaster.

It most likely adds a few feet and nothing more; it only adds what looks like a quarter of an inch of draw.

I'm not actually sure how much more draw it has compared to Eraser's, but it looks like it has more. Also, my darts don't get the best springer fit in CPVC, you different darts might get different ranges.

But does the L-bracket wobble in the nail? It looks to me like it would.

Yes, that is the one thing I don't like about this blaster. The bracket can wobble, but when primed the clothes pin actually holds it in place, so it doesn't wobble.

Interesting trigger setup, how does it compare to a more traditional clothes pin trigger?
(It looks like it would be less durable, but I like the way it moves)

It has a little easier pull than a normal CPT, because of the mechanical advantage. It seems to be holding up just fine after about 50 shots, so I think it is just as durable as a normal CPT.

So, this is my first contribution to the forums, so if I am doing something wrong please tell me.
Alright, so I got the Xblaster intending to do Eraser475's excellent mod, but noticed my plunger head was different:

It did not have the white spacer in it, so I was able to get more draw. That also meant that I could not make the clothes pin that far forward without sacrificing draw, so I set about creating my own design.
This is a post mod writeup, so I do not have in-progress pictures, but I feel it can be understood by the pictures. This is what you clothes pin should look like completed:

When the L bracket is pulled back, it forces the clothes pin open, while held in place by a nail:

The nail on the bottom (you can barely see it) is the nail that catches. Here is a view of the nail moving up and down:


The hole for the nail is drilled 2 inches from the back.
I also had to put some screws in to keep the orange disk from moving, giving the nail something to catch on:

Here is a picture of the finished internals, complete with a copper/cpvc RSCB:

Here it is with the cover on and a 7 inch cpvc barrel (I do not know if this is optimal, so if anyone knows, please let me know).

Primed:

Trigger closeup:


It gets 5.25 inches of draw, not bad for a stock draw length.
RANGES: With the RSCB, it tops out at about 80, averaging in the 70's
Well, thats it, questions or comments?

Sneak Peek:



Writeup coming sometime next week (or later if I decide to be lazy).

Just put e tape under the original o-ring. Also, NEVER stretch the spring in a recon, and maybe other reverse plunger blasters as well. I've heard it ruins the shape of the spring and prevents the blaster's ability to prime. Stretching springs in general is a really bad idea, and finding replacement springs for the recon is very difficult without buying from Orange Mod Works. Your best option for spring power in a recon without paying ~$13 for a spring would be a power stock, used here.

I would have to say the first option looks like a better idea. A bladder would be much better in this situation, If you are still using the original piston. Anyway, with the connected tanks option, one pump tube goes equally into two bladders, theoretically filling both in the same time instead of one more than the other. But if you look at how a RF20 bladder is setup, you might want to set it up like this:

If you actually are using air tanks, what would you plan on using? I know Titan tanks have two inputs on the back, so that might be useful.

This is a nice idea! I always tried to glue the end of the plunger so it would contact the turret better, but this allows you to move it but still make it stay close to the turret while firing. Right now I am using E-tape with a hole cut in it for the seal, and it works pretty well. And just another question, are those ranges angled or flat? Because I can never push my mavericks past 35 feet, even with the mods you did.

Your really pumping out these mods aren't you? It's nice to see a new person contributing something. As for the mod, I would not recommend adding weight to the back of the plunger tube, as it adds mass and makes the PT move slower, resulting in slower air delivery.

Bolt action snap. I call it the Bolt Snapper for laughs.

If I get some PM's, I might do a writeup, but it's all very simple.

Not to backseat mod, but this is pretty much a "which is better" thread, and those generally aren't well accepted. My personal opinion would be an RSCB or brithop.

Noce job again! For some reason I feel like you could achieve MUCH better ranges with a re-barrel, but it may just be me. Also, I find it funny how the plunger head is almost exactly like a snap and the catch is close to a clothespin trigger.