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SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA's Content
There have been 1000 items by SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA (Search limited from 31-August 93)
BigFoot: Does the paint make the slide difficult to pull back (because the portion of the gun that it slides on is thicker), or is there not really any noticeable difference? Also, what grit sandpaper (or what Dremel bit) did you use to get such a smooth look?
Is there any problem with the dart's transition from CPVC to brass? If not, I think my redesign of my shotgun concept might work. Since brass shells are expensive and time-consuming to make, I was going to use CPVC ones.
CPVC in the shell lines up with the brass in the barrel almost perfectly.
Never use Frost King FBR. The batch consistency is terrible, and their measurements are inaccurate most of the time.
The barrel I use CPVC
Heres the picture of the brand of FBR by Frost King. Except it's a 30' bag and it's the dark grey kind.
Nobody asked you to be a jackass and give a lecture on what to call our homemades, Jergling. I am aware of what a shotgun is, having fired several before. However, the design and operation are identical to that of a shotgun, and that's what I'm going to call it. Unless you have a contribution to make that will help these guns get built, please do not respond in my thread again to make room for other developments.
Even though I'm a noob here, I'm a gamer, and this is really irritating to me too, you people need to understand that shotguns fire SHOT, which is a bunch of projectiles at once, please try to understand that.
Rest assured, this project is still in the works, despite over a year in development hell. Since PVC is proving to be difficult to work around a CPVC-shell system, I am exploring new options for making the body of the gun. This includes resin-casting and using vacuum-forming for molds. I want this gun to have a nice, finished feel to it, rather than produce a model that looks and performs like crap.
Also, I will be working on that updated directory. This week is midterms (fun fun), so I'll probably have it around the weekend.
What website did you get the ID and OD measures from?
I was just going to make a hollow spot opposite the extractor where I could lock in the spring and base of the ejector, and cover that with another layer of PVC.
And I need to know how Boltsniper put the spring in his because there isn't much space to do it they way I did in the FAR.
Glue it. The repeated force from the plunger impact might worsen the cracks or holes caused by nails and screws, and you don't want the bolt breaking apart when you fire the gun.
Also, does any one have an idea for attaching the rubber washer on the back of the bolt? I can't decide on nail, screw, or glue. Other suggestions would be nice.
Feasible? I'm close enough to knowing how to build this gun that the carrier is the only hitch in the plan. Once I figure that out, I can start getting materials/beginning construction
Ronster had a design in mind for a carrier, he just never posted it yet. Perhaps if we were to obtain it, we would be able to have more feasible designs...
How big is this thing going to be? It looks huge.
I don't know about CH, but my shotty (I am beginning the final design phase now) is only intended to be slightly larger than a Longshot (without barrel extension and with extended stock).
Also, glad to see that the topic is still alive.
Also, if anyone knows what I should look for in a spring: I went to my local hardware store (Not Home Depot), and they have every kind and size of spring I could ever use, I think. I'm not sure if they sell ones that would work well for nerf; how tough should they be? For example, should I be able to compress them nearly fully with my hands or is it enough to just be able to budge them?
That depends. A plunger spring should be hand-compressable, otherwise you'll never be able to cock the gun. A mag spring should be even weaker. A spiral-notebook coil like Ronster suggested works fine for just darts, might work okay for PVC shells, and probably won't work so well for brass like I am going to use.
I'll definitely try to get some bigger pics up sometime in the next 2-3 days.
Now, about that depression tab issue. I thought about exactly the same problem you did, that the depression tab would come down too soon and the carrier would go down before the bolt could load the next shell. But then, I remembered that I'm using a rotating bolt. This means that if I shorten the tab just a little bit and place it at a point on the bolt where it will be timed to release only after the shell has been loaded, then the problem should be solved. Then again, this is all just speculation, since I haven't made a model or gotten into all of the mechanics just yet. If I post a way bigger detail view up here, then I might be able to talk to you guys about the really fine details of it all. I only wish that boltsniper could post something here, since he's actually built a rotating bolt before and he could give me some insight as to what I might need to do here.
1: If the carrier and carrier dog are connected like that, then how does the entire system move when the carrier is raised? I know the carrier dog moves, but it seems like it would have to move towards the carrier to raise it, based on your picture.
2: Where am I going to find a set of gears that small and how am I going to keep them in place should the gun be dropped?
3: How would I solve the problem of a jam (I.e. a locked gear) without dismantling the entire receiver?
Even though I don't know the answers to these questions, I will probably switch over to the carrier dog system instead of my depression tab. That way I have a proven system and don't have to worry about springs or very strenuous pressures on the sides of the bolt and carrier. I'm not discounting Flaming Hilt's arguments, but I might be able to pull this one off more easily than the depression tab. I guess this means I'll need to draw more pics, but still, thank God for Ronster.
I looked over your post again and realized that I mixed up the word "travel" with "gravitate" because there is a typo there. However, there is still a problem with your design. The size of your dart and the size of the breech can be perfectly identical, but if the edge of another dart even gets caught between the rim of the breech and the loading system, you are going to have some major problems with the firing because now there is a bent-up dart that prevents the breech from closing and getting a good seal. That either means that you can't fire, or the pressure that is lost while firing is too little to propel the dart out of the barrel.
Also, I don't know whether you are going to make a true breech-loader or a magazine-fed shotgun, because they are definitely not the same things. PM me a picture and I might be able to understand and help you.
First, the term "shotgun" in my title only reffers to how the weapon loads. If I wanted to fire multiple shots, I would need a sabot or something, and that's really not a design I can get into right now. To load the shells, I was going to use a carrier in front of the magazine. For those of you who have shotguns, this idea will probably be familiar. If not, then visit this website (http://science.howst...om/shotgun5.htm). Towards the bottom of the page, there will be a box titled "pump-action shotguns." If you play all the way through that, and study both the tab on loading and the tab on firing and ejecting, then my concept will be broken down for you.
Next, my ammunition problems. Since I am planning to use shells for this weapon, I am trying to borrow the design that boltsniper used for his SCAR-N. Those shells and stefan darts should give me some good ammo. To keep the shell and dart from sliding out of the barrel, I will use a rotating-bolt lockup unit like the ones found in shotguns, assault rifles, and the SCAR-N. this will provide the basis for me to both hold and extract the shell. The weapon can be cycled by connecting an operating rod to the pump grip and the other end to the bolt. If you look at the bolt concept of the SCAR-N, you can see the nail sticking through the side. That should be what I connect the rod to.
I want to make a practical, compact, yet sturdy design so my gun doesn't fall apart if I slam-fire or am rough with the pump. The silencer is for quiet shots if the weapon has a decent-enough range for "sn1per" operations. I would be grateful if I even got 20' on the first attempt, seeing as this is my first homemade. I promise you guys out there that as soon as I get my scanner working, I'll put up one of my rough sketches on here for you to all see what I'm talking about. If you have any ideas or alterations after visiting the HowStuffWorks page, then I'm all for your suggestions. I'll need them to make sure my idea holds water before I go off and build a failure.
SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA
Nice drawing. But how big will the gun really be?
Will multiple darts fit in each shell?
The gun will, ideally, be no bigger than Boltsniper's SCAR-N. If I incorporate the plunger tube into the stock, then I could theoretically shorten the gun by around 20cm, and also eliminate some durability problems with an attached stock rather than an integrated stock. That little stub you see sticking out of the left part of the drawing was going to be an attached stock, but I scrapped the idea and forgot to erase the part from my sketch.
The gun will have shells, but I don't plan to have multiple projectiles per shot. It will be a slug-gun type weapon, like I said earlier. In order to fire off multiple shots, I would need to involve sabots or something of the like, and that would only be as a proof of concept attempt. Multiple pellets wouldn't go very far anyway, so it would almost be pointless for wars that aren't fought in buildings.
If you look on the howstuffworks page mentioned in the earliest couple posts, you will see that there is either a bump or a ledge on the carrier that stops the shell from sliding all the way back. That stop is placed carefully in a spot where only one whole shell can be on the carrier at a time. I think this could be the solution, becuase I myself was considering it for simplicity.
P.S.: For all of you out there who are either working on or want to work on a Nerf shotty, P.M. me. If there are enough of us, we might be able to walk each other through the design and construction phases.
Actually, the bolt's side keeps the carrier dog depressed while the bolt is sliding forward and back. The bolt's contact with the carrier dog is stretched out in duration so that by the time the carrier dog is released and the carrier falls, the front of the shell has already been pushed forward and the rear of the shell is supported by the front of the bolt. I haven't got the exact specs down, but if Ronster can complete a working model (no pressure, Ronster), then it will be much easier to explain. The howstuffworks page isn't too good for the animation of the unit, so you don't get the exact idea enough to see what happened in between the steps. It kind of took me a while to get that one, too.
When I say "Shotgun," I'm referring to the way the weapon loads shells into a magazine below the barrel and how the pump cycles the weapon. The design is similar to Boltsniper's SCAR-N.
One more thing, I'm a noob. Deal with it.
Edit: There is an update on this project at the bottom of page 20.
I was going to try for 100th post in my own forum, but that would merit reprocussions from Piney for double-posting. (Although this is technically the 100th reply.)
Back on topic:
I am working on a scale-dimension draft of my blueprints on a 2-D CAD program, so I will probably be done with almost all of my design work and detailing by the 17th, accounting for the time I need to take out for homework, school, and studying. I hope to see blueprints from as many other contributors to this topic as possible, so we can all build different, yet hopefully effective, models.