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#70567 Archery

Posted by PissBacon on 07 January 2006 - 02:42 AM in Off Topic

I've got a nice 45 recurve I bought a few years back, but I can't seem to find targets anywhere for my backyard. Does anyone know where to find/make targets for not much money (haybales rot, so they aren't really an option for me)?



#70566 Please Read: Spherical Ammo.

Posted by PissBacon on 07 January 2006 - 01:14 AM in General Nerf

Actionball has foam balls used in paintball guns available.  About $0.50 per ball though.  I've seem them, they are pretty soft.  Never felt one shot from a paintball gun though.

For homemade balls, that can be weighted easily, why not try crayola Model Magic foam?  I've seen unweighted ones used in the same situations as Actionball.  They are used in spring guns.

Adam

Don't ignore this; this is very close to what is sought (actually, the idea of actionball is as close as it gets without being nerf). These seem to be properly weighted considering they're fired from paintball guns. There are still a few things to account for, such as the potential difference in barrel size, and the poor aerodynamics at low speeds (price is also quite high).

I'm not talking about balls, im talking about short FBR chunks.


If you think spheres aren't aerodynamic at low velocity, have a look at short FBR cylinders; I'm not even sure how much worse that option is.

Personally, I'm pretty interested in rifling a barrel for some ball-type ammo to stabilize shots, and just for the sake of nerf modding.

Though the current state of nerf will stay, if this grows successful I can imagine an increased gravitation towards paintballing, since anything we create will just be struggling to emulate the design and performance of professionally engineered paintball guns.



#70183 Dremel

Posted by PissBacon on 31 December 2005 - 02:59 AM in General Nerf

You might also like to use the cylindrical cutter (made of metal) for cutting parts of the shell of some nerf, as well as for working on restrictors depending on what feels comfortable. In general the disc cutter is your best friend though. In case you don't know this, never ever use the metal bits on metal parts, use the disk or sand parts on metal.



#69298 Secret Shot

Posted by PissBacon on 15 December 2005 - 08:40 PM in Modifications

Gordon, you're right on the spot with this. The only thing I don't agree with is what you say about 3 barrel mods. I'm not positive, but it sounds like you think it's not possible to make one; I own the gun and know I could do it (my ss case is brutalized though, so I'm not troubling to mod it anymore).



#68974 Question About The Far

Posted by PissBacon on 10 December 2005 - 03:17 AM in Homemades

Shouldn't you just buy airsoft guns? I'm sure they sell ones that look similar to the FAR anyway, and there's no way it's easier to make one than buy one.



#68925 Silencer Report

Posted by PissBacon on 09 December 2005 - 01:48 AM in Darts and Barrels

Ok. I couldn't tell from the photos/description if the holes were on the outside, and for some reason I assumed they were. What really matters are the results, not the theory, so if it works for you, great.



#68910 Silencer Report

Posted by PissBacon on 08 December 2005 - 06:31 PM in Darts and Barrels

I'm not speaking from experience, so call me out if you must.

From what I gather, silencers silence by allowing the escaping gas to slow down before exiting the barrel. The larger the volume, the quieter the noise will be, to a point where the size would make no noticeable difference. Making more holes is only compensating for a silencer which is not adequately sized. While holes may help quiet things down, they're really just allowing the noise to dissapate from a variety of angles and places instead of being focused in one place (you may not have dremeled the same amount or size of holes on all the silencers, accounting for the results favoring one over another). If you google the word 'silencer' you don't see holes in any real silencers. Considering there is a great deal more air volume to be dealt with in a nerf gun than in a real firearm, a working silencer will have to be possibly awkwardly large. To compensate for the greater volume, you could try using wider diameters of pipe or longer lengths.



#68722 Shotgun Dart

Posted by PissBacon on 03 December 2005 - 04:02 AM in Homemades

I still believe stock foam is plain better if it fits properly. The characteristics of the cells cause greater air retention, resulting in greater muzzle velocity and less air resistance. Although, I wouldn't say they're only loser (sic) darts, they are the only kind I use in my clip modded guns since they are reliably uniform and perform well.



#68721 Pump-action Clip Writeup

Posted by PissBacon on 03 December 2005 - 03:51 AM in Homemades

Mmmm maybe..You could make the breech smaller...and the barrel.

It's tough enough to make a breech barrel, this one is impressively compact as the barrel slides instead of an arm for loading; getting it smaller that would be near impossible.

I really might have to look into this for a different version of my 4B. It's so much surdier than a coathanger and weld epoxy on brass. Nice work.

P.S.

Point the gun so that the barrel is facing you.


Interesting instructions. Might you need a disclaimer?



#68645 Special Ammunition

Posted by PissBacon on 30 November 2005 - 08:43 PM in General Nerf

What about Lanard Blast Bazooka ammunition?



#68609 Strongest Adhesive

Posted by PissBacon on 30 November 2005 - 02:41 AM in Modifications

www.coolchem.com

Works for everything.

That site isn't very informative, and I couldn't even get registration to work. Could you tell me anything about the product? I've been looking for something to substitute JB Weld epoxy and this could be the answer.



#67047 Am I The Only One?

Posted by PissBacon on 03 November 2005 - 02:20 AM in General Nerf

Ace, I see what you mean about a nerf gun's limited ability, but I don't know why you believe the FAR to be a solution. No offense to boltsniper, but a nerf like a petg at3k is more able than the FAR; it's lighter weight, less cumbersome, can get farther ranges, and still has a great rof. The far is more 'milism-y' in appearance, but there are more capable (and more accessible) nerf guns out there.



#66388 4b - The Bacon Bow (semi-automatic Bbb)

Posted by PissBacon on 23 October 2005 - 11:23 AM in Modifications

Wouldn't it be more bolt-action than semi-auto?

You're absolutely right though.



#66374 4b - The Bacon Bow (semi-automatic Bbb)

Posted by PissBacon on 23 October 2005 - 12:09 AM in Modifications

After all the redesigning (I probably layed-out and scrapped 10 approaches), the coat hanger was the best, but attaching was probably the toughest part to figure out. After racking my brain for a way for it to not be on the inside (and block the entering dart), or take up too much space on the outside (mess with gravity feed and slide action), I arrived at using JB Weld epoxy. I carefully masked areas around where I would attach and sanded down the brass really well. Several coats were applied to ensure strength.



#66196 Paper Darts?

Posted by PissBacon on 20 October 2005 - 09:14 PM in General Nerf

I've made paper darts before, though I wouldn't dream of shooting people with them. They were just a section of a circle cut out and rolled into a cone, taped and weighted. Pretty crazy ranges when I added a tail to them (bic pen ink part jammed in).



#65730 4b - The Bacon Bow (semi-automatic Bbb)

Posted by PissBacon on 13 October 2005 - 09:57 PM in Modifications

I've updated the first photo of the 4b to be a bit clearer. Lately I'm very busy with highschool, and my computer's crapping out on me when I need it the most; this will be brief.

I haven't tested ranges yet, I'm letting the epoxy and epoxy putty fully cure first before firing (I've loaded darts to test the breech, but removed them manually).

What Illadar and Suave have said pretty much cover the action of the barrel if my explanation is confusing. Since the plastic parts I cut (sch 80 pvc, trimmed original barrel, reciever) fit together well, it makes for a sturdy gun with no sagging like many barrels I see.

Boltsniper, I don't know where I'd find the bandwidth/hosting for a clip of the gun in action.

When time permits, I will create a writeup, just very busy now.



#65681 4b - The Bacon Bow (semi-automatic Bbb)

Posted by PissBacon on 13 October 2005 - 02:19 AM in Modifications

Posted Image
Click This For Fullsize

Here's my take on the reissue of the big bad bow. Unfortunately, I haven't had access to a decent digital camera for a while, but I promise to have good photos up very soon. If there is enough interest I will bother to create a writeup. Flat grey paintjob by the way (if you can't bear the photos).


The Breech
Posted Image
The breech is simply 17/32" brass within a special cut piece of 9/16" brass. The beauty of this breech is that it does not waste barrel lineage, as the breech slides back over the dart, creating an excellent, clean seal (which requires no shell). It's lubricated with silicon (silicone? wish I understood the difference) lubricant to ensure smooth loading. I may as well mention the barrel briefly now. After browsing for a recommended barrel type for the bbb, I ran into cxwq's suggestion, and stuck with it: 2" of 17/32" at the start nested in 6" of 9/16", all inside of 10" of 19/32". My setup gives the effect of these measurements, though not built quite the same. The breech slider offers that first 2", the breech piece gives the 4" in its size, and then the last 4" is covered by 19/32". What you see in the photos is some sch 80 pvc to protect the fragile brass assembly. At the very beginning of the barrel, there is a piece of dental floss taught tight across the diameter of the barrel, which is crucial to the functioning of my breech system (explained later).


The Clip
Posted Image
This clip (8 dart capacity) is actually made from a normal tape/cassette case with one end dremeled off. I've had the most luck with "Scotch High Position XSII-S 100 IEC Type II" tape cases since they have the least amount of excess crap on the inside to sand down. After dremeling away at the case and adding some nice black masking tape, I ended up with a perfect clip. Since this is a gravity system, the top dart is actually filled with weights evenly inside to press down on the other darts, and is not a fireable dart. In the photo there is a rubberband over the clip to prevent the darts from rolling out of the open end. This clip can be easily made, and with some velcro, many clips can be easily carried.

The Reciever
Posted Image
I had a bit of fun making this piece, which accepts the clip. It's a cut piece of plexiglass which I then heated with a candle along certain points, and bent, to form the shape you see. I marked the bend points ahead of time in sharpie to know where to heat and form right angles. If you decide to do this, make sure you have acrylic plexiglass and not polycarbonate, since polycarbonate is not a thermal plastic (will just make a big mess if you put it to the fire).

Parts I haven't explained yet
Posted Image
Once I take good photos, I'll be sure to have some detailed internal shots. The way the breech actually works is linked to the 'trigger' half of the gun. There is a length of coathanger (use musicwire in the future) which I carefully bent in several ways, which attaches to the trigger half, and slides along one side of the plunger assembly and out through one side of the gun. This piece is then attached to the sliding breech piece on one side (out of the way of darts), therefore making the breech move when the bbb is cocked. When the two parts are pushed together, the breech opens and a dart drops in; when pulled apart, the slider slips over the dart (which is held in place by the dental floss bit previously mentioned), and is ready to be fired.

Really-need-a-new-camera Photos
Posted ImagePosted Image
Posted ImagePosted Image

Questions welcomed (I've left plenty out).



#65628 Crayola'd Bbb

Posted by PissBacon on 12 October 2005 - 02:57 PM in Modifications

I think the idea is: if you can't measure ranges, don't post ranges.



#65428 Ram Help

Posted by PissBacon on 10 October 2005 - 02:43 AM in Off Topic

What all is going into this system? Both of those choices aren't great latencies (which directly affects performance). Sure 4gb is nicer than 2, but not only are both of these not particularly fast, the 4gb is basically really slow. I reiterate: what are you putting this memory into?



#65427 Seen FF VII Advent Children Yet?

Posted by PissBacon on 10 October 2005 - 02:18 AM in Off Topic

I watched it on my PSP, and yes, it was pretty nice. Too bad I've never played the game.



#65332 New Version Bbb Mod

Posted by PissBacon on 08 October 2005 - 03:39 PM in Modifications

Aw crap! You beat me to it, along with my bbb mod I had a grey and black paintjob, but I've been too busy to finish up the mod. Ah well, nicely done anyways.



#65007 Ipod Nano Article

Posted by PissBacon on 04 October 2005 - 03:50 AM in Off Topic

I've been needing a better mp3 player for about 4 years, barely getting by on my old archos jukebox recorder 20, and so I bought a nano the same day they were released. It's very nice for me, since I hate electronics bulging in my pockets when they should be portable (kill me for not being overweight and/or wearing baggy clothing). The nano came out only a few days after my birthday, so I lumped some b-day money together, and do not regret the buy. I do have ~40gb of music, but it's not hard for me to choose what I want to carry with me.



#65006 Buzz Bee Rfr + At2k Integration

Posted by PissBacon on 04 October 2005 - 03:13 AM in Modifications

Incredible - it must have taken quite a bit of time to work that all out, as you have stated. The only part I find unfortunate is that the rof is actually decreased because of the pumping required; from a practical standpoint it defeats the purpose of having the rfr mechanism. Nonetheless, it's something new and inventive, and more mods can add onto this as well.



#64789 Stefan Theory

Posted by PissBacon on 01 October 2005 - 10:18 PM in General Nerf

There are more complicated physics at work here than you realize. You should understand that the only reason a dart can only go a certain distance is from gravity and wind resistance (more accurately aerodynamic drag) (Newton's first law). This means really you have a basic force (force = mass x acceleration, Newton's 2nd) which is being hindered by the previously mentioned forces.

To make an accurate formula you would need to incorporate gravity's negative acceleration, quantify friction the dart suffers, and figure out the force the dart is projected with (muzzle velocity x dart weight). This is to make a simple formula too, a more accurate one has to include other factors like windspeed and imperfect darts.

There may be some formulas I am unaware of that can approximately model what I'm discussing, but I haven't taken any physics classes yet so I wouldn't know.

EDIT:
http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=3223 (esp. cranky monky's post)
http://www.glenbrook...DKin/U1L6a.html
After thinking this out further, I realized you can calculate how long it will take the dart to fall if fired level from, say, 5 feet off the ground. Then use the muzzle velocity to calculate how far it would travel in that timeframe. That would be a rough estimate, but it would ingore resistence on that muzzle velocity as it travels through the air



#64693 Post-mod Pics Of Ertl Blowdart Turret

Posted by PissBacon on 30 September 2005 - 07:41 PM in Modifications

awesome idea

It's also a pretty universal idea - something you could adapt to many guns.



#64655 Real Laser Pointer

Posted by PissBacon on 30 September 2005 - 02:11 AM in Modifications

I've done this process using a laser pointer. It was on my storm 2000 gun. The trigger was set up so when you pull lightly, the laser lights, and then a full pull opens the valve.

I don't have a firefly, so I don't know what voltage the batteries are wired to produce. Taking a look at laser pointers, I usually see the 2AAA kinds, and the 3 button-cell kinds. the 2AAA are wired in series, producing a total of around 3 volts, and the triple button kinds probably use LR44's in series, producing 4.5 volts. If you have a volt/multi-meter you can check the output of the batteries so you'll know what kind of laser pointer to use. Also, isnt the firefly wired to just 'flash' instead of maintain light? You will have to mod this too; again I don't have a firefly to offer wiring help.



#64654 Cars

Posted by PissBacon on 30 September 2005 - 01:53 AM in Off Topic

This can outperform many sports cars since its a custom hybrid tuned properly. The electric motors allow for extreme acceleration, and the gas allows for maintaining speed and charging the battery. The frame is a matter of taste, but I bet its a wild ride.
EDIT: Some more detailed specifics about this car: 0-60 in under 4 seconds, over 50 mpg, 200 horse turbo diesel and 200 horse electrics. The batteries are intended mostly for acceleration, so the diesel runs during normal use

My current ride isn't so bad; how do those of you in highschool get your parents to buy you cars? It's the same thing with my friends, they all get cars for birthdays or after getting a license, but I can't afford a car or the insurance.



#64639 Bayonet

Posted by PissBacon on 29 September 2005 - 10:05 PM in Homemades

I was thinking of puting a bayonet on the homemade rifle I am making.  I am going to make it out of cpvc covered with pipe insulation.

Why don't you do it and then post, instead of vaguely speculating?



#64635 Youre Computer Specs

Posted by PissBacon on 29 September 2005 - 09:49 PM in Off Topic

Speaking of processor cores I earlier said I was upgrading to a AMD 4000+. Ayone know what the differences are between ones like Newcastle, Clawhammer, San Diego, Venice, Barton and which ones are better?

In general, the Venice revision of AMD processors are ideal, though if you aren't overclocking it doesn't matter too much.

hers what i got XPS
owned :w00t: 


Too bad Dell sells overpriced computers, like any other retailer.

Does anyone have a shuttle pc or similar form factor?

Slaya, that is just a modified windows shell. The shell is the gui part of windows, so really the start menu and all you see is easily substituted for something much cleaner. I've also chosen to not have icons clutter my desktop; the bar at the top has more than enough functionality. Currently I'm running the litestep shell using a nonstep theme, but there are tons of different shells and skins available. Be careful what you install though, some of the shells/skins have memory leaks (shivers).

I'd like to add it was only in the past few months I bought my computer; I tend to be thrifty and wait until parts are reasonably priced, instead of spending $700 on an effing graphics card.



#64550 Youre Computer Specs

Posted by PissBacon on 28 September 2005 - 11:59 PM in Off Topic

AMD 64 3000+ (Venice, OC'ed)
BFG VNF4 nfofo s.939 (Don't buy this board)
OCZ modstream 520w
Gigabyte Nvidia 6600GT
PQi 1 GB ultra-low latency
Seagate Barracuda 120GB SATA
HP DVD640I (litescribe capable)
Zalman VF700-Cu and CNPS9500 LED (used to be CNPS 7700-Cu)
Antec P180 (original fans and ducts stripped)
3 x Nexus 120mm (manual voltage)
Hyundai Imagequest L90D+ 19''
No tacky lights, stickers, windows; just silence.

EDIT: This is my desktop for anyone who cares (click on image for fullsize).



#64367 Micro Hornet!

Posted by PissBacon on 26 September 2005 - 12:28 AM in Modifications

Couldn't the pump have stayed in the same area of the gun (below the handle, in the case) with a little trimming?

EDIT: I don't have a hornet myself to do this (or I would have already), but it seems very possible.



#64366 Clip Mod

Posted by PissBacon on 26 September 2005 - 12:26 AM in Modifications

Did you run into this thread from a link I posted? In any case, I have a similarly designed mechanism (magvalve), and it doesn't loose much power at all. It's about the same as adding a couple inches of vynil tubing, or having a barrel a little too long, and not pushing the dart in all the way. If you're using a single barrel at2k, I don't see this being a problem (are you really going to hit people from that far away?!).



#64311 Limewire

Posted by PissBacon on 25 September 2005 - 12:07 PM in Off Topic

It doesn't matter if it was a little long; I was waiting for someone to correct rambo's misconceptions. On a further note about getting busted, usually the RIAA goes after 'supernodes', especially ones who share tons of files, since they are the biggest problem. So if you're using one of those programs, don't enable supernode features, and like it's been said already, don't share too many files.



#64251 Buyin A Rf20/nite Finder

Posted by PissBacon on 24 September 2005 - 10:43 AM in General Nerf

Ask for guns in the trade section, and be sure to mention they need to ship to Australia.



#64242 New Topic To Get Away From The Sniper Topic!

Posted by PissBacon on 24 September 2005 - 02:31 AM in General Nerf

Surrounding the barrel with flexible materials like hot glue and e-tape will not keep it from bending out of line when it's dropped; they will just flex with it. Not only that, but this doesn't answer the original question

To make sure a barrel is straight, the method will really depend on what gun you are modding. For something like a blast bazooka with a long barrel, you can use a pendulum. Get a right angle to mark a line along the barrel stub; this will be a reference point, so it is important the line be straight so the barrel will be too. While the barrel/stub of the gun is facing the ground, attach the pendulum (probably tape) so that it runs along the marked line, physically touching it. I'm lucky enough to have a vice in my room, but use whatever is convenient to hold the gun in place while doing this alignment. To make sure it's lined up both left-right and foreward-backward, you need to see both if the string lines up with the line and if the string is parallel to the barrel stub.

The black lines are the gun, orange is the barrel/stub and pink is the pendulum.
Perspective is you looking at the gun while its stub points towards the ground.
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image
Good ------------------- Bad --------------- Bad
Using paint images: just goes to show how inarticulate I am.

It really depends on the gun; on some guns you can use decorations that go across the gun lengthwise that are clearly parallel to the barrel instead of using a right angle. After you have the pendulum where you want it, just put the barrel in the stub, making sure it lines up with the pendulum, and glue.



#64041 Strongarm

Posted by PissBacon on 21 September 2005 - 01:41 AM in Modifications

http://nerfhq.com/ph...opic.php?t=1686

Forums are great but people need to realize that just because someone owns a Nerf gun they're not going to automatically be participants on that forum community. With all due respect to the tire iron crowd, they've been around longer so they've gotten grumpier with seeing the same questions over and over again, and the same posts over and over again. The problem is when they express that grumpiness they turn off newcomers.


I don't necessarily agree with either side of the argument about 'n00bz', but it certainly leads to a lot of hard feelings ('tire iron').



#63902 What Other Sports Do You Do

Posted by PissBacon on 19 September 2005 - 12:48 AM in Off Topic

Uncle Hammer, not to question your skateboarding skills, but where did your shadow go?

As for me, year-round xc/track training.



#63901 'big Bad' Glory

Posted by PissBacon on 19 September 2005 - 12:39 AM in General Nerf

That's fookin' great! I'm already planning some sort of a clip mod on it, so I'll need at least one. The only thing that sucks is the $25 price tag. And that air restrictor doesn't sound too friendly...Nonetheless, it's definitely worth it. Hopefully it will reach Minnesota soon. (I still haven't seen an FF) Thanks for the good news!

~Rings

Interesting; I too was planning a clip mod for the bbb due to its sliding action.

Sort of on a tangent; someone mentioned the ompa clip, so I searched for it, and couldn't believe my eyes. It was essentially the same design I recently posted, and I never realized it had already been invented. The only real difference was that I used an expensive maglite instead of a piece of pipe like I should have.

Ompa's

Mine

This probably reveals my plans for a bbb anyway, with the sliding action and all.



#63898 Buzz Bee Rapid Fire Rifle Guts

Posted by PissBacon on 19 September 2005 - 12:23 AM in Modifications

Wait, did I miss something? How did you get that gun? I haven't seen anything about the rff (rapid fire rifle) being out posted.



#63895 Triple Pump Tubed At2k

Posted by PissBacon on 18 September 2005 - 11:52 PM in Modifications

It looks promising.

With the two extra pumps is it really tough to pump, or does it just have reasonable resistance? Also, I'm not sure how you've attached the two other pumps to the gun, but I would wonder if it is sturdy enough without tons of fastening to withstand the extra force of 3 pumps being used.