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There have been 145 items by Y-Brik (Search limited from 18-January 93)
A few observations/suggestions:
-Have you considered making the code interrupt-driven? It may be neater code, and save battery. Basically, instead of polling all the I/0 all the time, the arduino will "notice something has changed" and run the appropriate code.
-For user IO, I really like that OLED display, maybe integrated into the cheek rest if there isn't enough room where you have your ammo counter. I may be hitting the garage sale myself when the paycheck hits!
-If you go with the OLED display, consider a tactile 5-way switch for your input, accessible by the right index finger. Imagine tweaking firing control and other settings from there- and it's more discrete than the rocker switch. You may want to use your voltage divider trick there too, or give in and grab a shift register.
EDIT: More info on interrupts
Self-sufficiency is key here; a google search, a NH search (seriously, it works!), or the mod directory are all preferable to posting- use the resources you have!
All i can say is this is amazing i have been watching nerfhaven for a while and i love this i am going to make it only thing wrong with the write-up is for someone who has never built a snap (such as my self)there is not materials list and you never say what size pvc the plunger TUBE is since im going to make this could you pm me or just reply to this with a materials list i found your other snap write ups on nerfhaven but i dont know if the sizes are still the same. Thanks alot and your awesome!
I caught most of your punctuation; it seems to have escaped your post. As with any SNAP the plunger tube is 1.25" PVC. I would suggest you build a basic SNAP before taking this one on.
Again, this is a possibility, not a guarantee.
I doubt it seeing as he then sends the air thru a 1/8"-ish hole into the RSCB.
Very original idea to turn the tank around and use a trigger like that. Did you widen the dump valve before?
@Boot- very nice, I like seeing the creativity (if not as much cosmetics- I can live with that) coming across the pond! Keep it up!
Talio, is the point of NH to only promote the Hereticorps, McNumbers, and Slugs of the community? I always thought it was a point to share knowledge and ideas- in this case the mod is defintely not beautiful, but far better than many I've seen in my time here. Carving the Hunter into an underslung integration is an interesting idea and novel to the site. For what it's worth, that idea alone is helpful, at least to me.
I have a 1.5" PVC Snap and have one notable updayte- Instead of potentially unreliable E-putty (Mine always crapped out on me), I took a 1.5" endcap and went t town on it with a dremel, creating a PVC catch ramp that fits right where an E-putty ramp would go. It's another option for builders, though a bit more labor intensive.
As I recall, a modern washer sandwich plunger head a la Superlative, Preemptive, etc. cost around $2.50, are locally sourced, easier to make, more reliable, and provide a 100% air seal if done right. Why are we running back to reinvent the wheel when it comes to Snaps?
In English, improvement does not mean perfection. However I dont know if that remains the same in whatever language you speak.
I don't need to order a 5 dollar part off mcmaster to get a perfect seal when a $1.10 worth of materials gets me the same seal. And if it starts to fail, I can open up the blaster, replace the tape and the o-ring, and re-lube it and have it ready for the next round. I'm not making a fucking military grade weapon.
That said, well done on the writeup. I think the carbine is an excellent super-easy-to-make homemade for the newbies and a great shits&giggles blaster for the rest of us. But that is all it is.
Try disabling one of the triggers- keep it constantly pulled back (zip-tie) or clear off the catch notch (the 'nail'). If the priming bars are linked, one catch may just be enough.
I used a nail with the head cut off slipped across the priming handles.
Something linking the triggers might fix that issue and be pretty cool.
If we glue the 17/32" barrel into a stub of 9/16" into which the dart can drop, and sheath that in 5/8", in theory we can have it seal, use the minimum sized slot and still seal...somewhat.
Are we looking to use Nstrike clips? if this thing can gravity-feed, why not use it as a hopper clip a la Quick16 (Drop darts in and move on)
Close, but there's also something to be said for original design. Jams did occur, I ended up selling this and getting a Raider when I realized that's what I was basically building (The AT wasn't out yet, and quite frankly I hate the ergonomics of it)
That is awesome. I like how compact it still is, and how it has the light and red dot. It makes the alpha troop look kind of useless at that point.
Perfect? No. Useful and fun? Definitely.
@ Y-brik: That may work, I don't know. Seems a bit over-complicated. Try it and see if it works.
Here's the thing- I don't have a RainBow at the moment and wont be building one soon. I can tinker with it on my +bow, but it wont be as useful. Oh, and how is it overcomplicated? It's a nylon cord and extension spring anchored within the tee that makes the stock.
My idea: I've come to the conclusion that plunger head padding sucks. It jams, introduces deadspace, and the material always gets smashed into uselessness. So if slowing the PH down from the front fails, how about from the back? The Rainbowpump has a great platform as the plunger rod is encased in PVC and has a VERY sturdy stock, so on to my sketch. (This was done in my Engineering class, hence the formality, and in hand, hence the shitty drawing/handwriting. Now, let's see if I can post pictures...)
The goal is to stop the PH a fraction of an inch before the bushing. The nylon cord allows full plunger velocity along the draw, then the (beefy) extension spring+cord slows and stops the PH. At the moment, the biggest issue I see is the stress put on the nylon plunger rod, I don't know if it can hold. Still, I trust Ryan and co. have enough time, materials, and skill to try it out- good luck!
This is an initial idea, keep the questions and ideas coming!
I did this to my PAC, which admittedly was already dry-fireable. However, the string hitting the slot does appear to cause wear on the string, which doesn't happen anymore. Also, it's even quieter than it was before--The catch falling into place sounds thunderously loud compared to actually firing.
Note the glare is not another string.
1) Make a hole in one side of your stock / frame / shell,
2) Put a string through the hole from 1)
3) Put a hole in the plunger rod
4) Put put the string through the hole from 3)
5) Put a hole on the other side of your stock / frame / shell
6) Put the string through the hole from 5)
7) Tie knots on both sides of the string, outside of holes 1) and 5)
8) Tape over/cover up the loose string if you like.
The impact / shock of the plunger losing it's momentum is now taken symmetrically by the tensile strength of the string and the plunger rod.
This should work on most pump action blasters, and probably a few others. It's nice to use the tensile rather than compressive strength of the material to take the load, because tensile strength is vastly greater for most materials.
Thanks for giving it a shot Kane! Yeah, my little trials with my +bow ruled out the extension spring in about 30 seconds, I do agree with all the rather colorfully worded opinions on that front (in my defense, I used it to limit stress on the nylon rod- I'm anything but experienced with them. Given Kane seems to be doing just fine with an unbuffered string, I guess the whole thing was moot anyway.). My attempt with the bolt was to make the entire mech internal to maintain the aesthetics of the RBP, but function seems to outweigh form here.
So yeah, Kane rocks.
1. find smarter employee. Ask if there's a plumbing specialist in-store
Yea. The guy had no idea what i was talking about. i had to explain what cpvc was and he still didnt know what i was talking about. Then i looked up and down the plumbing and electrical aisles and couldn't find it.
2. CPVC is used mostly in potable (drinking) water as a substitute to copper tubing- as such it's near the copper tubing (In my experience anyway).
While Im here, what springs are you using? I'd recommend [k26] (Plusbow spring) which you can order off McMaster or buy from Split's sales thread.
It is, that's why he still needs a spring. Think people, think!It fits very loosely over CPVC. I don't care about theories, I own it, and it works great on 1/2 cpvc. It's OD is 1" with .092" wire diameter.
A k45 theoretically doesn't even fit over 1/2 cpvc let alone pvc.
Isn't your plunger rod 1/2 PVC and not 1/2 CPVC
Hell yeah, I love the tacticoolness of adding blades to my Recon and making them look like M4s! Hooray for milsim!
I'll probably be flamed for this, but here goes:
Which series of gun would you shoot, Vortex or N-Strike?
I personally like N-Strike better, not because of the distance (which usually sucks) but because of the modularity of all of them (barrels can be swapped, scopes/lights can be added) and their guns are more modern (Recon looks like an M4A1, Element looks like a USP, etc.). How about you guys; Vortex or N-Strike?
Just a tip, this community abhors the "This toy looks like this thing-cops-shoot-at" attitude to Nerf.
Almost as much as they hate "which is better" threads.
People here are likely to prefer NStrike because they use conventional ammo, are more well-known, and have more modding options.