- → jwasko's Content
There have been 896 items by jwasko (Search limited from 03-September 93)
I'll probablty do it with the Viper, seeing as it will have to be based on one of those new, yellow/gold Mavs. I hate that recolor.
If you want to separate the plunger tube from the bolt sled, you can't do it through anything short of sawing the two apart near the silver pin towards the bolt face.
Sorry, SHA, but I have to call that to be completely wrong. I was able to take a (very small) flat-head screwdriver and just push the pin out.
So, yeah, try to push the pin out...unless Hasbro started gluing the pin in or something stupid.
No disrespect meant, SHA.
[Ep.III Darth Vader] NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! [/Ep.III Darth Vader]
Why, Hasbro? Why have you forsaken the us? And not only us, but all the children of the world...(except maybe children of those involved in the battery industry).
I'm gonna go be depressed now.
Anyways, here's a somewhat obvious factoid gleaned from those pictures: the length of the chains.
Now, of course, all of the announcements specifically state 25-link chains. But...
In the man-cleavage picture, there are two stretched out chains. The one that is further from the camera has 26 links in view, with the 26th going off-camera (so there is a possibility that it is even longer). The chain that is closer to the camera is partially obscured by the tripod, but contains at least 26 links; however, I believe that there is one link behind the the tripod (making it 27 links long).
In the cleavage-less pic that Angel and I posted, there is another stretched-out chain. I count 24 full links on camera, with another 2 partially on-camera (and the possibility of more off-camera).
Also, in both pictures, there is a coiled-up chain (actually, there are two in the cleavage-less pic). In the cleavage-less pic, in particular, the coiled chain that is closer to the camera is pretty much folded right back over itself. Also, whatever is keeping the links/shells together is black.
This black material seems pretty flexible. Not only can it fold in half, it seems that it can also flex (at least slightly) the "other way" (see how the stretched-out chains aren't exactly straight: they're wavy). I'm willing to bet that it's some kind of fabric rather than plastic.
So, I have conflicting tendencies. Since I count more than 25 links in the stretched-out chains, I tend to think you can remove and add links. But, on the other hand, the fabric seems like it's in there fairly permanently.
So...maybe Hasbro just can't count.
And if some one posts that sci-fi picture again... *twitches*
Found another picture here; no man-cleavage this time!
That definitely looks like an LS bolt handle on there.
PS: So, I guess no one actually went to the show-off thingamajig?
I didn't post the actual picture, but a link to a site with the picture.
Sorry if I offended you, Angel; and I wasn't implying that you copied but, rather, that you repeated the info. It's obvious that you just missed my post.
Edit: Penguin beat me to it.
Yeah, I got the fact that they are probably talking about (what we normally call) a plunger. And, actually, the main thing that made me think that you can single fire is the sentence after the sentence I quoted:
Like Slug said, the people who wrote the article don't really know what they're talking about. When they say "pneumatic pump" they might be thinking of a plunger. Because if you look before the words you quoted, it says "Like many other NERF guns..."
"[The Vulcan] has a pneumatic pump that's used to fire off single rounds. But six D batteries turn the hybrid Blaster into a foam shooting [fully automatic] gun."In my opinion, such a comparison makes me think that it has two modes of fire: LS-mode, and full-auto mode. I could be wrong, though; I was just excited at the possibility. Personally, after Slug's statements, I tend to think that my initial reading was incorrect.
I can dream, though, can't I? No, I can't any more...Why must you crush my dreams? Why?!?!
If there are indeed air restrictors (and not just pegs so we can't use stefans without a little work, or something like that), then there must be some air to restrict. The Tommy 20, for instance, has no need for air restrictors since there is no air involved; the fly wheel just flings out the darts.
Another nail in the fly wheel theory's coffin? Maybe.
I dearly hope so, Angel...a 25-shot springer? Now that's something to get excited about.
I am assuming when the batteries run out you can use this thing like a longshot.
6 "D" batteries? No thank you. Carb power, baby!
Plus, it should really cut down on the weight (the Vulcan's that is)
I mean, if I remember correctly, all of the "standard size" batteries (AAA through D) are 1.5 Volts. I thought the larger size of a C or D just made for a longer lifespan.
Granted, 6 batteries is better than the 4 in smeagolsaur's airsoft "gun," but (I think) that the fact that they are D batteries doesn't make a difference except that they will last longer.
...Then again, I could be totally wrong. Any electrical engineers, feel free to put a giant WRONG stamp here.
Edit: Thom beat me to it, though I still can't say for sure whether either of us is right.
1. to 9. I could respond to most of these with a flame, but I'll resist the temptation.
1. to 9. [stuff]
10. does anyone know if the tripod is removable?? because it would suck to go to pick it up and have the tripod in your way all the time.
i have complete faith in the nerfhaven community to post write-ups of any mods (easy and hard) to this gun when it comes out in fall '08.
have a nice day
10. Yes, it's removable, see the picture in Post #197 in this very thread.
Hope you have a flame-free day!
PS: You may want to consider use of the shift button.
If not, then perhaps it would be a good idea to add a gasket.
I'm mainly posting, however, to bring to your attention a possibly important typo in your Rev. 2 writeup:
In the picture for step 21, you label the holes in the hex bushing as being 9/64" while in the writeup of that step you say to drill a 5/32" hole.
I don't know if that actually matters or not, but in case it does...there you go.
As far as the length of the cocking indicator (whether it is the actual plunger rod or not), I noticed that there is a whole in the stock; this leads me to believe that the arm is at least that long.
As far as how long that distance is, it's you guys' best guess.
In a word, yes: I do think that the cocked-indicator-arm goes through (or, at least, into) that hole.
Speaking about the design of the plunger, I figure that it will be similar to the LS except for the placement of the catch:
The slide will push back the bolt, which will in turn push back the plunger. The plunger, rather than having a "knob" at the end, will have a catch-face somewhere in the middle of its length; similar to the NF, BBB, etc.
To sum up what we think about the plunger size:
-It's slightly shorter than the LS, but it's not it's LS front gun short.
-We know nothing about the diameter of the plunger chamber; the LS's was quite large, compared to a NF, even if the lengths were somewhat similar.
-We aren't going to know anything more until someone gets one in hand.
PS: For those not in the know, "Steel City" is Pittsburgh, which is in southwest PA.
The more you know...
If so, are you sure that the primary portion of the blaster does not have a barrel sticking out of it? The detachable barrel could be a sleeve with a few inches of barrel extension, rather than just being a barrel extension.
And for that matter, are we sure that there is a barrel besides the detachable one?
-Figure out how it works.
-Try to integrate a Big Blast (best idea ever, Dark Shrimp!).
-Make a system to attach random crap instead of the wannabe-laser (first up: SMDTG).
-It's a ready-made pistol-with-a-box-magazine.
My Reasons Not to Buy:
-Um...I could spend the money on something else? I don't know, since when does the suckiness of a blaster stop us from making it into something cool? Maybe not practical/efficient, and completely devoid from the original features/gimmicks, but cool nonetheless...
Here's another question: What's that orange thing at the bottom of the front of the pistol? It's inline with the wannabe-laser, but it looks like orange stock-barrel-material plastic. Plus, it looks rounded. It could be a dart holder, but what's the point in that, what with it having a magazine?
As far as how long that distance is, it's you guys' best guess.
Maybe this was kind of obvious, but...
I first measured the length (on the picture) that the slide looks like it can move. On my monitor, that turned out to be 17mm.
Since we know that the magazine pictured is the same as the LS mags, I then measured the width of the magazine in the picture: 14.5mm
From that alone, we can see that the length of the plunger draw and that of the LS mag are fairly close. To be more exact, however, we can use the relationship:
Length of slide movement (pic)/length of mag (pic) = length of slide movement (real life)/length of mag (real life)
Unfortunately, I don't know of any LS mags within 45 minutes of me (besides those in stores, of course). So, I can't give you the answer.
However, if someone would kindly measure the length of their LS mag (in inches or millimeters, doesn't matter) then multiply by 17 and divide by 14.5, we'll know the length of the plunger chamber.
Of course, that tells us nothing about the radius of the plunger chamber, but at least it's something.
Edit: Furthermore, to find total length, its the mag length times 122 and divided by 14.5.
Finally, the length of just the pistol (as far as I can tell) is the mag length times 44.5 and divided by 14.5.
jwasko et al. - In the event that the picture OMC has reflects the actual unit, it is obviously not to scale, and your use of the actual LS clip to establish scale doesn't much matter since your initial numbers were flawed. The clip, as shown, is in fact 19.4 mm, not 14.5, and the "slide" is 23.99 mm, not 17. Not that it much matters, as OMC said, it is pure speculation.
Although why would we multiply by 17 and then divide by 14.5? Why not just multiply by 1.1724? Only kidding, doesn't matter.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "to scale." I mean, it's a picture, right? So, even though it's not actual size, all of the lengths should be some fraction of the real lengths. Unless I'm completely missing something, here...
As to our differing measurements, it's probably a difference in monitor size/resolution/ some-other-computer-thing-I-know-nothing-about. "Proof:" If you divide 23.99 by 19.4, you get 1.24, which is quite close to 1.17. I blame the difference in ratios on errors in measurement...or something. In any case, the difference overall would only be an added 0.22" in the length of the slide motion. And that's only good, right?
So, satisfied, Mr. Perfection? (just kidding)
And sorry, OMC, for bringing this up. I just thought that it would give us some perspective on the size of the thing. I didn't expect 3 people to post near-simultaneously with the same info.
...$25 w/o shipping...
Now that's interesting, even if neither "mode" is actually useful. Do you remember anything about this, OMC?
-Other features include a flip-up sight for aiming precision and a dual-mode light beam with red-dot accuracy that's perfect for night missions!
Also, note that (for those in the U.S., anyway) shipping is actually free. Sweet. Thanks for the info, CAPS. Hope it's real.
-I can only find Sch. 80 PVC (in particular, threaded "nipples") in one, out-of-the-way Lowes that's quite far from me.
-I've never seen a check valve in stores, or for that matter a decent sprinkler section; after much searching, I finally found out where to find the solenoid valves from a guy who deals plumbing parts to Lowes.
-I've never found a single compression spring in a Home Depot, and I've asked repeatedly.
Anyone have any tips for finding any of the above in a Home Depot or Lowes (there aren't any ACEs around me) that I don't only get to once every couple of months?
Thanks in advance.
Well, it took a lot longer than I wanted it to, but it turned out pretty well.
Again, this is how I think (though I could be wrong) that the Winchester 94 works, and how you could potentially make your shot gun work.
Problems with this system:
1. Several moving parts make it more complex and thus harder to make and more likely to fail than some alternatives (like that ramp/track that Ronster posted)
3. Also, you kind of need cartridges that are taped and/or have a rounded head. I think the FAR had those, by the way.
Although, I'm not sure that none of the other ideas hear need a similar cartridge.
So, instead of a ramp thing, you may be better off using straight, vertical lifter. And no, I am not making another diagram of that (at least, not tonight). Just replace the angling lever with a block that moves up and down (and still locks and releases the same way as in the above diagram) in your mind. The use of a block would also (I think) solve the problem of having to stop the other shells in the mag.
I'm about 90% certain that the Winchester 94AE does not use gears and, and it's motion is independent of the action of the bolt and the lever except for one crucial moment.
This crucial moment is when the bolt releases the carrier from a catch, which allows the carrier to spring upwards.
Also, to emphasize: there are no gears involved in the motion of the carrier.
So, in conclusion:
Most Shotguns = gears
Your .22 = gears
Winchester (probably) = no gears
Your nerf shotgun = no gears, like Winchester (probably)
And now I go to make another MS paint diagram. I'll post it in 15-20 min. Then, I'm off the internet to study physics (hopefully).
Some lever-action firearms have a tube magazine and utilize a lifter/carrier; pump-action shot guns aren't the only ones. Now, I've personally handled and worked the action of a Winchester 94AE, and it has some interesting features and gave me some ideas.
First of all, here's a page with some pictures showing what the rifle looks like. Unfortunately, there aren't any closeups of the lifter or anything.
Now, to get to the point: as the lever is pulled down and forward, the bolt is pushed back. And, at a certain point, the carrier just pops up.
Note what I said in that last sentence. Rather than the carrier rising up during all, most, or even a part of the motion of the bolt, the motion happens all at once. Observing this, I hypothesized that either A.) there was liberal use of gear ratios involved, or B.) there was a spring involved.
I looked at an exploded view of the rifle, and couldn't make a whole lot out of it. However, I did notice that there was a part labeled "carrier spring" (or something like that, anyway).
So, that got me thinking: instead of having the bolt and/or pump directly move the carrier, why not simply have the pump at one point release the carrier to spring upward. On the way forward, the bolt can force the carrier back down and a catch would keep it there until the bolt is opened fully once more.
Edit: It suddenly occurs to me that this idea is fairly similar to NerfFreak's latest, but with the addition of a catch for the carrier. Also, the carrier pivots from horizontal to an angle (thus creating a ramp) rather than moving vertically like in NerfFreak's idea.
P.S. If necessary, I'll post some MS Paint diagrams later.
The loading port...forgot about that...
I'm not sure what "diagonally" means, but, I suppose it could work.
Or you could find some other way of springing it up Some sort of band could work, but is liable to break (which would be bad in a war). By the way, the spring in the Winchester that I saw in the exploded view was basically a torsion spring (in function, especially), but really was just a V-shaped, springy piece of metal.
Now, I don't want to make you change your whole design, but:
On most (if not all) lever-action, tube-magazine firearms (including shotguns), the loading port is on the side rather than the bottom. This may solve the problem of the loading port-carrier conflict, but then again it could bring a up a host of new problems (I can't think of any, but I'm sure someone will find one sooner or later).
The other problem is that the tab on the bolt will have to travel about 4" with the bolt carrier.
I'm not sure what you mean...What's the bolt carrier, exactly? But otherwise...is a couple of inches (give or take) worth it in order to (potentially) complicate things greatly? You'll have to make decisions like this if you want to get the thing done and keep it fairly reliable.
Note: .410 is the smallest common size of shotgun shell.
Ah, yes, I see, that bolt carrier.
Also, that triangular thing that I put in there was mostly just a quick solution; your idea sounds good. In fact, maybe there's a way to get that steel rod to fold up on the backward stroke of the bolt then come down going forward. The main problem would be getting it to push the carrier down rather than just folding back up, if you know what I'm saying.
I'm still not completely sure about which way is "diagonal," but it's fine. You can tell better than me how the spacing will work out. And (in this case, anyway) as long as you know what you mean, that's good enough.
If you'll excuse me, I have to go retype two very long emails because my email account signed out before I could send them.
Thanks, but it's not really mine...it's some-guy-who-works (or worked)-at-Remington's. You are welcome, however, for bringing the design to light.
Props for your design, jwasko.
Well, I've made a bit of a discovery. Surprise of surprises...not all real-life shot guns utilize gears in the operation of the carrier (if, indeed, any do). Case in point: The ever-popular Remington 870.
Here's a diagram of how the action works, with a focus on what causes the carrier to move:
Here's a diagram detailing what I think causes the carrier to act the way it does. Hint: it's the placement of an extension spring, which in this picture is represented by an orange line.
Note that the carrier is free to be pushed up at any time; it is not locked down or other wise forced into the flat position by the bolt. The bolt just nudges it enouugh so that a spring can then pull it the rest of the way down. Of course, you can still push the carrier up to load: you just need to stretch the spring a little.
A third and final diagram details what keeps the shells from coming out at certain times, and only lets out one (and only one) at other times.
I'm particularly proud of how that last one turned out. I'm getting pretty good at this, if I say so myself.
Oh, and by the way, the "shell catches" in that last pic aren't really squared off like I have them drawn. They're rounded on the rear side so that you can put shells in even when they're closed, but shells won't slip out until the catch is open.
PS: The colors on these pics got a little messed up when I converted them to GIF images. Apparently my old PC was made before PNG was invented.
As far as loading, there are other ways besides loading from the back end of the magazine. If I remember, Boltsniper (on his homemade bolt-action paintball marker) put the loading slot towards the muzzle end of the magazine, and had a method for pushing the follower forward enough to be able to load.
There are also a few other ways that tube-magazine-fed rifle's magazines are loaded, but I don't have time to fully explain them right now.
But, I just want to make sure that you got what I said: I'm pretty sure that, outside of the gear-driven method used in real shotguns, I don't think that any of the ideas in this thread would work as far as being able to load from the bottom of the shotgun...especially when the bolt is closed.
Yeah, you're right about the folding...keep it simple, Jwasko, keep it simple...
As to CPVC to brass, I don't foresee any problem; it should be similar to going from 17/32" brass to 9/16" brass, with the change in material not having any detrimental effect. Like you said, it's only a transfer from a rougher to a smoother material. I don't know that it will actually speed up, though. Well, actually the dart is accelerating the whole time the air (and, by extension, the plunger) is pushing it.
One word of caution, however: I left some stefans in (un-bored out) CPVC for some time. Now, they fit perfectly in that CPVC but are loose in 9/16" brass, instead of perfect in 9/16" brass like they had been. Of course, that was for quite some time, but still...
Finally, I just realized a bit of a problem. Okay, it's actually a major one if you want to load from the bottom while the bolt is closed. In the Winchester-type design that I posted and even (I think) other previous ideas, the carrier will be down and in the way while the bolt is closed.
Now, unfortunately, I can't really remember how a pump-action shotgun works as far as when you can load. Isn't the little door over the loading "gate" also the shell carrier? I think it can move up and down when ever the bolt is closed, thus allowing access to the magazine tube. With the Winchester design and (I think) even those carrier-on-a-ramp type designs (see Ronster's post, page 18), you can't do that.
Of course, you could (maybe, I'm not sure) still load when the bolt is open.
But, if I'm correct that this is a problem, I may have a solution. But it's going to take too long to draw and explain to do it tonight. Maybe I'll do it tomorrow morning, depending on when I get up (hooray for cancelled classes!).
Now, I'm going to try to force myself to log off the Haven and sleep, or do homework.
Anyway, now that you've done this, a proper seal can be placed on the head of the plunger shaft and/or the back of the turret, using craft foam or some such material.