- → Y-Brik's Content
There have been 145 items by Y-Brik (Search limited from 27-February 93)
I did this to my PAC, which admittedly was already dry-fireable. However, the string hitting the slot does appear to cause wear on the string, which doesn't happen anymore. Also, it's even quieter than it was before--The catch falling into place sounds thunderously loud compared to actually firing.
Note the glare is not another string.
1) Make a hole in one side of your stock / frame / shell,
2) Put a string through the hole from 1)
3) Put a hole in the plunger rod
4) Put put the string through the hole from 3)
5) Put a hole on the other side of your stock / frame / shell
6) Put the string through the hole from 5)
7) Tie knots on both sides of the string, outside of holes 1) and 5)
8) Tape over/cover up the loose string if you like.
The impact / shock of the plunger losing it's momentum is now taken symmetrically by the tensile strength of the string and the plunger rod.
This should work on most pump action blasters, and probably a few others. It's nice to use the tensile rather than compressive strength of the material to take the load, because tensile strength is vastly greater for most materials.
Thanks for giving it a shot Kane! Yeah, my little trials with my +bow ruled out the extension spring in about 30 seconds, I do agree with all the rather colorfully worded opinions on that front (in my defense, I used it to limit stress on the nylon rod- I'm anything but experienced with them. Given Kane seems to be doing just fine with an unbuffered string, I guess the whole thing was moot anyway.). My attempt with the bolt was to make the entire mech internal to maintain the aesthetics of the RBP, but function seems to outweigh form here.
So yeah, Kane rocks.
@ Y-brik: That may work, I don't know. Seems a bit over-complicated. Try it and see if it works.
Here's the thing- I don't have a RainBow at the moment and wont be building one soon. I can tinker with it on my +bow, but it wont be as useful. Oh, and how is it overcomplicated? It's a nylon cord and extension spring anchored within the tee that makes the stock.
My idea: I've come to the conclusion that plunger head padding sucks. It jams, introduces deadspace, and the material always gets smashed into uselessness. So if slowing the PH down from the front fails, how about from the back? The Rainbowpump has a great platform as the plunger rod is encased in PVC and has a VERY sturdy stock, so on to my sketch. (This was done in my Engineering class, hence the formality, and in hand, hence the shitty drawing/handwriting. Now, let's see if I can post pictures...)
The goal is to stop the PH a fraction of an inch before the bushing. The nylon cord allows full plunger velocity along the draw, then the (beefy) extension spring+cord slows and stops the PH. At the moment, the biggest issue I see is the stress put on the nylon plunger rod, I don't know if it can hold. Still, I trust Ryan and co. have enough time, materials, and skill to try it out- good luck!
This is an initial idea, keep the questions and ideas coming!
+Having 2 Stampedes on the field (And do well too! I was glad to be on their team).
+Ring-around-the-treesie (Ended with one of them Stampedes)
+Eliminator with Stampede shield- the greatest in the sub-optimal category
+ Meeting up with my buddies from Cataclysm
+Here's the deal- Wendys was great!
+Used the hell outta my +Bow
+Chronographs are not only neat- they're 133.7!!
+Got 2 legit wyes and clear PVC for less than I expected to pay
+Everyone being cool (Not just because of the weather) about the relocation
+BIGGEST WAR in the region! Woot!
-Gun breakage. Thank God I brought my electric screwdriver
-Cold and windy! Grab the mobstacles!!
-Lost 80% of my darts
-In-game dart failure. Liquid nails does NOT work on stefans, you hear me Sluggy?
-Had to leave early
I have a 1.5" PVC Snap and have one notable updayte- Instead of potentially unreliable E-putty (Mine always crapped out on me), I took a 1.5" endcap and went t town on it with a dremel, creating a PVC catch ramp that fits right where an E-putty ramp would go. It's another option for builders, though a bit more labor intensive.
Home depot has CPVC. Ask someone or look harder. In my store it's stacked vertically next to the copper pipe. You need CPVC if you want to fire stefans; I don't think anyone has done a PVC singled LS. Oh, and judging by your post quality, the LS may not be the gun for you to mod. Have you even opened the thing? Is it your first mod? If the answers are what I think they are, forget it. Go get a 4B or a NF and learn before you try such a complex mod.
Maybe they don't like wood.
I'm a little perplexed over the apparent lack of interest in this, especially from the more experienced SNAP builders, but whatever.
Naah, that's an east coast thing. I do like this setup, just waiting to see it come to fruition. Oh and Fome, all your shit is so BA it intimidates the rest of us. We're used to plastic, not so much woodcrafting.
I have heard that some people use cut down [k26] springs in their raiders. Since the alpha trooper is just a reshelled raider that would probly work.
No. [k26] doesn't fit in any of the Recons (Such a shame...). RFSG springs, however, do.
EDIT: Go figure, the one day that week I work is smack in the middle of the war. So it looks like I'm out for the 14th. 21st anyone?
My adapted SNAP. Features 1.5" PVC plunger tube, new (To my knowledge) handle mount, and easy field stripping thanks to the way the stock is screwed onto the endcap. The gun field strips with 2 screws- there's only 4 total (not counting the stock).
The handle slots onto ridges cut into the PVC (This is one of the reasons it uses 1.5" PVC; 1.25" PVC is just too small. The slots are measured out to accept a LSFG handle, but mine broke (Damn you China!) and the PVC one serves me well.
8 round RSCB attachment with tacticool flashlight E-taped on. Stupid Windows photo gallery made the stock look crooked; it's not.
Ranges are ROUGHLY measured at 100'+