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There have been 21 items by idleninja (Search limited from 08-June 93)
As therealnerfjunkies said, definitely get the Stryfe, maybe 2 of them. The Stryfe is one of the best Nerf guns out there for rapid-fire combat, HvZ, and indoor warfare. The Swarmfire is decent and definitely has potential if you mod it correctly but I do not like it's shell design. I don't think it is worth the 50 Euro price, especially when the only advantage it has over the Stryfe is being able to use non-streamline/elite darts...
I live in a country where we have a rather lack of a nerf choices, I am soon going to Europe and will buy a assortment of elite guns, the main problem with my current arsenal is i lack a fast firing primary, as I have a limited budget and am already picking up the alpha trooper is it necessary to forgo the rampage and buy the swarmfire? My main problem is im not sure the SF is worth the 50 Euro price? As this is my first post any advice, criticism etc. is welcomed.
Please do not see this as a which gun is best thread
I don't think you need to buy both the Alpha Trooper and the Rampage, they are essentially the same gun but with a different magazine orientation and priming mechanism. I would recommend getting the Retaliator for it's accessories, rather than the Rampage. Good luck!
Cutting the corner off of the front piece is very helpful, I did 481IceDragon's mod to make the turret drop out more and the turret dropped out unevenly. I cut the front part as you described and now the turret comes out level. Thanks for the guide, good luck with the mod contest!
The SwitchShot shell is really easy to paint, the internals all lift out in one piece. You can also salvage the rail/dart holder and put it on another gun.
Sweet mod, clear pictures are always nice. And it does have a super-clean prime.
This is pretty nice! I like the way you used the offset washer to solve the plungerhead problem. One question: Why did you re-post the dual SSPB mod guide?
Thanks! It looks bad when you pull it out, but it's perfectly aligned for the new PT.
I reposted the SSPB guide so that you can find everything I did to my ClipTek in one thread.
1/2 CPVC coupler x1
4 inches of 1/2 CPVC
Epoxy/ShoeGoo/Other strong glue
Needle Nose Pliers
Hacksaw/anything that can make a straight cut
I finished one half of the shell before I started documenting, but it should be pretty easy to figure out how to cut the other half of the shell.
First, cut your 1/2 CPVC coupler in half. You will put one half of the coupler onto each SSPB.
SSPB preparation (Do this twice):
Unscrew your SSPB and take out the orange part. Keep the shell to practice painting with.
Twist off the dart peg with some needle nose pliers, then shove a bit of damp paper towel down the barrel to prevent dust from getting inside the valve. (Thanks iamthatcat)
Now cut like so (to the back of the decorative hole thing in the middle)
Cut the barrel of the SSPB again so that it is flush with the center ring right by the valve. Don't take the paper towel out like I did (see picture).
Trim the middle part of the SSPB down so that you can fit a half of the coupler onto your SSPB.
You are now done preparing 1 SSPB. REMEMBER TO DO THIS TWICE!
Unscrew the 4 screws holding the yellow handle together and take that off.
Now unscrew the rest of the screws holding it together. Take the fake barrel out, it just gets in the way.
Take half of the shell and mark a line along and on top of the ridge closest to the trigger (see pictures).
Flip the shell over and remove the screw post on the inside.
Cut along the marked line.
Flip the shell over again and clean out the insides. Make sure you keep the wall that is circled.
Now do the same thing to the other half of the shell.
Putting it all together:
Test fit your SSPB, making sure that it sits snugly against the two circled walls.
Trim your shell so the coupler fits. This is what mine wound up looking like, yours may fit differently.
Now its time to glue! I used ShoeGoo, but epoxy or any other strong bonding material will do.
Liberally apply your glue to anywhere your SSPB will be making contact with the shell. Place your SSPB inside the shell and press firmly so that it rests against the two walls circled earlier.
Put a little glue behind the circled wall for reinforcement. Epoxy putty wouldn't hurt either.
Let dry overnight.
You now have 2 SSPB's integrated into a shellfed springer.
Thanks for reading! Questions, Comments, Flames?
*READ THIS FIRST*
Think of this as a jumping off point instead of a definitive way to mod this gun. I got my results through trial and error, and took pictures along the way. You can probably find a better and much more efficient way to mod your ClipTek.
This writeup involves replacing the stock plunger tube (PT) with an AT3K pump head and shaft.
Parts needed if you want to copy my mod:
AT3K Pump + Shaft
Scrap bit (1 inch or so) of PVC or CPVC
Sandpaper/Dremel sanding bit
Solvent weld or strong epoxy
Open up your ClipTek and take out the plunger rod + tube (PT will have that little yellow thingy on the end of it)
I modded mine (the wrong way) by breaking the yellow piece off of the stock PT. (Ignore NUUN tube)
Now you are going to need to clean out the area where the original PT was. Start with this curved part. Do this on both sides of the shell.
Now this ridge here is tricky. What I did was drill 2 holes, one at each end of the ridge, and connected them, then pulled out any leftovers with pliers. Do this on both sides of the shell.
Now that this area is cleaned out, start fitting your replacement PT. I was originally going to use a NUUN tube, but do the same with whatever you are using as a PT. You will need approximately 3" of PT.
Once your PT fits, figure out where to drill a hole in the bottom. I put the yellow piece back in the shell and marked where it met with the NUUN tube.
I then glued the yellow bit to the back of the NUUN tube.
Trim this wall here so that the yellow piece fits properly.
Now here's a problem: the stock plunger rod doesn't line up with the new plunger tube.
My solution was to buy a neoprene washer with a slightly larger I/D (not O/D) than normal and screw it in off-center. There are easier ways to fix this.
You could stop here if you wanted to. With the stock spring, terribad seal, and no lube, it got same as stock ranges (35-45 feet level). If you replaced the spring, got a proper seal, and lubed it up, you would probably be able to get 55-60 feet.
I had an AT3K pump lying around and decided to use that since it gets a good seal.
Cut 3" off the tube the pipe goes in, keep the bottom for the check valve. Test fit it in the shell like earlier.
Now take your pump and chop off the top part like so.
I cut the very bottom of the NUUN tube off with the yellow bit still glued on, then glued the disc onto the end of the 3K pump shaft.
Make sure your newly glued PT fits inside the ClipTek shell. This next part will solve the off-center plunger rod problem described earlier.
Re-read this part a couple times, I will try to word it properly.
Fill the cutoff 3K pumphead with epoxy or ShoeGoo so that it's slightly overflowing.
Put a scrap piece (inch or so) of PVC or CPVC in the PT. Take your glue-filled 3K pumphead, manuever it into the PT without making a gluey mess, then put the PT back in the ClipTek. Now take your stock plunger rod and align it with the rails on the ClipTek. Push it inside the PT so that it is lined up with the 3K pumphead. The PVC is there so the plunger rod can firmly attach to the 3K pumphead. Press and hold for a couple of minutes. Pic will help explain.
This should be the final result. Notice how it's off-center so it will fit in the new PT.
I am not sure if solvent weld is stronger than ShoeGoo/epoxy. Use whichever is stronger/whatever you have on hand.
You might have to sand down the tracks on the yellow priming handle since they might bump into the new PT.
Now for ranges. 44-52 feet level with the stock spring. That's a definite improvement over 35-45 feet, almost 10 feet. Definitely could break 60' with a stronger spring.
I had a lot of fun working on this, hopefully somebody gets inspired and does this 10 times better than how I did it.
-You can make a shell catcher by arranging a bunch of cardboard cutouts in a box shape, gluing them together, then gluing that to the right side of the shell.
-1" PETG (the Petco stuff) would also work well as a PT replacement.
-This writeup assumes your PT replacement has a solid end (like the stock PT). If it doesn't then cut 1 inch off the stock PT with the yellow piece attached, then wrap it in E-tape or something. This is so you'll be able to redirect air from your PT into the bolt.
-Alternatively you could scrap the stock PT/yellow piece and run a bit of tubing from the end of your PT to this point here on the bolt.
-You could also hookup an airtank quite easily to said ^^^ spot.
I have this, the RFR and the Hunter, and I think the ClipTek has the most potential because the air from the plunger flows directly to the bolt instead of going through a bunch of tubes. Not sure why everyone always hates on the ClipTek.
I always assumed that it was the typical, crappy Buzz Bee clip blaster, but I see the plunger tube is much closer to the shells than it is in the Rapid Fire Tek or Hawk. This might actually have potential.
This is an excellent idea. May I suggest putting a bolt through both pumps to save time?
Thanks and thanks! I am planning to connect the pumps together once I finish modding the plungertube portion of the gun (is gun the correct term or do I call it a blaster?). It isn't hard to pump the SSPB's up with barrels attached at all, and I have pretty big hands. I just put my index and middle finger on each pump when I pump them.
This is pretty cool! Most of the time people just integrate one of these. Just one question: Is pumping the SSPB's difficult when the barrels are inserted. Also, I agree with
Britnerf, you should put something to connect the pumps. It would make pumping them much easier. Especially with the barrels in the way.
I was going to use a NUUN tube for a PT replacement, but the I/D (1-1/16) doesn't match up well with any neoprene washers I could find (this ^^^ picture is with the stock seal) and there are alignment issues that I need to solve. Unlubed and with a too-small neoprene washer for a seal it was getting about the same ranges as stock, 35-45 feet level. I will either replace the NUUN tube with an AT3K pump+head, or cut the shell so that an upside-down NF will fit.
For anyone who wants to mod this blaster, this green hole here is what connects the plunger tube to the bolt, and through the bolt to the shells. You could conceivably connect ANYTHING that pushes air to this hole here with tubing. If you were to hookup a 4B or something similar you could have a really powerful shellfed gun.
I will make a new thread (with writeup) once I finish replacing the plungertube. (Which might not happen until school finishes)
Thanks again all!
Resized, sorry about that.
You might want to resize your images. Tinypic has an option to resize pictures to 1024x768 or 800x600 when you upload.
I thought NH had an automatic resize thing but yeah those were too big.
Pretty sweet dude! If you get the main gun working better, this could be a fun, although not useful, primary!
That's why I said there's a part 2 coming
BAM! And there's even enough room for extra darts!
Blurry pic of trigger (Screw stuck into button/trigger):
If only it weren't upside down... Make sure you sand the outside of the case wherever you make any cuts, sharp metal edges are no fun.
Taken from Hasbro's facebook page, their 'official statement'.
"While a local Hasbro Australia marketing team did reach out to the Urban Taggers website to engage in promotional activity for which it required its address, it was completely unrelated to the confidential global investigation being conducted on Hasbro’s behalf by independent investigators looking into sources of leaked IP information."
Bull Hasbro. If there really were a global investigation going on you would have been able to get his house address from his IP. Just a coincidence you decide to contact him with lawyers the same time he sends you his address.
Notice in the statement they don't deny that one of the reasons they reached out to him was to obtain his address. How underhanded.
No more "NERF" guns for me this year...
How strong is the connection of the pump to the original gun? It seems as if it would be pretty easy to accidently hit it on something(or someone), and the pump would crack off.
I was thinking the same thing, so I built the pump INTO the handle, then ran a tube from the pump into the SSPB:
The pump is from a SuperSoaker Max-D 3000 2-pack from target. The pump handle fits perfectly into 1/2" PVC, didn't even have to glue it in.
Recon stock piece, 9V battery mod, E-taped flywheels for streamline compatibility.
No Raider's were harmed in the making of this product.
EFF THAT RAIDER DRUM TIME!
Felt so awesome I had to flip you guys off. Or my hand cramped from working on it so long.
3day or will 1day epox be ok?
meanwhile I just asked someone on facebook these same questions and he says reinforcement would only delay the destruction. What are your opinions on that?
Meanwhile, I have a somewhat retarded question but I haven't been able to find satisfactory answers to it anywhere: what other large spring powered nerf guns exist that have a normal plunger system like the Longshot does?
1 day epox should be fine, but let it cure longer than 24 hours just to be safe.
Nerf guns are made of plastic, they will break eventually. Definitely reinforce it. Because if you DON'T reinforce it it will break, especially if you do any mods to your AT.
The Big Bad Bow is another spring-powered Nerf gun with a normal plunger setup. When modded correctly it can get 80' singled.
This writeup will show you how to make your classic marshmallow shooter Nerf compatible. SPV999 here on NerfHaven already posted a writeup http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=17344 . Please refer to his thread if you need an explanation on how this blaster works. I saw his writeup, but it didn't keep the vacuum loading of darts, which is the coolest part of the gun. This writeup will let you keep the vacuum loading.
I would not recommend buying this for any serious nerfing.
All pictures are post-mod but it should be pretty easy to follow.
1x Classic Shooterhttp://www.marshmall...cchk=1&Itemid=1
- Hot Glue Gun
- 1/2" Drill bit. It has the width of a nerf streamline.
- Electrical Tape
- Barrel material
Here is the gun stock. (Minus the RSCB)
First, take these two pieces out of the gun.
Take the back piece and widen the hole so stefans and streamlines can fit through. You are now done with this piece.
The front piece, this is the tricky part.
This flap opens and closes, which makes the vacuum loading of darts possible. You have to widen the hole without breaking this flap. Drill from the front while holding the piece "upside-down" so the flap stays open.
You now have to seal these holes so air will flow out the barrel and not out these holes. The holes are only at the top of the barrel piece. I just took some thin pieces of FBR, wrapped them around the holes, and hot glued over them. Make sure to not let any glue into the holes, which will block the door from opening and closing fully.
Wrap this in E-tape for a better seal.
You can now add a barrel, I used about 3 inches of 1/2" CPVC in a CPVC coupler. I took a streamline and put it through the front piece to center the barrel while I glued it on.
Ranges: This is a pump gun, like the Reactor, so ranges will vary. Streamlines work better than stefans in this gun.
1 streamline I shot went around 80', which was awesome, but it mostly shotguns 2 at a time around 40 feet. My HomeDepot stefans go about 15 feet, with 3-4 being shot at a time. This gun works much better indoors and its not very accurate, but its lots of fun.
Questions, Comments, Flames?