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There have been 335 items by hamoidar (Search limited from 23-February 93)
The diameter tolerances are listed as ±0.020", about a tenth of the entire diameter of the foam. I'm not convinced that those tolerances are tight enough for a consistent fit in the barrel. And besides, how are you going to weight these darts? Put a little airsoft pellet on the tip? Then why not just shoot airsoft pellets?
I plan on running the foam thru a section of heated airsoft barrel, as the foam is heated it shrinks to exactly the diameter of the barrel.
The darts will be weighted with 1/16" steel balls from McMaster, and the foam will be melted into a dome over the steel balls.
The point of this gun is to have a really cool, SAFE, replica revolver that can be used at an indoor Nerf war.
What you say is true, however, I would build this for the sake of aesthetics.
Is it just me, or are neither of the links working?
As far as Airsoft to Nerf conversions, I'm sure it's possible.
But for $50 you can make some wicked homemade internals that would most likely perform much better than the airsoft gun.
I've seen a few Paintball to Nerf conversions, but never an Airsoft one. You should undertake this project, if for nothing more than knowledge gained.
Well, you wouldn't be firing standard darts, instead you would load the gun with mini darts made from the 1/4" foam from Mcmaster. Therefore, the darts would only weigh 3 or 4 times as much as an airsoft pellet, allowing the gun to fire them with relatively adequate power. Again the main purpose of this conversion would be for the "cool" factor.
Airsoft guns are about an order of magnitude less powerful than a homemade nerf gun - pellets are about a 1/10th of the weight of nerf darts, and are propelled to about the same velocities as high-end homemade nerf blasters (about 300fps). Beyond that, the power systems are optimized around a projectile with 1/5th the cross-sectional area of a standard dart. Add the high price of even inexpensive airsoft guns, and you have yourself some hilariously cost-inefficient blasters. Maybe you'll do well against the Super Soaker conversion blasters.
I realize that airsoft is typically repulsed here at nerfhaven, but perhaps these unfortunate faux firearms can be redeemed.
What if one was to take this:
And instead of firing 6mm rounds from this gun, one could make mini slugs/stefans from this:
I also realize that this is a speculation thread, however, I would like to get some opinions from other members before I spend $50 on an airsoft pistol.
Has anyone done this?
Do you think it could work?
I have found that with some modding of the disc blaster, higher ranges, accuracy, and speed can be achieved.
Here are a few helpful threads:
http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=21586' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>mod guide
http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=21743' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>magazine mod
1. The plungers do not fire at the same time, therefor, the first plunger that fires will have more effect on the dart than the second. This will decrease range but only slightly.
2. I wish the barrel was centered with the gun, as I like to sight along the tactical rail. Of course, this is a matter of personal preferance.
3. Not a problem: I think that using two smaller plungers to fire a dart at the same range as one large plunger is a great idea! why? Because, two small plungers might be able to fit into a shell/cavity that a large one would not.
Overall a very good job!
Discs are more accurate than darts can ever hope to be.
What I don't like about balls is my same argument with discs, they suffer when it comes to accuracy and precision. If this blaster or new line if ball shioters boasts some new range, will that range be effective? Or will it be useless because of accuracy issues?
30 seconds? That's crazy.
My internet signal is always very weak, but my lag isn't that bad. Maybe it is just your internet connection. It takes maybe 30 seconds to load a page in the mods/homemades pictures thread. It takes like 5 seconds to load a thread like this. Sometimes though it takes a while to load, but that is not often.
Although I don't have to wait 30 seconds, my site browsing has slowed down considerably since the server migration.
1. Are you using stock nerf darts?
2. If the answer to #1 is yes then there is your problem, as the heads of the darts will cause friction in the brass barrel. Therefore, preventing high velocities.
3. Is your plunger head to plunger tube seal good?
4. Is the shell to bolt seal good?
5. Is the shell to barrel seal good?
If you are not using stock darts then your problem is probably a seal. I had to remake the bolt/ejector 4 times before I got it to work!
Feel free to PM me!
In my experience, JB weld is not good for tubing because it is rigid, and the tubing flexes, causing the JB to crack.
Most epoxy types take at least 24 hours to cure.
I would really recommend using super glue. It will hold the tubing like no tomorrow.
Since air is compressible, the less "dead space" or un-used space the better. When The plunger is released, the air in the barrel/plunger tube is compressed behind the dart until the pressure is enough to overcome the static friction holding said dart. When you have a large amount of dead space, the air ends up compressing instead of firing the dart with as much force.
Those pegs on the side of the plunger rod fit into the shell to hold it in so it won't move around so cutting those off and putting the coupler down deeper seems to me like it wouldn't make the gun shoot any better.
The reason I ask is because it seems that this mod would decrease the launch tube's grip on the dart. And that would not allow as much pressure to build up behind the dart before firing, which might adversely affect the range.
EDIT: nevermind, I didn't see where you said you were doing a barrel replacement. This is what happens when you stay up til 3am.
Just wanted to note that it's the same as the 2nd bullPAC and also the rubber band blaster, but not so much the 1st bullPAC, whose catch was somewhat similar to Atomatrons lever catch (ERTL?), and whose rod seal was merely "drill a hole of about the right size". Scroll down in that thread to see a picture of the 2nd bullPAC, as well as the rubber band blaster in assembled and disassembled state. Or just look down here to see a picture and diagram of the handle/catch as applied to the rubber band blaster:
The catch spring was rubber-band kludged here, and the housing block didn't come about until the 3rd bullPAC, of which only the handle was ever posted in the picture thread. As per usual, I didn't actually plan it out in advance so the catchspring housing just ended up taped on and looks much worse than Ryan's slick sandwich housing.
Might I suggest you take a peek at this: http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=23365' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Crossbow The catch I used in the crossbow is only one piece, and is capable of holding a 30lb draw longbow.
EDIT: all credit for the catch goes to Meaker IV.
In all seriousness though, this is a nice set of mods! I'm not really a big proponent of extending the range of the elite blasters, as it is already quite good, but the other two mods are quite useful (to me, that is).
A few questions:
1. Does removing the "wings" above the clip holder detract from the structural integrity of the gun?
2. What are you going to do when you hit one of the clips against something and the locked clutch causes massive internal damage?
Good job, nice write-up!
Just try it and see. If it doesn’t work you can just use mysterio’s method.
Has anybody just twisted out the pegs with pliers? I really don't want to open it up until I get a second to do a full re-barrel. I have a war next week and just want to be able to shoot streamlines.
By removing the plates you allow for a bit more airflow.
So if all you're doing here is removing the pegs, why not just twist them off with needle-nose pliers? What's the benefit of also taking out the plate that they are attached to?
Since the PVC is flexible, you can widen the slot enough to get sand paper/Dremal in there to sand the burs down. A square barrel may help with friction (somewhat), but I can say that with the PVC one, the ranges are around 70ft flat. (conservative estimate)
I could see how that'd be an issue - unless you can sand the inside of the slots, they'll have burrs that stick out. I was planning on building a square barrel, as you've done previously, which would alleviate that particular issue.
Since your "barrel" has slots cut for the bow string, your dart is going to encounter disastrous energy losses that make this mechanism much less efficient than a pneumatic.
I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say that the slots make the bow inefficient. Do you mean that the dart gets stuck/creats friction along the slots?
Also, I decided to go green, and used a bow drill for all the holes.
This blaster is a continuation of my direct propulsion series, which started with the cardboard pistol, and the DP pistol. I don’t really think that I can call this a gun, as it is quite literally, a crossbow. Now don’t you wish your middle name is Archer? (like mine)
I made this bow solely for testing the range capabilities of direct propulsion blasters.
Being a prototype, this bow is neither pretty nor clean, and I don’t really care. : )
˝” thick cutting board
1/8” thick Polycarbonate
A few random screws
A small spring
*I made the bow out of a straight branch found on a tree in my backyard. You could use ˝”CPVC, if you are totally lame. Let your inner caveman shine, and use real wood!
Drill + bits
Dremal + bits
Band saw or scroll saw (you could use a hand saw…I guess)
Time to start. (Note: Before you cut, make sure your PVC is not bowed...)
First, cut a 16” long section of your ˝” PVC:
Now, cut a 1/8” wide slot on either side, leaving about an inch of PVC at each end:
(I would say that cut is straight as an arrow…)
Drill a 3/8” hole on one end, perpendicular to the slots:
On the other side, drill a tiny hole (1/8”), and cut a ˝” by 1 ˝” slot:
The holes should line up:
Next, make two of these: (MAKE SURE TO DRILL ALL THE HOLES PICTURED)
They need to be opposed to each other, like this:
Cut a ˝” by 1/2” by Ľ” piece of cutting board:
Bevel the top:
Drill a hole through the side:
Stick a nail through the piece pictured:
Add the cutting board chunk that you just made:
Make the catch:
A better picture:
You need to have a pole in the catch that sticks out 1/8” on both sides:
Attach the catch to the piece which has the cutting board chunk on it, as pictured:
Make the handle:
Tape on a spring like the one in the picture:
Now, screw the catch/cutting board chunk/side plate onto the handle:
The spring should line up with the notches in the trigger:
Screw it to the handle:
Attach the second side plate:
Drill a hole in the handle:
Screw the handle/catch to the pipe:
Add a small bow and you’re done!!!
Here it is cocked:
Close-up of the catch/string:
I am currently working on testing the ranges with different darts, and bow tensions.
I should have the data finished by Friday.
It's really just a problem with the size of the dart pusher. When you have more than two rubber bands, one or two will come off of one side when you fire the gun. The o-ring pieces keep the dart pusher from damaging the gun body.
In order to stop the dart pusher from flying into the front and damaging it, couldnt you have the opening at the back of the blaster instead of the front? you would still need to reinforce both sides, but the dart pusher would be hitting a solid part of the original material, instead of something cut and glued together.