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#62562 Zero's Site

Posted by reversedracula on 25 August 2005 - 10:54 PM in Off Topic

Perhaps a more fitting name for the site would be Foam ReModified. Those pictures make me think of Groove's DbF with the "Swedish foam".

#24934 Will The Fun Last?.......

Posted by reversedracula on 26 April 2004 - 10:33 PM in General Nerf

I'd like to point out I have 15 year old guns sitting around from the early Nerf days of my childhood... what's another decade on top of that? So they say "Made in China" instead of "Made in Mexico" meh.

#21619 What!?!?!

Posted by reversedracula on 18 March 2004 - 03:33 PM in News

We Nerf indoors at school. We have huge undergrad academic buildings at our disposal at night though. There are some long standoffs with crossbows and the like, but multiple staircases and such make it workable. On the plus size, ring guns never really screw up and you don't often lose ammo.

#48547 What Guns Do You Take Into A War?

Posted by reversedracula on 03 March 2005 - 01:10 AM in General Nerf

I almost always use my copper barreled SuperMaxx 3000 blue with a nice strap to sling it over my shoulder or to drop gently and go for either the AirTech2000s or Nite Finders or tri-barrel modded Secret Shots from side holsters if I want to fight with two weapons. I used to mix things up more, but that's pretty much my standard, primarily because I get all the joys of a rapid fire (my SM3k magically, strangely is fully primed after a single pump) with none of the loss in accuracy that a powerclip or rapid 20 bring to the game.

#26859 What Brand Fbr

Posted by reversedracula on 24 May 2004 - 08:59 AM in General Nerf

I've noticed 1/2" copper barrels get a bit tighter after I do the twisting cut on them. To widen them out again to fit my stock micros what I did was take a pair of pliers and squeeze all around the end of the barrels, widening them ever so slightly. Then, to make it rounder so it wouldn't hurt my darts and rip them as it fired them, I put the entire nose of the pliers into the copper and opened it and twisted it so it was pushing outward where I had just pressed a bunch of dents to widen the sides. It worked with copper, and I suppose it'd work with copper, since brass is two thirds copper anyway. So unless zinc has some weird properties I'm unaware of, give it a try for the brass too.

#21971 Virginia Nerfers?

Posted by reversedracula on 21 March 2004 - 07:53 PM in Nerf Wars

We play just about every week in Williamsburg on Saturday nights indoors with about three dozen people... after careful conferring with Groove after seeing "Williamsburg", it seems I've already been playing with him before, knew him in real life, but hadn't realized it.

#21993 Virginia Nerfers?

Posted by reversedracula on 21 March 2004 - 10:57 PM in Nerf Wars

If you want to get on board with the sci-fi club at my school that notifies about Williamsburg games (weekly events with dozens of folks) let me know over AIM, please. (This is also my AIM name.)

#41611 True Self Expression

Posted by reversedracula on 14 November 2004 - 12:27 AM in Off Topic

"What are the differences stylistically between International and World Federation?"

To answer this question about tae kwon do a bit later in the thread than I would've liked because I've been busy, mostly the differences are in the forms, patterns whatever you desire to call them. The ITF style is more traditional and the WTF considers itself more "modern."

#41405 True Self Expression

Posted by reversedracula on 11 November 2004 - 02:11 AM in Off Topic

I've done tae kwon do and hap ki do for a bit over a decade now. I do ITF style moreso than WTF tae kwon do. The type of hap ki do is the sin moo variety under Grandmaster Ji Han Jae... I have a bit of knowledge of a few other arts, but only a bit.

#86044 Think Geek!

Posted by reversedracula on 30 July 2006 - 12:15 AM in Off Topic

They used to have blastfire DX500s for sale back in the day on ThinkGeek. Ahh, to be young again.

#31124 The Michael Moore Movie

Posted by reversedracula on 13 July 2004 - 10:28 PM in Off Topic

We may disagree on politics, but we certainly agree on the decrease in the quality of Will Smith's sci-fi films... and in the end, isn't that what really matters, my Iron Chef friend? :lol:

#31113 The Michael Moore Movie

Posted by reversedracula on 13 July 2004 - 08:30 PM in Off Topic

I think Ray Bradbury, author of Fahrenheit 451 said it best: "Michael Moore is a screwed asshole."


Long live science fiction! On a serious note though, I can't help but think this crappy I, Robot film "based on" the Asimov book is going to suck more than a positron brain imbalance and prove significantly more detrimental to the sci-fi/fantasy community. Bush/Cheney '04. Bradbury '08!

#28237 Tek Six - Any Ideas From The Mod Geniuses?

Posted by reversedracula on 10 June 2004 - 05:50 PM in Modifications

The tek six suffers from a very weak spring. Its barrels are also too short to fire even standard micros. If you want a good Buzz Bee toy, get the Tek Ten. The range isn't much farther, but for almost as fast as a blastfire's semi-auto flurry, when you wield the Tek Ten (make sure you get the kind with round barrels) in an indoor war, you have spring-loaded fast recocking goodness to tear up your surroundings. I had a hexagonal Tek Ten and tried to single-barrel mod it. It's no chainblazer. You don't get shit for distance out of it as the spring isn't strong enough to force much energy to overcome barrel friction for the dart. If you're looking for a fast action repeating gun, I recommend doing some barrel mods on an AT3k, AT4k, or SM3k auto-rotator. If you need to fire quickly, on one pump you can get Tek gun distance on most crayola/piping mods on multi-barrel auto-rotators. Thus spake Reverse Dracula.

#28410 Tek Six - Any Ideas From The Mod Geniuses?

Posted by reversedracula on 13 June 2004 - 12:04 PM in Modifications

Once I get more crayolas and pick up a strong spring for the tek ten with those hexagonal barrels you folks always hear me complaining about, I'll post about if I get it to work. I tried some sanded down PVC barrels so they'd be small enough to fit nicely, but there wasn't enough force behind the dart to get it to leave the barrel... so we'll see what crayolas and a new spring do for my stock micros. The gun's pretty good for indoor stuff if you do manage to get one with circular barrels though. (I'm just randomly saying this again essentially to make sure no one else suffers split microdarts from the bad version tek ten.) :(

#28585 Tek Six - Any Ideas From The Mod Geniuses?

Posted by reversedracula on 15 June 2004 - 08:42 PM in Modifications

He's not the only one to have a tek ten rotting in the closet. My hexagonal barrel one that I've removed the barrel shafts from and tried to mess with is also sitting in my closet. We're all counting on you! If it doesn't happen, I'll try some crude mod with crayolas and goop for stock ammo or something along those lines by the end of the summer. Whatever you do, you can't get anything with a frictional barrel to fire from that gun. Indeed, the slight friction from the STOCK HEXAGONAL BARRELS is enough to make the gun screw up. Long story short, I'm still griping about how those barrels such and how much better the round-barreled tex ten is.

#24852 Tek 6 Or Unmodded/modded Airtech 2000

Posted by reversedracula on 25 April 2004 - 10:26 PM in General Nerf

Tek Ten is like a Tek Six but with standard length barrels, so it can comfortably fit a microdart. It also has ten shots, of course. Pull back the top part just like the lock'n'load, and pull the trigger. You can shoot almost as fast as a blastfire, but it requires two hands, and you don't get quite the distance. Also, there are two kinds of Tek Tens, some with hexgonal barrels and some with round. The round ones fire Nerf stock in addition to Buzz Bee Toys stock, and they don't split your darts the way the one with hexagonal barrels does, so look down the barrels. I purchased mine at K-Mart.

#24083 Tek 6 Or Unmodded/modded Airtech 2000

Posted by reversedracula on 12 April 2004 - 02:57 PM in General Nerf

For the usual indoor games I play, the Tek Ten is probably the best close-range gun on the market today. The AT2k has better range, and using standard ammo without barrel mods, is on par with the nite finder at about 50-55 feet. The Tek guns get about 35-40 feet without modding. I've found there are two versions of the Tek Ten, one that has round barrels and another with stupid hexagonal barrels that doesn't fire stock micros or Stefans easily; it splits them. Oh, and don't use a Tek six. Either upgrade to the ten with the round barrels or use the AT2k.

#27395 Tech6 Full Ammo Unload?

Posted by reversedracula on 31 May 2004 - 08:49 PM in Modifications

The Tek Ten is a larger version and a good deal better. Make sure you get round barrels. There's a kind with round barrels and a kind with hexagonal barrels (dumb idea, doesn't fire well). Anyway, it's a decent spring gun as you can cock it and fire it repeatedly very quickly, albeit at a short range.

#27420 Tech6 Full Ammo Unload?

Posted by reversedracula on 01 June 2004 - 09:23 AM in Modifications

I picked up my Tek Ten at K-mart. As to replacing the hexagonal barrels, it's a very tight fit and I found the rotator doesn't work when any goop or epoxy has dripped down the sides, and whenever I try to get rid of that I end up severely weakening or breaking the seal. Also, you can't really make a tight fit because there's not much power behind the spring to launch a snug dart. I tried dremeling the barrels to widen them and met with limited success as the darts still snagged against the rough sides. I used copper for the barrel replacements. Once I pick up some PETG, I'll try again, but I'm not too hopeful. Just get the one with the round barrels and avoid the problem.

#28974 Supermaxx 1500 Barrel Questions

Posted by reversedracula on 20 June 2004 - 07:19 PM in Modifications

I disagree, Tinkerer. The range increase in the ChainBlazer is very significant indeed, especially with such an unreliable rotator. Not only is it unreliable, but there's a piece on the rotator that rotates the items that's very prone to breaking and can't be repaired as easily as other rotators such as the AT4k. It's just a very tiny chunk of plastic that can't be gooped/epoxied on or healed otherwise. Even just some PVC for micro darts shoots about twice as far as the stock megadarts. As for using some bigger barrel or different dart... I'm a perpetual indoorsman Nerfer so I wouldn't know. I'm sure it's a similar deal with the Rototrack.

#68447 Strongest Adhesive

Posted by reversedracula on 27 November 2005 - 01:08 PM in Modifications

I was wondering what everyone's favorite type of adhesive and sealant is for Nerf weapons. I've been trying plumber's goop, E6000, Household Welder, Gorilla Glue, plastic cement for models, hot glue, various epoxies. What does everyone recommend to get the strongest seal and adhesion? The reason I ask is because my friend did a smashing job of sticking a PVC barrel inseperably to the head of an old supersoaker XP65. I've been trying to put a similar barrel replacement on by big bad bow, but to no great effect. I get a good seal and adhesion, but the barrel always seems to snap off from the side at the slightest angular pressure. Anyone have any recommendations for glues to try or things to do differently? Thanks.

#29647 Straightening Stefans In Dryer

Posted by reversedracula on 26 June 2004 - 10:57 PM in General Nerf

I'm going to be the jerk who comes out against you without first answering your question. Get yourself a blowdryer and a sink for some foam tempering. You can straighten about 100 Stefans in half an hour that way and likely do a better job than anything I've ever seen done with a clothing dryer. Apart from that, just try to figure out what you did different from last time. If you want to really focus on finding the problem, try to recreate your good batch, but stop the dryer every few minutes to check on your darts. You can get them sometime between lukewarm and volcanic goo if you're willing to take the time.

#29292 Stock Or Stefan?

Posted by reversedracula on 23 June 2004 - 04:32 PM in General Nerf

We recently had some issues with Stefans for our weekly indoor games with about 30 people on average in attendance. Several people were using Stefans in this huge, close-range, cluttered mess. Seeing as how these darts were leaving many welts and we had some close calls with people getting shot in the eyes even wearing glasses, and we've seen Stefan go through fiberglass ceiling tiles; we've placed a ban on homemade darts for our games. I therefore only use stock darts.

#29382 Son Of An Airtech 3000

Posted by reversedracula on 24 June 2004 - 09:30 AM in Modifications

I'm a fan of the Dremmel with plyers follow-up. If you press hard in a circular, outward fashion from inside the barrel, you should be able to wear down the sides of the stub that's stuck in side and elongate it slightly. After this, get a small wedge that tapers to a point, something between a very small screwdriver head and an awl and jam it in there with brute force and sort of lever it so it toward the center so it can be grabbed with plyers. Be careful not to stab yourself. Not that I'd know anything about that... ahem... Then you should be able to work in the plyers. That's what I did with my AT4k and it made all the barrel holes pretty clean. Shoved in crayolas with goop and it worked fine. You can of course usse PETG or whatever else too. Wrap it in duct tape after it cures and you're done. On a specific note for the AT3k, I didn't care to keep that orange thing to have straight barrels perfectly, partially because I'm lazy (or broke the piece, take your pick.) I've found that a 2 inch section of 1/2" PVC in the center serves the same purpose with a bit of hot glue. Good luck.

#26844 Sm3k Blue Copper Mod.

Posted by reversedracula on 24 May 2004 - 01:23 AM in Modifications

So I was hitting a Kay-B Toystore liquidator in my area, and they happened to have some SM3k (blues) and AT2ks lying around. I did the standard taking out of the air restrictors. As we play indoors with stock ammo and I don't do much modding to keep things safe and to keep my guns from being wrecked, I sat on that for a while. Then I noticed that I could easily fit 3-inch copper barrels into the considerably larger barrel holes after popping the protective cap off the SM3k. The barrels just slid right out then after taking off another little nominal attachment. It's a really simple, reversible mod to just slide the copper barrels with their ends wrapped in duct tape right in there. I wrapped the old barrels in duct tape and put them right in front of that part that sticks up in the back like a fin. I did this for ammo storage, and to change back if my mod disquieted my fellow gamers too much. Range was significantly increased over just removing the huge air-restrictors. Also, once you take off the cap and a little piece of plastic under it, you can slide a flashlight right in there for a cool sort of night vision effect. I used a clear blue flashlight and one eye I cut out from 3D glasses to tint the light and gave it a very cool overall blue effect. Also, I did a pretty simple goop to plunger tube chainblazer mod today, and a crayola nestled mod for the eagle eye. It dawned on me then to point out what many already realize, but some of you may not yet know. When you modify a gun to shoot smaller ammo than it is intended for, it has the same amount of force behind something lighter, effectively making it more powerful, hence the arrowstorm when it gets a snug fit with megadarts, my chainblazer and eagle eye, my switch shot, etc. Point is, if you're concerned about keeping your guns' internals intact like I am, these are some simple and powerful mods that won't hurt them and are almost wholly reversible.

#26886 Sm3k Blue Copper Mod.

Posted by reversedracula on 24 May 2004 - 04:52 PM in Modifications

If you do what I did to it, it works pretty well. I'm using 1/2" copper width with barrels cut to 3" each. It's a little front heavy, but the rotator still works fine and if you make a sling with some rope through that part on the top that sticks out, you can alleviate much of the weight-bearing from your arm/arms. Alternatively, you could use 1/2" PVC barrels cut to the same length, but because it's a wider pipe, you'd likely have to goop/epoxy it for a seal rather than just shoving it in with the duct tape.

#26981 Sm3k Blue Copper Mod.

Posted by reversedracula on 25 May 2004 - 10:27 AM in Modifications

I've never used an AT4k, the rotator and such might be better, if you meant on that one, not the AT3k. I promised someone numbers with stock micros, and it's about 60'-65' feet, which isn't bad for a minimal mod where you don't have to open the gun, and using an SM3k blue as the base weapon, and for using stock ammo. By contrast, my AT3k gets about 35' feet. Perhaps this is because all I've done is remove the air-restrictors and goop the barrels back on. As for the rotator being better in the AT3k, that's hogwash. On both mine and some friends' AT3ks, the rotator gets stuck sometimes about halfway. I think the problem is that you have to pull the pump all the way forward to secure the rotator's movement, but even still, it doesn't feel as secure as the SM3k's rotation and can even skip out of it. I've a friend who always uses the AT3k and has problems with it only rotating halfway, so his shot either putters out abysmally or doesn't leave the barrel. It should be noted that I could get the SM3k's shots to go further on a level shot. What I mean by this is, the gun was level with the ground, as best I could gauge by looking at the barrel. But it still arced up when it fired out, just the dart itself by a few feet. To correct this and get the gun to fire the dart in a line rather than have a few feet of arc, I had to actually angle slightly downward with the barrel. That's where I got my numbers from. Figure in another 5-10 (70-75 total) feet for the other kind of shot where the barrel is straight, but the dart arcs slightly. All shots fired from a barrel height of 3-4 feet and measurments taken at distance from tip of barrel. All that being said, I'd like to get my hands on an AT4k or an SM3k green to compare some day... I stand by my mediocre numbers (which aren't so bad when you consider the gun I started with) and even more strongly stand by my condemnation of the AT3k's rotator.

#26996 Sm3k Blue Copper Mod.

Posted by reversedracula on 25 May 2004 - 02:27 PM in Modifications

They should be about the same if I ever go through and mess around with an AT3k mod. But the SM3k works fine these past few weeks... we'll see, eh? Hasn't ever skipped or self-destructed... yet. I'll eat my words if it ever starts giving me trouble, but as it is now, no problems. Thanks for confirming that you need to pull fully forward to engage the rotator for the AT3k. I'll alert my 'deer in the headlights look' friend who always has that problem. Higher ammo count is nice, but what my experiments on the SM3k indicate is probably just a lust on my part to find a good AT4k. :rolleyes:

#26937 Sm3k Blue Copper Mod.

Posted by reversedracula on 24 May 2004 - 08:17 PM in Modifications

I don't have much in terms of measuring tape, but I'll test my stock micros tomorrow when it's light out and get an average if I remember. Remember, not all stock micros are the same. Depending how often it's been fired from the barrel before, it may fit better, or depending on if it's red or yellow, etc. etc. The point is, don't take my numbers as gospel for yourself once I get them. I don't have any Stefans right now as I mostly just do indoor gaming at college and the activities adminstrators and some of the game players sort of frown on using Stefans, so I can only do my stock micro testing. Also, I've noticed with the SM3k that on two good pumps, it fills up with air. The same happens with the AT2k. I haven't plugged the overpressure release. Anyone else find this happening? Back me up on this.

#23101 Simple Homemade Gun

Posted by reversedracula on 31 March 2004 - 11:00 PM in General Nerf

We play indoors and have a house stock ammo rule. Yeah, the aim isn't so good, and I had the missile-stomp in mind when I designed it because I wanted one that fired darts instead of arrows. Found another cool gun at k-mart, it's one of those big yellow water guns that you draw back and the water comes in and you fire it out of a nozzle... direct pressure gun. I sawed off the nozzle and it fires up to eight balls now, distance decreases with each ball because the force behind each decreases--still fun. And, the "trigger" has a flashlight!

#22940 Simple Homemade Gun

Posted by reversedracula on 30 March 2004 - 06:55 PM in General Nerf

This is my idea for a simple homemade gun. Materials you will need include two rubber plunger heads (the kind you clean a toilet with), three feet of washing machine hose or vinyl hose, and 10 inches of 1/2 inch PVC. You also need lots of duct tape. This will fire microdarts about 50 feet if properly done. First, stuff one end of the washing machine hose between the plungers. Make sure the plungers face each other to make a pump. Tape the thing together tightly. Fit the PVC into the other end of the washing machine hose. Tape up that end also. To load the dart securely, slide it somewhat into the barrel. Covering the barrel with your hand, press down (with your foot) hard on the two plunger heads. Let the vaccuum pull the dart in (but not all the way into the hose shaft). This will allow the dart to accelerate up the length of the barrel. I haven't tried this with Stefans or anything, but I'm sure if you find the right barrel, this would likely work with any ammo. What I then suggest is making a PVC tripod to mount said guns so you have a sort of area defense gun you can mount and stomp hard as you see fit. I don't have a camera and haven't done extensive range testing. This is basically a rehash of the old Nerf stomp gun that fired arrows back in the day, redone for other ammo. Let me know what you think.

#22954 Simple Homemade Gun

Posted by reversedracula on 30 March 2004 - 08:25 PM in General Nerf

I'm hitting 50' constantly with stock micros and a decent stomp from a 140 pound guy, so long as the micros are loaded properly. The acceleration in the barrel helps. You are correct in that it is difficult to aim. It's cool to wrap around my back with the pump in one hand and the gun firing off of one shoulder. This is my protest to my campus police who do not want me using "facsimile weapons" that might be mistake for real guns in the dark. Anyway, I think if it were mounted, it could be aimed better.

#30186 Session 11 - "toys In The Attic" (with Pics)

Posted by reversedracula on 02 July 2004 - 12:29 PM in Off Topic

That's an awesome session. I did the same thing with a plastic milk jug on campus last semester. You know of course that I'm at least as obsessed with bebop as you are, if not moreso. :) That picture with the hazard rod is quite risible. Rock on, man. I'm proud to call you friend.

#29021 Pussies! (now Completely Dolphin Safe)

Posted by reversedracula on 21 June 2004 - 08:48 AM in Modifications

Waiting for Cxwq's posting today was like waiting for a Christmas gift. A crossbow Christmas gift.

Edit: Er, just checked his timestamp, seems I went to bed right before he posted, but you get the idea.

#29034 Pussies! (now Completely Dolphin Safe)

Posted by reversedracula on 21 June 2004 - 10:38 AM in Modifications

Looks like Ice Nine and I snagged the good new signatures.

For those of you unfamiliar with trolls, this is right out of the monster manual:

Large Giant
Hit Dice: 6d8+36 (63hp)
Initiative: +2 (Dex)
Speed: 30ft
AC: 18 (-1 size, +2 Dex, +7 natural)
Attacks: 2 claws, +9 melee, bite +4 melee
Damage: Claw 1d6+6, bute 1d6+3
Face/Reach: 5 ft. by 5ft./10ft
Special Attacks: Rend 2d6+9
Special Qualities: Regeneration 5, scent, darkvision 90 ft.
Saves: Fort +11, Ref +4, Will +3
Abilities: Str 23, Dex 14, Con 23, Int 6, Wis 9, Cha 6
Skills: Listen +5, Spot +5
Feats: Alertness, Iron Will

"Trolls are horrid carnivores found in all climes, from arctic wastelands to tropical jungles. Most creatures avoid these beasts, who know no fear and attack unceasingly when hungry. Trolls have ravenous appetites, devouring everything from grubs to bears and humanoids. They often lair near settlements and hunt the inhabitants until they devour every last one. A typical adult troll stands 9 feet tall and weights 500 pounds. Its rubbery hide is moss green, mottled green and gray, or putrid gray. A writhing, hairlike mass grows out of the skull and is usually greenish black or iron gray. The arms and legs are long and ungainly. The legs end in great three-toed feet, the arms in wide, powerful hands with sharpened claws. Trolls can appear thin and frail but possess suprising strength. Females are larger and more powerful than their male counterparts. Trolls walk upright but hunched forward with sagging shoulders. Their gait is uneven, and when they run, the arms dangle and drag along the ground."

"Trolls have no fear of death: They launch themselves into combat without hesitation, flailing wildly at the closest opponent. Even when confronted with fire, they try to get around the flames and attack."

If you wish for more information about trolls, read some Norwegian folklore, go watch David the Gnome, read Henrick Ibsen's play Peer Gynt or listen to Edvard Grieg's In the Hall of the Mountain King from his Peer Gynt Suite, based on Ibsen's play. More info on forum trolls here:

#29022 Powerclip Psi?

Posted by reversedracula on 21 June 2004 - 08:51 AM in Modifications

That sounds like the problem with my gun, where the purple cylinder behind the trigger wasn't sealed properly. You say you've checked all the connections; maybe you've missed that one. Maybe you didn't. I had that problem new in box. Good luck.

#24158 Powerclip Problem

Posted by reversedracula on 13 April 2004 - 02:34 PM in Modifications

You should've just used some plumber's goop to reseal that purple part, if that is indeed what was leaking. Too late for that now though if you already cut it. Sigh.

#23529 Powerclip Problem

Posted by reversedracula on 05 April 2004 - 11:05 AM in Modifications

After fixing the seal on the purple part behind the trigger with some goop, the powerclip works fine again. I glued in a sawed-off chunk of a Stefan as a placeholder for the side without the tracking wheel, etc. Seems to work okay.

#23246 Powerclip Problem

Posted by reversedracula on 02 April 2004 - 08:54 PM in Modifications

I'm having a powerclip problem myself. I just got one new in box, yet when I pump it the recommended 12-15 times, the clip only advances through five, six or seven darts and then gets stuck. It seems the little green thing with the black flipper doesn't want to go forward after that. Is my gun using more pressure for each shot than it should be somehow? That's my best guess. Please help if you have any suggestions. I can repump it and finish off the clip almost. Please help if you have any ideas. Thanks!

Upon further review, I've discovered it happend to come from the factory without one of the things that holds the clip in place. So if anyone knows a particular method of fixing it that worked for you, (looking hopefully at ompa) please let me know.

#24217 Powerclip Problem

Posted by reversedracula on 14 April 2004 - 12:45 AM in Modifications

Ouch, sounds difficult. Good luck.