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There have been 95 items by Darthrambo (Search limited from 05-February 94)
This is my first post, I wanted to make it something more helpfull but I can't get the barrel of my new Titan.
Please tell me how or link me to something that can
Then maybe I can post something helpful
The subject should be Titan barrel
You have the version of the titan that locks when screwed in.
See the slots in the base of where the barrel screws in? There are nubs in the barrel that lock into them. The amount you can turn the barrel is the length of those slots. As far as I know there isn't any good way of getting them out once they are in. Most people just end up breaking it out by force from what I can tell.
I guess if you could get to those 4 screws you could take it off without breaking it.
My phone was in an awkward position which made the firing a little wonky. If it looks a little awkward to fire that is why.
When I took this I had just got done fixing some stuff and still had a light spring in that I could pull back by hand while the blaster was open to test it out. This is just a little preview since some people expressed interest, I'll do a write up on here eventually http://nerfmodsandnews.blogspot.com/
I'll post up the important parts of the write up here too, it's just I'd have to reformat so much stuff to get the full version over here and have it look presentable.
I thought that ridge was like a buffer, to elimiate the need for plunger padding, yes it would extend the draw but it could shorten the life of the pt.
The ridge acts as a buffer because the O-ring hits the ridge instead of the plunger head. The way I have it I hear a thud rather than a crack when dry firing It shouldn't have much of an impact on the life of the tube from what I can tell
-Without the ARs the air can leave the tube faster thus using the full volume of the tube before the dart leaves the breech.
-The pre-load on the spring also increases the speed of the plunger rod thus allowing it use the full volume of the tube before the dart leave the breech.
Think about it like this, A longshot has a massive tube, but the dart tooth only pushes the dart into the barrel the same distance as any other CS blaster. By your logic the plunger tube size of the longshot is a waste because the dart would leave the breech before the the full volume of the tube was used.
No, it increases range without a sealed breech. I really don't know the physics behind it but the results are better ranges. I guess if you considers that the air is being delivered faster without the AR and because the spring now has more pre-load it can be explained that way.
Wouldn't you need to redo the breech for this to actually be effective? The dart would have left the stock barrel by the time the draw extension becomes useful. Good work on the mod though, for it seems like it would be useful for a breeched retaliator.
You can see where the plungerhead naturally rests stock in this pic, everything to the left of the black of the O-ring you can vaguely see is dead space.
This is what the plunger tube looks like after this mod
Step 1 Remove the plunger rod
If you pull the head out at an angle you don't need to remove the orange ring.
Grind down the grind down the ridge that prevents the plunger from moving all the way down the tube. It's where the plunger head is stopped in the first pic on the inside of the tube (no pic, anything I tried to take just looked all white)
Use a round utility bit
Slightly file down the front lip of the plunger head at an angle so that it feeds easily into the ridge you just ground down allowing the head to travel the full length of the tube.
Add some hot glue to the back of the plunger head so that the spring will push the whole length of the tube, and to add some pre-load
Note that there is very little room for the spring to compress into and still have the catch engage keep this in mind.
NOTE:I didn't bother to mention mods for the retaliators that I've seen write ups on even I did them a little differently. Also not that the pics are of a clear recon and so some of the way things are shown in the pics may be slightly different for a retaliator or rampage shell. (specifically the glue on the back of the head)
If you want to see the other mods or how to get the retaliator internals into a recon I have it posted here http://nerfmodsandnews.blogspot.com/
You're welcome to post the photos in the internals thread, as long as no one is forced to click through to your site just to see them.
So a post like this cool? http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=23066
I understand that you don't just want people coming in here and mucking things up with shameless promotion of their useless nerf blog. I just posted like that because I wasn't going to reformat or rewrite everything and I thought it was something that people might be interested in, that wasn't yet covered.
To clarify how SgNerf's threads are relevant to this discussion:
As far as I can tell, SgNerf does not typically link to his site when he posts a thread, he merely watermarks all of his images. He also posts the entirety of his writeup, rather than posting a teaser and then telling people to check out his site for more. That should be the standard for how you post on this site. Posting as you have here is considered plugging your site, which is covered in the Code of Conduct and New Members Guide. You're welcome to put a tasteful link or set of links in your signature as long as they aren't obnoxiously formatted, and if you reproduce the full content of an article here, you may link to the original at the end of the thread if you wish.
I see Where you are coming from and everything but this would require me to reformat everything just to put it up here. I thought people would like to see the content since as far as I could tell there were no pics of it anywhere. I won't bother doing it anymore if it bugs you guys. My bad.
I am pleasntly surprised at how much I like this thing. Good plunger tube size, nice strong spring, a trigger and a breech that doesn't rip apart the ammo. The internals in general are of a much higher quality than you'd expect if you saw how little was going on inside of xploderz.
The system is driven by a rack and half gear much like a vulcan or stampede.
The breech is actually the biggest and most impressive improvement. I was use to having xploderz shatter ammo as often as it would fire correctly. This system has not broken 1 ball yet. This is amazing to me for 2 reason; the breech is working perfectly, and because this also means that I haven't hit a ball that was already broken in the pre-grown ammo.
More on the E5000 at http://nerfmodsandnews.blogspot.com/
When SGNerf posts content and then links to his site, the original content is actually good and encourages me to check out his site.
If you want to imitate his success, you should probably add another picture that actually shows the "pyragon drum internal workings" as you purport. You could be talking about a condom manufacturing machine in the OP and I wouldn't know the difference.
II put up something That I felt some people would be interested in because to my knowledge pics of it do not yet exist. I'm not trying to imitate anyone's success just trying to share what I thought others might be curious about. I'm sorry if you feel That I wasted your time.
I'll just remove the post
In small amounts it's not dangerous but it is toxic and used in stuff like cleaning solutions and bleach.
The corrosion will come off pretty easy with a mix of equal parts vinegar and water. Try using that and if it still doesn't work sand the contacts and try again. If it still doesn't work try clipping the couple inches off the wires connected to the battery pack and reattaching them.
How did you manage to minimize the dart pusher assembly? Does it just cram into the back part of the pistol?
Made it a semi auto since the gear ratio of the stock mechanism made it so that no matter how much juice you pumped in it, it was still slow.
It looks like the issue with discs veering to the right with nitrons is actually caused by them bouncing off the left side of the barrel which probably causes a good bit of loss in range.
Without the loss of velocity from bouncing in the barrel the nitron might be able to get some impressive ranges with a volt mod.
I also tried weighted discs putting a thick bead of hot glue all the way around the inside of the disc. My theory was that the drag on the discs from air resistance was too much for the discs mass to take full advantage of added power. At 15v the nitron is getting far better ranges with the weighted discs. I can't measure now and probably wont ever take the time to do so.
The nitron is the only vortex that can weight discs around the inner ring do to the way ther torsion springs fling the discs using the inner ring.
Hey guys i recently got my hands on a classic ls and ironically i have dabbled with almost every blaster but it in the last few years so i have no experience with them. My question its besides an ar removal, spring replacement, reinforcement, and sg's version of the Angel breach what proven mods would be beneficial for a max rof high range hvz primary? Or would it be wiser to wait on the OMW immortal kit and if so would the performances be comparable?
For RoF I'm doing this one a LS. Might be something you want to consider http://www.nerfrevol...=3031&start=143
I think you misread the subtlety in my post - the discs have more mass, so they are less likely to be adversely effected by drag than darts. As you point out, the discs have a larger surface area to effect, but I think that their mass being double that of darts should cancel out the area differences. The point was that darts have less inertia and that they might slow down more significantly out of the barrel, accounting for the varied chrono-measurements.
Yeah, I worded that poorly. What I meant to convey was that the more velocity on the larger surface area the more air resistance. Because it's traveling faster it's traveling though more air per sec meaning that it is experiencing higher air resistance per sec and should this would cause a faster decrease in velocity. So you'd have to consider that along with the inertia. Just something to think about.
It should be taken into account that vortex discs are something like twice the mass of any war-legal dart, so I'd expect drag to have a more detrimental effect on the darts' velocity.
The extra mass means extra inertia and momentum meaning that air resistance would have less impact. The drag is caused by the profile surface area, not the mass. The thing is that the discs have a larger area effected by air resistance.
One thing I've wanted to try out for a while is to see how adding mass to discs would effect their performance in higher power blasters like a volt moded nitron. The extra mass would not only allow the discs to take more advantage of the increased muzzle velocity but would also make its more stable in wind, probably more stable than darts in many cases.
If you are worried about draining your battery I recomend picking up some 18650 size ultrafires. They are basically just AA ultrafires but bigger with the same voltage but longer life. They are actually cheaper than AAs and you can buy trays for them of ebay for cheap.
Because of the make up of these batteries they weigh almost the same as AAs too.
If you do cut off the front, where would you put the swarmfire?
Needler (paper model finished)
So after the paper model is done I coat in fiberglass resin then bondo to shape
The problem is that the needler doesn't fit the internals very well and the front end of the turret would be replace the top front part of the needler.
For the big baby the part of the internals that lets the rack gear slide back would probably stick out of the back of the dome a little bit.
So which one do you guys think I should do?
The reason I wanted to try this is because the linear velocity of the flywheel is in direct proportion to its diameter as long as the rpms are the same. This mean the bigger the flywheel the better the range and since most flywheels are only about 1in these 2.25in wheels along with much beefier motors result in great ranges.
You just have to wire one motor + to -, -to+ so it spins the opposite direction as the other.
I shot some with only 12v but these motors run at 9v stock so I should be able to safely run them at around 18-20v and either get even better ranges or have a blaster that turns darts in to confetti.
You can swap out the return spring with something lighter but that will make the return motion weaker and if its too weak it can make it so the friction of the arm on the next dart can jam it up.
Maybe try making sure everything is lubed up and possibly seeing of loosening the screw that holds the lever to the metal arm helps at all.
Removing the trigger lock might get rid of a little of the resistance too.
There was some wind and it was a rough measurement since I only had a 10ft tape and little patients.
This was done at ~12v(3 hot ultrafires) using stock buzzbee darts
This is about what I expected based on jerms fps for this blaster. The URB may have got 3rd place FPS but it was using 4.5v vs the PS48 and beltblast that use 6v. With equal power they are probably pretty even.
All in all pretty impressive for a blaster most consider to be worthless.
I can fire through a whole belt manually. So I think its a problem something like what darthrambo said in that the seal is being removed before the dart is launched. I'm not totally sure how to fix that though. I'll have to look into it when I get another chance to open up my Vulcan.
1-Strech the spring that pushes the nub out that holds the tube forward
2-Remove any lube that might have got on the nub and rough up the surface so that there is more friction so it doesn't slide off as easy
The mechanism that seals the tube to the belt isn't functioning properly. What can happen is the seal created from the front part of the tube being pushed forward onto the belt chamber can be lost due to the mechanism allowing the part to spring back before the round has fired. The mechanism is located behind the front part of the tube.
You can kinda mess with it by playing with the little flap that is under the tube by pulling it back and seeing if it stays in place. I know this is not a good description but hopefully you can figure out what I mean if you are looking at the internals.
Yeah I remember when I first did my double clipped T20A I tried looking for pics for the internals of this thing was like the first time the internet has failed me. I'll get on that.
Hey, as I recall there are no pictures online of the internals of this thing. Since you have taking it apart previously, would you be willing to take some pictures of it's internals? I'd love to see how the gun is automatic as well as a revolver. However if you don't, it's fine
The motor replacement doesn't require anything that would really need explaining. the housing just slides into the same slot as the ond one and the red wire goes to the red wire, black to black. I'll take a pic of it when I do the internals.
After messing around with voltage I had the first thing burn out. I'm kinda shocked to see that it was the first gear in the gear box. The reason this happened is because the bushing was too loose and this allowed the gear to grind. This happened at 14.8v but never happened on my "darthramballs" at the same voltage.
The gear boxes could be slightly different in different models. The one that had gear grinding has brown posts and the one that did not had black posts.
The reason why I'm doing this is because I think that this is a really under-rated blaster. It's small, full auto, 20 rounds and with a volt mod good ranges and great rate of fire.
-How to get the damn thing open
-Nerf dart comparability
Getting it open:
-The stock butt plate
This is the only thing glued on. If you are going to cut the stock off just make that the first thing you do and you wont have to deal with it.
If you want to keep it you can hold the piece in boiling water till the glue softens enough to pry it off but wedging a thin flat head into the crease.
-Motor housing rod
Be careful not to lose any of the pieces from this assembly. Nothing is going to shoot out or anything but all those little round pieces in there that and drop and roll away. Remove this first so you can separate and work on the front and back parts of the gun individually.
*when unscrewing there is 1 screw under the sticker on the here
When you get it open get rid of the orange thing, it's to keep kids from shoving their finger in there and actually can cause really bad misfires
There are several ways of doing this. The best way by far IMO is to just get 3 AA Li-Ion batteries like Ultrafires or Trustfires.
Other cheaper ways include;
-larger battery trays
-RC battery connectors
Range and RoF are both totally dependent on voltage.
If you want to use a large battery pack like RC batteries you might want to consider leaving the stock on and using it to hold the pack.
There is space for more batteries in the shell but be careful if you are moving the stock one, it has the switches for the flywheels and the pusher on its screw posts.
These things are meant to protect the motors from overheating. The longer the circuit is active the hotter they get. The hotter they get the more resistance they give to the circuit until it shuts down completely. these things seem to not give very much resistance until they totally shut down the blaster.
2 of them coming off the back of the battery tray.
The round one is for the flywheels, the square one is for the pusher.
For some reason the flywheel one has always totally killed that circuit before the pusher even seems to be effected at all.
Remove these are your own risk. A good way around them is to just install an on off switch that circumvents the thermistor.
The URB motor set up fits right into the slot in the T20A.
The URB beats the rayven in stock feet per sec, AND that is with the rayven running with 33% more power.
To install them all you need to do is clip this contact thing from the T20A motors and put them on the URB motors and slide them into place.
***If you do this because of the smaller diameter of the flywheels it will no long shoot buzzbee darts.
All you need to do is cut off the flat part on the end of this metal peg and you have yourself a swappable drum. That or if you are pretty strong you can just pull it with some pliers.
OK so believe it or not normal tommy 20 drums don't even need to be modded to be swappable. The only downside is those can't be manually advanced.
Nerf Dart compatibility:
Nerf darts are slightly longer than BB darts so you are going to need to chop off the wall between the darts and the wheels.
With the stock drum you can probably even get away with sanding down the wall if you really wanted to as long as you have the darts pushed all the way back.
With the tommy 20 drum you will have to cut it off, the darts sit farther up for some reason.
Putting 1 or 2 layers of etape around the flywheels will allow the blaster to fire streamlines
A few things:
1 When putting it back together if the main part of the shell doesn't want to close, pull the trigger to set it into position. When it's opened the mech that keep it from jamming between shots can get out of alignment pretty easy.
2 This blaster is completely dependent on the volt mod. Without it it's not worth messing with.
3 The gun torques from the drum turning. At higher voltages this can actually get so bad that it can cause some funky tail spin on the darts. To avoid this hold the blaster firmly.
4 Some people like to chop off the front "grip". The reason why I kinda like having it on is to get a better grip and stop the fore mentioned tail spin.