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#295035 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by Y-Brik on 23 February 2011 - 10:53 PM in Modifications

Credit to this tip goes to Hipponater- thanks man!
I got my thinwall from Do It Best. They ship it free to your local store and it's $4 for 10'!

#302207 Where to buy Camo bag with Streamlines

Posted by Y-Brik on 24 July 2011 - 11:48 PM in General Nerf

For a college kid, save a bit more and get the new 100 pack of Streamlines from TRU- it's $25 for 100 I-won't-hide-from-you darts. Best price per dart on stock ammo.

#287872 We Report Range, Why Not Velocity?

Posted by Y-Brik on 03 November 2010 - 08:09 PM in Off Topic

If we're looking for a more accurate way to determine a blaster's power, just shoot straight up. Time how long it takes from launch to landing, and you can work out the physics in that way. Or just do what the rest of us do and measure out your range with a tape measure.

#287878 We Report Range, Why Not Velocity?

Posted by Y-Brik on 03 November 2010 - 09:36 PM in Off Topic

Here's the thing you're missing- range is a FUNCTION of velocity. Acceleration due to gravity (Ag) is constant regardless, so what our blasters are doing is propelling these darts to move away from us as fast as possible so that it can cover a lot of horizontal distance in the largely consistent amount of time it takes for the dart to drop straight down. The slower the dart, the less range it covers before gravity pulls it to the ground, etc.

#313397 VANS Are Not Slugs

Posted by Y-Brik on 23 March 2012 - 11:47 AM in Darts and Barrels

I'm guessing not, but the felt is to allow the darts to feed in a hopper.

#339060 TR-27 GRYPHON - CR-18 Rapidstrike Mod

Posted by Y-Brik on 20 May 2014 - 12:56 PM in Modifications

I'd love to find a nice 3 position rotary switch what I could mount in such a way you can operate it with your right thumb, like the M16.

Like this one?
Or this one?

#339035 TR-27 GRYPHON - CR-18 Rapidstrike Mod

Posted by Y-Brik on 19 May 2014 - 11:37 AM in Modifications

This is fantastic, you're making my RS jealous for an upgrade!
A few observations/suggestions:
-Have you considered making the code interrupt-driven? It may be neater code, and save battery. Basically, instead of polling all the I/0 all the time, the arduino will "notice something has changed" and run the appropriate code.

-For user IO, I really like that OLED display, maybe integrated into the cheek rest if there isn't enough room where you have your ammo counter. I may be hitting the garage sale myself when the paycheck hits!

-If you go with the OLED display, consider a tactile 5-way switch for your input, accessible by the right index finger. Imagine tweaking firing control and other settings from there- and it's more discrete than the rocker switch. You may want to use your voltage divider trick there too, or give in and grab a shift register.

EDIT: More info on interrupts

#292475 Total X-stream Air Sonic Bazooka

Posted by Y-Brik on 09 January 2011 - 03:09 PM in General Nerf

The Sonic Bazooka is a rip-off of the 4b, therefore the majority of common mods done to the Big Blast.
Self-sufficiency is key here; a google search, a NH search (seriously, it works!), or the mod directory are all preferable to posting- use the resources you have!

#300980 Titan Help

Posted by Y-Brik on 04 July 2011 - 12:45 AM in Modifications

Cutting it's the best way- a careful use of razor blade will give you the best finish. Meanwhile, we have an IRC which is great for asking those "I know it's stupid but I gotta know" questions without irritating the admin team.

#300990 Titan Help

Posted by Y-Brik on 04 July 2011 - 12:20 PM in Modifications

Stuff is hard when you don't have a Dremall I use a hack saw.

Did I say anything about a Dremel? No- and hacksaws are the wrong tool for the job.

#300211 The SNAP/Revolution

Posted by Y-Brik on 20 June 2011 - 10:19 AM in Homemades

All i can say is this is amazing i have been watching nerfhaven for a while and i love this i am going to make it only thing wrong with the write-up is for someone who has never built a snap (such as my self)there is not materials list and you never say what size pvc the plunger TUBE is since im going to make this could you pm me or just reply to this with a materials list i found your other snap write ups on nerfhaven but i dont know if the sizes are still the same. Thanks alot and your awesome!

I caught most of your punctuation; it seems to have escaped your post. As with any SNAP the plunger tube is 1.25" PVC. I would suggest you build a basic SNAP before taking this one on.

#307345 The recon blast bazooka

Posted by Y-Brik on 14 November 2011 - 04:45 PM in Modifications

Dear god, never shoot those rounds at people- is that a nail??

#295819 The Ohio Revolution

Posted by Y-Brik on 11 March 2011 - 05:45 PM in Nerf Wars

And that iota went away. I'm out, have fun guys.

#295096 The Ohio Revolution

Posted by Y-Brik on 26 February 2011 - 01:42 PM in Nerf Wars

I just noticed the Rev falls on the first day of Spring Break, so there's an iota of hope I can go to this thing, assuming I have a place to crash 'over there', possibly with a handful more of the Chicago crew.
Again, this is a possibility, not a guarantee.

#288639 The Eccentric, Airtech And Supermaxx Series Overhaul

Posted by Y-Brik on 20 November 2010 - 12:57 AM in Modifications

Very original idea to turn the tank around and use a trigger like that. Did you widen the dump valve before?

I doubt it seeing as he then sends the air thru a 1/8"-ish hole into the RSCB.
@Boot- very nice, I like seeing the creativity (if not as much cosmetics- I can live with that) coming across the pond! Keep it up!

#298055 The Bullpump

Posted by Y-Brik on 13 May 2011 - 11:00 PM in Homemades

Very nice. After messing around with some pump action designs, I think the vertical foregrip is something worth keeping. Have you considered a mashup of the 2 styles? A vertical foregrip with a bolt that connects to the 3/4" endcap?

#287209 Spooky Illinois Foam Fest -- Canceled

Posted by Y-Brik on 20 October 2010 - 12:14 AM in Nerf Wars

Consider me a maybe. Dude, seriously, ZOMBIES!

#295445 Speedloader Turret Tutorial

Posted by Y-Brik on 06 March 2011 - 10:12 AM in Modifications

Very...very...very thorough. Nice build though, props for giving tips on getting the barrels straight and consistent. FYI, it's much faster to ream out CPVC with a knife or scissors than to use a Dremel on it. Nice video writeup.

#300369 Sonic Bazooka Knockoff + Buzz Bee Hunter

Posted by Y-Brik on 22 June 2011 - 04:23 PM in Modifications

I know I'm gonna regret this....
Talio, is the point of NH to only promote the Hereticorps, McNumbers, and Slugs of the community? I always thought it was a point to share knowledge and ideas- in this case the mod is defintely not beautiful, but far better than many I've seen in my time here. Carving the Hunter into an underslung integration is an interesting idea and novel to the site. For what it's worth, that idea alone is helpful, at least to me.

#286327 Snapbow Mk. V, Revised

Posted by Y-Brik on 01 October 2010 - 06:49 AM in Homemades

Great to see updated Snap writeups!
I have a 1.5" PVC Snap and have one notable updayte- Instead of potentially unreliable E-putty (Mine always crapped out on me), I took a 1.5" endcap and went t town on it with a dremel, creating a PVC catch ramp that fits right where an E-putty ramp would go. It's another option for builders, though a bit more labor intensive.

#286706 Snapbow Mk. V, Revised

Posted by Y-Brik on 08 October 2010 - 10:44 PM in Homemades

By "easily pass the 100' mark" do you mean like by ten feet or by like fifty feet?

Usually by 10; I don't think I've heard of a 150' SNAP yet

#301936 SNAP Carbine mk2

Posted by Y-Brik on 20 July 2011 - 11:19 PM in Homemades

In English, improvement does not mean perfection. However I dont know if that remains the same in whatever language you speak.

I don't need to order a 5 dollar part off mcmaster to get a perfect seal when a $1.10 worth of materials gets me the same seal. And if it starts to fail, I can open up the blaster, replace the tape and the o-ring, and re-lube it and have it ready for the next round. I'm not making a fucking military grade weapon.

As I recall, a modern washer sandwich plunger head a la Superlative, Preemptive, etc. cost around $2.50, are locally sourced, easier to make, more reliable, and provide a 100% air seal if done right. Why are we running back to reinvent the wheel when it comes to Snaps?

That said, well done on the writeup. I think the carbine is an excellent super-easy-to-make homemade for the newbies and a great shits&giggles blaster for the rest of us. But that is all it is.

#307329 Simple Side-by-Side Jolts

Posted by Y-Brik on 13 November 2011 - 11:33 PM in Modifications

I used a nail with the head cut off slipped across the priming handles.
Something linking the triggers might fix that issue and be pretty cool.

Try disabling one of the triggers- keep it constantly pulled back (zip-tie) or clear off the catch notch (the 'nail'). If the priming bars are linked, one catch may just be enough.

#324287 Simple S.S. AS-1 mod

Posted by Y-Brik on 09 December 2012 - 02:24 PM in Modifications

Nice writeup, but a lot of this has been covered here before. Look for CPVC barrel replacement mods.
Also, why did you remove the shell if all your mods were done to the (exposed) barrel?

#293863 Rpmbnb! Updated With More Goodies!

Posted by Y-Brik on 03 February 2011 - 10:57 PM in Homemades

Excellent work, I may just have to ask you for those Inventor files (The handle, trigger, catch, and rear endcap in particular)

#298557 Rolling breech

Posted by Y-Brik on 25 May 2011 - 12:04 AM in Darts and Barrels

Increasing the diameter of the 2 pieces of brass making the seal should increase the relative surface area avalible
Posted Image
If we glue the 17/32" barrel into a stub of 9/16" into which the dart can drop, and sheath that in 5/8", in theory we can have it seal, use the minimum sized slot and still seal...somewhat.

Are we looking to use Nstrike clips? if this thing can gravity-feed, why not use it as a hopper clip a la Quick16 (Drop darts in and move on)

#314857 Rifled stefans

Posted by Y-Brik on 27 April 2012 - 12:11 PM in General Nerf

Cool story bro
Seriously, this will destroy your dart/barrel seal and short of building a special jig (we're playing "I believe in rifling darts" now), there's no way you can keep the spirals consistent from dart to dart.

#318133 Retaliator/Recon Pump Grip (write up included)

Posted by Y-Brik on 07 July 2012 - 12:33 PM in Modifications

If you have a spare Recon shell (and who doesn't with the PTs breaking all the time), this method works out well. Use coathanger wire to link the slides, and a tac rail bracket to affix the pump to the barrel
Posted Image
More pix here

#319067 Retaliator/Recon Pump Grip (write up included)

Posted by Y-Brik on 23 July 2012 - 11:44 PM in Modifications

That is awesome. I like how compact it still is, and how it has the light and red dot. It makes the alpha troop look kind of useless at that point.

Close, but there's also something to be said for original design. Jams did occur, I ended up selling this and getting a Raider when I realized that's what I was basically building (The AT wasn't out yet, and quite frankly I hate the ergonomics of it)

Perfect? No. Useful and fun? Definitely.

#287700 Rainbowpump

Posted by Y-Brik on 30 October 2010 - 05:22 PM in Homemades

@ Y-brik: That may work, I don't know. Seems a bit over-complicated. Try it and see if it works.

Here's the thing- I don't have a RainBow at the moment and wont be building one soon. I can tinker with it on my +bow, but it wont be as useful. Oh, and how is it overcomplicated? It's a nylon cord and extension spring anchored within the tee that makes the stock.

#287652 Rainbowpump

Posted by Y-Brik on 29 October 2010 - 04:14 PM in Homemades

@Talio- judging that the PT is 1.25" with a [k26] and skirt seal, +bow or, more accurately, SNAP ranges are the likely result. This design is just sexier, higher RoF, and more durable than a traditional CPT SNAP.

My idea: I've come to the conclusion that plunger head padding sucks. It jams, introduces deadspace, and the material always gets smashed into uselessness. So if slowing the PH down from the front fails, how about from the back? The Rainbowpump has a great platform as the plunger rod is encased in PVC and has a VERY sturdy stock, so on to my sketch. (This was done in my Engineering class, hence the formality, and in hand, hence the shitty drawing/handwriting. Now, let's see if I can post pictures...)
Posted Image

The goal is to stop the PH a fraction of an inch before the bushing. The nylon cord allows full plunger velocity along the draw, then the (beefy) extension spring+cord slows and stops the PH. At the moment, the biggest issue I see is the stress put on the nylon plunger rod, I don't know if it can hold. Still, I trust Ryan and co. have enough time, materials, and skill to try it out- good luck!
This is an initial idea, keep the questions and ideas coming!

#287798 Rainbowpump

Posted by Y-Brik on 01 November 2010 - 09:56 PM in Homemades

I did this to my PAC, which admittedly was already dry-fireable. However, the string hitting the slot does appear to cause wear on the string, which doesn't happen anymore. Also, it's even quieter than it was before--The catch falling into place sounds thunderously loud compared to actually firing.
Note the glare is not another string.


1) Make a hole in one side of your stock / frame / shell,
2) Put a string through the hole from 1)
3) Put a hole in the plunger rod
4) Put put the string through the hole from 3)
5) Put a hole on the other side of your stock / frame / shell
6) Put the string through the hole from 5)
7) Tie knots on both sides of the string, outside of holes 1) and 5)
8) Tape over/cover up the loose string if you like.

The impact / shock of the plunger losing it's momentum is now taken symmetrically by the tensile strength of the string and the plunger rod.

This should work on most pump action blasters, and probably a few others. It's nice to use the tensile rather than compressive strength of the material to take the load, because tensile strength is vastly greater for most materials.

Thanks for giving it a shot Kane! Yeah, my little trials with my +bow ruled out the extension spring in about 30 seconds, I do agree with all the rather colorfully worded opinions on that front (in my defense, I used it to limit stress on the nylon rod- I'm anything but experienced with them. Given Kane seems to be doing just fine with an unbuffered string, I guess the whole thing was moot anyway.). My attempt with the bolt was to make the entire mech internal to maintain the aesthetics of the RBP, but function seems to outweigh form here.

So yeah, Kane rocks.

#287640 Rainbowpump

Posted by Y-Brik on 29 October 2010 - 10:14 AM in Homemades

I may have a solution to the dry fire issue (Hint- extension springs and nylon cord). I' m sketching it out now and will try to get it up by tomorrow. Ryan, that blaster is mad sexy, I may have to get one (Discount if this idea works?)!

#295894 Raider Spring

Posted by Y-Brik on 12 March 2011 - 04:56 PM in Modifications

Not sure which one's from a Raider, but I have plenty of ReClone springs (The're all the same anyway). Pm me.

#291551 R Series Blasters - Overview!

Posted by Y-Brik on 26 December 2010 - 10:49 AM in Homemades

Yea. The guy had no idea what i was talking about. i had to explain what cpvc was and he still didnt know what i was talking about. Then i looked up and down the plumbing and electrical aisles and couldn't find it.

1. find smarter employee. Ask if there's a plumbing specialist in-store
2. CPVC is used mostly in potable (drinking) water as a substitute to copper tubing- as such it's near the copper tubing (In my experience anyway).

While Im here, what springs are you using? I'd recommend [k26] (Plusbow spring) which you can order off McMaster or buy from Split's sales thread.

#288650 R Series Blasters - Overview!

Posted by Y-Brik on 20 November 2010 - 11:36 AM in Homemades

I hate you for your beautifully-colored PVC.
Great design SG, I like how you've effectively removed the catch from the plunger tube. Now to figure out how to adapt this to American PVC specs...

#290739 R Series Blasters - Overview!

Posted by Y-Brik on 12 December 2010 - 05:42 PM in Homemades

A k45 theoretically doesn't even fit over 1/2 cpvc let alone pvc.

It fits very loosely over CPVC. I don't care about theories, I own it, and it works great on 1/2 cpvc. It's OD is 1" with .092" wire diameter.

Isn't your plunger rod 1/2 PVC and not 1/2 CPVC

It is, that's why he still needs a spring. Think people, think!

#291527 R Series Blasters - Overview!

Posted by Y-Brik on 25 December 2010 - 11:44 PM in Homemades

Really? It's pretty common in hardware stores- did you ask an employee to help when you were looking?

#307074 Quick public question: Vortex or N-Strike?

Posted by Y-Brik on 07 November 2011 - 08:58 AM in General Nerf

I'll probably be flamed for this, but here goes:

Which series of gun would you shoot, Vortex or N-Strike?

I personally like N-Strike better, not because of the distance (which usually sucks) but because of the modularity of all of them (barrels can be swapped, scopes/lights can be added) and their guns are more modern (Recon looks like an M4A1, Element looks like a USP, etc.). How about you guys; Vortex or N-Strike?

Hell yeah, I love the tacticoolness of adding blades to my Recon and making them look like M4s! Hooray for milsim!
/end sarcasm

Just a tip, this community abhors the "This toy looks like this thing-cops-shoot-at" attitude to Nerf.
Almost as much as they hate "which is better" threads.

People here are likely to prefer NStrike because they use conventional ammo, are more well-known, and have more modding options.

#323377 Question about lubricant

Posted by Y-Brik on 07 November 2012 - 11:48 PM in Modifications

Been using this stuff for years, it's fantastic. I got mine at Miller Industrial (Similar to, but not an ACE). I've used it on plungers, triggers, even a sticky door hinge.