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There have been 174 items by PissBacon (Search limited from 23-July 94)
Don't ignore this; this is very close to what is sought (actually, the idea of actionball is as close as it gets without being nerf). These seem to be properly weighted considering they're fired from paintball guns. There are still a few things to account for, such as the potential difference in barrel size, and the poor aerodynamics at low speeds (price is also quite high).
Actionball has foam balls used in paintball guns available. About $0.50 per ball though. I've seem them, they are pretty soft. Never felt one shot from a paintball gun though.
For homemade balls, that can be weighted easily, why not try crayola Model Magic foam? I've seen unweighted ones used in the same situations as Actionball. They are used in spring guns.
I'm not talking about balls, im talking about short FBR chunks.
If you think spheres aren't aerodynamic at low velocity, have a look at short FBR cylinders; I'm not even sure how much worse that option is.
Personally, I'm pretty interested in rifling a barrel for some ball-type ammo to stabilize shots, and just for the sake of nerf modding.
Though the current state of nerf will stay, if this grows successful I can imagine an increased gravitation towards paintballing, since anything we create will just be struggling to emulate the design and performance of professionally engineered paintball guns.
From what I gather, silencers silence by allowing the escaping gas to slow down before exiting the barrel. The larger the volume, the quieter the noise will be, to a point where the size would make no noticeable difference. Making more holes is only compensating for a silencer which is not adequately sized. While holes may help quiet things down, they're really just allowing the noise to dissapate from a variety of angles and places instead of being focused in one place (you may not have dremeled the same amount or size of holes on all the silencers, accounting for the results favoring one over another). If you google the word 'silencer' you don't see holes in any real silencers. Considering there is a great deal more air volume to be dealt with in a nerf gun than in a real firearm, a working silencer will have to be possibly awkwardly large. To compensate for the greater volume, you could try using wider diameters of pipe or longer lengths.
It's tough enough to make a breech barrel, this one is impressively compact as the barrel slides instead of an arm for loading; getting it smaller that would be near impossible.
Mmmm maybe..You could make the breech smaller...and the barrel.
I really might have to look into this for a different version of my 4B. It's so much surdier than a coathanger and weld epoxy on brass. Nice work.
Point the gun so that the barrel is facing you.
Interesting instructions. Might you need a disclaimer?
That site isn't very informative, and I couldn't even get registration to work. Could you tell me anything about the product? I've been looking for something to substitute JB Weld epoxy and this could be the answer.
Works for everything.
I haven't tested ranges yet, I'm letting the epoxy and epoxy putty fully cure first before firing (I've loaded darts to test the breech, but removed them manually).
What Illadar and Suave have said pretty much cover the action of the barrel if my explanation is confusing. Since the plastic parts I cut (sch 80 pvc, trimmed original barrel, reciever) fit together well, it makes for a sturdy gun with no sagging like many barrels I see.
Boltsniper, I don't know where I'd find the bandwidth/hosting for a clip of the gun in action.
When time permits, I will create a writeup, just very busy now.
Click This For Fullsize
Here's my take on the reissue of the big bad bow. Unfortunately, I haven't had access to a decent digital camera for a while, but I promise to have good photos up very soon. If there is enough interest I will bother to create a writeup. Flat grey paintjob by the way (if you can't bear the photos).
The breech is simply 17/32" brass within a special cut piece of 9/16" brass. The beauty of this breech is that it does not waste barrel lineage, as the breech slides back over the dart, creating an excellent, clean seal (which requires no shell). It's lubricated with silicon (silicone? wish I understood the difference) lubricant to ensure smooth loading. I may as well mention the barrel briefly now. After browsing for a recommended barrel type for the bbb, I ran into cxwq's suggestion, and stuck with it: 2" of 17/32" at the start nested in 6" of 9/16", all inside of 10" of 19/32". My setup gives the effect of these measurements, though not built quite the same. The breech slider offers that first 2", the breech piece gives the 4" in its size, and then the last 4" is covered by 19/32". What you see in the photos is some sch 80 pvc to protect the fragile brass assembly. At the very beginning of the barrel, there is a piece of dental floss taught tight across the diameter of the barrel, which is crucial to the functioning of my breech system (explained later).
This clip (8 dart capacity) is actually made from a normal tape/cassette case with one end dremeled off. I've had the most luck with "Scotch High Position XSII-S 100 IEC Type II" tape cases since they have the least amount of excess crap on the inside to sand down. After dremeling away at the case and adding some nice black masking tape, I ended up with a perfect clip. Since this is a gravity system, the top dart is actually filled with weights evenly inside to press down on the other darts, and is not a fireable dart. In the photo there is a rubberband over the clip to prevent the darts from rolling out of the open end. This clip can be easily made, and with some velcro, many clips can be easily carried.
I had a bit of fun making this piece, which accepts the clip. It's a cut piece of plexiglass which I then heated with a candle along certain points, and bent, to form the shape you see. I marked the bend points ahead of time in sharpie to know where to heat and form right angles. If you decide to do this, make sure you have acrylic plexiglass and not polycarbonate, since polycarbonate is not a thermal plastic (will just make a big mess if you put it to the fire).
Parts I haven't explained yet
Once I take good photos, I'll be sure to have some detailed internal shots. The way the breech actually works is linked to the 'trigger' half of the gun. There is a length of coathanger (use musicwire in the future) which I carefully bent in several ways, which attaches to the trigger half, and slides along one side of the plunger assembly and out through one side of the gun. This piece is then attached to the sliding breech piece on one side (out of the way of darts), therefore making the breech move when the bbb is cocked. When the two parts are pushed together, the breech opens and a dart drops in; when pulled apart, the slider slips over the dart (which is held in place by the dental floss bit previously mentioned), and is ready to be fired.
Questions welcomed (I've left plenty out).
To make an accurate formula you would need to incorporate gravity's negative acceleration, quantify friction the dart suffers, and figure out the force the dart is projected with (muzzle velocity x dart weight). This is to make a simple formula too, a more accurate one has to include other factors like windspeed and imperfect darts.
There may be some formulas I am unaware of that can approximately model what I'm discussing, but I haven't taken any physics classes yet so I wouldn't know.
http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=3223 (esp. cranky monky's post)
After thinking this out further, I realized you can calculate how long it will take the dart to fall if fired level from, say, 5 feet off the ground. Then use the muzzle velocity to calculate how far it would travel in that timeframe. That would be a rough estimate, but it would ingore resistence on that muzzle velocity as it travels through the air
I don't have a firefly, so I don't know what voltage the batteries are wired to produce. Taking a look at laser pointers, I usually see the 2AAA kinds, and the 3 button-cell kinds. the 2AAA are wired in series, producing a total of around 3 volts, and the triple button kinds probably use LR44's in series, producing 4.5 volts. If you have a volt/multi-meter you can check the output of the batteries so you'll know what kind of laser pointer to use. Also, isnt the firefly wired to just 'flash' instead of maintain light? You will have to mod this too; again I don't have a firefly to offer wiring help.
EDIT: Some more detailed specifics about this car: 0-60 in under 4 seconds, over 50 mpg, 200 horse turbo diesel and 200 horse electrics. The batteries are intended mostly for acceleration, so the diesel runs during normal use
My current ride isn't so bad; how do those of you in highschool get your parents to buy you cars? It's the same thing with my friends, they all get cars for birthdays or after getting a license, but I can't afford a car or the insurance.
In general, the Venice revision of AMD processors are ideal, though if you aren't overclocking it doesn't matter too much.
Speaking of processor cores I earlier said I was upgrading to a AMD 4000+. Ayone know what the differences are between ones like Newcastle, Clawhammer, San Diego, Venice, Barton and which ones are better?
hers what i got XPS
Too bad Dell sells overpriced computers, like any other retailer.
Does anyone have a shuttle pc or similar form factor?
Slaya, that is just a modified windows shell. The shell is the gui part of windows, so really the start menu and all you see is easily substituted for something much cleaner. I've also chosen to not have icons clutter my desktop; the bar at the top has more than enough functionality. Currently I'm running the litestep shell using a nonstep theme, but there are tons of different shells and skins available. Be careful what you install though, some of the shells/skins have memory leaks (shivers).
I'd like to add it was only in the past few months I bought my computer; I tend to be thrifty and wait until parts are reasonably priced, instead of spending $700 on an effing graphics card.
BFG VNF4 nfofo s.939 (Don't buy this board)
OCZ modstream 520w
Gigabyte Nvidia 6600GT
PQi 1 GB ultra-low latency
Seagate Barracuda 120GB SATA
HP DVD640I (litescribe capable)
Zalman VF700-Cu and CNPS9500 LED (used to be CNPS 7700-Cu)
Antec P180 (original fans and ducts stripped)
3 x Nexus 120mm (manual voltage)
Hyundai Imagequest L90D+ 19''
No tacky lights, stickers, windows; just silence.
EDIT: This is my desktop for anyone who cares (click on image for fullsize).
To make sure a barrel is straight, the method will really depend on what gun you are modding. For something like a blast bazooka with a long barrel, you can use a pendulum. Get a right angle to mark a line along the barrel stub; this will be a reference point, so it is important the line be straight so the barrel will be too. While the barrel/stub of the gun is facing the ground, attach the pendulum (probably tape) so that it runs along the marked line, physically touching it. I'm lucky enough to have a vice in my room, but use whatever is convenient to hold the gun in place while doing this alignment. To make sure it's lined up both left-right and foreward-backward, you need to see both if the string lines up with the line and if the string is parallel to the barrel stub.
The black lines are the gun, orange is the barrel/stub and pink is the pendulum.
Perspective is you looking at the gun while its stub points towards the ground.
Good ------------------- Bad --------------- Bad
Using paint images: just goes to show how inarticulate I am.
It really depends on the gun; on some guns you can use decorations that go across the gun lengthwise that are clearly parallel to the barrel instead of using a right angle. After you have the pendulum where you want it, just put the barrel in the stub, making sure it lines up with the pendulum, and glue.
Forums are great but people need to realize that just because someone owns a Nerf gun they're not going to automatically be participants on that forum community. With all due respect to the tire iron crowd, they've been around longer so they've gotten grumpier with seeing the same questions over and over again, and the same posts over and over again. The problem is when they express that grumpiness they turn off newcomers.
I don't necessarily agree with either side of the argument about 'n00bz', but it certainly leads to a lot of hard feelings ('tire iron').
Interesting; I too was planning a clip mod for the bbb due to its sliding action.
That's fookin' great! I'm already planning some sort of a clip mod on it, so I'll need at least one. The only thing that sucks is the $25 price tag. And that air restrictor doesn't sound too friendly...Nonetheless, it's definitely worth it. Hopefully it will reach Minnesota soon. (I still haven't seen an FF) Thanks for the good news!
Sort of on a tangent; someone mentioned the ompa clip, so I searched for it, and couldn't believe my eyes. It was essentially the same design I recently posted, and I never realized it had already been invented. The only real difference was that I used an expensive maglite instead of a piece of pipe like I should have.
This probably reveals my plans for a bbb anyway, with the sliding action and all.
With the two extra pumps is it really tough to pump, or does it just have reasonable resistance? Also, I'm not sure how you've attached the two other pumps to the gun, but I would wonder if it is sturdy enough without tons of fastening to withstand the extra force of 3 pumps being used.