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#360073 Proof of concept blaster that I need help with.

Posted by jwasko on 23 May 2017 - 07:13 PM in Modifications

4. Go to a hardware store with the stock spring and see if you can find something stronger that you can replace it with.

 
 

4: most of the springs at my local hardware stores are not that long or are only good for reverse plungered blasters. And also because the prime on this thing with the stock spring is extremely heavy.
ALSO, this blaster was bought from goodwill for $6

 
FYI This is a good replacement spring: https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/B000BQOUIQ
Or you can get it at Home Depot  http://www.homedepot...16084/202045472
 
Questions:
1. When you removed the air restrictors did you perhaps cause a leak between the plunger tube and the front plate (where the air restrictor was)?
2. How far is it shooting? How far do you want it to shoot? I mean, when Make Test Battle singled theirs they only got 160ft/sec max so I wouldn't expect to get yours to fire even 70feet flat especially with the stock spring.
3 What darts are you using?
 
To troubleshoot, you may want to take off the RSCB entirely. just put a single shot barrel on it and see how it shoots.



#360015 High Cap Magazine Collective Brain-Spew

Posted by jwasko on 18 May 2017 - 08:11 PM in Homemades

I've tested it on a short-barrel RSCB hooked up to a BBB, no dice on firing that way though. A sufficiently high-powered homemade or Y might be able to feed off it (it seems to seat in the RSCB's barrel), but I don't have one of those both working and lying around. Beyond that, the last 1% toward completion will be attaching it to a battery and building a flywheel bench rig. Once I'm ready I'll post a new writeup in homemades, maybe also darts & barrels.

 I think BBBs are a little iffy on RSCBs anyway. A BBBB or maybe even a MK8 would be better.
 

So, Hoping that worked. I can't actually see the pics due to work filters. Here's some pics of my failed prototype. The entire spool rotates inside the cookie tin so only the darts segueing between the mag and cam are moving independently of the spool. With a little more guidance between the stock mag and the cam, and a lot more rethinking for spring placement and materials (like having the ribbon feeding out through slots much lower in the mag and having a longer follower - instead of wrapping up and over the top of the mag, I think it could be viable.


I would have thought the springload on two tapes would smash darts, but maybe not?

It seems like a great idea, you just need a way to maintain the spacing between the tapes. I would almost suggest permanently attaching the tapes together at regular intervals...except of course that would prevent the tapes from retracting into their normal housings.

 

That AK drum mag that Meaker posted pictures of has a spiral ammo guide in it: 

 

Which, I just realized after reading back through the thread, is pretty much what Snakerbot was describing as his plan.




#359936 High Cap Magazine Collective Brain-Spew

Posted by jwasko on 15 May 2017 - 06:58 PM in Homemades

You have seen the "HIRricane", haven't you Meaker?

 



He originally used those PC fans (there's a full partslist in that video's description). 

 

Later, I think people stated using ducted fans (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4n3QFbFYS64 for example.) They 3d printed the ducts I guess.

He did some select fire stuff with solenoids https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLUJDlMlSn4

Point is he had a backpack that fed through flexible hose too. I never thought darts would feed so well.




#359878 2s LiPo for Honey Badger motors?

Posted by jwasko on 12 May 2017 - 08:22 PM in Modifications

Try this lipo.

Similar thing, but 10 more Amps and an XT-60 connector:
https://hobbyking.co...?___store=en_us

Looks like around $14.40 shipped to California.



#359811 Is This A Home.M Or A Mod?

Posted by jwasko on 10 May 2017 - 03:13 PM in Modifications

Anyone ever hear of patience? I'm going to be paying the winner out of my own/my family's pocket and doing this in my "spare" time, after all.

 

It doesn't matter though; homemades and mods can both enter the contest and are just separate categories.

What he said.

 

You want to submit a blaster? Submit a blaster. We'll figure out what category it goes into before judging, I promise.




#359739 A list of air blasters best - least (MY OPINOIN)

Posted by jwasko on 07 May 2017 - 05:01 PM in General Nerf

About the only piece of useful information in this thread is that Panthers have two different size air tanks.

But there is no "best blaster" because everyone's needs are different. Nor is it a complete list of air blasters which might have been slightly useful "just to show the list incase poeple didn't know about them"

Plus you took other peoples' pictures and used them in this thread without giving them credit (aside from the one with the SGNerf watermark, I guess)

In conclusion: There's no need for a list like this, give others credit, and also please at least try to spell correctly.

 

PS: Both Chrome and Firefox put red lines under words that are spelled wrong...just "incase" you didn't know about them.




#359450 THIS one simple design will have you in TEARS...

Posted by jwasko on 25 April 2017 - 01:54 PM in Homemades

Thanks for the pics, Slug. So you basically just left a channel between layers of PVC then? I always thought to possibly do that, but wasn't sure how it would work out (especially with polycarb; solvent welding helps, I'm sure).

 

That ram sure is sexy, too. I guess you could actually make it with a piece of sheet plastic (for the narrow part) and then just use a cylinder on the end.

 

2. Turn on range hood to HIGH

 

Missed this post before. Just wanted to remind everyone that not all kitchen range hoods actually vent anywhere... a lot just blow back into the room (at least, mine and my parents' both do).




#359388 THIS one simple design will have you in TEARS...

Posted by jwasko on 23 April 2017 - 05:27 PM in Homemades

Looks great so far, Slug. How long did the whole blaster end up being? It looks pretty compact.

 

How are you directing the air from the plunger tube to the chamber/barrel? You showed some tubing or some such, but I haven't caught how it all hooks up.




#359356 Nerf Air Blaster Tubing Connector?

Posted by jwasko on 20 April 2017 - 07:49 PM in Modifications

Try hardware stores (not home improvement centers like Lowes/HD) like Ace or maybe True Value.

 

 

Not sure what size you actually need. This mod suggests 1/8" and provides a mcmaster part number.




#359355 Help with Flywheel Braking

Posted by jwasko on 20 April 2017 - 07:36 PM in Modifications

I can't say that I've seen any RS diagrams with flywheel braking. But, it would be no different from flywheel braking on a stryfe. You need to wire it so that the normally CLOSED terminal of the rev switch connects the flywheel motors to themselves via the common terminal. I put the added wire in red:

 

RS braking.png

 

Pretty sure that's right. As always, be sure to check with some non-rechargeable batteries (AAs or Cs or whatever) before connecting a LiPo in case there's a short.

 

To be clear: looks like MTB is using a two switch build in this video. Is that what you're doing?




#359076 THIS one simple design will have you in TEARS...

Posted by jwasko on 06 April 2017 - 09:44 PM in Homemades

Yes, that's a great design. But aside from the magazine in the grip it's fairly completely different from what we are working on here.




#359010 Caliburn: Mag-fed Pump-action Springer

Posted by jwasko on 03 April 2017 - 07:31 PM in Homemades

Since you're 3D printing anyway...Purple Catch?




#358953 THIS one simple design will have you in TEARS...

Posted by jwasko on 31 March 2017 - 09:25 PM in Homemades

You may have already seen this, Slug, but there was a design posted on reddit for a magazine that used a rubber band: https://www.reddit.c...ed_stefan_mags/

 

It is made to use with stefans in a standard size magwell, so it won't fit in a pistol grip. But it might be something to consider.




#358926 USC barrel material

Posted by jwasko on 30 March 2017 - 05:01 PM in Darts and Barrels

CPVC stands for Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride, not copper-PVC. Although it is copper sized. PVC is Polyvinyl chloride.


I know. But I believe I have seen online (even on McMaster, if I recall correctly)that they do make chlorinated PVC in standard Sch40 diameters.

That said, you're right the "C" in CPVC does just stand for chlorinated...but the stuff we use for barrels is in fact described as Copper Tube Size and that could be important if anyone orders online.
 




#358897 THIS one simple design will have you in TEARS...

Posted by jwasko on 29 March 2017 - 08:03 PM in Homemades

Here there is no such thing and the cable will be held taught by the load of the main spring all the time.


Could you leave ~0.25" or so gap between the unprimed shuttle plate and the slide? Then attach a rubber band to the back of the shuttle plate to keep tension as in Piranha.

 

By the way does the trigger pivot at the very top, at the back of the hooks? Or does it pivot further down?

 

Anyway, looks really sleek. Great job, as usual.




#358891 USC barrel material

Posted by jwasko on 29 March 2017 - 06:35 PM in Darts and Barrels

How would I do that?

Take a dart to the hardware store and look for something that it fits well in. CPVC (copper-size PVC) is one dea, but it may be too tight. 0.5inch (nominal) diameter Schedule 80 PVC may be too loose, but you can try it.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that PVC inner diameter is not very consistent; if the dart is too tight in one piece of pipe, it may fit better in another piece.

 

You can also check out aquarium supply stores (usually not aquarium sections of other stores) for PETG.

 

Lastly, there's telescoping brass tubing (either 17/32" or 9/16" is what you want) usually sold in hobby stores.

 

Also, you may want to look into the recommendations set forth here: http://nerfhaven.com...ction-cup-slug/




#358848 Lipo for Rapidstrike with 180 motors

Posted by jwasko on 27 March 2017 - 07:37 PM in Modifications

jw, no need for that kind of overkill on blade 180s. They're 22A at stall, so a tri-blade will need a battery that can do 50A burst for the whole blaster. That'd be accomplished with a 25C (burst) 2200mah 2s lipo. You can get a 1000mAh 65C 2s Graphene easily on hobbyking for not much money (around $12). It's a tiny battery and more than capable of powering the tri-blade burst current with its continuous current rating.

No need for a battery with 154A burst capability.


Triblade = 22A x 3 motors = 66Amps, right? 25C burst/2200mAh seems to be cutting it close.

Yes 154A is overkill especially for Triblade at 2S but I was mainly suggesting LiPos that could handle a 3S hellcat/wolverine build.



#358817 Lipo for Rapidstrike with 180 motors

Posted by jwasko on 26 March 2017 - 03:49 PM in Modifications

If I'm doing the math right based on the motor database, your 2 Hellcats plus a Wolverine would be 114 Amps at total stall right?

 

Couple batteries in between the two that you posted:

https://hobbyking.co...-lipo-pack.html70C burst x 2.2A capacity = 154 Amps available at burst

https://hobbyking.co...-lipo-pack.html90C burst x 2.2A capacity = 198 Amps available at burst

 

Continuous ratings for those would be 77Amps and 99Amps respectively.

 

I would definitely never buy that 20C (looks like 30C burst in the picture?) LiPo except maybe for a stryfe build with 2 Rhinos...it only gives you like 60Amps burst.

 

Based on the numbers I think you might be okay with the 45C~90C one, especially since you're only using one Wolverine. I think people really do recommend Graphene sometimes though.

 

 

3240s/blades can run on 3S but you may need a diode if wiring live center...I can't recall. Again, I'd get one of the batteries I linked at minimum even if using a 3240.




#358735 THIS one simple design will have you in TEARS...

Posted by jwasko on 23 March 2017 - 10:02 PM in Homemades

This is ridiculously awesome. It's very much like something I was once planning but never had the chance to build. Great job bringing it to life, it did nearly bring me to tears of joy as per the thread title. Yours looks at least 9000 times sexier than anything I could have ever built anyways...and it even has a slidelock!

 

Question: Did you wind your own spring for the magazine?

 

Well shoot, that's pretty clever. I was going to suggest looking through Boltsniper's old builds - his NTS specifically since it's a clip-fed slide-action pistol, but they seem to have lost all their pictures (Slug, is there anything we can do about that?).

https://web.archive....des/armory2.htm(Too much sexiness for one thread? The mag wasn't in the handle, though, so it loses some style points I guess)




#358734 SuperMaxx 1000 Reinforcement

Posted by jwasko on 23 March 2017 - 09:25 PM in Modifications

I finally got myself an SM1k, and I'd love it if the auto-rotation didn't kill itself.

 

Looking around I've seen many posts alluding to the fragility of the SM1k auto-rotation mechanism, but I haven't found any pictures or descriptions of how it breaks. Can anyone provide info so that I can attempt to reinforce accordingly?

 

I'll include a picture to refresh everyone's memory:

SM1k rotation mech.png

 

I've labelled the three components A, B, and C for easy reference. Original picture by Blue.

 

I'm guessing that the likely failures are:

1. Either of the two arms of component "A" snap (shouldn't be hard to reinforce or even replace the whole thing).

2. Component B breaks somehow (either breaking off the tip that interfaces with the cylinder or breaking where it attaches to part "C").

3. "C" seems pretty sturdy, but again the all-plastic, pin-in-hole connection to part "B" could be an issue for either component.

 

Any prior experience with SM1ks that you can share is appreciated.




#358711 Crossbow Tube Help?

Posted by jwasko on 22 March 2017 - 08:21 PM in Modifications

Not sure if you were looking for confirmation of that part, but I just found this: http://nerfhaven.com...-new-internals/

 

He used 9562K44 and a couple of fender washers to make a new plunger head, and he was using a 1 1/4 od 1 1/8 id polycarbonate plunger tube.




#358708 Roughcut gear removal?

Posted by jwasko on 22 March 2017 - 07:45 PM in Modifications

I'm fairly sure it could be done. In particular, I was thinking to integrate/mount it upside down under another blaster. You'd have to make a new pump grip (maybe it could slide along the tactical rail?) and then attach it to the upper "sled" that pulls back the plunger rods. If I remember correctly the upper sled is also what hits the slamfire, so if you're okay with permanent slamfire you wouldn't necessarily have to relocate the trigger in this configuration (use thisor DIY it).

 

Or, yeah, you could probably directly link the stock pump grip to the upper sled.

 

Anyway, I encourage you to try it and post the results!




#358667 Crossbow Tube Help?

Posted by jwasko on 20 March 2017 - 10:10 PM in Modifications

Will glues like Devcon® secure a tube of polycarb that's running through 3 1/4"-thick sheets of Delrin®? Or, will I need to cut the hole smaller and press-fit it?


Pretty sure you've asked this question before, and the answer is still: Nothing glues Delrin to anything else (not very well, anyway). Use pins and/or screws, or else don't use Delrin.

And I think I've cut polycarbonate tubing with a hacksaw before, but it's been a while so I could be wrong...it would have been a smaller diameter, so I may have used a pipe cutter (like http://www.plumbersc...FUpMDQodW-sDSQ)



#358639 I am trying to find the right stefan

Posted by jwasko on 19 March 2017 - 07:41 PM in Darts and Barrels

For safety, you would probably be best off cutting down stock (or 3rd party) darts.
 
However, rubber-headed darts can have a lot of trouble loading via hopper. Check some of the recent threads in this very Darts and Barrels forum such as this one: http://nerfhaven.com...per-able-darts/
 
Doge keeps recommending thesebut I don't have any personal experience with them.
 
Or if you think they will be allowed, then you can use "slug darts" aka felt+washer stefans. They hopper quite well



#358590 high volume vs high pressure bike pumps

Posted by jwasko on 16 March 2017 - 10:03 PM in Homemades

Is that a 3-way or a 4-way valve that you are using there? Are you directing the vented air from the 3 (or 4?) way valve to the barrel?




#358551 high volume vs high pressure bike pumps

Posted by jwasko on 13 March 2017 - 07:04 PM in Homemades

Hey there, welcome!

 

You may want to check out Ice Nine's QEV blaster, detailed hereand here.

 

He used a Schwinn floor pump; he might show up and provide a model or a ling to where you can buy one.

 

He also was lucky to get someone to make a 3D-printed shell, but you might be able to get by with some large diameter hose clamps.

 

Care to share a full picture of your blaster so far?

 

Edit: Pictureof someone who made a "shell" out of sheet plastic




#358385 Semi auto mag fed (air powered) revisited

Posted by jwasko on 04 March 2017 - 10:06 PM in Modifications

The Hailfire has a longer throw on it's pusher with a much smoother trigger pull than the stryfe. It uses a rack and pinion gear setup.

I get that mags are cool, but if you're running slugs, aren't hoppers just as effective and much easier to build?

 

Yes, if you're willing to steal the internals the hailfire is definitely the way to go (racks seem expensive to buy outright...even lego parts). I figure stryfe-style would be easier to replicate even just out of some sheet plastic, as opposed to trying to buy racks and pinions..

 

A hopper is way easier, but I'm not a fan of them anyway. I usually use RSCBs, but a box mag has a higher capacity before becoming unwieldy. My personal dream is a top loading fixed magazine (in the style of the Magnus and Han solo blaster). It could be even easier to top off than a hopper/rscb.

 

Bonus is you could use rubbery dart heads without all the trouble they cause with hoppers.

 

And, yeah. That too.




#358320 Modifications Directory

Posted by jwasko on 01 March 2017 - 09:56 PM in Modifications

Does anyone happen to have the images from the Diatron thread saved? I need to take the locks out of one I just got, but I'm having a lot of trouble with it. I tried the internet wayback machine but no luck.

 

Looks like the Image Archive grabbed everything from that writeup:

IMG Archive.png

 

Go to the writeup thread and click the indicated button to access all of the images.

 

Note that this feature is available on all threads; however, there were quite a few writeups whose images were lost before the forum was able to archive them.




#358318 Modifications Directory

Posted by jwasko on 01 March 2017 - 09:08 PM in Modifications

anyone have a good one for the hyperfire? i watched dracs but it doesn't say where to actually solder the wires to the switches. i also watched another one on YT but it seemed half a$$'d to me..any help would be greatly appreciated.

I added a Hyperfire link above, It has some rewire info in it.

 

However, be aware of some difficulties discussed here: http://britnerf.myfr..._about3069.html




#358317 Caliburn: Mag-fed Pump-action Springer

Posted by jwasko on 01 March 2017 - 08:52 PM in Homemades

Now that's sexy.

 

What kind of spring is used for the catch itself?




#358315 Semi auto mag fed (air powered) revisited

Posted by jwasko on 01 March 2017 - 08:20 PM in Modifications

Well Meaker, Prometheus is full auto (but I suppose it could be programmed otherwise?). I appreciate that this is semi-auto.

 

I'm actually working on a mag-fed semi-auto myself but it's using 2-3 off-the-shelf valves (one could be replaced with a big salvo or panther tank, though). I like that shmee's design looks able to trigger a QEV-style tank and control the pneumatic cylinder all from one valve assembly.

 

 

Although I'm starting to wonder: do we really need a pneumatic cylinder to open and close the breech? What if we simply link the breech to the trigger via linkages as in a stryfe or via rack and pinion as in a hailfire? Maybe that's more double action than semi-auto, but then everyone calls Stryfes "semi-auto."

 

Edit: For instance the stryfe's pusher extends roughly 30mm or 1.18". That should be just enough length to chamber a 1" long stefan.




#358157 ERTL PAS questions

Posted by jwasko on 23 February 2017 - 09:21 AM in Modifications

 

Replacing or reinforcing the trigger is a must

 

If you can't do it yourself




#357813 Scout with Hornet tank internals

Posted by jwasko on 04 February 2017 - 12:57 AM in Modifications

Sorry I'm late. Wanted to say I really love this mod, especially the fact that the pump is completely within the original shell. It would be great if the barrel were, too, but that's obviously not possible in such a small blaster.

 

I added it to the directory. Thanks for posting it!




#357586 Tips For Making A 17/32 Bass Barrel For Use With A Wye Hopper.

Posted by jwasko on 16 January 2017 - 11:15 AM in Darts and Barrels

Try alternative tapes as suggested.

 

Also are you wrapping the whole thing in electrical tape? Or just the front and back of the barrel? You really just need front and back. Also you really only need the back to be a really tight fit. The front just needs to be close enough to prevent wiggling.

 

If nothing works try this:

 

Cut the PVC barrel about an inch shorter than the brass/than it is now.

Wrap tape around just the back of the brass.

Insert the untaped (front) end of the brass into the barrel then push the barrel all the way in until some brass sticks out the front and the back (taped) end is seated all the way.

Wrap tape around the front of the brass until it is snug in a stub of PVC, but don't press the PVC on all the way yet!

Put a coupler on the front of the barrel (this will go over the bit of brass, but it will not fit tightly on the tape), then put a stub of PVC in the front of the coupler to fit tightly around the taped brass.

 

It will probably look best if that sub of PVC doesn't actually stick out of the coupler much, but it's up to you.




#357456 SNAP Question

Posted by jwasko on 05 January 2017 - 11:46 AM in Homemades

On the Mk8-esque SNAP I'm building, the plunger head has a bunch of friction, enough to hold a [[k26]] back at full compression. Am I doing things correctly?

 

 

No, that's definitely not right.

 

I'm assuming you are using a rubber washer for the seal.

 

It is apparently too big or you tightened the screw on the plunger head too much. That'll squash the rubber washer and make it too big.

 

Or perhaps your washer is folding backwards over the plunger head. If anything it should cup forwards (towards the barrel).

 

You say you want a stock. Try the Snapbow MkV: http://nerfhaven.com...w-mk-v-revised/ for inspiration




#357455 Crossbow Questions

Posted by jwasko on 05 January 2017 - 11:39 AM in Modifications

Even some homemade replacement internals have trouble running a hopper, so no I don't think you'll get to that point.

 

You could just use a [k26] and leave out the original spring, but a [k26] will break the plunger rod and/or catch and/or shell around the catch unless you reinforce it.

 

Here is a very basic mod: http://nerfhaven.com/mods/rawray_xbow/I encourage you to search for and look up others.

 

As to the plunger head I'm not sure. Try lubing it. Try putting a few wraps of electrical tape on the end of the plunger rod to widen it and then stretching the seal over it. Last and probably worst option is putting teflon thread seal tape (which is not adhesive) around the seal. None of these will work as well as a complete replacement (plunger head and probably plunger rod), though.




#357436 SNAP Question

Posted by jwasko on 04 January 2017 - 04:24 PM in Homemades

It sort of depends on the design that you are using, I suppose. Is there a particular SNAP writeup you are following?

 

In general I'm going to say between 0.25 and 0.5inches (closer to 0.25). If you made it very precise you could maybe get it down to 1/8".

 

You mean this sharp shot, right?

 

You really only need to have something that can transfer the action of pulling your finger back into pulling a nail down. The sharp shot does this pretty simply with only two moving parts, but I'm not sure that its trigger and catch will be strong enough to yank the nail downward. A bulked up, similar design could work. Check out the Purple Catch, for instance(click the image archive button after following that link).

 

If I were you, I'd make one with a basic clothespin trigger first. Then you can modify it to have a fancier handle and/or catch. And note that there are loads of people who have used a plain old clothespin but used a handle from a nerf blaster or airsoft/paintball gun.




#356905 Ammo Counter: The Ultimate Simple & Cheap Guide

Posted by jwasko on 27 November 2016 - 08:29 PM in Modifications

You know more than I do, but you linked to a 5V logic pro trinket and a 3V3 logic regular trinket. Is it cool to use either/or, or did you mean to link the 5V version?




#356887 Beginners Flywheel Mod

Posted by jwasko on 26 November 2016 - 03:45 PM in General Nerf

RM2s aren't great, and they tend to burn out (so don't hold down the rev button longer than you have to!) But if you don't think you can properly take care of a rechargeable battery pack they can give you a little better performance while still using normal AA batteries.

 

LiFe batteries are a little more stable than LiPos, but they aren't as compact and the voltage is a bit lower. For instance https://hobbyking.co...fepo4-pack.htmlor https://hobbyking.co...fepo4-pack.html

 

Charger for them: https://hobbyking.co...discharger.html

 

If you do rewire always try it with normal AA/alkaline batteries before connecting a battery pack!




#356850 My take on the tacmod - work in progress

Posted by jwasko on 24 November 2016 - 12:25 AM in Modifications

Nice work so far.

 

As to the grip, you do mean the "pistol-grip"/where the trigger is? It really won't be taking all that much force on a flywheeler. I have a spring-powered Pump Action Shotgun (PAS) with a grip that was attached only by adhesive and/or solvent weld, and it has held up very well in spite of the stresses involved in priming back the plunger.

 

Just be sure to use a proper adhesive (methylmethacrylate-based I hear is among the best for these plastics) and I think you'll be fine.