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The massive tube also bewilders me.
By the way, what would manual mean if spring is another choice? Like throwing the dart?
First off, you can get pvc attachments or fittings if you will that are already threaded, so you would just cement that on the end and screw on the vavle. Second, why would you need an air compressor? It works the same as a PVC valve.
Metal valves haven't been used because you would have to thread the pvc, and that wouldn't work.
Those valves would be to big to be practical in a nerf war. And if you did get it small enough to work, you would have to fill it with an air compresser, which plain and simple, wouldn't work.
EDIT: These pictures are a little better: http://www.modelmart.....>Rifle&no=638
I used 3/4 inch sheath to cover my barrel and detail the side of the gun. For the barrel, the sheath was not big enough to cover the whole circumfrence. For the part thats supposed to be a RIS system, I had to cut the tubing in half and quarter slivers. I love the look and feel of this gun now, it really does give it a more realistic look. I hope you guys think about trying this out yourselves.
-As far as the plunger goes, I am not sure about that one.
As for some advice, relocating the pump to run along the bottom of the stock would probably be more comfortable when its resting against your shoulder. Everything else looks great. Nice job once again.
Check this out
The next person to post this shit is going to die. Someone posted a "whats the difference between the two pictures" screamer a few months back and my heart rate went up and didn't come back down till five minutes later. Coincidentally, I once again had my headphone volume up a considerable amount when I viewed this one. Asshats.
-And Reaper, the gun cocks when you pull both halves of the gun in opposite directions. I had always wondered how you would cock the BBB until I finally saw one in person at Armageddon 2004.
First, take that nice piece of plastic out of the box and take in her beauty. Next, remove the ten screws at the front of the gun to access the barrel assembly. This is what the front end of the gun will look like without it's shell:
If you are not an idiot like I am, you won't hesitate saving the two orange nubby poles with their springs on the side of the gun. This is what actually keeps the gun cocked, something I did not know and almost threw away vital pieces.
Next, remove the barrel at the front, simply by pulling it apart from the rest of the plunger. Inside, you find these goodies:
That pesky air restrictor lies inside the barrel of the gun to greatly decrease range. Take the pole, spring, and circular restrictor out and throw them away. **Note that I do not have the small piece of the air restrictor that was at the very tip of the barrel. Before I even opened the gun, I sawed off about an inch off the barrel, hoping that I would not need to open the gun. If you choose to open the gun and get all of the air restricting material out, you will still need to either dremel or cut off the very tip of the barrel. There are four grooves at the tip that will not allow another barrel to fit inside.
After all the air restricting material has been removed and the tip of the barrel has been cut, you now have many differet options. You can wrap tape around 9/16 brass and wedge it down the barrel, add a 1/2 inch pvc coupler to accept a plethora of different barrels, add a crayola, or other various methods. Because I did not have any strong glue to bond a pvc coupler, I took another route. I took a piece of SCH 80 and wedged a 1 1/2 inch piece of 9/16 brass partially in the SCH and the rest sticking out to adapt to the original BBB barrel. I realize how short I left the original barrel and probably should of left more, but I can't go back now.
IMPORTANT EDIT CONCERNING BARREL MATERIAL
I initially used a very unique barrel setup, with the SCH 80 and brass and all. Disregard this barrel setup. Use about 8 inches of 9/16 brass or other barrel material that fits your darts.
With all the above stated and a white paintjob done, this is what I got:
I used Krylon Fusion paint for the first time on a gun, and am very pleased with the results. Being a beginner at painting, there are some rough spots and purple showing where the gun slides back, but I still love its appearance.
Now for some ranges. To get things straight, I will show you what I consider a level shot, and an angled shot.
Now, back to the ranges (All the following was tested with 12 inches of 9/16 brass). With Dylan's leveled shotŪ, I am able to achieve an average of 90.83'. With Dylan's angled shotŪ, I am able to get an average of 92.40. All shots were tested with a 1 1/2 inch tight-fitting stefan dart. All measurements were based off of the heel-to-toe method. My shoes are 11.5 inches long. I measure by taking the number of steps multiplied by 11.5, then dividing my answer by twelve. For future reference, this is how I measure all of my ranges.
In conclusion, I love the BBB. I have always dreamed of getting one, and I highly recommend purchasing it. If there are any questions, feel free to post.
EDIT: Meh, grammar.
By the way, I'm guessing you used fusion spraypaint? I'm going to do some painting with white fusion spraypaint this friday and was wondering if I could get good results, as you did.
Good job on all three guns.
Once again, great work Bolt, your skills scare me sometimes.
Also, while I was scanning that site, I saw a replica M4 for ten dollars. I bought the same one at a dollar store for, you guessed it, a dollar.
Machine Model: eMac
CPU Type: PowerPC G4 (1.1)
Number Of CPUs: 1
CPU Speed: 1.25 GHz
L2 Cache (per CPU): 512 KB
Memory: 256 MB
Bus Speed: 167 MHz
Boot ROM Version: 4.8.2f1
Hopefully I'm going to get a Powerbook for graduation.