I would really like to see how you made this. That is, if you are not already working on a better system than this one.

I believe I have a saying when it comes to the kinds of darts you are using: "If you use a dart that can go through a soda can, I will hit you in the face with my fist." Not that I will ever see you in a war though, so you have nothing to worry about. Also, you should show that the gun can shoot 110 feet, as you say, instead of making lame gun porn and shooting a can.

Should be available from most pet stores, look in the aquarium section.

Great, thanks! I wouldn't have thought to even look at a pet store, but now I see.

Might I ask where I could find the check valve that you used in this design?

You have to keep in mind that it's likely that the only NC nerfers on Nerf Haven probably have established games that they attend often. Your best bet would be to find some willing friends and give it a shot.

I completely agree. I live in the fresno area and the members on here who I have tried to contact haven't responded. I have decided to make the most of a group of friends to play with instead of trying to find random people to play with.

I really don't see anything good here. Why would you use a dollar store sponge to make a seal on anything? Also, you should run your post through microsoft word before posting to check the spelling, just a suggestion.

Irish8 and CaliforniaPants are out from those parts. Try sending them a PM to set something up.

thanks for looking them up for me I am too lazy

Hello, this is to anyone on here from the Fresno/Hanford/Visalia/Porterville/Central Valley areas. I mostly just do HVZ but I am interested in trying just plain ole nerf for once. If anyone knows of any groups and/or organizers in the above mentioned areas please either leave a comment or PM me. If not, then I will try to swallow my pride and organize a game myself.

people don't understand that not everybody is a goddamn genius at NERF-related anything.

Ouch, that hurt my eyes to read. Learn to put together more cohesive sentences and then maybe you won't find yourself so frustrated with life.

"'BEAR with me'. 'Bare with me' means to "get NEEKED with me"
My friend told me a funny story about on an Estate Agents it said 'We are currently under construction, please bare with us" , so soon a load of naked people were lined outside the door - no, i made that bit up"

I understand the wiring and everything, but what is the purpose of doing this? Is it a step in making the Vulcan a sentry-gun? Will you be posting the arduino stuff soon?

You are right on the money. I am eventually going to make a write up for a vulcan sentry gun and I will refer to this post as the first step. If you go here you can see the code and stuff that I will be using. Not until I actually have the sentry gun working will I post the rest of this, which will be in a [EDIT]eternity or two.

Hello to all,

This write up is intended for anyone who wants to add in a power metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistor in parallel with the switch on a Vulcan. I did this to my Vulcan so that my arduino can control when it fires.

First things first, here is the standard wiring diagram for a Vulcan:



And here is the wiring diagram with the MOSFET added in:



When you crack open your gun, you are going to want to remove the trigger itself. Before that though, you want to bypass the trigger from the on/off switch straight to the motor:



Next, remove the trigger from the assembly. This is accomplished by unscrewing one or two screws (I can't remember which).

Your trigger PCB should look like this if the trigger switch is facing DOWN:



You want to solder the MOSFET on like so:



You can see how I used some of the unused space on the PCB in order to solder on the Gate pin.

After you soldered in the MOSFET you can easily add in the 10.0k Ohm resistor as seen in the above picture. After that's done, you can screw the PCB back in place.



The wires can be lengthened to accommodate for an external battery and the signal interface.



You can use a 4 pin connector to allow for easy gun interface. If you have any questions please leave a comment.

This may be a bit of a stupid question, but are you sure that all your connections are airtight?

Considering how much primer and pvc cement I used on each connection, I would be really surprised if it wasn't airtight. I even used a ton of teflon tape on the pvc couplers. I have already immersed the tank in water and pumped it up to see if there were any bubbles coming from any of the connections.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but you did actually try firing it right? It's not so big that it couldn't be full after 3 pumps from the right pump.

Yes I did try to fire it even after 15 or so pumps. There was still no pressure to speak of. I am still working on getting a smaller diameter pump integrated into the whole thing. Any thread suggestions on the matter would be appreciated.

The type of trigger valve you use makes no difference in the amount of pressure you can get in (I'd switch back to the solenoid if possible). Your problem is that your pump is too large in diameter to get to a higher PSI. Remember that PSI is pounds per square inch, so the amount of force needed to get to 40 PSI (a common nerf pressure) Is much less with a 5/8" inner diameter pump (ala AT2K) than with the 1"-1 1/2" diameter I'm guessing your foot pump is. Increesing the volume would work, but you would end up with a massive, unwieldy gun. Many dual-action bike pumps can reach awesome pressures with good efficiency, I'd go with one like that while keeping the tank size you have now.

Yeah, I think the valve wasn't the problem, it was probably the 8 dollar foot pump I bought from Target a couple of years ago. I haven't the slightest idea of how to incorporate a small pump directly into my setup, but any forum suggestions would help . I do have a small dual-action bike pump on my Schwinn though. I will try that tomorrow and see if that works. I still am considering adding a massive air tank onto this thing and just have the electronic trigger glued onto a back hand grip on the tank, that way the night finder can be a front gun .

I am trying to make a sort of nerf air cannon using pvc and a cheap chinese made solenoid valve. The first time I tried to pump it up, I could hardly push the foot pump at all only after like 3 pumps. I then replaced the solenoid valve with a ball valve, but I still couldn't get any pressure. Here is the link to the solenoid valve I bought. I am guessing that the volume of my pressure chamber is too small, but I would like this community's feedback before I try anything else.

Here is the current set up:

May I quote an equation for you? Let's go with the rotational speed of a DC motor, operating at a constant voltage.

Rotational speed is proportional to voltage applied. Current increases would reduce speed.

SCIENCE, BITCHES. RESPECT IT.

a.k.a. As an FNG, you should probably look things up before stating them as fact. Not to mention that:

a ) In attempting to explain Ohm's Law, you instead merely defined terms in it, voltage and current. Ohm's Law STATES that current is proportional to voltage, and inversely proportional to resistance.
b ) 8 AA batteries (on the assumption that they are alkaline) do make 12V. Thanks for telling us, dawg.
c ) In stating this opinion, you ignore all of the previous mods done before where upgrading the Voltage DOES increase the range, because it makes the DC motors rotate faster. Which also reduces torque, but we're flinging foam, so lowering the torque is largely irrelevant. We're not operating a car here.
d ) Your example of having a lead-acid battery the size of a minivan is completely nonsensical, considering the topic.

My my, aren't we touchy? I do concede that you are correct, sir. My apologies. I'm sure you spent a long time researching this in order to supplant a stinging retort. Well done.

I can definitely see an amperage boost here. How people think that increasing the voltage automatically increases the power is beyond me, though. 8 AA batteries in a series creates 12 volts, the same as your car battery. The important difference between the two is the amperage. You can have a lead-acid cell the size of a minivan, but, depending upon the stoichiometry involved, it will still only produce 12 volts. Just in case there are any disbelievers you can look up Ohm's law, which states that voltage=potential difference measured across the conductor, while amperage is a measure of the amount of electrons, or current.

Edit: I see your land mine and raise you an 80's robot with a Stampede arm.


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That is sweet! Does it chase you around while screaming "Danger! Will Robinson, Danger!"?

Just in case some REALLY wants to build this and they don't mind forking over some serious dough to radio shack, here is the bill of materials

Bill of Materials


If someone wants I can type up a procedure, though I doubt anyone wants to try to make this thing.

Fritzing might help you make better schematics in the future.
Are you just controlling the transistor directly from the PIR sensor, or are you using some sort of a microcontroller?

Since I am on a strict budget of no money whatsoever, I decided to forgo using a micro controller. Besides, you really don't need one as long as you only have one single bit output to worry about, and you only have one end result in mind for your invention.

I don't really get it. Probably because I just skimmed it.

But it has pictures. Therefore it must be true!

Could you explain more how the darts are propelled? I'm not quite understanding this part. I understand they are spring loaded or something, but I am not sure how the party popper part works.

Sure thing. The motor inside that pvc tube is turned on when the sensor senses someone. That motor then turns the base of a spring powered party popper, which then propels the darts outward 15-20 feet, depending on the angle. I got some of my inspiration for this design from HERE

Okay, before you tell me it's impossible here is how it all works:

1. The whole thing is in 2 parts, minus the battery; the shotgun, and the sensor and associated electronics.
2. It utilizes a PIR sensor (Passive Infrared) in order to detect when a person has stepped in front of it.
3. It also has a remote trigger function, allowing the user to time exactly when the whole thing fires.
4. It is all powered by a 12 volt, 7.2 amp/hour gel cell battery

I'm sorry but this is not a tutorial on how to build one, it is far too time consuming and costly to really be considered a feasible tactical advantage.

Alright then, so here is the schematic for the electronics. I am not really an expert in drawing these things, so feel free to point out any mistakes.



So here is the thing in action:



http://youtu.be/Q8atrwWokEQ

So here are some pictures of the internals and the shotgun and stuff: