How did he get it cut to fit so nicely around the flywheels? What tool(s) would he have used for that

It's almost certainly done with a dremel or similar rotary tool, using a cut-off wheel and sanding drum. Though the same result could be achieved with a jeweler's saw and sandpaper.

I remember reading something about that too, in a comment on the nerf flywheelers fb page. I think he also mentioned flaring the breech (or whatever that end is called in a nerf blaster)

How do you mean, using brass tubing to guide the darts through the flywheels?

The brass is cut in a way that allows it to pass through the flywheel housing without interfering with the moving parts. as seen in this video

I have not tested the accuracy or fps involved, but somewhere I read about using 9/16 brass to guide darts through the flywheels and stabilize them further afterwards. If you have the means to pull it off that may be a good route to go. If you want to use pvc instead that should work fine. Just make sure its a larger inner diameter than the barrel preceding it, to ensure your darts don't get stuck within. Length should probably be somewhere between 6 & 14 inches.

There's really only one way to find out.

We could really benefit from some proper information about air tanks' characteristics like stock operating pressure, volume, failure pressure, and emptying efficiency. Maybe one day i or someone else will get the chance to do that.

I know with silicone domes, corn starch on the tips can keep them from sticking. Also the lower angle in 3D printed wyes feed them a lot more reliably. Or you could try to tackle replacing the hopper with actual magazines designed for stefans, or a tube magazine like on this setro's PANB 870

July 16th would most likely work for me, I will be far away in the land of platteville on the 30th

Cool blaster, with the adjustable catch pin and all.

He called it that.

This looks good, but why bother with the polycarbonate? Why not just use a clothespin trigger?

Mostly because I didn't have plastic cloths pins and epoxy putty laying around. But some other good things are you don't have to make any sort of ramp on the plunger head, and its not such a big deal if you use a wider spring.

Contest submission for the snap class
The Big Ass Jolt

The Big Ass Jolt



Goal: To make a short to medium range blaster that is super portable, reliable and has a small magazine.
All materials and tools (or substitutes) can be purchased from Martin’s or Ace hardware stores

The ranges on this particular blaster are up to around 60 feet, but if you have a heavier spring it can do better.

The BAJ is a lot like the Dont Call it That (DCiT) but it's made with more common materials and overall, less fancy.

Part one: Materials list



Plunger tube (the center of the blaster, the plunger tube houses most of the blaster’s moving parts)

• 1-1/2 inch pvc 6-3/4 inches long
• 1-1/4 to 1 inch pvc bushing
• 1-1/4 to 1/2 inch pvc bushing
• 5x medium screws (scavanged from blasters I killed)

Plunger head (creates a seal within the plunger tube and moves to compress air)

• 1/2 inch cpvc end cap
• 1-1/4 inch #6 bolt round head
• 2x 1-1/2 inch fender washer
• 1/4 x 1/2 inch nylon spacer
• #6 finishing washer
• 3/16 - 1-1/2 neoprene washer
• #6 stop/lock nut
• 1 small screw

Plunger rod (guides the plunger head and spring)

• 1/2 inch cpvc 6-1/2 inch long
• 1/2 inch cpvc tee
• 1 small screw
• Big Bad Bow spring or something similar

Barrel and magazine (launches darts and holds extra shots)

• 1/2 inch cpvc 5-1/4 inches long
• 1/2 inch pvc 2 inches long
• 1/2 inch pvc 6-1/2 inches long
• 1/2 inch pvc tee
• 3/4 inch cpvc ball valve (or a cheaper substitute)

Catch/trigger (holds and releases the plunger assembly to control when the blaster shoots)

• 1/4 inch polycarbonate about a 1x6 rectangle
• 1/16 steel pin 1 inch long
• rubber band

Part two: Tools List

• pipe cutter
• file
• hacksaw/bandsaw/scrollsaw
• drill plus 1/4 and 3/32 drill bits
• measuring tape/stick
• knife
• screwdriver
• pliers or your gripping tool of choice
• dremel with a couple different cutting bits (a knife and small file can also get the job done)

Small percents of these products were consumed: sandpaper, plumbing goop, super lube, and electrical tape

Part three: Plunger tube



The 1-1/4 to 1 inch pvc bushing is not the size we actually need but its closer than any other parts. It needs to have some tape and goop to seal properly.
Wrap about 7 layers of electrical tape onto the bushing, if it does not slide into the plunger tube it will have to be unravled a bit and trimmed down.



Mark a line between the bushing and plunger tube to aid the alignment of the screwholes, then drill the three holes through the tube and bushing evenly spaced around the plunger tube's circumference.



Once the holes are in place apply a generous helping of goop to the bushing, slide it into the plunger tube and align the screw holes, then drive in the screws. Wipe away excess goop and let it dry.



Drill a hole in the side of the plunger tube and square it off a bit so the catch can get at the plunger head, it should be about two inches from the bottom but its placement will vary based on your spring.
Be careful not to place it too high on the plunger tube, otherwise it will damage the plunger head’s seal.

Part four: Barrel and magazine



This ½ inch tee needs to be modified so that it can be jammed into the bushing we just gooped in. Since we dont have a lathe the next best thing is the good ol' file and sandpaper combo.
The vertical part of this 'T' has to be thinned down. So just file down the outside, trying to keep it cylindrical, check it against the bushing to make sure it fits tightly.



To fabricate a barrel take the cpvc and taper one end with a file dremel and/or knife (This will help the darts feed). Then pound that barrel into the short bit of 1/2 inch pvc and taper the end of that as well.



Goop up the tee and hammer it into the bushing keeping the tee aligned with the catch-hole.



While you are at it make a magazine, trim an end off the ball valve, tape around an end of the 1/2 inch pvc so the valve fits on the end nicely.

Part five: Plunger assembly



Assemble your plunger head by drilling a hole in a cpvc end cap and putting a bolt through. Then stacking and tightening down the 7 bits of hardware:
(fender washer, nylon spacer, fender washer, small neoprene washer, large neoprene washer, finishing washer, lock nut) Then attach the plunger head to the plunger rod with two screws.



You can now finish the plunger assembly; put the spring and the second bushing as well as the cpvc tee onto the plunger rod and secure it with a screw.

Part six: Catch and trigger



Almost done now comes the trigger/catch. Cut out a couple of half rounds or triangles to act as a fulcrum. Then cut a shape like the one shown to act as the trigger/catch it should be about 4-1/2 inches long and the little horn bit should be about 5/16 of an inch long.



Check the fit of your new trigger and glue down the fulcrum bits with plumbers goop or epoxy (hot glue may be sufficient)



Drill some holes through the half-rounds so your steel pin can fit through then place the trigger in its spot and drill through that as well.



Put the trigger on with the pin and rubber band. Lube up the plunger tube and slide the plunger assembly into it. Use a couple more screws to hold the lower bushing in place.



Test out and hone the trigger; if it catches but does not fire the ‘catch horn’ needs to be shortened or the trigger just needs be adjusted to pivot farther.
If it does not catch at all the catch is too close to the bottom of the plunger tube, this can be fixed by grinding the lower face of the catch horn or shortening your spring.

Part seven: Done
Go shoot some stuff



And yes, it fits in a lunch box

You have to look at problems that current designs have and imagine something that would solve that. Or think of a specific purpose and imagine the ways it could be filled. I'm working out plans for a semi-auto airgun and a dual plunger tube bow-gauntlet.

With the proper syringe you could fill the head with silicone, that would be more pleasant than being hit with hot glue. Otherwise if there was another vent hole exactly opposite of the stock one that might help. Most of the inaccuracy comes from their asymmetry and low weight; any way you can remedy that should help.

The larger the scale of any event the harder it is to keep people from being bothered by it. But if everybody was super polite and nobody got wierded out by the erratic youths (or their gun-like objects) it would go down without a hitch.

Sounds good to me. Maybe now i will be motivated enough to finish some blaster projects!

A quick test revealed that you can make an elite whistler, although it requires higher speeds and produces a less noticeable whistle. This is probably because the head has less airspace inside of it. By cutting a rectangular hole in the side of the dome (just like a normal whistler has) the elite dart can produce an audible whistle at relatively low speeds. I don't currently have any information on the max/min speed, how hole placement affects the noise, or range/accuracy changes. Logically there would be a decrease in range and accuracy if your darts are modified in this way, but i have no proof.

Insanity at its finest! Its awesome to see a crazy idea work, whether its useful or not.

alternatively you could drill holes in the tubes to reduce the rope used. right?

Dimples are supposed to help accuracy. They shouldn't be that problematic with a barrel seal.

cool, if i can find a proper gasket, i plan to make something like the reactor to shoot these

I took a stroll through target and i found some practice golf balls, they have a non-pours exterior and they are dimpled, and have similar squishyness to green ballistic balls. I want to ask you guys if you think these are safe for wars or If the dimples will make these unusable. And also i wanted inform people of these balls' presence. sorry about the blur my phonecam has a bad shutter speed

i will make sure my family has no excuses to keep me from this nerf war

A jacko lantern made by me. Accompanied by 4 more made by family and freinds. One of which was meant to read "team easily distracted" but it seems their carving session was cut short.

must say, i am intrigued by the ider of a whole nerf weekend thinger

I would like to help but what kind of marshmallow blaster is it? Can we perhaps have a picture of the area in question?

this guy might show up. i want to get down with the milwaukee nerf again.

Adding to the calendar. This is on a Tuesday?

yes. i didn't realize how staggered spring break was even within one city.

March:
[url=http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23760] 26 [WI] Green Bay NERF event[/url]

The plan is to do some nerfing in Green Bay during (our) spring break

March 26 at 11-AM (not totally final)
at Preble park not far from the east town mall but somewhat hidden

rules are simple...
1 - you must wear some form of eye protection
2 - don't be a jerk, you should posess some amount of maturity
3 - blasters can not be painted like real guns
4 - you are 'hit' if ammo touches you and changes direction (ie - not just brushing against your hair)
5 - ammo should be stock, slugs, or otherwise soft in nature but i reserve the right to disallow it.
6 - stock, modded, and homades are all fine just keep the power reasonable, like < 115 feet

we do not have much of an ammo stash so bring what you can, and maybe a loanable blaster too

bring water and food as you see fit

I'm wondering if anybody has information about stock volume or pressure of any air guns (like the panther, supermaxx1500, titan, airtech2000)or maybe just failure psi. this info could help me a lot with a multishot air blaster I'm planning on building. otherwise i will test some of these things and later post results for you all. --- mesurements yay! > SM-1.5k has 16ml tank > Panther gets 45psi before the oprv. starts to leak but can exceed 50psi stock.

really cool idea. all nerf projects should be this badass

I put together a breech for my longshot this week actually, made specifically for streamlines. I used the usual hot glue gap filler tightening rings and e-tape for loose connections and it only took 3 1-foot bits of brass to build. Im not sure how other breeches preform but the only problem i had with this was shooting white streamlines, guess they are wider than elites and oranges



looks like i messed up the picture, the purple is 9/16

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm sure i will be at a Milwaukee war every couple months from now on, i had a great time. who knows maybe i can even start a nerf group around here!

Wondering if there are many nerfers near Green Bay, i would like to do some wars locally if possible!

I'm not exactly prepared, but i would like to get in on this war.